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Thread: Instructions for Fortes hydraulic clutch kit

  1. #1
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    Instructions for Fortes hydraulic clutch kit

    I am installing Mike Forte's wilwood hydraulic clutch kit and it didn't come with instructions. I can figure out most but apparently there is some of the pushrod that gets cut off just like brakes but how much??? Is there a link for the instructions someone can send me?
    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Did you call Forte? Mike is extremely responsive and will answer his cell phone and provide help just about any time..

  3. #3
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    I don't have his cell plus it's late on east coast and didn't want to bother him late on sat night.
    It can wait til Monday just thinking there might be instructions so I can install this weekend.
    Thanks!

  4. #4
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    The pushrod that gets trimmed is for the slave cylinder. You want to trim it so that there is 1/8" - 1/4" free play with the pedal all the way up so that the clutch is not engaged. My pushrod ended up being just a hair short of 3” long without the end cap. If you screw up and cut the pushrod too short, don't fret; just make another one from a 5/16”-24 bolt (or whatever size bolt fits the rod end).

    Some things to watch for: The aluminum vanes on the transmission may interfere with the slave cylinder bracket (marked with blue Sharpie toward the right of the picture).

    IMG_2508 by jhsitton, on Flickr

    No problem; a few minutes of quality time on the grinding wheel will allow the bracket to fit into place.

    Second, you may get some interference between the flared side of the transmission and the flange of one or more bell housing mounting bolts. You can see the interference in the picture above near the thumb. Just grind the flange down.

    Third, the slave cylinder may not line up properly with the fork. See post #83 of edwardb's OUTSTANDING build log for tips on making spacers. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...ml#post3645465.

    Finally, after you get the thing together you may find the slave cylinder extends too far.

    IMG_2831 by jhsitton, on Flickr

    Over time, the slave cylinder settles back into position.

    IMG_2852 by jhsitton, on Flickr

    In my case, I believe what happened is that when I filled the system from the slave bleeder, I took up all the play with excess fluid. Then, when I actuated the clutch, the slave took an extra “gulp” of fluid which caused it to hyperextend. Working the clutch slowly back and forth a couple of hundred times pushed the excess fluid up into the reservoir where it belongs, and travel returned to normal.

    If the excessive travel problem persists you can change out the master cylinder to a larger one. See post #255 of edwardb's other OUTSTANDING build log. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...ml#post5385385

    Cheers,


    John
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 10-01-2017 at 08:31 AM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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