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Thread: Cockpit body edge trimming

  1. #1
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Cockpit body edge trimming

    I'm getting ready to install the body for the 2nd time. Two items needed before I do, is final shimming and adjusting the window side supports in order to not have any twisting or side forces on the supports when they are torqued down (hopefully to eliminate that dreaded cracked window in a year or two.)

    The second task is to trim the forward cockpit body edge (next to dash) and the rearward cockpit body edge (next to rear trunk wall). My first body install showed that both the forward and rear edges were pretty tight and sitting a little too snug against the dash and rear bulkhead. I think there needs to be some relief there, and I need to trim both, but as it looks now, the front edge needs the majority of trimming. The body roll in that spot has about 1/4" or less that can be trimmed off. The body roll in the back has more that can be trimmed, maybe 3/8" give or take, but only a small amount in the rear will need to be trimmed, partly due to that rear bulkhead being able to flex and because it's not fitting quite so tight in that area.

    My question is, how much have you all trimmed the body roll (if trimmed any), forward and rear, to allow the body to "float" around the dash and the rear wall/bulkhead, and not be "wedged" in with too much force on the mating surfaces? Should there be a gap between the dash and the body roll edge (I have a vinyl covered dash), and/or between the rear bulkhead and the body roll edge (I have carpet up the rear wall to the top.)? If so, how much of a gap should there be?

    Thanks all.

    (BTW... Sending prayers and good thoughts to all in the Southeast in the path of Irma.)
    Last edited by boat737; 09-07-2017 at 10:16 AM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    This question is very timely; thanks for asking. I've got some friends coming over tonight to help me get the body off the buck in anticipation of trimming just as you describe.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    My experience with two Mk4 bodies was very similar. The dash cockpit roll needed to be cleaned up and straightened, but I didn't have to trim much at all to get a minimum of 1/8-inch of clearance from the covered dash. You don't want the body touching the dash. For the rear cockpit roll, it also needed to be cleaned and straightened, but also trimmed back for a reasonable fit. It's a tight fit including with the carpet, and touching is OK. You're right, it's flexible. But mainly in the middle. Out toward the ends where there isn't much sticking up above the chassis frame (by the shoulder belt exits) it's a lot stiffer. That's mainly where I had to add some additional clearance. Note this is just my experience. I don't know how exactly repeatable the trimming is of the body out of the molds. No doubt there is some variation.

    Before getting too aggressive with trimming (hard to put material back...) make sure the body position is correct. Check this post from Jeff Kleiner to confirm it's positioned properly front/back. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...ml#post5297025.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-07-2017 at 10:46 AM.
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  4. #4
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    what do you use to trim the material off the body roll?

  5. #5
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    I used a DA sander, then a block sanding board to true up. I first scribed a line to follow for reference. I took about 1/8" off front and back roll of my 289. Do this before you fit the doors, as it will affect the door gaps.

  6. #6
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    I used a belt sander to trim mine. I have the FFR vinyl dash with glove box mounted about 1/4" away from the dash hoop. That caused interference with the body roll because I have button head bolts in the face of the dash into tapping plates riveted to the dash hoop. Had to remove body material nearly to the beginning of the roll. I have about 1/4" clearance between the surfaces now. You can't see that area when in the car so any gap is okay. On the rear I have koolmat and carpet so that works out to be about 1/2" added to the rear wall. The wall is flexible in the center but not at all by the shoulder belts. I removed the material from the rolled edge similar to the dash area. Carpet barely touches the body. My body is located as far forward as I can get it to go. Nice contact with the bulb seal by the trunk area. I also removed a bit of the aluminum at the rear trunk sides vertical edge. About 3/8" at most. My wheels are dead center in the openings. Good luck.
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottiec View Post
    what do you use to trim the material off the body roll?
    Belt sander with 50 grit. Only took a few minutes and the end result was nice and straight. Like others, the front rolled edge required more trimming than the back. The front clearance is about 1/4". The back edge makes contact with the carpet on the back cockpit wall.

  8. #8
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    Thank you guys for the info. I am a couple of weeks away from test fitting the body

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