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Thread: My One Year Delay Is Now Over!

  1. #121
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Weendoggy & Rich GRSC,

    Glad you guys could put Bob's (McWho) mind at ease.

    Steve
    A 347 yes, block has to be "clearanced" but a 331 doesn't. Not sure if it puts his mind at ease, but I've been running my 331 (non-clearanced) for six years without issues, other than wanting more power. I see a 363 dart in the future.
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  2. #122
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    Dad, sorry about the problems with your engine. I'm sure you luck will turn around, sounds like plenty of people are willing to help out, and certainly if you were in My neighborhood I'd be doing the same.

    I've used this https://www.summitracing.com/oh/sear...e-block-filler to prevent leaks on an 0.060 over 289 with a leaky sleeve. It never leaked again and it's supposed to strengthen the block. regardless, it saved me a little money, since I had already bought the pistons and machine work for that overbore.

    Anyway, I built a SBF 331 for my F5 which needed slight clearancing using H beam rods in an early 302 block, YMMV on the clearancing of blocks.

    Now days with the prolific use of stroker kits, rod clearance always needs to be checked, which requires one extra step to mockup the assembly before final cleaning and assembly.

    Good luck!

    Scott

  3. #123

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megascott View Post
    Dad, sorry about the problems with your engine. I'm sure you luck will turn around, sounds like plenty of people are willing to help out, and certainly if you were in My neighborhood I'd be doing the same.

    I've used this https://www.summitracing.com/oh/sear...e-block-filler to prevent leaks on an 0.060 over 289 with a leaky sleeve. It never leaked again and it's supposed to strengthen the block. regardless, it saved me a little money, since I had already bought the pistons and machine work for that overbore.

    Anyway, I built a SBF 331 for my F5 which needed slight clearancing using H beam rods in an early 302 block, YMMV on the clearancing of blocks.

    Now days with the prolific use of stroker kits, rod clearance always needs to be checked, which requires one extra step to mockup the assembly before final cleaning and assembly.

    Good luck!

    Scott
    The new block (Dart SHP) came in earlier this week so now I waiting on my new roller cam and push rod set up to come in.

    https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk

    Since I'm spending money, I may as well upgrade and make a few more ponies.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-20-2017 at 10:47 AM.

  4. #124
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    "Since I'm spending money, I may as well upgrade and make a few more ponies."

    That sentence resonates with all us overachiever hot rodder types. That might even be the tag line for my build or maybe "if more is good much more has to be better".

    Rock on GDG, the car is looking' great!

  5. #125

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    "Since I'm spending money, I may as well upgrade and make a few more ponies."

    That sentence resonates with all us overachiever hot rodder types. That might even be the tag line for my build or maybe "if more is good much more has to be better".

    Rock on GDG, the car is looking' great!
    Never thought of it that way, but it is a quotable quote which does explain how we Hod Rodders are wired.

    I personally like your quote better than mine.

  6. #126
    Senior Member 42Bfast's Avatar
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    "Money can't buy happiness.
    But,....it can buy horsepower,....and that's pretty much the same thing!"

    Words relayed to me by an old sage gearhead.

  7. #127
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    If it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  8. #128

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Hey Gang,

    Our Beloved U.P.S. Man Showed Up With The Rest Of My Parts!
    That means we pull everything apart this weekend.
    Then it is off to the machine shop.

    Steve

  9. #129
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Hey Gang,

    Our Beloved U.P.S. Man Showed Up With The Rest Of My Parts!
    That means we pull everything apart this weekend.
    Then it is off to the machine shop.

    Steve
    Congratulations Steve!

    I, for one, am looking forward to LOTS of pictures & the more-than-occasional video.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  10. #130

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Congratulations Steve!

    I, for one, am looking forward to LOTS of pictures & the more-than-occasional video.


    John
    I'm so looooow tech that I always screw up the photos; however, I am going to do more YOUTUBE videos.

    Sorry John!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-26-2017 at 09:36 PM.

  11. #131
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Try Flickr for pictures. It took me a few tries but now I can take a cell phone pic and have it on here in about 4 minutes. I also understand that this forum's picture uploading process works pretty well. I use Flickr because this isn't the only forum I post on and it can be used anywhere.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  12. #132

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Hope This Sucker Comes Out As Easy As It Went In!

    Engine Installation:
    https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4

    Last Documented Drive:
    https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA

    What She Looks Like Today:
    https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk

    Wish Me Luck Gents, This Wrench Swinging Banker Is Going To Need It!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-29-2017 at 07:28 AM.

  13. #133

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Hey Gang,

    My pals Donny, Dave & Marius dropped by to keep me from boogering up any more fingers so without any drama, we pulled the engine and transmission today.

    https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k

    Marius got his first ride in a Factory Five and now wants to build either a 33 Hot Rod or 35 Truck.

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-04-2017 at 05:26 PM.

  14. #134
    Senior Member smithbks's Avatar
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    I knew he would be hooked if he got in one!
    Mk4 #8340, 351w/427, 3-link, Wilwood 4 piston rear brakes, 3.27 gear, TKO600, delivered June 18th, 2014

  15. #135
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    That looks way more convenient than an engine hoist. Best of luck getting this thing together Steve!!

  16. #136

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottiec View Post
    That looks way more convenient than an engine hoist. Best of luck getting this thing together Steve!!
    I do find it easier than using a regular engine hoist.
    Also, I plan to install an overhead I-Beam with traveler like my brother has so that the car does not have to move when pulling an engine.
    Just know that most homes are NOT designed to pull engines from the garage ceiling.

  17. #137
    mcwho's Avatar
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    The thought of pulling the engine and tranny out with the body on and freshly painted makes me nauseous. I hope you have a one time fix and a good outcome with that chevy engine. I am 19 years older than you and would need lots of "friends" to help me with that kind of task.
    Last edited by mcwho; 11-06-2017 at 12:06 PM.
    Baghdad Bob

    Complete Kit Delivered July 2010, serial @ 7287, Whitby Power Brakes, Whitby Tonneau, Power Steering w HEIDTS PS Valve, Hydralic clutch, 15" Wheels, BFG Tires, 331 stroker w Quick Fuel 650, RPM Heads, Air Gap Intake. IRS w 3.27, TKO-600. FFMETAL Firewall Forward, FFMETAL Dropped Battery Box in Trunk, Enlarged Passenger footbox, Breeze Cubby storage, Breeze Seat Brackets, Herbs Door Panels. Ford ruby red 12 coats.

  18. #138
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Hey Gang,

    My pals Donny, Dave & Marius dropped by to keep me from boogering up any more fingers so without any drama, we pulled the engine and transmission today.

    https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k

    Marius got his first ride in a Factory Five and now wants to build either a 33 Hot Rod or 35 Truck.

    Steve
    You guys made it look pretty easy! I hope the reassembly goes well, too!
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
    Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount

  19. #139

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Hey Gang,

    The new Dart SHP block is getting punched to 4.030" on Friday!
    After some consideration, we are probably going with a proper road racing style oil pan designed for the SHP block.
    The fancy pan is from Milodon, part number 31506.

    http://www.milodon.com/2012-Milodon-...Oil%20Pans.pdf

    I can't see cutting corners, since I want to carve corners, and oil is life's blood for all engines so it's time to pony up the money.
    The factor to spend the extra cash was related to an earlier thread about oil pans so what the heck, let's get a better pan.
    Besides, I've had a taste of 1/2 throttle Go-Kart Tire Spin and my old daily driver just can't cut the mustard like the MK-4.

    https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-07-2017 at 07:37 PM.

  20. #140
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    I've had a taste of 1/2 throttle Go-Kart Tire Spin and my old daily driver just can't cut the mustard like the MK-4.


    Made me laugh. The first thing I did once my chassis was assembled and at the go-cart stage is set the line lock and burn down the shop with tire smoke until my wife came out to ask me "how old are you?".

  21. #141

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    I can't see cutting corners, since I want to carve corners, and oil is life's blood for all engines so it's time to pony up the money.
    Steve
    I was lucky enough to go full dry sump on my last 383.. money was less of a thing back then Man, that was nice to run 15L of oil, dual remote filters and go as fast as you want on the track without a care..
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  22. #142
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Hey Gang,

    The new Dart SHP block is getting punched to 4.030" on Friday!
    After some consideration, we are probably going with a proper road racing style oil pan designed for the SHP block.
    The fancy pan is from Milodon, part number 31506.

    http://www.milodon.com/2012-Milodon-...Oil%20Pans.pdf

    I can't see cutting corners, since I want to carve corners, and oil is life's blood for all engines so it's time to pony up the money.
    The factor to spend the extra cash was related to an earlier thread about oil pans so what the heck, let's get a better pan.
    Besides, I've had a taste of 1/2 throttle Go-Kart Tire Spin and my old daily driver just can't cut the mustard like the MK-4.

    https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA

    Steve
    Steve,

    That's the same style pan that came on my engine. It sits at the perfect height with nothing hanging below the frame rails. Good choice!

    Dave
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
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  23. #143

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    The Naz Man,
    Being young at heart to me means that you can burn rubber at any age.
    My street in front of my house wears many black racing stripes and all are welcome to leave their mark.

    Da Road Racer,
    You've got me thinking about adding an oil accumulator since I'm running a sandwich adapter for my oil temp gauges.
    I've got an extra port that could be used to link in a 1 quart accumulator which could be a nice add on so: What-Cha-Think?

    Papa Dave
    When we set the engine we took great care to make sure that neither the pan nor the transmission hung below the frame rails.
    Now I just need to find the perfect pan, so a little more homework is needed before I pull that trigger.
    Dart strongly recommends running a standard volume & pressure SBC (Mellings-55) pump, but I'm already running a BBC (Mellings-77).
    They said that their "Bottom Up Primary Oiling" is more efficient that the standard SBC "Top Down / Camshaft First" layout.

    Hummmmmmm!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-08-2017 at 08:53 AM.

  24. #144
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Steve, I was thinking the same thing about that extra port on my sandwich adapter but thinking it would be good to have a 12VDC N/C valve that would keep oil under pressure captured in the accumulator when you shutoff the ignition switch. That will act as a pre-oiler when you turn the switch back on to start the car and as a normal reserve when the engine is running like they were designed for. If you add an accumulator, let us know how it works out.

  25. #145

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    As NAZ says, go for the accumulator!

    Even with dry sump it always bothered me that the engine still starts starved of oil. I lusted after an electric oil pump so I could prime the engine first, but the pressurized accumulator idea sounds cool.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  26. #146

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Hey Gents,

    Check out this pan and tell me what you think:


    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-31502

    It's a Circle Track "Claimer" pan that looks like a oil stock pan.

    It is designed for the Dart SHP Block, clears my Crank & H-beam Rods, seems to have good baffling, is shallow enough to be above the frame rails, plus holds 5 quarts of Erral, 6 PH-5 truck filter.

    Steve

    NOTE:
    "Erral" is how some fellows that live up in the North think we Southern Gentlemen pronounce "Oil"
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-08-2017 at 09:18 PM.

  27. #147
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    Never put a circle track pan on a road race car.

    Never put a "claimer pan" on an engine that's not subject to being claimed.


    JMHO

  28. #148

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike223 View Post
    Never put a circle track pan on a road race car.

    Never put a "claimer pan" on an engine that's not subject to being claimed.


    JMHO
    Mike,

    Did you look at the 360 degree view of the pan?

    Steve

  29. #149
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    i know you are trying to do an oil pan for your chevy but I am in the same boat on my ford. I am now trying to find a baffled pan so I dont have to concern myself anymore with the stock pickup and stock pan. I am trying to figure and justifly the cost and modifications so that I can get my engine together and on the dyno. I am now thinking I am going with the kevko pans as they are affordable and a true road race pan.

  30. #150
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    https://www.summitracing.com/search?...rd=CTR-15-250T

    Here's the one I'm using. Yep, they're proud of em -- just look at that price. But well made with baffling and trap doors to keep the oil around the pickup. Made for stroker motors like the 383 SBC, my sandwich oil cooler adapter fits and it's roughly the same depth as a stock pan (does not hang below my frame and the stock dipstick works). The extra capacity comes from the side wings. Made for carving corners not cutting costs but another option to look at if concerned about oil starvation when taking those highway on ramps at warp speed.

  31. #151

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    i know you are trying to do an oil pan for your Chevy but I am in the same boat on my Ford. I am now trying to find a baffled pan so I dont have to concern myself anymore with the stock pickup and stock pan. I am trying to figure and justifly the cost and modifications so that I can get my engine together and on the dyno. I am now thinking I am going with the kevko pans as they are affordable and a true road race pan.
    The big issue for me is the SHP block has a right hand dipstic and two piece rear seal so pan options are reduced.
    Then there's the clearance issues where my pan cannot exceed 8" in depth, but most go a tad lower.
    This one is a tad shallower, plus has an extended windage tray plus a slosh baffle below it like their stock replacement pan.
    While a Milodon stock preplacement pan will work, the baffling is limited.
    I'll check out Kevko to see what options they may have for a Dart SHP SBC.

  32. #152

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    https://www.summitracing.com/search?...rd=CTR-15-250T

    Here's the one I'm using. Yep, they're proud of em -- just look at that price. But well made with baffling and trap doors to keep the oil around the pickup. Made for stroker motors like the 383 SBC, my sandwich oil cooler adapter fits and it's roughly the same depth as a stock pan (does not hang below my frame and the stock dipstick works). The extra capacity comes from the side wings. Made for carving corners not cutting costs but another option to look at if concerned about oil starvation when taking those highway on ramps at warp speed.
    They've got one that works with the two piece seal.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-244m

    Looks like another viable option for sure.

  33. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Mike,

    Did you look at the 360 degree view of the pan?

    Steve

    Steve,

    The passenger side cutout for the pickup makes me a little nervous for (hard) right hand turns.

    There are many variables...

    Good luck,

    Mike

  34. #154
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    NOTE: "Erral" is how some fellows that live up in the North think we Southern Gentlemen pronounce "Oil"
    Steve,

    I thought you guys down south pronounced oil as "ohl"? Maybe that's just the guys from South Carolina.

    Dave
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

    Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
    Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
    Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread

  35. #155

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike223 View Post
    Steve,

    The passenger side cutout for the pickup makes me a little nervous for (hard) right hand turns.

    There are many variables...

    Good luck,

    Mike
    Mike,

    The Milodon 31502 doesn't have a side kick outs since it is intended for Hobby racers.

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/31502/10002/-1

    I will be using a center style pick up, not the one that sets back in the right rear of the pan.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-09-2017 at 08:03 AM.

  36. #156

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Steve,

    I thought you guys down south pronounced oil as "ohl"? Maybe that's just the guys from South Carolina.

    Dave
    Love It & You Know I've Got To Say Something Stupid To Lighten The Mood Of This Thread!
    Good luck on your build and can't wait to see your report on your 1st start.
    Know that when you get to drive it for the 1st time you will be amazed.

  37. #157

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    We pulled the engine apart today so we are heading to the Machine Shop tomorrow morning.

    The Chevy Cobra Is No More, But Will Be Resurrected As The Dark Side Dart Cobra Soon!

    Heck, I'm thinking about putting Vintage Mopar DART emblems on the side of the car or maybe the 383 Four Barrel fender emblems from the same era.

    Might be a perfect fit where the Powered By Ford Emblems are supposed to go above the louvers so these alternate emblems might just work since both will be true.

    Dart Emblem

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3505419

    383 Four Barrell Emblem
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oer-2579804

    Hummmmmmm?
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-09-2017 at 04:48 PM.

  38. #158
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    I like the idea of some alternate emblems.
    Check out billet badges.com They can custom make you any fender badge with whatever unique combination you want on it.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  39. #159
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    We pulled the engine apart today so we are heading to the Machine Shop tomorrow morning.

    The Chevy Cobra Is No More, But Will Be Resurrected As The Dark Side Dart Cobra Soon!

    Heck, I'm thinking about putting Vintage Mopar DART emblems on the side of the car or maybe the 383 Four Barrel fender emblems from the same era.

    Might be a perfect fit where the Powered By Ford Emblems are supposed to go above the louvers so these alternate emblems might just work since both will be true.

    Dart Emblem

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3505419

    383 Four Barrell Emblem
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oer-2579804

    Hummmmmmm?
    First you upset the Ford gods with one “those” engines in the Cobra. Now, you want to upset the Mopar gods by using their emblems to identify one of “those” engines. You must have balls the size of watermelons. You are really wanting to play with Karma once you get your car on the road. More power to you.��
    Last edited by Bobby Doug; 11-09-2017 at 06:34 PM. Reason: Fix text
    Doug
    FFR 7995
    347 SBF Prestige Mototsports, Moser 8.8 (3.31) 3 Link, TKO 600, Nitto 555s, 17" Halibrands, PS, AC, Heat, Color Redfire Pearl, with Wimbledon White Stripes

  40. #160
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Very clever badging Steve. Now adding custom engraved valve covers to that combo embossed with "Cobra Killer" would really stoke the flames.

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