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Thread: Body Fitment

  1. #1
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    Body Fitment

    Here's a question for the pros regarding centering our non-symmetrical bodies on the frame. I believe this may have been mentioned but not the focus in threads. I have the body centered on the frame as viewed from the engine compartment. Meaning, as I look at the engine bay, the body appears centered on the upper frame rails. To achieve this, I pulled the front of the body to the right before securing the quick jack bolts. As a consequence, the left front wheel is slightly outside of the wheel well and the left exhaust flange is showing in the exhaust cut out. And, needing to pull the panel in front of the driver's door in may be adding to the exposed exhaust flange.

    So...if I can live with the engine bay/ body alignment not looking perfect, I think I can remedy the wheel well and exposed flange issues.

    I thought I would ask before I begin loosening things up and making adjustments.
    Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8658. 04 of 20. 3.31 IRS.
    Forte 427 Dart, TKO 600, Quick Fuel 780 carb. Delivered 9/2/2015, First start/Go Cart 2/18/2017.
    Road Legal August 31, 2017

  2. #2
    PLATNUM Supporting Member
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    IMO the engine bay is not the way to align the body. I start by installing the rear bumper/quick jack bolts. Then I make the front fenders the same measurement from the frame as in the manual. This has always given me good results. The engine is not centered in the frame IMO.

  3. #3
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    Two questions:

    Have you had the wheels aligned yet? If your camber is not set the wheels may not tuck in properly.

    Have you installed you front elephant ears yet? The elephant ears may help with the header flange clearance.

    Lastly, no two chassis are the same. Installing the rear quick jacks as mentioned will help give you a good starting point. Everything else becomes a compromise from there on.

  4. #4
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    To center the body you should measure from a fixed point on the suspension to the lip of the wheel well. Make those measurements identical side to side. You'll almost certainly find that the body doesn't line up with anything on the frame and that's OK. You also may find that the front frame members need adjusting inward or outward to get those measurements identical, or to get the quick jack mounting plate to clear one of the brake duct openings. Loosen the lower radiator mount (if you have one) and give the offending member a whack or two with a dead blow hammer.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  5. #5
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Center the body over the chassis by measuring from the wheelwell lip to the upper shock mount, NOT on the tubing surrounding the engine bay.

    Jeff

  6. #6
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    I will loosen/remove everything tomorrow and reset the body. While I'm at it, I will apply undercoating to the front splash guards and wheel well panels. Good time to do as I wait for title and plates to arrive...now week 3.

    Jeff, PM sent.
    Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8658. 04 of 20. 3.31 IRS.
    Forte 427 Dart, TKO 600, Quick Fuel 780 carb. Delivered 9/2/2015, First start/Go Cart 2/18/2017.
    Road Legal August 31, 2017

  7. #7

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Center the body over the chassis by measuring from the wheelwell lip to the upper shock mount, NOT on the tubing surrounding the engine bay.

    Jeff
    Great Tip!

  8. #8
    PLATNUM Supporting Member
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    To echo what Jeff said and I said earlier. It is in the manual to use the top shock mount for centering the front of the body.

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