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Thread: cooling

  1. #1
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    cooling

    I am having an issue with my cooling.... The gauge was all over the place... I got the air out of the line as much as i could... multiple cooling staging with start and stop/cool down.... So I am at the point now where it stopped bouncing... I was rocking 70c... then after a couple of min it bounced up to 140c..... and stayed there... I shut the car off... is there still air in the lines??? Below is my setup... it should be able to push all the air out... I have done 4 rounds of start and stop with the cap off... should i keep going??? I just dont want to kill the engine...

    IMG_20171005_175954[1] by edward brian, on Flickr

  2. #2
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    1. Do you keep having to add water?
    2. Are you sure that your gauge and wiring is OK?
    3. Is your thermostat opening? Does the water start to flow? Did you test it (pot, water, stove), before you installed that finely crafted piece of Chinese manufacturing?

  3. #3
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    By "cap off" I'm assuming you mean the overflow tank, correct? 'Cuz after you fill it, the radiator cap should remain in place and any additional coolant should be sucked up from the overflow tank.

    Also, do you have a heater? And where is your coolant temperature sensor located?

    As a point of reference, I've never seen more than 90* on my temperature gauge even when filling. I have a heater, and my CTS is located in the thermostat housing (so that my temperature reads low until the thermostat opens).


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
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    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post
    1. Do you keep having to add water?
    2. Are you sure that your gauge and wiring is OK?
    3. Is your thermostat opening? Does the water start to flow? Did you test it (pot, water, stove), before you installed that finely crafted piece of Chinese manufacturing?
    Yes.i was adding water...
    How do you test the thermostat??? I don't know if it.is opening.....
    I don't have a heater... The temp sensor is on the intake manifold on the driver front side....

  5. #5
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    And also... This is only the second time it.is happening, but I think this is timing related... The car stutters when I shut it off...

  6. #6
    bobl's Avatar
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    140 Celsius is 284 Fahrenheit, which is way too hot and can cause damage very quickly.
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Holley HP ECU, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 4.10 gears, A/C, PS, PB Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  7. #7
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    By "cap off" I'm assuming you mean the overflow tank, correct? 'Cuz after you fill it, the radiator cap should remain in place and any additional coolant should be sucked up from the overflow tank.....
    John
    Please clarify John's question.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  8. #8
    Richard Oben's Avatar
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    Take sensor out fill with water until it comes out sensor hole. Fill tank and run. Should burp this way the easiest. HTH, R.
    Richard Oben FFR builder www.northracecars.com

    Need help finishing your project we can help here or at your shop.

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  9. #9
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by awd-turbo View Post
    ...I don't have a heater... The temp sensor is on the intake manifold on the driver front side....
    If you're adding coolant to the filler cap you've definitely still got air in the system. You need to add coolant at the overflow tank and let the engine suck it up as it cools. This is the first step.

    Quote Originally Posted by awd-turbo View Post
    How do you test the thermostat??? I don't know if it.is opening.....
    To test the thermostat, drain the coolant from the engine & remove the thermostat & its housing. Pay attention to which way the long end of the thermostat is pointing so you can reinstall it correctly after the test! Put the (cold) thermostat in a pot of water on the stove & turn on the heat. It should open at 80*C (176*F), or whatever temperature thermostat it is; use a thermometer to verify the water temperature. If the water is boiling and the thermostat doesn't open, it's failed. If it passes - and you're happy with the temperature at which it opens - reinstall it in the housing & put everything back together. [NOTE: I go with no paper gasket and a liberal dose of Permatex Right Stuff to seal the thermostat housing to its mounting surface.] When you refill the cooling system do as Richard says & take the temperature sensor out of its fitting; this gives the air an outlet & minimizes the air pockets.

    Quote Originally Posted by awd-turbo View Post
    ...I don't have a heater... The temp sensor is on the intake manifold on the driver front side....
    OK; that eliminates the possibility of an air pocket in your heater and/or associated hoses. Also, your temperature sensor is in the right place to give you accurate readings from the time you turn the key.

    Cheers,


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    If you're adding coolant to the filler cap you've definitely still got air in the system. You need to add coolant at the overflow tank and let the engine suck it up as it cools. This is the first step.



    To test the thermostat, drain the coolant from the engine & remove the thermostat & its housing. Pay attention to which way the long end of the thermostat is pointing so you can reinstall it correctly after the test! Put the (cold) thermostat in a pot of water on the stove & turn on the heat. It should open at 80*C (176*F), or whatever temperature thermostat it is; use a thermometer to verify the water temperature. If the water is boiling and the thermostat doesn't open, it's failed. If it passes - and you're happy with the temperature at which it opens - reinstall it in the housing & put everything back together. [NOTE: I go with no paper gasket and a liberal dose of Permatex Right Stuff to seal the thermostat housing to its mounting surface.] When you refill the cooling system do as Richard says & take the temperature sensor out of its fitting; this gives the air an outlet & minimizes the air pockets.



    OK; that eliminates the possibility of an air pocket in your heater and/or associated hoses. Also, your temperature sensor is in the right place to give you accurate readings from the time you turn the key.

    Cheers,


    John
    ok.... I think it is air pockets...there can be no way that the engine starts and with in 1:30 sec the car is at 140c.. it literally that fast... Ill pull the sensor and fill it with water/mix... I think the thermostat is working, the bottom hose of the radiator is hot. So coolant should be flowing...

    John, the car when I shut it off, stutters some.. it has only done it twice... Is that a timing issue? edit: i just read it could be cause the engine is hot... hummmmm
    Last edited by awd-turbo; 10-06-2017 at 08:42 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Please clarify John's question.
    No i was leaving the radiator cap off. I have done this with my old wrx every time i swapped out fluid... I know it is a different setup, but I thought it should be similar??

  12. #12
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    I always test thermostats as John described.

    However, with it in the car, just leave the cap off and run the engine. Watch in the filler hole. When the temp comes up, IF the thermostat opens, you will easily see the water start to flow.

    I replaced my radiator and I had to add just a tiny bit of water, a couple ounces, five or six times.

  13. #13
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by awd-turbo View Post
    ok.... I think it is air pockets...there can be no way that the engine starts and with in 1:30 sec the car is at 140c.. it literally that fast... Ill pull the sensor and fill it with water/mix... I think the thermostat is working, the bottom hose of the radiator is hot. So coolant should be flowing...

    John, the car when I shut it off, stutters some.. it has only done it twice... Is that a timing issue? edit: i just read it could be cause the engine is hot... hummmmm
    If your engine is as new as it looks, I'm inclined to agree that the thermostat is probably good . Though it does happen, it's relatively rare for a thermostat to be bad out of the box.

    I have no experience with a stutter on shut off, so can't comment.

    Good luck, and let us know what you find out.


    John

    P.S. Avalanche: that's pretty clever to observe the water flow.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  14. #14
    Senior Member seagull81's Avatar
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    If you think you aren't getting all the air out you might want to try this tool. A friend used one and it is pretty cool.
    http://www.toolplanet.com/product/Va...SABEgILzvD_BwE
    Steve
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    FFR3542K, 347 C.I., EFI, T-5, 3-Link, Miata Front Sway Bar, Red with White Stripes

  15. #15
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    Saga continues.... But I have found the issue... So while I was digging trying to figure out how the coolant is not circulating or why it is 140c I stopped looking at the obvious.... The wire loom had come off the connecting bracket holding it up away from everything, and it had fallen onto the headers... It melted the loom and the wires for the temp sensor... Doooohhhh So i ordered a new wire yesterday from speedhut..

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