Ignition Switch Fitment in FFR Padded Dash

[Papa]

The ignition switch doesn't seem to want to tighten enough to bring the cylinder flush with the bezel. Has anyone found a solution for this?

[weendoggy]

Does the switch have the adjusting nut on the other side? If so, you'll need to move it toward the switch body and then tighten the ring. This will be a trial and error part of the never ending build.

[Papa]

Does the switch have the adjusting nut on the other side? If so, you'll need to move it toward the switch body and then tighten the ring. This will be a trial and error part of the never ending build.

Unfortunately, it doesn't. It's cast pot metal with no depth adjustment.

[Railroad]

I trial fitted my gauges, light sw and ign sw on the plastic padded dash,,,, same fit. Did not think there were enough threads to get the nut started, but it did.

[Papa]

I trial fitted my gauges, light sw and ign sw on the plastic padded dash,,,, same fit. Did not think there were enough threads to get the nut started, but it did.

Did you get the cylinder flush on yours?

[Big Blocker]

Papa,

Does the front of the switch have a "raised" area behind the threads for the bezel? If it does, and there is sufficient material there, you can grind down that "excess" and maybe give yourself the needed 1/8" of forward movement.
Just a suggestion, not all switches have anything to grind down - a different switch might be your salvation here.

Doc

[Railroad]

Did you get the cylinder flush on yours?

No. I will look it over as I take the dash apart.

I checked the switch today. To flush the switch and nut, the nut has to be run down to about .060 from bottoming out. The shoulder on the switch behind the dash, might be 1/8" thick, not much material to be thinning down for more threads.