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Thread: Throttle Pedal Stop

  1. #1

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    Throttle Pedal Stop

    What have some of you come up with for the throttle pedal stop to ensure you dont exceed the maximum and put the system into limp mode? I need to do something this winter.

    Ideas on ensuring that i get full pedal travel and throttle body operation? (accessport throttle position gauge?)

  2. #2
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    Mine is very simple, welded a 2" fender washer to top of 1/4 bolt. Drilled a hole in the firewall add jam nut, fender washer on each side and a nut. I will see if I can get a picture tonight and will post. It is adjustable and works great. I have a cable operated throttlebody not DBW but don't see why it won't work for either.

  3. #3
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    I need to tack a washer under the head of the bolt to increase the area to ensure no hang-ups, but it worked for a last minute fab job.

    IMG_20171109_181027.jpg

    When it comes to racing drivers not breaking things by pressing too hard, not even I trust me.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    I used a 3/8" elevator bolt.
    Bobs_pedal_ stops.jpg
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  5. #5

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    How did you guys go ensuring that you had full 0%-100% usage of the throttle travel?

  6. #6
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    Push the pedal down lightly by hand until it stops. That should be 100%. Back your screw of choice out until it just touches the backside of the pedal. Release pedal. Without moving the screw, tighten your jam nut.

    You can then remove the engine cover and intake and check that with the pedal pressed down all the way you can't move the throttle plate any more open. If you have a cable throttle just try and rotate the cam the cable attached to on the throttle body.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    How did you guys go ensuring that you had full 0%-100% usage of the throttle travel?
    I have an app on my phone (BTSSM) that reads the throttle position sensor. Bottom Right.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  8. #8
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    After mounting the cable and thinking when I’m in a situation and the adrenaline rush might kick in there is no way this cable will handle the stresses of my foot standing on the throttle.
    This 1” tubing is a positive stop, the throttle cable adjusted to 100% using romraider software to look at the actual throttle position. Some welding required!
    .922720A5-468B-49E5-83A3-D602D8613ADA.jpeg

  9. #9

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    It has only happened a handful of times in the last 1800 miles but it definitely happens at the worse possible time, resulting in limp mode.

    Does anyone know what throttle position results in a fault? Is it best to set it at 98% to account for margin of error?

  10. #10
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    It has only happened a handful of times in the last 1800 miles but it definitely happens at the worse possible time, resulting in limp mode.

    Does anyone know what throttle position results in a fault? Is it best to set it at 98% to account for margin of error?
    I set my stop at 102 -103% (100% = 4.5 volts)
    I think the fault is at 110% but I'm not sure.
    No limp faults for last 2 years.
    Note: This is only a problem with DBW (Drive by wire) cars.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  11. #11
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    The limp fault is a dbw only issue, but you should still have a pedal stop in a cable car. It's incredible easy to bend or stretch something in the heat of the moment, or even just taking an empty on-ramp.

  12. #12
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    Sounds like you have your solution. Here is an example for the cable operated TB 82E597BE-901F-49CB-8457-09264D6E1579.jpeg
    Last edited by Mitch Wright; 11-16-2017 at 09:33 AM.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    I made a simple pedal stop that also serves as a pedal stop for the clutch and brake pedals.



    A single 3/4" square tube in just the right place makes a perfect clutch / accelerator pedal stop. The accelerator pedal stop has a bolt screwed into a rivnut to allow for fine tuning the pedal travel. The brake pedal does not come close to the stop but the clutch pedal contacts the stop when the clutch is fully engaged. Nice for when you are trying to shift fast, you get a positive stop.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  14. #14

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    Thanks for the ideas!

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