Intercity

Visit our community sponsor

Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: MK-4 clutch replacement

  1. #1

    MK-4 clutch replacement

    I plan to replace the Ram clutch with a lighter duty clutch , I don't plan to pull the engine. Has anybody else replaced a clutch in an MK-4 from the bottom?

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,646
    Yes, it can be done. I personally haven't done it, but have read multiple forum posts where it has. Not fun apparently, and if you have a lift, way easier. Just out of curiosity though, why are you replacing the Ram clutch? Lots of builders use those successfully. Effort too high maybe? There are ways to address that without replacing the clutch. But these cars have a somewhat heavy clutch pedal even with a pretty light clutch, so there's only so much you can do.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  3. #3
    Moderator
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Montville,NJ
    Posts
    499
    I have a RAM clutch and find the effort quite easy. Use a high quality clutch cable (NOT the FFR one) and FORTE's clutch effort reducer. At least try this route prior to pulling the trans.

    http://www.fortesparts.com/clutches-...effort-reducer

    Olli

  4. #4
    Thank you for your comments, I installed the Forte pressure reducer and it helped a little, I plan to install a factory Mustang clutch. I don't have a lift but I do have a transmission jack.

  5. #5
    I have another question, when the clutch is disengaged ,the clutch arm is almost hitting the front of the access hole in the bellhousing, is that normal?

  6. #6
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,646
    So it does sound like pedal effort is your main issue. IMO you may be disappointed even changing to a factory Mustang clutch. By nature, these have a relatively heavy pedal as I mentioned already. Especially if you're used to something else that's much lighter. I was very surprised, for example, when driving a new Mustang GT, how light the clutch was compared to my Roadsters. They're spring assisted, plus use a hydraulic throw-out bearing. Neither of which is common for our builds.

    What cable do you have? As already mentioned, that can make a big difference. You might also consider switching to a hydraulic setup. That might make things a bit lighter, but no guarantee. In my experience the clutch shouldn't be almost hitting the front of the access hole. Sounds like your pivot isn't adjusted right. The clutch arm shouldn't be too much past perpendicular to the driveline with the pedal down. You're losing mechanical advantage in that case, which would increase effort. Unfortunately, that's a tear down to fix as well.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  7. #7
    This is great information, I was planning on ordering an adjustable pivot, I didn't even think about mechanical advantage difference of changing the fulcrum.

  8. #8
    Administrator 65 Cobra Dude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Port Charlotte, FL
    Posts
    666
    I just finished replacing the clutch in my MKIV. If you have a removable tunnel cover, it will be easier. You will definitely have to remove the shifter (4 bolts) because it hits the cross bar. Make sure you put a jack or jack stand under the engine when you pull the tranny. My sequence was:

    Remove tunnel cover
    remove shifter (4 bolts)
    disconnect neutral safety switch, reverse lights and speedo
    remove 4 drivehaft bolts and driveshaft
    put jack under oil pan and jack up a bit
    disconnect clutch cable or hydraulic clutch
    unbolt and pull out rubber tranny mount
    pull out tranny triangle bolts (frame mount with 4 bolts)
    remove 4 bolts holding tranny to bell housing
    drop jack a little bit to lower rear of engine
    remove tranny
    remove clutch fork and bell housing
    remove and replace clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing
    check pilot bearing while there and put a little grease in it
    Reverse disassembly... using clutch alignment tool
    Adjust clutch pedal for about 1 - 2 inches of play before engaging
    Make sure to use loctite on driveshaft bolts

    Henry

  9. #9
    Thank you 65 Cobra Dude, did you have to replace your flywheel or get it refaced?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Stewart Transport

Visit our community sponsor