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Thread: double flare brake line question

  1. #1
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    double flare brake line question

    Quick technical question.

    For the clutch line i had to cut the line short and put in a double flare for it to be the correct length.

    I did not have any problems with the factory flares or any of the connections. This connection i made myself is not sealing. The flared bit is not large enough to seat down into the supplied purple adapter. All tightened up brake line just wiggles back and forth because it is not large enough to be clamped in.

    This seem like a very noob question but has anyone encountered this?

    Thank you

    IMG_2253.jpg

  2. #2
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Which tool did you use to make the flare? Some of the cheap ones can be hit or miss. Eastwood makes a very nice flare tool but is kinda pricey.

    http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html

  3. #3
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    you have to double flare, looks like you made a single flare. here is the tool I use , it makes factory like flares and never had one leak. http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html

  4. #4
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Yep, the flare you made looks like a single not double. I use the Eastwood tool -- works great.

  5. #5
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    X4 on the Eastwood tool. Maybe borrow it from a nearby builder? Add your location?
    Plan B: buy a flared line, with threaded fittings, from Autozone.
    Last edited by AZPete; 01-04-2018 at 05:29 PM.
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  6. #6
    Curmudgeon mikeinatlanta's Avatar
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    If your flare is double it's way too flat. Double flares rely on deformation to seal. You don't want them compressed in the flaring tool beyond what the factory flare looks like.
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

  7. #7

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    Flare.jpg

    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
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  8. #8
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    lol Ray, we've ALL done that!

  9. #9

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Amen Brother Noob!

    I couldn't flare a brake line to save my life until I also bought the Eastwood tool.

    Go-Noob-Go

  10. #10
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    Verify you also have the correct tube nut. I had a few where the threads ran out before clamping the flare.

  11. #11
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    You guys are brilliant. I think the adapter in the kit I am using may be messed up cause it is producing a single flare. I followed the instructions and did some research at YouNiveristy. Found this cool cross sectional image.
    BRAKES9.jpg

  12. #12
    Curmudgeon mikeinatlanta's Avatar
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    Most likely means you are going too far on the first flare. Try giving about 1/2 that much flare before going for the double.

    EDIT: The center in the pic you posted. You don't want to go anywhere near that far.
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

  13. #13
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    Another possibility is that your tube is slipping in the clamping fixture on the first operation in the picture. Double flares on small tubes are a pain because it's hard to get enough clamping pressure to hold on the tube during that first step. The tube should have a pronounced bulb on the end after that first step, otherwise it's just slipping down in the fixture and basically becomes a single flare when you go to step 2.

  14. #14
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    You mentioned this is the clutch line. Where did you get your hydraulic clutch? Got mine from Forte’s and he provided a flex line to connect the slave and master cylinders. Worked great.
    JRL16
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