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Thread: Fitech with ZERO rpm on handheld - Won't deliver fuel

  1. #1
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    Fitech with ZERO rpm on handheld - Won't deliver fuel

    Yesterday I was trying to get my car running again, and am having trouble getting a rpm signal to the fitech.

    My blue fitech wire is on the coil negative post, and I'm getting spark to the distributor. White fitech wire is getting voltage during start. I have a summit ready to run distributor with the summit recommended coil.
    It will burn the prime shot, but I can see that no other gas is going into the barrels when turning the key.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1kzBhZrdv4
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  2. #2
    Senior Member John4337's Avatar
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    Dave, my MSD dizzy has a tach output wire that feeds signal to my FiTech, maybe an option if yours has one

    Good luck,

    John
    FFR #7388 - Mk 4 Complete Kit w/ IRS, Ordered 10/21/10, Delivered 12/8/10. 302 with FiTech and Under Car Exhaust, Heat & A/C, Rod Top. Hard top and shop built side curtains added 2023.

  3. #3
    bobl's Avatar
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    Seeing your other thread about the hot alternator brings a question to my mind. Is the battery fully charged? During cranking the voltage may be dropping too low for the ecu to function properly.
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Holley HP ECU, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 4.10 gears, A/C, PS, PB Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  4. #4
    Jacob's Avatar
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    Facebook has a Fitech page that is chock full of info on the system and different issues with fixes. You may want to try that?
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
    T5
    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobl View Post
    Seeing your other thread about the hot alternator brings a question to my mind. Is the battery fully charged? During cranking the voltage may be dropping too low for the ecu to function properly.
    Battery is fully charged with charger hooked up while turning over.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob View Post
    Facebook has a Fitech page that is chock full of info on the system and different issues with fixes. You may want to try that?
    Fitech FB Group says that they thinks that the ecu is dead.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  6. #6
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    After some testing with Fitech Technical Support, I'm sending it back in for ECU repair. I'm actually relieved because I've been pulling my hair trying to find the solution on my own. Hopefully, when I get it back I'll be ready for a gokart (silver lining).
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  7. #7
    Senior Member Lowrod's Avatar
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    Keep us up to date, I’m using a fitech unit and hope all goes well with it.

  8. #8
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Hi Dave,

    Sorry for your bad luck. It would be interesting to find out what caused the ECU to fail.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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