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Thread: [SOLVED] Where to attach dyno hooks?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    [SOLVED] Where to attach dyno hooks?

    I am going on the dyno Monday and was wondering where to attach the dyno hooks? Better find out before I get there, eh? loll


    Up front with the (race) splitter I think it's not possible. I also think it may not be ideal on the rad frame.
    If I remove the splitter and attach to the alu LCAs, is that viable? Do I need to remove the bumper? I hope not on this one, if yes then no dyno for this year.

    Back at the rear with the diffuser on there is no frame to attach to. Are the double lower lateral links a viable option?
    If I remove the diffuser, there is some frame, like where the upper bars join at the bottom to hold the gearbox support, is that a good place? Do I need to remove the bumper and attach directly at the very far back behind the gearbox?

    Obviously removing the bumpers is the best, but if I keep them on and have no splitter and no diffuser, where are the best attach points?
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-14-2017 at 05:19 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  2. #2
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    I remove the splitter and diffuser, then you can access the frame bits to attach the straps. We crossed them to hold the car centered. The shop should be able to choose acceptable points, I'd need photos to explain the points we used
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  3. #3
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yes but in order for the shop to choose they need something to choose from. loll
    Maybe I could remove the splitter and nose (new nose insert), although I have sealed the nose in place so I prefer not.

    Which section of the front you need pix of? The very front or more around the steering rack?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  4. #4
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Last edited by Frank818; 08-10-2017 at 10:41 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  5. #5
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    Absolutely do NOT go over the lower lateral links in the rear. I have seen many a WRX with those bent from doing so.

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    Also, if you're planning on being on the dyno a lot, find a set of junk rear tires. Most rollers are fairly abrasive to prevent wheel spin and can chew through a set of soft summer tires pretty quickly.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phil1734 View Post
    Absolutely do NOT go over the lower lateral links in the rear. I have seen many a WRX with those bent from doing so.
    Good to know, that means diffuser off and some place around the exposed frame.

    Planning to go on the dyno once or possibly twice, next time would be next summer.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  8. #8
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    wallace18's Avatar
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    I always dyno in the go -cart stage. I know this is too late for you but a good idea for others to think about.

  9. #9
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    I had to wait to get on the Dyno so I installed the body but not the splitter or diffuser, didn't have any issues tying the car down. I don't think I could have rolled the car on the dyno with the splitter with out some helper ramps.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    And Mitch where did you tie it down?

    My best guess is on the alu LCAs and gearbox frame underneath, the X that is there.

    Glad to know without splitter and diffuser there is no issue, this means we will certainly find a location.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  11. #11
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Hi Frank,
    Timely question.
    It happens that I went to the Dyno today.
    Rear was easy to hook into the frame.
    However, I don't have a splitter on the front so I can't help you there, and I didn't pay attention to where he hooked it up on the front, but there are a couple point on mine where he could have easily accessed the frame.
    Good luck..... hope yours goes as good as mine.

    If I was to do it again, I would do a wiring check on my engine first to make sure I have contact throughout the wiring harness.
    Turns out I had faulty wiring to one of the injectors- hence no fuel.
    Sorted it out and finished the tune, but still an issue with my boost controller - not sure if its wiring or controller itself so I need to chase that down.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  12. #12
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    Corbin looped around the lower frame rail in front of one of the up-rights on each side in the rear. The front they went through the wheels.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    The wheels!!! I didn't think of that at all! Tnx so much Mitch, that's should be a great failsafe!

    Cuz here's my under body front after removing the splitter, even the LCAs might be hard to reach if the straps have too much of an angle and I don't think the fender supports (new nose) would be a good attach point.

    2017-08-11 09.26.34_1.jpg2017-08-11 09.26.45_1.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  14. #14
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    This is where to attach:

    2017-08-14 10.07.33_1.jpg2017-08-14 10.08.08_1.jpg

    The guy didn't like the wheels as an attach point cuz one time it screwed up some guy's alignment, so he's attaching elsewhere.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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