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Thread: 1999 Mustang GT donor

  1. #1
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    1999 Mustang GT donor

    I've had my eye on building a roadster for years, and had a 1999 Mustang GT as a daily drive up until last Friday. While sitting at a red light I got plowed into by another motorist. Insurance is considering the car a total loss. Donor-wise it's only side body and rear axle damage, so it's still in ok shape for a donor. The problem is I'm not really sure I'm ready yet time-wise or financially to dive into the build. I'm considering getting hold of the manual and doing the donor tear down and storing the parts for a few years.

    How helpful is it to keep the donor around during the build? For missed parts or anything else?

    Would I be better off just selling off this car and either going non-donor or jumping on a donor and kit when i'm ready? If anyone is looking for a donor near or in Illinois (far west burbs of Chicago) I could probably be talked into letting it go really cheap. It's a high mileage GT, about 200k but the engine and trans still run fine. Suspension parts are all brand new, literally less than 1000 miles on the control arm bushings, steering rack, tie rods, ball joints, even new rotors brakes and calipers.

    Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

  2. #2
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Just my opinion, but I don't think I would put a 200K mile motor in my newly built roadster without a serious amount of engine overhaul work. (I guarantee that you will not want to pull the engine back out to have it overhauled after you put it in your car!!) If you are not sure you are ready financially, think that one over seriously. "Project creep" is a common disease, and costs tend to only go up above budget and plan. You certainly don't want to invest that much money into a kit and then have the frustration of not having the time to finish it and having to sell it at a serious loss. Do you have the space and desire to hold on to these parts for several years? Will your significant other become frustrated with the clutter? Keeping the donor around doubles the square footage you will need for the project. Only you can make the right choice for you. It sort of depends upon how much have to pay to keep it, and how much you are willing to do your own salvage. Anything you don't use, you have to sell or dispose of. Pretty time consuming. My vote would be to jump on a lower mileage donor and kit when you know you are sure you are ready. Buying the manual is cheap, and fun to read regardless of whether you decide to jump into the pool. But then that's just my opinion, what do I know!! There are many who are much wiser than me. I am pretty sure you will hear from them shortly. We are not lacking in opinions!! Best of luck with your decision. I do hope you are physically Ok!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  3. #3

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    1. Definitely get the manual, then read it a few times, then decide if the parts that you have are good enough to use on your dream car.
    2. Also, 200,000 miles doesn't necessarily scare me, nor does storing parts, just ask my wife and she'll tell some stories.
    3. It just depends on who has been doing the maintenance and if the parts make sense to refurbish and use.
    4. As for me, that truck is looking pretty sweet so if I do a donor build, then it will likely have more that few parts from my daily driver:

    https://youtu.be/svZX2BMSDEs
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-03-2017 at 08:43 PM.

  4. #4
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Two things to consider when thinking about using a donor car. First, is it in good shape? You being the owner, your know the history. Second - Cost vs vehicle value. Yes, a donor car reduces the overall build cost. The question you need to ask yourself, how long are you planning to keep it? What will it be worth if/when you want to sell it? As a potential buyer, would I want a brand new car with 20 year old parts? I wouldn't, but that's me. If you plan to keep it forever, not a problem.
    FYI... Buying a new 5.0 liter Coyote engine (Plus ECU & wiring harness, alternator, started, engine cover and modified oil pan), TKO600 Trans, Quik Time Scatter Shield, clutch-pressure plate and straight axle rear end, your looking at $15k.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 11-17-2017 at 06:55 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
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    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  5. #5
    Director of R&D, FFR Jim Schenck's Avatar
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    I have always thought you can build a great bang for the buck kind of car using a 99-04 GT donor and an F150 coyote takeout. If you have the rear end and trans freshened up and then replace the front hubs then you should feel pretty good about the longevity of the parts. You would have to get the coyote controls pack, coyote headers, and use a non-donor chassis harness and gauges, but otherwise most everything else can come straight from the donor. (some years the flywheel will interchange and some will not but otherwise the coyote will bolt right up to the 3650 5 speed) Its not quite as inexpensive as the pure donor route but you avoid the complexity of the oem wiring and end up much closer to 400hp than 265 as those engines sure seem to be underrated in the trucks.
    Jim Schenck
    Factory Five Racing

  6. #6
    BTHWarrior's Avatar
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    I am using a 2001 GT as my donor and it is a lot of work stripping the donor of the parts you need. Then you will have to clean, paint and restore them so they will look new and function properly on you new chassis and body. You will save some money but overall you will spend more time on this build. Your build plan will also change during the build after you see all the build threads on this forum. Get a manual like others have suggested so you will have an idea of what you will be committed to do using a donor.

  7. #7
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    I'd get rid of it. Why screw around w/ storing something that is so common and widely available? Or part it out now and save the $ for your FFR build. All the parts are easily obtained later as needed.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  8. #8

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    "The problem is I'm not really sure I'm ready yet time-wise or financially to dive into the build."

    I have no comments on the question about a donor car, but I can say from firsthand experience that trying to do this when you really don't have the time or money is a pretty forgettable scenario. As for the time part, google "Fail Fail Fail Type 65," or words to that effect, which will bring up a candid blogger's comments about trying to build when he really didn't have the time. I've lived through that as well, although with a separate shop I've always had the luxury of not having to trip over the car on way out the door every morning. As for the money, a three-year hiatus from the private sector and other personal decisions brought parts acquisition to a screeching halt, and without really being financially ready you can find yourself (as I did) unable to substantially move forward without either using credit, taking money out of a retirement account, etc. - all of which are of course horrible ways to pay for a toy!

    Hopefully this doesn't come across as negative, off-topic, or unsolicited, pedantic advice. The comments about time and money really resonated with me and I thought I would share a relevant experience. The build is one absolutely of the best things I've ever done, and I don't regret a single dollar or second of time I've spent on it. But lack of time and money at various points has really slowed me down.
    Last edited by Jacob McCrea; 11-05-2017 at 05:21 PM.

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