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Thread: 4eat and related parts

  1. #1
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    4eat and related parts

    hello everyone, I am looking to trade some parts. I need an automatic transmission from your donor and the associated parts. I have a 5mt that has already been modified and I was hoping we can make a swap. I am changing a half built 818s that had a 2006 donor to an automatic.

    I believe i'll need the 4eat, TCU, guage cluster , shifter and pedals. Anything I am missing? Anyone have any of these parts laying around taking up space.

    Brett

  2. #2
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    My donor car is automatic and I'd love to swap parts. Not sure how to do it from Canada and the car is still fully together right now. Ideas?

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    I'm doing a Automatic too. I found I needed a new bulkhead harness cuz I was going from manual to automatic. I was also told the ecu is slightly different too. If you're going to use ABS you'll need an ABS pump setup for an automatic transmission. Why do you need a new gauge cluster? What additional or different functionality do you need compared to a cluster used in a manual setup? I'm learning as we go too.

    Glenn

  4. #4
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    I assume the clusters are different because on automatic it has the gear identifier in the gauge cluster I think you are number 3 with an automatic, behind aloha and BN, pretty sure ecu can be reflashed as bobncincy went from auto to manual and just reflashed. i wasn't planning on running ABS. How about you?

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett33 View Post
    I assume the clusters are different because on automatic it has the gear identifier in the gauge cluster I think you are number 3 with an automatic, behind aloha and BN, pretty sure ecu can be reflashed as bobncincy went from auto to manual and just reflashed. i wasn't planning on running ABS. How about you?
    Like brett said, I started with an automatic forester xt and put a 5mt on it.
    I made the necessary wiring mod to tell the ecu it was a MT. Then flashed o4 STI MT data into the ECU. My cluster left side gauge has P R N D 3 2 1 on it but they are not wire to anything.
    Bob

    wiper motor.jpg
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the reply. I'm planning on using ABS so need to pick up a ABS pump but see they are reasonably priced on many sites.

    I'm waiting on my automatic bulkhead harness, ecu, and TCU. Iwire will be making up a complete wiring harness.

    I need to check out cluster for the PRNDL

  7. #7
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    Well you are certainly leading the way, My kit has an iwire harness now and i will probably be sending it back to them to modify for auto and maybe a few other options. So thank you! Where are you located Grathke?

  8. #8
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    I am in West Palm Beach FL. I'm not really leading the way yet as I've not even ordered my kit yet but will shortly. I have a pallet of parts from Wayne Presely who already prepared the back of the transmission.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Like brett said, I started with an automatic forester xt and put a 5mt on it.
    I made the necessary wiring mod to tell the ecu it was a MT. Then flashed o4 STI MT data into the ECU. My cluster left side gauge has P R N D 3 2 1 on it but they are not wire to anything.
    Bob

    wiper motor.jpg
    Hi Bob,

    I'd be interested in more details on the effort needed to change from an AT donor to MT build. Is there a source for info on this? Also, did you keep ABS? Any issues with that?
    Thanks!

  10. #10
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CdnCarNut View Post
    Hi Bob,

    I'd be interested in more details on the effort needed to change from an AT donor to MT build. Is there a source for info on this? Also, did you keep ABS? Any issues with that?
    Thanks!
    Just make a few wiring changes by comparing the schematics of the AT and MT vehicle.
    I do not have ABS. The wiring for the ABS was a pretty stand a loan system. Should not be an issue using it. Others have.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  11. #11
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    Thanks Bob! I saw your reply in my other post too. This could be a long, slow process for me due to other priorities, but is a journey I have been wanting to make for many years.

  12. #12
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    A lot has happened since my last post. I have my 818S, and have the automatic transmission installed. I had to make a few modifications because of the auto trans sump raising the engine/trans up at the rear which tilts the engine forward even more. We verified the 'normal' FFR tilt is about 3.5 to 4 degrees which was verified by FFR. The engine / trans ended up being tilted forward a bit over 5 degrees. Too much for my thinking.

    I made 2 motor mount risers out of 1.5" X 4" rectangular tubing. This raised the engine and I slid it forward about 3/4" which made the axle half shafts more in line with the trans output. After the engine was bolted down and attacked to a mount at the rear, the tilt was reduced to 3 degrees. The only issue was the shock tower cross brace was too close to the exhaust, so I cut out a section and welded in a piece of angle. I also 'laid' the intercooler down a bit so it would fit under the desk lid.

    If I do a second build or end up rethinking this. I'd opt for cutting the frame at the back so the trans sump pan could be lowered which would reduce the tilt. Then everything else would fit as designed. Who knows, I may even go back and do this before it is all over. The next step is to run the shift cable. The FFR cable is too short. I could either get a longer cable for this, OR run it directly without looping at the front and back. This would make for a much much shorter cable. In any case, I'm looking into SeaStar Extremem cables as I like their design.

    http://www.seastarsolutions.com/prod...xtreme-cables/

    Amazon has their universal cables, 18' long for $46

    https://www.amazon.com/SeaStar-CCX63...ble&th=1&psc=1

    Glenn

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