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Thread: Rear Brake fitment supplied with kit

  1. #1

    Rear Brake fitment supplied with kit

    007.JPGHas anyone run into this problem installing the rear brakes supplied with the hot rod kit (11.65"). The width of the pads and the width of the rotor add up to wider than the opening in the hat. With the pads installed, and the piston I believe screwed back as far as it can go ( they are brand new so I guess the piston stats back as far as it will go to begin with) the hat will not fit down over the rotor?????

  2. #2
    Looks like maybe the piston could retract a little further. Make sure the E-Brake is not blocking the retraction. Other than that check with FFR on pads being correct. Bleeder needs to be open also.

  3. #3
    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
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    The lager cobra rotors are thicker than the stock GT rotors even though the calipers are the same. They actually use different pads. The Cobra pads are thinner to allow for the thicker rotor. Maybe you have the wrong pads?
    Arrowhead's '33 Hot Rod Build Site:
    http://sites.google.com/site/arrowheadshotrodsite/Home

  4. #4
    It was a tight and precise fit. My Rotor/Caliper/Pad Combo was from a 94 SVT-R. Note it works better if you put the pads in place on the support bracket before you put the hat on. Just an aside comment. I recently went through an ordeal involving a bent/twisted axle tube on my 8.8 4 Link. I whined and moaned a lot about the failure but when I really got thinking about it I had recalled that it was really tight to put the brake pads on the side that twisted a couple of weeks before the failure. The pads seemed to drag. When we pulled the twisted assembly off I noticed that the bearing on the twisted side was in a bind. On disassembly I found the brake pads were very damaged on the outside. I am suspecting my axle was bent/bending/misaligned and that the problem fitting the brake shoe was an indication of a larger problem. An couple of easy things to check include the spot welds on each side of the carrier housing, there are four. Also if the axle tube is welded or just pressed in. The more serious but surest way to check is to pull the assembly, strip the guts out and pass a rod through it to ensure the assembly is straight. I think the guys that bought the units from FFR are okay. However, if you picked yours up from a junkyard...... ? Also, those caliper pistons twist and press, if you are just using a C Clamp it ain't enough. Also, use the clips that come with the brake pad replacement kit

    Pads Mounted:
    IMG_1798.jpgIMG_1799.jpg

    Broken Spot Welds and No Tube Welds:
    IMG_1575.jpgIMG_1574.jpg

    Fixed Spot Welds and Tube Welds
    IMG_1624.jpgIMG_1625.jpg
    Last edited by wrp; 09-12-2017 at 11:06 AM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arrowhead View Post
    The lager cobra rotors are thicker than the stock GT rotors even though the calipers are the same. They actually use different pads. The Cobra pads are thinner to allow for the thicker rotor. Maybe you have the wrong pads?
    Some of the Mustang combos use an 11 and a 13mm pad in each set. If you have two 13's in one caliper it won't fit over the rotor.
    IF you have the thicker rotor like my Cobra 13's you have to use T-bird turbo/super coupe pads. They have the same steel backer but the
    lining is a little thinner.
    HTH
    Dale Berry
    33HR with 13's all around
    Last edited by myjones; 09-12-2017 at 01:25 PM.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the info guys. I have rotated the piston cw until there was quite a bit of resistance, don't want to force it any further ( no C clamp). The rotor measures 1.035" thick and all 4 pads measure 0.685" thick (ea) seems to be no difference in the pads. I don't thick the e brake is making a difference, tried it moving. Also the bleeder is open. Possibly I do need different thickness pads, that would make sense, waiting to hear back from tech.

  7. #7
    Are your rotors slotted? What was the part number of the pads?

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