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Thread: Timing chain cover gasket replacement pointers and tips please

  1. #1
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    Timing chain cover gasket replacement pointers and tips please

    I'm in the process of changing the timing chain cover gasket and could use a few hints. Working on a 351W in a Mark III. Where do the dowl pins go, in the block or cover when installing? What about the gaskets, a little r t v and apply to the cover or the engine block? Any and all pointers are welcome, I need to get this back together tomorrow and road test a bit before a weekend trip.

    Thanks as always,

    Robert

  2. #2
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    What is your plan for the forward part of the pan gasket? Is the pan off too? I use a thin smear of rtv on both sides of the gasket. Not sure it matters which you initially glue it to. Be REAL careful you use the correct gasket as there are usually 3 types in the box.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    As Craig said there could be a couple of different gaskets so dry fit it on the cover first. Make sure it lines up with all the holes. I can't be certain but, I think a couple of the bolts go through into the water jacket and crankcase. Sealant on the threads of those is a good idea.

    HTH
    Norm

  4. #4
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    And just to add to the process; Make sure you slip on the front crank sleeve or damper before you tighten down the first few bolts of the cover. Failing to do so will cause your cover to ride high in it's mounting location and later cause an oil drip from the top of the cover seal. Once you have the seal centered, you can remove the damper to complete the install of the cover.

    You can ignore this advise IF you have the pan off for the installation of the timing cover. Upward pressure from a preinstalled pan will cause the cover to "lift" and not "center" the seal on the crank.

    Also, RTV in the corners, the junction of the timing cover, block and pan.

    Doc
    Last edited by Big Blocker; 09-08-2017 at 11:09 AM.
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  5. #5
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    I know that RTV has become a bit of a generic term, But if you have never used Permatex "Right Stuff", this would be a great place to try it out. It's the only thing I will use on an engine. I save the RTV to use on plumbing projects around the house.

  6. #6
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    Dowel pins are typically in the block. You may have to tap in with a mallet. If using new ones, pay close attention to the length of them, if too long they can keep the cover from seating properly. Somewhat shorter is ok, they're just for locating.

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