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Thread: Outside Trunk Wall

  1. #1
    Senior Member kobra01's Avatar
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    Outside Trunk Wall

    I think you can see my problem. Isn't the outside trunk wall supposed to be installed before the trunk floor?
    The outside wall is not completely drilled yet, the floor is sealed and riveted. I honestly don't think I can remove the trunk floor without wrecking the aluminum, Bostik adhesive sticks very well. My plan was to fabricate the upper inside trunk panels (adding to the problem) and laying insulation and carpeting in the truck anyway.
    If I don't fix it what other problems can I anticipate? Any Ideas?

    Thanks,

    Ken

    P1000856(2).jpg

  2. #2
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    If you're going to be carpeting the trunk it really won't matter much since it'll be covered up anyhow. Technically yes, the side should go down first but either way you'll want to seal it up well with a silicone or similar product. If you planned on leaving the trunk "naked" then yeah, it'll look a little goofy if you leave it.
    I'd think you could drill out a few of those rivets, then use a long knife to get in between the frame and the trunk floor. You don't have to take the whole floor out to slide those side tabs into place.

    -TJ

  3. #3
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    andddd it looks like im in the same boat. Oh well. The kit doesn't come with trunk carpeting does it?

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Yes, the sides should have been installed before the trunk floor. Not a big deal, but slight possibility the trunk sides might be up a little high once the bulb seal is installed and the body fitted. Probably not, but just something to check when you get to that point.

    No, the kit doesn't come with trunk carpeting. Only for the cockpit.
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    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kobra01 View Post
    I think you can see my problem. Isn't the outside trunk wall supposed to be installed before the trunk floor?
    The outside wall is not completely drilled yet, the floor is sealed and riveted. I honestly don't think I can remove the trunk floor without wrecking the aluminum, Bostik adhesive sticks very well. My plan was to fabricate the upper inside trunk panels (adding to the problem) and laying insulation and carpeting in the truck anyway.
    If I don't fix it what other problems can I anticipate? Any Ideas?

    Thanks,

    Ken

    P1000856(2).jpg
    Like TJ said.
    Don't be concerned with final body fit. The bullb seal can be compressed a fair amount.
    You stated you are going to fab inside panels. Perfect. Might I suggest you purchase your trunk carpeting, make the templates, cut the piece for your trunk and glue them in place before you put the body on for the final time. Its a pit of a pain to glue down carpet through the trunk opening.

  6. #6
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    Like TJ said.
    Don't be concerned with final body fit. The bullb seal can be compressed a fair amount.
    You stated you are going to fab inside panels. Perfect. Might I suggest you purchase your trunk carpeting, make the templates, cut the piece for your trunk and glue them in place before you put the body on for the final time. Its a pit of a pain to glue down carpet through the trunk opening.
    I said "slight possibility" and "probably not" regarding the added height. "Just something to watch." The fact is some guys have had to trim the height on the trunk sides and around the rear corners. Even with the ability for the bulb seal to compress and even with the sides installed directly on the frame.

    The OP asked if there were things he should watch for based on the backwards installation. I responded to his question and completely stand by the advice I gave him. It's a simple check along with all the other aspects of fitting the body.

    Fitting and installing the trunk carpet before putting the body on is excellent advice and spot on. I've done it both ways and definitely agree which is easier.
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-11-2017 at 02:58 PM.
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    Thanks for the carpet info.

  8. #8
    Papa's Avatar
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    I bought this to line my trunk.

    https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/...id/0/SFV/30046

    I've used it before and like how easy it is to apply.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member kobra01's Avatar
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    Okay so a possible fitment issue and undesirable looking, the aluminum is not very thick and I am going to cover it, so I think I can live with it. Don't tell anybody ok. Thanks for the comments guys.

    Papa great find on the carpet, how similar does it actually look compared to the factory carpet?
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    I got my trunk carpet from a marine upholstery shop. The places that make tops for boats. They usually have the same kind of carpet used in the roadster cockpit.

  11. #11
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kobra01 View Post
    Okay so a possible fitment issue and undesirable looking, the aluminum is not very thick and I am going to cover it, so I think I can live with it. Don't tell anybody ok. Thanks for the comments guys.

    Papa great find on the carpet, how similar does it actually look compared to the factory carpet?
    It's very similar to the look and feel of modern car trunk liners. They have a gray and a tan color available, too. I used it to cover a sub woofer enclosure and the back wall of the cab for my 1970 El Camino. Just cut it a little bigger than you need and use a good spray adhesive like 3M 77. Once it's where you want it, trim to fit.
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  12. #12
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    FFR sells the same carpet as the cockpit carpet, by the yard. I went with it for the continuity.
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  13. #13
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Just trim back that lower piece so it sets on the frame, or bend it up over the floor piece.. You're just way over thinking such a minor thing.

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