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Thread: No more cutting Coyote pedal

  1. #1
    Senior Member Paul2STL's Avatar
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    No more cutting Coyote pedal

    So I did the inventory and noticed that there was no spare pedal in the Coyote installation kit. Called FFR and they said that cutting the stock pedal isn't needed anymore. Was wondering if anyone had any experience with using the stock uncut pedal that came in the Coyote wiring kit from Ford? I'm using a new 2017 crate motor.
    MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, In gelcoat, licensed and driving 8/11/18. Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Paint Jeff Miller Da Bat, Lexus Spectra Blue Mica W/Toyota Silver Sky Metallic strips. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Paul2STL-Build

  2. #2
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul2STL View Post
    So I did the inventory and noticed that there was no spare pedal in the Coyote installation kit. Called FFR and they said that cutting the stock pedal isn't needed anymore. Was wondering if anyone had any experience with using the stock uncut pedal that came in the Coyote wiring kit from Ford? I'm using a new 2017 crate motor.
    The pedal doesn't come from FFR. It comes with the control pack when you buy the motor.
    As far as cutting the pedal not being needed anymore I guess that is possible with the new motor but I wouldnt be surprised if FFR might have given you some incorrect info. I got wrong info from them more than once.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  3. #3
    Senior Member Paul2STL's Avatar
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    Scott,
    I'm talking about the pedal you bolt to the stock pedal that FFR has sent in the kits. I have the pedal assembly from Ford.
    MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, In gelcoat, licensed and driving 8/11/18. Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Paint Jeff Miller Da Bat, Lexus Spectra Blue Mica W/Toyota Silver Sky Metallic strips. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Paul2STL-Build

  4. #4
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    There was no pedal from FFR you bolt to the stock pedal, that operation was cutting up the stock pedal from ford than putting it back together in a compact configuration to get it off the floor.
    In my build, I used the stock pedal that came with the control pack as is, just cut off the bottom of it so it worldn't hit the floor.
    pictures: (second pic is original, first pic is after mod)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by H R Lucky; 08-19-2017 at 11:24 PM. Reason: spelling
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  5. #5
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H R Lucky View Post
    There was no pedal from FFR you bolt to the stock pedal, that operation was cutting up the stock pedal from ford than putting it back together in a compact configuration to get it off the floor.
    In my build, I used the stock pedal that came with the control pack as is, just cut off the bottom of it so it worldn't hit the floor.
    pictures: (second pic is original, first pic is after mod)
    In my kit delivered June 2016 there was a pedal you used from FFR which is different from H R Lucky. Not sure what changed when, things are always being updated. Please post some pics Paul when you get done so we can all see the latest version.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  6. #6
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Pictured below is the Ford DBW pedal assembly that came with my 2015 Gen 2 Coyote. Pretty sure it's very similar if not exactly the same as the previous version. Left as is and installed where FF shows in their instructions would place it very low in the foot box IMO. Does your 2017 one look the same? If so, and nothing else has changed, I would recommend reconsidering the advice you were given.

    Also pictured is my final installation with it cut down, the FF provided replacement pedal, and where I installed it. I made a new mounting plate and moved the whole assembly up a bit from their instructions. As high as it would go without additional modifications. The accelerator pedal still ends up a bit below the brake and clutch pedals. But in actual use (1200+ miles now) it feels OK.

    One other comment. When I was doing mine, I read a number of comments from other builders who were concerned that cutting down the pedal and reducing the amount of movement of the pedal would make it too sensitive. Even at the stock length, the actual movement of the DBW pedal is less than a traditional carb cable/linkage setup. What I've found though is whether cut down or not, it works fine. You quickly adapt to the amount of movement required. The Coyote is very responsive to the throttle (have to love modern fuel injection and computer control) and is easy to drive even with the relatively small accelerator movement required.



    Last edited by edwardb; 08-20-2017 at 07:25 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Paul2STL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Pictured below is the Ford DBW pedal assembly that came with my 2015 Gen 2 Coyote. Pretty sure it's very similar if not exactly the same as the previous version. Left as is and installed where FF shows in their instructions would place it very low in the foot box IMO. Does your 2017 one look the same? If so, and nothing else has changed, I would recommend reconsidering the advice you were given.

    Also pictured is my final installation with it cut down, the FF provided replacement pedal, and where I installed it. I made a new mounting plate and moved the whole assembly up a bit from their instructions. As high as it would go without additional modifications. The accelerator pedal still ends up a bit below the brake and clutch pedals. But in actual use (1200+ miles now) it feels OK.

    One other comment. When I was doing mine, I read a number of comments from other builders who were concerned that cutting down the pedal and reducing the amount of movement of the pedal would make it too sensitive. Even at the stock length, the actual movement of the DBW pedal is less than a traditional carb cable/linkage setup. What I've found though is whether cut down or not, it works fine. You quickly adapt to the amount of movement required. The Coyote is very responsive to the throttle (have to love modern fuel injection and computer control) and is easy to drive even with the relatively small accelerator movement required.



    Thanks Paul
    I have the exact same pedal you have that came with the Ford Coyote wiring kit. No pedal from FFR just was wondering why they did a pedal mod in the first place, if they are now telling customers not to do the pedal mod anymore. Looking at the mount I think I will need to make a new pedal mount that raises it similar to the one you did. I just hope it isn't to close to the inner foot box wall since there is no way to really bend the plastic pedal arm of the Ford pedal.
    MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, In gelcoat, licensed and driving 8/11/18. Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Paint Jeff Miller Da Bat, Lexus Spectra Blue Mica W/Toyota Silver Sky Metallic strips. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Paul2STL-Build

  8. #8
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul2STL View Post
    Thanks Paul. I have the exact same pedal you have that came with the Ford Coyote wiring kit. No pedal from FFR just was wondering why they did a pedal mod in the first place, if they are now telling customers not to do the pedal mod anymore. Looking at the mount I think I will need to make a new pedal mount that raises it similar to the one you did. I just hope it isn't to close to the inner foot box wall since there is no way to really bend the plastic pedal arm of the Ford pedal.
    Follow the directions for trimming the module itself and then start mocking up the installation. Get it as high as you can. I found the steering column limited the height. I notched it a little so it fit around the 3.4-inch square tube and gave a better L/R position. Once in place, you can determine the best angle to give clearance to the sidewall as well as the brake pedal. You can also then decide if it needs to be shorter. The FF pedal that used to be provided, and still is with complete kits, is a Lokar knock-off. An actual Lokar part could be used instead. Or ask on the forum. Lots of guys don't used the provided pedal for their non-Coyote builds, but rather substitute the Russ Thompson piece.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  9. #9
    Director of R&D, FFR Jim Schenck's Avatar
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    What I have done with the newer pedal (2015+ control pack) is remove the pad then notch it and re-install it upside down. This shortens it a nice amount but leaves a good amount of pedal with the curved surface that helps your foot roll over it as it arcs away from you. I had to trim the pad down a little to get it to sit right but the finished product looks OEM from the drivers view. I will look and see if I can find some pictures. Also getting it up as high as you can so the plug just clears the steering shaft is the key getting the height and feel right.

    The older control pack pedals are one piece so I still would recommend cutting those down.
    Jim Schenck
    Factory Five Racing

  10. #10
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Schenck View Post
    What I have done with the newer pedal (2015+ control pack) is remove the pad then notch it and re-install it upside down. This shortens it a nice amount but leaves a good amount of pedal with the curved surface that helps your foot roll over it as it arcs away from you. I had to trim the pad down a little to get it to sit right but the finished product looks OEM from the drivers view. I will look and see if I can find some pictures.
    That's an interesting idea! I have the pad left over from the 2015 DBW assembly used on my #8674 build, so took a couple pictures of it.

    Going to check this out on my next build.



    Last edited by edwardb; 08-20-2017 at 09:04 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  11. #11
    Senior Member jetheft's Avatar
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    I cut the pedal, sectioned out the center, then glued and bolted the two pieces together.

    Sprayed it with some bedliner to finish it off.
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    Last edited by jetheft; 08-20-2017 at 11:28 PM.
    Joel "Beef" Heft
    LIFE'S JOURNEY is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy Shi*, what a ride!"

    FFR MK3 #4306, 05 Mustang 4.6L 3V, 5 Speed, IRS, Dual Roll Bars, Power Steering and Power Brakes.

  12. #12
    Member 3dGuy's Avatar
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    I was able to use the coyote peddle from lokar. Only problem was the wire diagram from Ford racing is incorrect for the peddle. Feel free to message me if you would like the corrected wiring for this. I really prefer the lokar since your able to adjust the peddle to your comfort and best position.
    20953055_10155676581227704_9089823777204758447_n.jpg
    My build site : www.ScootinThunder33.com

  13. #13
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    Flipped the pad on the Coyote pedal for Gen 3 Coupe. Worked great.

    I first modified the body of the accelerator assembly as described in the manual. I wanted to see if I could flip the pedal pad as Jim described above. Modifying the pad and arm with hacksaw and Dremel was not too hard, but when I mounted it on the mounting plate, it was about 1/2" from the right side of the footbox. I then drilled new holes to mount to. The top hole to the right and the lower hole to the left. It moved the pedal pad just where I wanted it. Flipping the pedal pad raises the pad around 1 1/2" which I think is just enough.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
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    I do something similar. Except I don't turn the pedal over.

    I cut the bottom of the arm of, leaving enough of a lip to get the bottom of the Pedal cover to slip over it. Then drill a hole in the arm for the bolt to protrude through and use the factory screw into the pedal cover. I don't cut the pedal cover at all.

    I see how your way does not drill another hole in the arm. Which is nice!
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

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