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Thread: Vintage looking paint question

  1. #1
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    Vintage looking paint question

    The 289 i'm building will be a tribute to CSX2323. I've been looking through a lot of old photos for ideas on my build. I was wondering how i would go about getting the final paint to have a vintage feel? I don't want it to have a shine and "pop" in the finish, but more of a racecar feel. Any thoughts on how to get this look? Single stage paint? A different type of clear?

    A couple of pictures of CSX2323





    FFR8551 289 FIA build in progress.

  2. #2
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Single stage would be period-correct, but you can still achieve a vintage feel to the paint by leaving a bit of orange peel in the clear. That said, the originals were painted with lacquer, so they were actually sanded pretty smooth.

    One key difference would be to watch the metallic content - both quantity and size of the metal flake. You're looking for more of an irridescent look - not bass boat.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    I think Gumball nailed it. If you can find someone to hand paint the numbers, that would be nice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post
    I think Gumball nailed it. If you can find someone to hand paint the numbers, that would be nice.
    I agree. I thought the hand painted numbers were cool. Here is a photo of one I saw in the Shelby American Collection in Boulder, CO

    20170408_103952 by D. R., on Flickr
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
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    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Are there any semi-gloss clears available? Also using a solid color w/o a clear would be more correct. I am not even sure that colors like silver had a second coat of clear. I think even they were single stage. Da bat??? I do remember thta my brother painted his MGA in a metallic green that was similar to our eyes to BRG. It had an extremely fine metallic, and not a lot of it, and there was definitely no clear coat.
    Last edited by CraigS; 10-24-2017 at 06:04 AM.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
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    Viking Blue here.

    Kyle

    Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017. Sold in 08/2018 and totally regret it.

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    You could do a single stage with a flattening agent. When it's dry (a week) you can actually polish the sides to give them a little more shine and leave the top flat. If you go metallic you need to stick with colors from the mid to late 60's....solid colors, not so much...da bat

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    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
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    I think it would be pretty cool to even have it banged up a little. Have some tire scuff marks on the side, even create some dents by reforming the fiberglass. A really neat look would be to have paint scratched off, but revealing a faux aluminum body. Hey, "rubbin's racin'"

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    Quote Originally Posted by KDubU View Post
    Viking Blue here.

    Beautiful!
    FFR8551 289 FIA build in progress.

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    Quote Originally Posted by j.miller View Post
    You could do a single stage with a flattening agent. When it's dry (a week) you can actually polish the sides to give them a little more shine and leave the top flat. If you go metallic you need to stick with colors from the mid to late 60's....solid colors, not so much...da bat
    Good info, thanks Bat!
    FFR8551 289 FIA build in progress.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arrowhead View Post
    I think it would be pretty cool to even have it banged up a little. Have some tire scuff marks on the side, even create some dents by reforming the fiberglass. A really neat look would be to have paint scratched off, but revealing a faux aluminum body. Hey, "rubbin's racin'"
    It would be neat, but i don't want to go that far on mine!
    FFR8551 289 FIA build in progress.

  12. #12
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arrowhead View Post
    I think it would be pretty cool to even have it banged up a little. Have some tire scuff marks on the side, even create some dents by reforming the fiberglass. A really neat look would be to have paint scratched off, but revealing a faux aluminum body. Hey, "rubbin's racin'"
    Quote Originally Posted by Bguetter View Post
    It would be neat, but i don't want to go that far on mine!
    Somebody will.........or maybe already is..........

    Jeff

  13. #13
    Senior Member GThompson's Avatar
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    I'm building a Coupe to look like CSX2299, #5 like the winning '64 Le Mans car. Something I thought about was finding a way to put a silver coating on the body in the areas that would get chipped first like the front of the nose, behind the wheel arches, top of the windshield, so that when the car starts getting stone chips the silver would show through looking like an aluminum body. But I thought paint would stick to paint so the only way I think it would work is if Metal Morphous did their aluminizing trick to the body first. Then the cost side snuck in and I started thinking it would wind up being a $20k paint job, all so it looks like an old race car after the stone chips start happening. Instead I'm planning on getting a lower cost paint job that will look more like a race car and will touch up the future stone chips with silver. Mine will be Viking blue with narrow Wimbledon white stripes and the #5 hand-painted on, should look pretty cool. The other thing I'm doing is focusing on the smaller details like the shape of the vent holes on the sides of the nose (all 6 had similar holes but they were all a bit different, had different radius corners, one even had a full arc at the top), turkey pan around the carbs under the nose, the lack of stripes under the radiator opening on the nose and in the back just behind the fuel tank, painting over the rivets that hold the spoiler on the back and the scoops ahead of the windshield (the cars were painted after most events so the only rivets that didn't get painted were the ones around the hatch plexiglass), lots of details like that.

    The choices are all up to the builder!
    George T

    Type 65 Coupe #338, Picked Up 4-Aug-07, Roller on 8-Mar-09, 1st start 8-Sep-13, 1st Autocross 7-Oct-18, finished sanding & sprayed paint myself 6-Nov-21, IRS/LCA/Koni/traditional gages/Kirkey/pin-drive rear width/15" Torq-Thrust Ds/44IDFs/Brodix ST5.0R heads/Eagle internal-balance crankshaft/oil pan by Armando/home-made turkey pan/S-10 mid-shift T5

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