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Thread: FiTech wiring ?'s

  1. #1
    Jacob's Avatar
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    FiTech wiring ?'s

    I am getting ready to install a FiTech system (30003) and am using the standard RF harness. I had a couple of ?'s about the wiring of the fuel pump and cooling fan. I think its pretty well explained in the RF book but wanted to make sure before I start cutting jumpers.
    On wiring the fuel pump, in the RF book, page 7 it says the following:

    If the EFI harness uses its own wires for the fuel pump, cut the small tan jumper wire close to the connector that it jumpers from and connect the fuel pump wire from the EFI harness onto the chassis harness wire. (their wording confuses). So if I cut the tan jumper close to the fuse panel and connect the longer of the cut jumpered wires to the orange wire of the Fitech, I'll be correct?



    On the wiring of the cooling fan, on page 19 of the RF booklet it shows the same sort of deal on the cooling fan relay. The red jumper would be cut and the longer wire of the jumpered cut would be spliced onto the yellow wire of the Fitech ( wire to the ground terminal of the fan relay). RF uses the same sort of instruction here as on the fuel pump wire. Is this correct?

    On the pic below I have the pliers on the jumper that would be cut.



    As usual any and all help is appreciated.
    Last edited by Jacob; 08-12-2017 at 01:15 PM.
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
    T5
    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  2. #2
    Jacob's Avatar
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    ? I must be doing something wrong...no answers?
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
    T5
    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  3. #3
    Senior Member Lowrod's Avatar
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    Ill be installing the same FiTech system in the near future, sorry to say I cant help answers your questions but will be watching your post closely!

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    Hey there Jacob,
    I cut the Fuel pump line as you are showing, but it didn't work for me. I was wondering if I connected to the wrong side of the cut wire. Unfortunately, I cut one side way to short to be able to tie into it. Therefore, I just connected it to the fuel pump wire that ran to the back.





    As for the yellow fan wire, i haven't gotten that to work yet.
    Last edited by DadofThree; 08-13-2017 at 07:05 PM.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
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  5. #5
    Senior Member brewha's Avatar
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    On the fuel pump, you cut the small wire from the power feed. The Fitech will feed its own power to the fuel pump.
    On the fan, I did not cut the fan relay wire which supplies the power. The Fitech will control the ground on one of the green wires to the fan.
    When you get to the Fitech setup,you will see an option for FCC relay power set to 74.5. Do not change that as it controls the fuel pump and is set correctly in my experience. I learned from this by my
    mistake.
    Last edited by brewha; 08-13-2017 at 07:28 PM.

  6. #6
    Jacob's Avatar
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    thanks all for the feedback! I'll try to provide info on the outcome...assuming I end up being successful?
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
    T5
    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by brewha View Post
    On the fan, I did not cut the fan relay wire which supplies the power. The Fitech will control the ground on one of the green wires to the fan.
    Is this the green wire that you're speaking of? Connecting the yellow wire from the Fitech to this Green "Fan Thermo Sw" wire will allow the fitech to control the fan?

    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
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  8. #8
    Senior Member brewha's Avatar
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    Yes, the yellow goes to the fan control. There are 2 green wires for the fan. One I believe is in the control harness and the other is in the front wire harness. I used the one in the control harness for the Fitech connection.
    The front harness green wire I pulled all the way back to the dashboard to use as an override switch and ground.
    IMG_0051.JPG
    IMG_0052.JPG
    Last edited by brewha; 08-13-2017 at 08:40 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by brewha View Post
    Yes, the yellow goes to the fan control. There are 2 green wires for the fan. One I believe is in the control harness and the other is in the front wire harness. I used the one in the control harness for the Fitech connection.
    The front harness green wire I pulled all the way back to the dashboard to use as an override switch and ground.
    IMG_0051.JPG
    IMG_0052.JPG
    I'll connect the yellow fitech to my green FAN THERMO SW wire from my RF sending unit harness.

    With regards to your override switch, are you talking about the two wires that connect to the fan? You spliced into the supply side of those two wires all the way back to a switch to turn it on as an override?

    thanks for the help.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
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  10. #10
    Senior Member brewha's Avatar
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    There is a blue power wire and a black ground wire that connects to the fan. that is the main circuit.
    The green wires(there are 2) control the relay that supplies the power to the blue wire. Each of the 2 green wires acts on its own. Fitech gets one of them.
    The green wire in the forward wiring harness would connect to the thermo switch at the radiator and would ground the circuit if it got to the right temp and tell the relay to send the power to the fan. I saw no need for that switch as the Fitech was doing so. I used that wire for an override as the Fitech does not control it when the key is off and I'd like to let it continue to run if I need to. I ran it to switch and then grounded the switch.

    I hope this helps.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DadofThree View Post
    Hey there Jacob,
    I cut the Fuel pump line as you are showing, but it didn't work for me. I was wondering if I connected to the wrong side of the cut wire. Unfortunately, I cut one side way to short to be able to tie into it. Therefore, I just connected it to the fuel pump wire that ran to the back.





    As for the yellow fan wire, i haven't gotten that to work yet.
    Here's what I have done so far:
    1) Today I repaired the two jumpers that I cut, figured if they aren't working for you, they won't for me either!
    2) Tested the front Green Fan Switch wire and the Green Fan Switch wire near the dash, both turned on the fan when grounded
    3) Took the yellow wire from FiTech and tied it into the Green Fan Switch wire at the radiator
    4) Took the rear Green Fan Switch (nearest the dash) and tied it into a manual override switch on the dash
    5) White FiTech wire to the ignition switch where the Orange wire from RF
    6) Red Fitech to battery all the time
    7) Still questioning how to hook up the Fitech Orange to Fuel Pump? Do I cut into the + of the tan line to the fuel pump or the - of the fuel pump?
    8) Still questioning how to hook up the Fitech Blue to the Gray coming off the MSD Box? Do I splice into the gray which now goes to the yellow tach feed?


    *I'm using the MSD 6AL box and two wire distributor

    I'll try calling Fitech and see if I can find these answers.
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
    T5
    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob View Post
    figured if they aren't working for you, they won't for me either!
    Please don't come to this conclusion. I do a lot of things wrong the first and second time. I'm glad to hear the rest of the items wired up okay. I'll be learning from this thread too.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  13. #13
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    When you call Fitech, ask what's on their orange fuel pump wire. I have no experience with Fitech, but I'll bet you a frosty malt beverage that it's +12V. Also ask them if their fuel pump wire has an internal relay. Double or nothing the answer is yes.

    IF I'm right, you can either (1) use Fitech's orange fuel pump wire to trigger the RF relay like RF shows in their instructions, or (2) disconnect the RF weather pack connector that comes out of the fuel pump relay and connect your Fitech orange fuel pump wire to that, and use the RF fuel pump circuit to power something else.

    NOTE: That little jumper connects pin 86 (Relay Coil Feed) to pin 30 (High Power Feed) on the fuel pump relay. Since the High Power Feed is live at run & start, it triggers the relay and lets high power flow to the pump. Pretty slick little short cut.


    John

    RelayWiringGuide.jpg

    PS: Be SURE to tell Fitech you're using an MSD box. If you connect that box incorrectly you can brick your EFI computer.
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 08-14-2017 at 05:26 PM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  14. #14
    Senior Member brewha's Avatar
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    The orange line for the fuel pump is a positive line? I connected it to the positive side of the fuel relay although you can by pass the fuel relay switch all together if you wish and connect it directly to the fuel pump power wire. Here is a picture of mine using the relay.
    IMG_0054.JPG

    I'm running a coil so I can't help you with the MSD box, but here is the top of coil picture.
    IMG_0056.JPG

  15. #15
    Jacob's Avatar
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    I got an email from Fitech today and got clarity on the blue wire..(since I'm using an MSD Box with a two wire distributor this won't apply to all)...per their instructions, the blue wire from the FiTech and the gray wire from the MSD box both join the tach feed wire.

    For some reason they chose to not answer my orange wire question?

    From what I can figure from FiTech's FAQ's, the Orange wire from the FiTech can be directly connected to the power wire of the fuel pump as long as the fuel pump is 15 amps or less. The computer in the fitech system will control the flow from the pump if wired this way...if the FiTech Orange wire goes through a relay the pump will be at 100% all the time and won't be controllable or adjustable using the handheld gadget. FiTech seems to strongly support no relay. Don't quote me on that but that's what I got from their responses to other's questions.The orange FiTech wire does provide 12 volts and its own relay
    Last edited by Jacob; 08-14-2017 at 09:09 PM.
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
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    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
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  16. #16
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Written directions and all diagrams in the FiTech installation manual show and say the orange wire is +12v and connected directly to the fuel pump. No relay needed. The FiTech may reduce voltage to the pump during low demand situations and cannot do this through a relay. I've installed 1 setup in my Mustang and am now doing another in my roadster. Works very well.

    I connect my orange wire directly to the fuel pump feed wire behind the dash at the rear wiring harness plug. Removed the fuel pump relay and associated wiring. Using the fuel pump fuse for the heated seats.
    Last edited by Boydster; 08-15-2017 at 02:34 PM.
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  17. #17
    Jacob's Avatar
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    I am waiting for an opinion from the engine builder but the way I ended up wiring the MSD box and FiTech is as follows:
    Plan to try to startup maybe next week?

    MSD Box
    Red - to IGN SW (orange IGN Feed)
    Orange- + terminal coil
    Black - - terminal of coil
    Green / Violet - to the Distributor (its a two wire)
    White - not used
    Gray - to tach feed and Blue wire from Fitech
    Ground - to frame

    FiTech
    Yellow - the ground (green FAN Switch wire)
    White - to IGN Feed
    Red - to battery, hot all the time
    Blue - to gray of MSD box and the yellow tach feed (got feedback from my engine guy's electrical guy, and he advised that this combination can be done but there may be "feedback" to the tach, so he advised take the blue to the gray and come off the - post of the coil for the tach feed, so that's what I did...we'll see soon)
    Black - not used (for A/C)
    Orange- directly to the intank fuel pump (not using the tan RF feed to the pump)
    I'll clean up the wiring once I make sure all is good.
    Last edited by Jacob; 08-18-2017 at 08:28 PM.
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
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    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  18. #18
    Jacob's Avatar
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    Well, this didn't work. Blue - to gray of MSD box and the yellow tach feed (got feedback from my engine guy's electrical guy, and he advised that this combination can be done but there may be "feedback" to the tach, so he advised take the blue to the gray and come off the - post of the coil for the tach feed, so that's what I did...

    Couldn't start, almost like no fire? seems Fitech was doing all it was supposed to do (primed and pumped up the system), but seems the MSD is incorrect. The LED lights, blinks 5 times and goes off. I have read where this is an issue that is easily fixed? Tomorrow, intend to put my blue wiring back like it was and try again. Going to combine the blue Fitech, gray MSD and the yellow tach feed wire and see what happens.
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
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    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
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  19. #19
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    Jacob - not sure if this has been said or not but....make sure your tip over valve is reset. If that switch is open, your fuel pump signal won't get to the pump.

  20. #20
    Jacob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickP View Post
    Jacob - not sure if this has been said or not but....make sure your tip over valve is reset. If that switch is open, your fuel pump signal won't get to the pump.
    The fuel pump does fine and the fitech unit is squirting the prime shots...spent all day doing various trials. Per the MSD ignition test it checked out that the ignition system is working. Tested going straight to the battery with both power and grounds. Was able to get the "5 blinks then off" when I disconnected the fitech system and de energized the MSD. The MSD manual says the LED should remain on when the key is in the ON position...it doesn't so I'll talk to MSD tomorrow. Next I'll take a look at the timing, I don't think its that far off, but maybe it is? While trying to start I'll get a hit about everyother rotation, so maybe timing is 180 degrees off?
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
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    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  21. #21
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    One other thing to check...IF you want your Fitech computer to control the timing, make sure you've set it up to do so. I spent a couple of days scratching my head because I failed to tell my Holley EFI computer that it should trigger the coil. No spark = no start. Once I corrected my mistake, the engine fired right up.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  22. #22
    Jacob's Avatar
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    The short story, after pulling my hair out for 2 days and assuming all sorts of problems...timing was out 180 degrees...ran a bit rough but started and sounded good...maybe I shouldn't have assumed the distributor would have been correct? Had to use the accelerator, was expecting to start without having to accelerate? Maybe some adjustments are in order...
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
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    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
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  23. #23
    Senior Member Lowrod's Avatar
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    How is everyone attaching the Oxygen Sensor to your exhaust for the FiTech system?

    I'm using FFR 4 into 4's and need to weld the sensor bung, has only one done this and if so do you have photos of the bung position?

    Also if the position is on a single cylinder tub does the FiTech operate correctly?

  24. #24
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    I don't have a pic handy but I ended up (after some trial and error), welding a bung into the passenger side pipe just after the collector, angled down about 20 degrees. I needed to add a spacer to the pipe flange when I fit the body so it would clear. My first attempt was to tap into the header on the last cylinder pipe. Don't do that. Car just wouldn't run right until I moved the sensor to the side pipe collector.

  25. #25
    Senior Member Lowrod's Avatar
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    RickP:

    A photo would be great but it sounds like you welded the oxygen sensor bung onto the side pipe collector in a downward angle.

  26. #26
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowrod View Post
    RickP:

    A photo would be great but it sounds like you welded the oxygen sensor bung onto the side pipe collector in a downward angle.
    The side pipe location was the advice of FiTech technical support. Even though the directions say it can be located on the header last cylinder bank pipe, the motor barely ran and was way rich. She came to life when the sensor was moved to the side pipe. I'm sure I have a pic somewhere. I'll get one or two posted for you.

    I will caution you in that if your state requires heat shields to get past the safety inspection, you may have to get a little creative in mounting the shield as the bung could be in the way. Last, chuck the FiTech supplied bung patch in the trash and have one welded in place.

  27. #27
    Senior Member Lowrod's Avatar
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    RickP:

    My last build (MK2) was completed in upstate South Carolina and did not require any exhaust heat shields. I now live in Alabama and have not checked into the requirement regarding exhaust heat shields. This brings up an intresting situation as I do not like the Idea of modifying the heat sheld or mounting hardware.

    If you have any pictures referencing the oxygen sensor placement and/or heat shield install over the oxygen sensor it would be very helpful.

    I would like to avoid this any clearance issue with the oxygen sensor, heat shield and mounting hardware.

    Thanks

  28. #28
    Senior Member brewha's Avatar
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    I ran mine to the header pipe number 3. It runs great. It needs more learning but that will come with more go-karting. .IMG_0060.JPG

  29. #29
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    This is where I ended up with mine (sorry, real bad pic). But this is looking at the part of the passenger side pipe after the point of all 4 pipes form into 1. There is a 1/4 spacer (Breeze Automotive) between the pipe and header. It actually clears more than the pic shows.


  30. #30
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    I hooked up my fitech yellow wire to the green “thermostat fan sw” wire as suggested above and then hooked up the blue power wire to the fan and then ran the black wire to the frame for a ground. Once the engine got up to temp the fan never kicked on. Any thoughts?
    Ryan
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  31. #31
    Senior Member brewha's Avatar
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    Check the fan by grounding the green wire. If the circuit is correct the fan should start. If it starts then the Fitech setting may be incorrect or malfunctioning. There are 2 green fan grounds so you should not have disconnect the one running to the Fitech, just ground the other wire..... you can use the other wire as an override as I did.... just throw a toggle switch in.

  32. #32
    Member Johnc1's Avatar
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    I just picked up the FiTech Go EFI 1200. The instructions says the orange wire is required for the fuel pump. My fuel pump has a power source or do I need to use the ECU power source?
    Last edited by Johnc1; 05-04-2018 at 08:18 PM.

  33. #33
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    Brewha,

    I grounded the other thermostat switch wire to the chassis and nothing happens. All of my testing was done with the motor not running, just with the switch in to ignition, and then to accessory.

    I tested the fan directly (bypassed the relay) and it works. I unplugged and checked the fuse. Any other ideas?
    Ryan
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  34. #34
    Senior Member brewha's Avatar
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    Hi rychi1

    The fan is controlled by 2 circuits. The primary circuit runs through the relay to power the fan. This is the dark blue and black wire to the fan. The activation circuit of the relay is the uncut red wire and the dark green wire (ground which there are 2). Fitech controls the ground side of the circuit(or a thermo ground sensor switch or a manual override switch in other configurations).
    You tested the circuit br bypassing the relay and it worked so the issue is at the relay. My guess is that the red wire was cut or not connected to the activation circuit of the relay or the relay is bad. If the red wire is not cut then test the relay by pulling the relay out, run power to activation switch connectors and test the primary circuit for continuity.

    There needs to be power running into the relay activation circuit for the ground switch to activate the relay.

    The RF wire harness instructions say to cut the red wire, but that must be for computers that control the power and not the ground side of the circuit. In the Fitech scenario, we need the power run into the circuit.

    Once it’s working, I do like having an override switch available. Remember, once you turn off the key, the Fitech no longer controls the fan. On a hot day you may want to run the fan longer.

    Hope this helps.

  35. #35
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnc1 View Post
    I just picked up the FiTech Go EFI 1200. The instructions says the orange wire is required for the fuel pump. My fuel pump has a power source or do I need to use the ECU power source?
    Hi John C,

    I was hoping someone with actual experience with the FiTech system would respond, but to get the conversation started I'll share what I suspect. Provided the FiTech orange wire provides enough current to drive your fuel pump (almost guaranteed to be the case, but call to make sure), I believe you can power the fuel pump with your existing power source OR FiTech system (don't use both; that would be bad). So you can choose whatever method you deem best.

    To help with your decision, consider how the circuit behaves when the engine isn't running. You don't say what harness you're using, but the Ron Francis harness powers the fuel pump as long as the key is in the RUN or START position. On my Holley Terminator system, turning the key to RUN causes the fuel pump to run for about 5 seconds and then shut off. You can use a volt meter to determine if the FiTech circuit behaves the same way.

    Another consideration: on my Holley system, the fuel pump relay wiring is easily accessible; I spliced my inertia switch into the Holley fuel pump relay trigger circuit. I don't believe FiTech provides you access to the fuel pump relay wiring so this isn't an option; you may want to give FiTech a call and find out if the ECU provides a shut off in case of a crash or roll over. If FiTech doesn't - which I find highly unlikely - then you may determine that your existing power source is the way to go.

    Hopefully someone with actual FiTech experience can confirm or refute what I've guessed.


    John

    P.S. If you do decide to use FiTech as the power source, then you can re-purpose your existing power source for something else (like seat heaters, or foot box fans, or cigarette lighter ports, or whatever).
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  36. #36
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    I was hoping someone with actual experience with the FiTech system would respond, but to get the conversation started I'll share what I suspect. Provided the FiTech orange wire provides enough current to drive your fuel pump (almost guaranteed to be the case, but call to make sure), I believe you can power the fuel pump with your existing power source OR FiTech system (don't use both; that would be bad). So you can choose whatever method you deem best.
    The FiTech does drive the fuel pump directly by the orange wire. No relay. The FiTech likes to vary pump power according to hi or low loads. Still requires a return system.

    To help with your decision, consider how the circuit behaves when the engine isn't running. You don't say what harness you're using, but the Ron Francis harness powers the fuel pump as long as the key is in the RUN or START position. On my Holley Terminator system, turning the key to RUN causes the fuel pump to run for about 5 seconds and then shut off. You can use a volt meter to determine if the FiTech circuit behaves the same way.
    The FiTech does, indeed, work the same way.

    Another consideration: on my Holley system, the fuel pump relay wiring is easily accessible; I spliced my inertia switch into the Holley fuel pump relay trigger circuit. I don't believe FiTech provides you access to the fuel pump relay wiring so this isn't an option; you may want to give FiTech a call and find out if the ECU provides a shut off in case of a crash or roll over. If FiTech doesn't - which I find highly unlikely - then you may determine that your existing power source is the way to go.
    I do not know the answer to this. I do know if you use their Fuel Command Center (or whatever it's called; for converting a low pressure fuel system to a high pressure system), then that does include a rollover valve. I dont know if the base FiTech unit does.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
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    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  37. #37
    Senior Member brewha's Avatar
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    After reading up on on the 1200, it acts just like the 800 or the 600.
    The power source for the orange wire is 12 volt and can be set to constant or variable to control either a power relay or the fuel pump directly. The setting is controlled by “fcc power relay” setting. It is set to constant on from the factory.
    I used the RF wiring harness and connected the Fitech to the power relay to activate the relay during key on. I’m also using the inertia switch to Deactivate the power if the tires ever feel the need for a sun tan. I cannot recall how it’s wired though. My fuel pump(195lph) is in the tank.

    The system has its own pressure regulator (58lbs). I would not run one in front of it.

    There is lots of information at the FitechEfi.com/faq and also in the control console where the debugging information is stored.
    So you have lots of options either going direct connect or by relay. I would think that the voltage could be shut off to the orange wire but would talk to Fitech first to get the right fcc setting.

  38. #38
    Member Johnc1's Avatar
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    Hi Fogg
    Thank for the input. I am running an Areomotive A1000 pump and I already have return lines installed. The FiTech is being installed on a 408 running 11 lb. of boost. Ignition is an MSD 6- BTM with boost retard. Looking at the instructions I need, red power, yellow/black engine temp, blue tach input, O2 harness, white 12v sw. The rest as needed or wanted. It is vague as to the best place to connect it the blue wire. It said to the neg. side of the coil. Reading others forums people seem to be having erratic results doing this. So, any input on the blue wire that would appreciated. I am looking forward getting this system installed.

  39. #39
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnc1 View Post
    Hi Fogg
    Thank for the input. I am running an Areomotive A1000 pump and I already have return lines installed. The FiTech is being installed on a 408 running 11 lb. of boost. Ignition is an MSD 6- BTM with boost retard. Looking at the instructions I need, red power, yellow/black engine temp, blue tach input, O2 harness, white 12v sw. The rest as needed or wanted. It is vague as to the best place to connect it the blue wire. It said to the neg. side of the coil. Reading others forums people seem to be having erratic results doing this. So, any input on the blue wire that would appreciated. I am looking forward getting this system installed.
    Double check what wiring is required for compatibility with the MSD box vs a standard coil. It's different for the Holley system, and if you connect the MSD box incorrectly you can fry the ECU.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  40. #40
    Member Johnc1's Avatar
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    Will do John
    Thanks

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