Castle nuts tighten too low for cotter pin

[BlackSunshine]

Installing front suspension, ran into an issue. The castle nuts on both front spindles, upper and lower, tighten down further than the holes for the cotter pin (holes are above castle 'peaks'). I used the spacer on the lower and there was nothing to use on the upper. I haven't even torqued them yet, just snug with a wrench. Did I maybe do something wrong?

[mikeinatlanta]

First I would verify proper seating without the ball joint boot to make certain that it seats on the taper. If it seats on the ball joint shaft taper, then you can add washers as needed for the cotter pin.

Keep in mind that when first assembling a mixture of parts, you always have a risk of parts not being compatible even if the part numbers indicate they are, so it is important to verify everything.

[RoadRacer]

This seems like a common problem. See my build thread - you just need to add more spacer: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post278120

Here's my bigger post on the subject: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ghlight=castle

[BlackSunshine]

Ah ok, I was about to go cut some tubing for a spacer but thought I'd check. I had everything powder coated so.. maybe there was something missing after. Glad to see your build looks like a twin of mine! I swear I could have taken those pics in my shop, right down to the 'spreader tool', black painted parts, and flipping the steering rack bracket over! (So.. I should flip it back to what the manual says?)

I was also concerned about the amount of compression on the ball joints boots but they look like yours. It takes a bit of effort to turn the spindles by hand, also I'm going to guess those boots will wear down as they seem to turn against the spindle.

My only other concern now is the bike fender mounts seem to get very close to the upper arm, but I don't have the steering rack on yet so maybes it's outside range. Also one hub came apart during fitting.. I hammered it back together and I think it's fine but it's troubling.

Thanks for the help!

[RoadRacer]

(So.. I should flip it back to what the manual says?)

yes

[Doutie]

I've found that not all castle nuts are created equal, some are taller than others. It would pay to research suppliers for ones that fit the application. I've used washers before to shim up a nut but don't like it. The more pieces you stack up the more likely it will loosen.

[DaveS53]

A nut with a cotter pin through it, with a large toque applied is not going to loosen.

[duff33]

I ran into the same issue with the upper ball joint needing a spacer. I took the castle nut to ff5 and they figure that the ball joint supplier has gone to a shorter nut, so it will require a spacer.

[TDSapp]

I ran into the same issue with the upper ball joint needing a spacer. I took the castle nut to ff5 and they figure that the ball joint supplier has gone to a shorter nut, so it will require a spacer.

I wonder if this is also linked with the same issue of the spindle\hub nut being either 1 3/8ths or 36mm... I have the 36mm nut and did not seem to have an issue with the castle nut and cotter pin.



Tim Sapp

[HVACMAN]

Ditto on what Tim said. I also had the 36mm spindle nut and had no issue with the ball joints.

[NAZ]

My lowers needed a spacer and they were supplied in the kit. As Mike said earlier, make sure the taper seats correctly -- that's what keeps the stud from working its way loose. A taper fit ensures that the stud does not wobble around from lateral loads where a straight shank would rely on clamping force alone which is not as reliable as a taper, especially where only one fastener is used. Ball joint studs experience more lateral loads than tensile loads so that's why the taper design is the standard. There is nothing fundamentally wrong with adding a spacer on a fastener, in fact engineers sometimes specify a spacer where it seems odd to have one. They may do this to gain stretch to mitigate high cycle fatigue failures or to ensure that the shank is in shear rather than the threads. A fastener (bolt) is like a spring. To maximize clamping force and help prevent it from loosening it gets tightened enough to stretch it to around 75% of its proof load. This is not necessary on a tapered shank ball joint stud. If the taper fits correctly there is no problem using a spacer or washer to align the castle nut with the cotter pin hole. And while I'm anal about torquing fasteners, tapered ball joint studs is my exception. I don't get worried bout torquing a ball joint stud -- hand tight to seat the taper and line up the cotter pin hole and I'm done.