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Thread: Joel's 818s Build Thread

  1. #1

    Joel's 818s Build Thread

    I am excited to finally be able to do this! I have never done anything like this and I am an automobile novice. I am beginning my adventure with this 818 kit that has crossed the country to end up in my shop. I am the third owner of the kit, but the first to do anything to it. The original owner (back in November of 2013) picked up a lot of the donor parts, but I don't think he actually had a donor car, so I am finding lots of little things missing. I am trying just now getting to assemble the front suspension, but I don't have any of the OEM bolts. This will be the first of many novice questions, but can anyone offer suggestions on ways to find them?

  2. #2
    Hi & welcome to your build! Congrats on picking up a kit getting to work.

    As far as advise; you're in the right place! This forum is probably going to be your best resource.

    My $.02; go here http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals & download a user manual for a recent year WRX or Impreza (is your kit turbo or not). You are going to need something like that going forward.

    As for missing OEM hardware, especially the suspension hardware, I did a lot of web & ebay searching to find part numbers, then purchased them (either locally or online) - I had to replace most of my hardware, but I don't know if I still have the part lists (I'll check).
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  3. #3
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Hello and welcome, hopefully this thread will get you started on the OEM hardware needed:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Slop-Removal]
    In some cases, you'll find that the OEM metric hardware is fine pitch, which may not be commonly available at your local hardware store. Then again, you may be able to replace some of the metric nut/bolt combos with more readily available English equivalents. Try to go for the high strength versions.

    Also, if you don't already have a set of dial calipers, get one asap. These are indispensable for measuring diameters and lengths and can easily tell you what sort of bolt is needed. A thread gauge also helps for figuring out pitch.
    threadgauge1.jpg

  4. #4
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Use any of the online subaru parts stores to track down the part number you need then buy the part off of ebay.
    http://parts.westhoustonsubaru.com/S...-4WDWAGON.html
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017

  5. #5
    Thank you so much for the suggestions. I will get the dial calipers and a manual and start searching for parts and pieces!

  6. #6
    Senior Member fastzrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by melnjoel View Post
    I am excited to finally be able to do this! I have never done anything like this and I am an automobile novice. I am beginning my adventure with this 818 kit that has crossed the country to end up in my shop. I am the third owner of the kit, but the first to do anything to it. The original owner (back in November of 2013) picked up a lot of the donor parts, but I don't think he actually had a donor car, so I am finding lots of little things missing. I am trying just now getting to assemble the front suspension, but I don't have any of the OEM bolts. This will be the first of many novice questions, but can anyone offer suggestions on ways to find them?
    Perfect place to ask questions. There are those here who cars on the road. Others (like me) are working toward that goal.

    Another source for Subaru parts is: http://parts.subaru.com With part number in hand, browse eBay or other sources for the best price.
    ~ Mark

    818C S/N 429ES: Start Date 1 September 2016
    2001 NB Miata LS3 V8 440 rwhp
    2004 Miata MazdaSpeed Factory Turbo

  7. #7
    Okay, so the upper control arms seem like it shouldn't be that big of a deal, but I have spun my wheels on it all day! I have a kit that originated in late 2013 and it sounds like it was necessary to cut one of the threaded arm to make the length correct. Can anyone direct me to a thread that details this a little bit or share their experience in figuring this out? I think I have the passenger side meeting all of the criteria from my kit, but I can't seem to make the driver's side the correct length! I will post some photos of where I am with it if I can figure that out tomorrow. Frustrating day on something that I thought was going to be rather simple!!

  8. #8
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by melnjoel View Post
    Okay, so the upper control arms seem like it shouldn't be that big of a deal, but I have spun my wheels on it all day! I have a kit that originated in late 2013 and it sounds like it was necessary to cut one of the threaded arm to make the length correct. Can anyone direct me to a thread that details this a little bit or share their experience in figuring this out? I think I have the passenger side meeting all of the criteria from my kit, but I can't seem to make the driver's side the correct length! I will post some photos of where I am with it if I can figure that out tomorrow. Frustrating day on something that I thought was going to be rather simple!!
    Joel
    On the front left you have to shorten the stud 1" to allow for proper adjustment. see my picture.

    leftfront.jpg

    If you get stuck on something, Just go on to the next task. Then ask the question when you get back to a computer. The answer will be there in a few hours.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Joel
    On the front left you have to shorten the stud 1" to allow for proper adjustment. see my picture.

    leftfront.jpg

    If you get stuck on something, Just go on to the next task. Then ask the question when you get back to a computer. The answer will be there in a few hours.
    Bob
    Thank you! That is exactly what I needed to see and hear. I am okay with taking it a little slowly as long as I know it is not just because I am crazy!! I get the feeling I will have lots of these learning experiences along the way. It makes for good bonding time with my boys that are helping me with this project.

  10. #10
    I have the front firewall all pieced together, per the instructions, but it seems like I read one thread about some small corner pieces of aluminum that also needed to be in place before moving forward. I have been combing threads and can't seem to find it again. Any suggestions on what that piece would be?

  11. #11
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by melnjoel View Post
    I have the front firewall all pieced together, per the instructions, but it seems like I read one thread about some small corner pieces of aluminum that also needed to be in place before moving forward. I have been combing threads and can't seem to find it again. Any suggestions on what that piece would be?
    No clue what corner pieces your talking about. Just continue on.
    There is a piece the goes between master cylinder and firewall to help seal that area.

    Quote for Pirates of the Caribbean:
    the Pirates code is more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules.

    The 818 manual is like this. More of a guideline than rules.

    Since I'm working on my second 818. This is my manual:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...9&d=1494045403







    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg fw.jpg (177.2 KB, 385 views)
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 08-13-2017 at 02:03 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    No clue what corner pieces your talking about. Just continue on.
    There is a piece the goes between master cylinder and firewall to help seal that area.

    Quote for Pirates of the Caribbean:
    the Pirates code is more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules.

    The 818 manual is like this. More of a guideline than rules.

    Since I'm working on my second 818. This is my manual:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...9&d=1494045403







    Thank you so much for the info. Pirates is one of my favorite movies. As an automotive novice, the manual and these forums are my teachers! Your "manual" makes things so much simpler-I just need to figure out how to do all those things. Painstakingly slow, but making some progress everyday. Thanks again for the help!

  13. #13
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by melnjoel View Post
    I have the front firewall all pieced together, per the instructions, but it seems like I read one thread about some small corner pieces of aluminum that also needed to be in place before moving forward. I have been combing threads and can't seem to find it again. Any suggestions on what that piece would be?
    Could you be recalling a thread about the " dead pedal " pieces on the inside corners of the firewall that the coolant tubes pass behind? I seem to recall a thread discussing the pros and cons of of installing them prior to the coolant tubes.
    If it was then you can put the pieces together and Cleco it to the corner until the coolant lines are done.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by flynntuna View Post
    Could you be recalling a thread about the " dead pedal " pieces on the inside corners of the firewall that the coolant tubes pass behind? I seem to recall a thread discussing the pros and cons of of installing them prior to the coolant tubes.
    If it was then you can put the pieces together and Cleco it to the corner until the coolant lines are done.
    That was the one. If it doesn't make a big difference, I won't worry too much about it for now. I will see if I can find the discussion and decide if I need to do it. Sounds like it's not that big of a deal.

  15. #15
    I am almost done with my front suspension, but am having to wait on a few pieces to finish. I decided to try my luck with the pedal box and am running into some issues that it seems like FFR has addressed in later kits. The pedal box mounting plate for my kit is welded to the frame, but it doesn't line line up correctly with the donor pedals that I have. Can anyone tell me how they addressed this? I don't want to grind or bend something that I will regret later!!

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by melnjoel View Post
    That was the one. If it doesn't make a big difference, I won't worry too much about it for now. I will see if I can find the discussion and decide if I need to do it. Sounds like it's not that big of a deal.
    May be prudent to fit and drill dead pedals before coolant tubes installed in order to avoid a accidental puncture of the coolant tubes drilling. Good luck with the project the forum and YouTube videos are very good resources. I found reading a section ahead of time before heading out to work on that part made the work faster.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by alpine227 View Post
    May be prudent to fit and drill dead pedals before coolant tubes installed in order to avoid a accidental puncture of the coolant tubes drilling. Good luck with the project the forum and YouTube videos are very good resources. I found reading a section ahead of time before heading out to work on that part made the work faster.
    Thanks for the recommendation. I will definitely at least get it prepped before I install the coolant tubing! Any thoughts on pedal box fitment?

  18. #18
    Mine was tight. I added a bit of extra clearance in some of the holes to make it work. I ended up buying Mike's master cylinder relocation kit later in the buikd. And than the remote resivoire kit after the first time I tried checking and adding fluid with the windshield surround d attached. If your budget allows they are a pretty nice solution.

  19. #19
    How far off is your pedal box? Mine did not line up and just before I went to the blunt force encouragement tool I tried flexing it a bit and it ended up lining up...

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by mistasherm View Post
    How far off is your pedal box? Mine did not line up and just before I went to the blunt force encouragement tool I tried flexing it a bit and it ended up lining up...
    It doesn't seem too far off, but I am not familiar enough with all of this stuff to know what the tolerances for these materials is. I only set it in there and have done nothing other than eyeball it. I will get a little more aggressive and see if I can make any headway with it.

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by melnjoel View Post
    It doesn't seem too far off, but I am not familiar enough with all of this stuff to know what the tolerances for these materials is. I only set it in there and have done nothing other than eyeball it. I will get a little more aggressive and see if I can make any headway with it.
    It's been a while, but if i remember correctly I got the top holes to line up and had to flex the lower portion of the box to fit the others. This did not interfere or warp any of the pedal functions.

  22. #22
    I am going to try my hand at adding a photo. Front suspension so far. Does anyone notice anything I have done incorrectly? I would much rather be able to correct it now rather than later!IMG_2472.JPG

  23. #23
    IMG_2471.JPG
    I'm just experimenting with how to best attach photos. Again, if anyone sees something assembled incorrectly, please hive a shout out!

  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by melnjoel View Post
    I am going to try my hand at adding a photo. Front suspension so far. Does anyone notice anything I have done incorrectly? I would much rather be able to correct it now rather than later!IMG_2472.JPG
    Hey I think the grease points on the upper control arms go on top not on bottom. You have the lower control arms in the outer holes and with the aluminum lower control arms they need to go in the inside holes. For me I would have also put the nuts on the back side of the spindle bracket but that is your choice. Looks good so far.

  25. #25
    Make sure you can get your cotter pin in the upper balljoint. I had mine in rotated and had trouble getting it in correctly.
    Also looks like you have your LCA rears in right.... squiggle is down.
    Decide now if you want to add in the extra 10mm spacer between the rear LCA mount and the aluminum arm.....which gives you a little more caster later when you adjust. This was highlighted on a lot of threads.

    The key with adding photos, is to make sure they are not too big. I import them at a medium resolution then upload to the thread.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  26. #26
    I made some modifications to the front suspension to get the aluminum control arms in the right place. Thank you for the guidance! Waiting for some parts to spruce up the steering rack and have moved on to the rear suspension. Besides my inexperience, one of the hurdles I am facing in purchasing the kit third hand is third-hand parts. The parts were all ordered on ebay and were not from a single actual donor. Today, I am looking at the rear suspension. I like the look of these trailing arms and control arms, but the spacers are too big. I have seen that Wayne has something like this for sale on his site. Does anyone know what I need to do to get these to fit? New smaller spacers? Bend the tabs? IMG_2481.JPGIMG_2482.JPGIMG_2483.JPGI had to grind the spacers for the trailing arms to get them to fit. IMG_2485.JPG

  27. #27
    Per Wayne's instruction, I adjusted the spacers on the adjustable arms and everything seems to be fitting perfectly now! So nice to to be able to have something done today. I am also wondering if anyone has a suggestion for sway bar mounts? I have a donor (purchased) sway bar, but it doesn't have any of the mounts. I know I saw something that was suggested on someone's thread, but I can't find it again. Thanks for the help! Happy labor day!!

  28. #28
    I am working with a performance Subaru specialist on the engine for my build and he has suggested that I use an ej205 long block motor. I am wondering about fitment? I assume it uses the same mounting points, but how does it fit in the space? Has anyone used that motor? What are the advantages/disadvantages? I want to make sure that I invest in something that is going to work.

  29. #29
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    This motor will fit just fine, the ej205 is the block used in the 2.0L wrx. The 818 was designed around this motor. "Long block" just means assembled block (including pistons, rods, crank) with the assembled heads bolted to it. You, or your engine builder, will need to transfer all the other bits (intake manifold, turbo, headers, hoses, etc.) from your old engine to the new long block.

  30. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    This motor will fit just fine, the ej205 is the block used in the 2.0L wrx. The 818 was designed around this motor. "Long block" just means assembled block (including pistons, rods, crank) with the assembled heads bolted to it. You, or your engine builder, will need to transfer all the other bits (intake manifold, turbo, headers, hoses, etc.) from your old engine to the new long block.
    Thank you for answering my novice questions! The more answers I get, the more I realize how little I know! It's good to be learning new things and it is great to have the forum to help!

  31. #31
    Has anyone built their 818s without a donor? If so, did anyone happen happen to keep a list of all the peripherals you had to buy for the engine? I am looking at a JDM EJ205, but I know I will still need stuff - as referenced by STiPWRD. I just don't know what all I need to be looking for to get this thing running.

  32. #32
    You could definitely do it without a donor. Many of the parts you probably would want to buy new OEM or aftermarket and if you wanted to keep it on the cheap you could find them at any Subaru junkyard. For the wiring we can set you up with a fresh harness if you choose to have us build it for you.
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
    iWire Subaru Wiring Services
    Over 100 Custom 818 Wiring Harnesses Built
    http://www.iwireservices.com/factory...18-wiring-kits
    [email protected]

  33. #33
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Is there a particular advantage to the JDM version of the EJ205? Or did you mean the EJ207 by any chance? The EJ207 is the 2.0L sti engine that was available in other countries but was never released in the US. This engine does have several advantages over the EJ205 and I know there are several people that have installed the EJ207 in their 818s.

    A few people have built 818's without donors but it does tend to be more expensive in the long run to cherry pick all the needed parts and involves more research; it certainly can be done. I'm not sure which donor parts came with your project but I'd suggest buying an assembled engine if possible (whether it's USDM or JDM). That way you have all of the peripheral engine bits and don't have to hunt them down - many of these parts are interchangeable between the EJ series blocks.

  34. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Is there a particular advantage to the JDM version of the EJ205? Or did you mean the EJ207 by any chance? The EJ207 is the 2.0L sti engine that was available in other countries but was never released in the US. This engine does have several advantages over the EJ205 and I know there are several people that have installed the EJ207 in their 818s.

    A few people have built 818's without donors but it does tend to be more expensive in the long run to cherry pick all the needed parts and involves more research; it certainly can be done. I'm not sure which donor parts came with your project but I'd suggest buying an assembled engine if possible (whether it's USDM or JDM). That way you have all of the peripheral engine bits and don't have to hunt them down - many of these parts are interchangeable between the EJ series blocks.
    Thank you for the info. I am leaning that way as well. The Subaru mechanic I have been talking to recommended that I get a JDM and then find a blown USDM to swap out parts. Just seem like paying for two engines to me if I can find a decent USDM.

  35. #35
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by melnjoel View Post
    Thank you for the info. I am leaning that way as well. The Subaru mechanic I have been talking to recommended that I get a JDM and then find a blown USDM to swap out parts. Just seem like paying for two engines to me if I can find a decent USDM.
    That's one way to do it but you could also just buy an assembled JDM motor. It all depends on your build goals. I haven't done a JDM swap so can't help much there, sorry.

  36. #36
    We can assume that STIPWRD is referring to a JDM engine that the engine controls and etc have been replaced to be complaint with emissions rules and is OBD2 A stand alone JDM engine will not pass most emissions testing, but most of them will have a considerable amount of life left in them. Think of the purchase of a JDM engine as an alternative to purchasing a long block. If you purchase a blown engine and a long block, you may need to use return the blown long block to avoid a Core Charge. if you purchase the JDM, then you can use the blown engine for a rebuilding project with your sons.

    Then again, if you purchase an engine that the swap has already been done, and the seller is providing both warranty and technical support, this may be a good alternative for you.

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