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Thread: Sbhunter’s coyote build

  1. #1
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    Sbhunter’s coyote build

    It’s finally happening!! My brief history is as follows: I was researching kit cars in the early 90’s and became interested in Factory Five. In 1996, I was in Boston for a wedding with my wife and test drove an early roadster with Dave Smith when they were just starting out in Dartmouth if I remember right. How cool was that! I was hooked, went home found an 87 Mustang GT and was getting ready to order and start. Child number 2 delayed my plan. Children numbers 3 and 4 sidelined my plans. I am a small farmer in Indiana and 4 kids necessitated a second full time job to make ends meet. I was a volunteer firefighter and was able to hire on as a career firefighter in Lafayette, IN. Somehow 21 years flew by. This fall my third son started college and I started bugging my wife for the thousandth time about building a ffr roadster. She said go for it and here I am. Over the years I have kept my distance because I have a tendency to become obsessed with projects. I got on their website, read through the complete kit order form, had some questions about this and that, made an appointment to order in person to lock myself into a schedule. Then I discovered the forums. Wow what a lot of good info and a great community! On 11/9, I spent 3 hours with Dan Golub going through the options. Here is what I ended up with.

    Mk4 complete kit
    Powder coated frame
    4x1x4 headers
    Full IRS
    Auto meter gauge set
    Sway bars
    12.88” Wilwoods on both ends in black
    Wind wings
    Dash support
    Leather wheel
    Coyote kit
    Etc.

    Coyote and tko500 kit is ordered. I will have details on this soon. Waiting for permission to say where I got it!

    This is the plan.

    Power steering, ask ffr about part #16473 guys, I hope it’s going to be great
    Manual brakes
    Hydraulic clutch
    Heater and foot box vents
    KIRKEY highback seats without the shoulder bolsters
    Single custom roll bar that is full width
    Boig or gas N pipes
    Mid shifter
    Drop trunk
    Herb’s door panels
    Front battery
    Breeze radiator surround and mounts
    Custom wheels in 17”
    Russ Thompson turn signal stalk
    Seat heaters
    Trunk cubby and custom glove box around the dash supports

    My plan is to powdercoat everything black including the windshield frame, all trim rings, pipes and wheels. Paint color will some variation of dark cherry red with shadow stripes. Projected completion date of the kit is 12/23 and I will pick it up in person in early January. I have a fair size farm shop that is well stocked with tools and a lift.

    Questions for the readers:
    Are the ball joints worth replacing right out of the gate?
    I am considering a fuel cell but can’t justify ffr’s price for their competition version. Anyone found a better option?
    What small pieces and parts do you all end up ordering and waiting for? I’d like to have as much as possible on hand when I start so I’m not waiting on UPS for much.

    I’m headed to the shop to start building the body buck and a frame dolly. More soon.

  2. #2
    Sounds like a great plan. Enjoy the build. Look forward to following along.
    I was not pleased with the FFR power steering kit for the coyote. Talked about it with pictures in my build thread. May be worth a look to you. Thread linked in my signature and index in post #1 will direct you to the posts on that subject.
    The forum is a great resource. Lots of great experience here to help you out whenever you need it.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Congrats on your order. Should be a great build. Couple of comments.

    Why the TKO500 vs. 600? The TKO600 is by far the most common choice for these builds. Granted you don't need the extra strength of the TKO600. But for most the ratios of the 600 work out a little better. You didn't list which IRS ratio you selected. That's a big part of the discussion. If you do go with the 500, make sure to get the TCET5201 version. It has the proper 1/8 in. 26-spline input that matches with most Coyote compatible clutches.

    Regarding the fuel cell, not too much I can add over what I said in the other thread you had on the subject. Fuel cells by definition are intended for competition use. FF's version is pricey and so is everyone else's. The trunk mod you mention won't be possible with the usual size fuel cell. Plus it will change your filler. In the trunk vs. the LeMans cap. Also will affect your fuel pump, gauge sender, and likely other things I don't know about.

    Regarding the ball joint question, assume you're talking about the front uppers. For some time the kit has been supplied with Mevotech upper ball joints. Many, including me, have struggled to get them to thread into the UCA's. But your experience may vary. Many are able to get them to thread in after take some steel wool or a wire brush to them. Alternate ball joints (Moog, Howe, etc.) may perhaps be better, but probably not worth considering if you're able to get the kit ones to work.

    Finally, for your last point regarding buying stuff ahead of time, I'd wait. There's plenty to do when your kit arrives (inventory, etc.) plus you won't know until it arrives what back order parts you have. Every delivery has some. What you're able to start right away kind of depends on what that list looks like. Good luck!
    Last edited by edwardb; 11-13-2017 at 07:19 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  4. #4
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    Wareaglescott, your build thread is actually the first one I read all the way through. It took me 3 days! Fantastic info and documentation. I will be referencing it during my build. Your concerns prompted me to discuss the rack with Dan. I left your name out. He assured me that all is better now and they are offering it as a complete kit including the krc pump with reservoir and all fittings. We will see how it goes.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by sbhunter View Post
    Wareaglescott, your build thread is actually the first one I read all the way through. It took me 3 days! Fantastic info and documentation. I will be referencing it during my build. Your concerns prompted me to discuss the rack with Dan. I left your name out. He assured me that all is better now and they are offering it as a complete kit including the krc pump with reservoir and all fittings. We will see how it goes.
    Cool! I was not aware they had upgraded the power steering kit to include better components. That sounds like it should be a good option then.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  6. #6


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    Hey Scott,
    Great to talk with you last week! I was just thinking of you today and wondering how your trip went---sounds like you have it all pretty well sorted out!

    Ball joints; Personally I've not had any problem installing the supplied pieces after wire wheeling the cosmoline like schmutz (that's the actual technical name for it ) from the threads.

    Talk to you later,
    Jeff

  7. #7
    Sounds like a great plan and I sure can relate to how having 4 kids puts plans on the back burner.

    I am similar in liking to have things on hand that I will need. Some things you will need to have your kit for though. Example the radiator fan shroud. The kit could come with either of the two versions of the radiator. It will most likely be the 'modern' one that FFR has their own source for but could be the other.

    If you are going to follow the lead of those who have done this journey before and some like Paul 3 times here is the list of stuff I tried to get ahead of time and some will be good Christmas wish list items.
    Stainless Rivnuts and an assortment of button head screws and the tool of your choosing to install the rivnuts. An organizer for these parts.
    From Papa I stole the idea and got an organizer for the rivets - the dewalt 10 compartment deep pro small parts organizer has been great. I also got organizers for the clecos and rivnuts and screws... these make great gift ideas to give out.

    POR 15 and the cleaner and prep solution. Might as well get a spare quart can as I have tried twice now and by the time I am done getting the lid off the original POR can it is in such bad shape that I just used a new can.
    1/8 and 3/16 clecos and the tool if you don't already have them
    I found and got a pack of stubby size 30 drill bits the optimal size of 1/8" rivets. 12 pack was $12 I expect I might use 2 for the whole build.
    Nut and bolt thread checker and size gauge. I have the plastic one and this one and use them both https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Lots of the parts are laser cut and have sharp edges. I got a pair of rubberized cut resistant gloves from my local big box for handling these parts until I could knock off those sharp edges or just to work with them if I cant be bothered to knock off the edges. The steel parts have the worst little blood releasers on them
    A couple rolls of the blue tape to cover areas and help protect from tool bangs and drops on the powder coat.

    That's all I can think of off the top of my head. As Paul suggested it is good to wait until you have the kit for options parts. Sounds like you have a well equipped shop so you should be good there.

    My only other suggestion is I have a spreadsheet I called tips and tricks. As I read through build threads and other discussions I grab the ideas and put them in my spreadsheet. I really need to do the next step now and that is take those jewels and put the notes right in the manual where they belong.

    Now that your order is in, this time is one of the hardest parts. The wait until completion date.
    Ron
    MK4 # 9181 - Complete Kit - Levy Racing 408 EFI, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 2017-10-06
    Build Thread - http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...499#post299499

  8. #8
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Congratulations, and welcome to the family!! Looks like you already have the heavy hitters on your side: EdwardB, Jeff Kleiner, WarEagleScott. There are a lot of really great people on this forum who will help you as you progress. Sounds like you have a really solid build plan. My build has similar components, and I can tell you that you will love it!! Enjoy the process. Let us know if we can be of assistance.
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  9. #9
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    I hate to ask because I feel lazy doing it. Can someone send me link on how to post pics, pdf’s, etc on this thread please. I use an iPad for most reading and posting if that makes a difference.

  10. #10
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    7D3F079D-52F3-4DA8-B84B-DCD0AB19E3FA.jpeg53D429D3-1B7B-4E72-A57C-5D123CD37E2D.jpeg
    Test on pictures. Wheels I am planning on using. Haven’t decided yet whether to powdercoat all black or have the polished part painted body color. I found this seat on Kirkey’s website. It is the same lower dimensions as the low back racing seat and is available in 17” width.

  11. #11
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    I guess that worked but they are small images. Small victories! I like the high back seats but don’t care for the shoulder bolsters. I believe these will work. If anyone has info otherwise, please let me know.

  12. #12
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    A3F1F5FD-22BA-4CE4-89BE-578219A9CF3E.jpeg
    This is a new part number according to Dan. The first number listed is the whole kit. It is supposed to be everything needed to complete a power steering install with their rack and a coyote motor.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbhunter View Post
    7D3F079D-52F3-4DA8-B84B-DCD0AB19E3FA.jpeg53D429D3-1B7B-4E72-A57C-5D123CD37E2D.jpeg
    Test on pictures. Wheels I am planning on using. Haven’t decided yet whether to powdercoat all black or have the polished part painted body color. I found this seat on Kirkey’s website. It is the same lower dimensions as the low back racing seat and is available in 17” width.
    Nice looking rims. I think this style, no matter what color, always looks great on roadsters
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  14. #14
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbhunter View Post
    I hate to ask because I feel lazy doing it. Can someone send me link on how to post pics, pdf’s, etc on this thread please. I use an iPad for most reading and posting if that makes a difference.
    I post my pictures to Flickr, then share them on here. I tried using the photo album feature on this site and on Flickr. I decided to go with Flickr because it seems faster and I think it does a good job keeping details in the photos when it compresses them.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by sbhunter View Post
    A3F1F5FD-22BA-4CE4-89BE-578219A9CF3E.jpeg
    This is a new part number according to Dan. The first number listed is the whole kit. It is supposed to be everything needed to complete a power steering install with their rack and a coyote motor.
    That certainly looks like an upgrade compared to the complete power steering kit that they have offered for the past year.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by sbhunter View Post
    7D3F079D-52F3-4DA8-B84B-DCD0AB19E3FA.jpeg53D429D3-1B7B-4E72-A57C-5D123CD37E2D.jpeg
    Test on pictures. Wheels I am planning on using. Haven’t decided yet whether to powdercoat all black or have the polished part painted body color. I found this seat on Kirkey’s website. It is the same lower dimensions as the low back racing seat and is available in 17” width.

    Those seats will work great because you won't have to bend the upper bolsters around the body. I discovered those to late in the game to make the switch. When I was looking Summit had a good price. I know the 17" width will fit in MK4. Will be tight at the base but it will work.

    Summit also sells a lumbar support for those seats that I found greatly increased the comfort and some nice mounting brackets as well that allow you to mount with some recline. Both of those are made by Kirkey as well.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 11-14-2017 at 07:25 PM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  17. #17
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    This is the most interesting item from my visit. Dave Smith has a new company named “Factory Five AT”. That company is selling a complete coyote/TKO600 setup with all pieces and parts to complete the install. It includes the Moroso oil pan, McLeod clutch setup, fuel pump, KN air cleaner, etc. They even have have there own cnc cut and bent engine cradle and plates for the engine hoist. The price was very competitive. I am still working on some of the details like which version of tko600. This is the spec sheet they sent me.
    EE2450D0-BDE5-45F5-89B8-112FD85A2C13.jpeg
    It can ship with the kit.

  18. #18
    Good luck on the build. I like all the added extras you are putting on. Like you, I'm trying to get all my pieces and parts ordered up in advance. It just feels better to me that way. My limited experience though has put some caution in there as well. As I'm going through everything and keep reading these forums ( I curse all you guys with all your great ideas! My checking account can't keep up!!) I keep finding other little things I want to do. In the end, I truly want something that's mine and a car I can pass along to my son so I'm always looking at upgrades wherever I can find them. I'm going to keep dropping in and checking on your progress!

  19. #19
    SBHunter,

    Looks like you're off to a good start with lots of good advice! I echo everything RRRose says about tools. I also seem to use my angle grinder A LOT, drill press, battery powered impact wrench and drill. Also MIG welder, but I've been modifying the trunk... I have a 10000lb ATLAS lift which is saving my back, I'm sure as a farmer you have room for something like that. Mine cost $1800, well worth it given I think this build will take me close to 2years to complete.

    Your rims look great. I wish I had thought about something like that...

    Finally, I am using a MAC book to post and I upload my photos into the "gallery" from a dropbox account. I have to rotate them 4 times before I upload them to get them to orient properly.

    cheers,

    Mark

  20. #20
    Senior Member Boydster's Avatar
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    I like your wheels....



    I went with the anthracite since the car will be based in grey.

    When I ordered my Kirkeys, Summit accidently sent me a pair of the drag seats, like you have pictured. I tried them on without any covers, but found I like having the shoulder supports.
    Last edited by Boydster; 11-15-2017 at 10:00 AM.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear. Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017

  21. #21
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    Boydster, those wheels look great on your car and will be perfect with a grey based paint scheme. Are those 17”? That is what I’m planning on. I like the tire aspect to rim ratio of yours.

  22. #22
    Senior Member Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbhunter View Post
    Boydster, those wheels look great on your car and will be perfect with a grey based paint scheme. Are those 17”? That is what I’m planning on. I like the tire aspect to rim ratio of yours.
    Yes, they are the 17x9 front and 17x10.5 rear. Bought them from Summit.

    Tires are NT05's, 255/40-17 and 315/35-17.

    I like how they are not Oring tires, but not billboards, either. Some new tech mixed with some old school.

    Keep up the good work.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear. Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017

  23. #23
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    Here is my next question for the experts. I am going to order my wheels today so I can get them powdercoated and have them for fitment. I don’t get the kit till January and it seems to take a year to build these cars in general. Does anyone worry about age of the tires. I am not planning on ordering the tires till I’m closer to go cart stage.

  24. #24


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    Hey Scott,
    It's tempting to get tires early since the rolling chassis looks so cool sitting on it's rubber but I tend to side with the school of thought that says wait until closer to the time you actually need them; (A) because of age even though it isn't a tremendous factor if they aren't exposed to temperature extremes and UV light and (B) because new and potentially better products are coming to market all the time (I'd wager that there were more than a few cars under construction that were sitting on Nitto 555s which had never rolled more than a few feet when the next generation 555-G2 was introduced).

    Cheers,
    Jeff

  25. #25
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    I ordered one of Kirkey’s 41700 seats from summit with the black vinyl cover to see how I would like it. It is a 17” wide seat similar to ffr highback but without the shoulder bolsters. It showed up last night and I snapped the cover in and spent an hour sitting in it on the living room floor. I then asked my loving wife of 23 years to try it as well before I ordered the match for her. She thought I was loosing it at that point but complied and agreed that it was very comfortable. I considered the tweed cover for appearance and comfort in heat but went with vinyl for when not if it gets rained on. I have been studying powder coating various panels from other build threads. I like the way the black looks in the engine compartment but I am concerned with heat transfer into the passenger compartment and being able to see around the engine when assembled. Can someone share their opinions on that. I currently think I will just clean the engine side and leave it or coat it with a light colored heat reflective something? I have decided not to coat any other panels because I will be covering them with insulation and carpet on top and bedliner on the bottom of the entire car including body. I read Wallace18’s build threads yesterday. I really like the extra panels in the wheel wells for rock protection to the body and the finished look. Does anyone make these for sale? I also just finished Jazzman’s thread. Absolutely stunning car and fantastic detail in the thread. I really like the brake lights in the roll bars. I am planning on a single full width bar and am going to copy that one. I have been saving EdwardB’s thread for awhile. I am starting on it today as the gold standard for detail based on others comments and will be making notes in my build manual as I read. One more question for the experts. I have been looking at the various versions on parking brake handles. I am not going to use the ffr setup. Has anyone just used a line lock setup for their parking brake? I am aware that it would depend on fluid pressure to maintain the brake. I’m not sure what the laws are on this. As always, all opinions are welcome and desired.

  26. #26
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Heat transfer and insulation gets a lot of bandwidth on the forums. Everyone has their favorite “I rode in a Cobra and burned my feet…” story. Here’s my take FWIW. You don’t mention what you’re planning to do on the inside of the cockpit. My experience is that adequate insulation on the inside (Dynamat, Lizard Skin, whatever, there are a bunch of options) plus carpet will make heat transfer a non-issue. I’ve done panels in silver, black, and white (all powder coat) and haven’t noticed any difference. Of much greater importance is to seal off all air penetration. That’s where you can really heat up the footboxes and/or cockpit. Some like the looks of heat shields. But I have zero regret not having them on any of my builds. We’ve done multiple higher mileage cruises, and get done in by heat from the sun. Not the interior of the car. The other comment I’ll make about your build is since you’ve already selected the Coyote, you’ll find it does a really excellent job of controlling underhood temp. Whether it’s because it’s all aluminum, how it’s cooled, or how the combustion is so well controlled (probably some of each) I’ve been amazed how controlled the temps are. My #8674 build with the Coyote, insulation and carpet in the cockpit, and tightly sealed engine compartment, can be driven for hours on a hot day with no heat transfer issues.

    I like powder coating a lot, and have done 100% powder coating on all panels on each of my builds. That’s absolutely a personal choice and lots of guys choose other methods or don’t do anything. The cost of powder coating seems to vary a bit from region to region. But for where I live, I can get everything done for in the $700-800-900 range. That’s a relatively small amount of the entire build budget, saves a ton of my time compared to something I might do myself, and the final results look great and are along lasting. I’ve used two different companies, and in both cases the price was the same whether I did both sides or only selective sides. Whatever material cost savings there might be are apparently washed out by the increased labor/handling. As far as the underside, I personally want the finished look of the powder coated panels. In multiple seasons, thousands of miles, and three builds (mostly on not to great Michigan roads) I’ve yet to have as much as a scratch on the underside from road debris or whatever. Undercoat the whole bottom if you want. But I’m not sure what it does for you. Assuming you’re not planning any off-roading. Now the wheel wells and splash guards are a whole different story. You want the underside of the body in the wheel wells and the tire side of the splash guards heavily coated. I use truck bedliner, like many. The tires kick up just about everything they run over. So obviously important to have those areas protected.

    For the wheel well liners, lots of guys use these: http://acroadsterinteriors.com/Fenderliners.html. I’ve seen them installed in person, and they’re nice. Give good protection plus gives a clean look. But personally I find them a bit expensive for what they are. Plus I’ve found that while the wheel wells don’t look too great while you’re building, once those big meats are installed and it’s sitting on the ground, you really can’t see much else. Especially if you coat the splash guards and body as I mentioned already. The good thing is these can easily be added after your build is done. A conservative approach would be to complete the build and then see if you really think you need them.

    Why aren’t you planning to use the FFR e-brake setup? For the Wilwoods you list in your build plan, they have the separate e-brake puck and take very little handle movement to lock. The Wilwood separate e-brake is only cable operated. Hydraulic wouldn’t work for it, e.g. the line lock you mention. You’re paying big bucks for that setup. Not sure why you’d not want to use it. I find the setup works very well. Many comment they can’t reach the e-brake handle in the stock position. I’m very average in size, and I can reach it OK.
    Last edited by edwardb; Yesterday at 12:13 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  27. #27
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    I will be installing some type of mat under the carpet and throughout the interior. Have not selected exactly what yet. The wheel well liners are just what I as searching for. Thank you edwardb once again. I do not like the look of the ebrake handles that I’ve seen or most of the locations. Yes, I would be wasting the ebrake part of the wilwood if I used a line lock. I will have to make that decision after I start looking at it. Possibly a foot applied (I know, box is tight already), or insetting the handle into the tunnel somehow.
    Last edited by sbhunter; Yesterday at 02:12 PM.

  28. #28
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    3,752
    Quote Originally Posted by sbhunter View Post
    I do not like the look of the ebrake handles that I’ve seen or most of the locations. Yes, I would be wasting the ebrake part of the wilwood if I used a line lock. I will have to make that decision after I start looking at it. Possibly a foot applied (I know, box is tight already), or insetting the handle into the tunnel somehow.
    Big trade-offs there IMO. I don't have particularly big feet, but no way I would give away precious space in the DS footbox. Let alone what might be required to get the cables routed out of there. Maybe something like this would give you the hidden actuation you're looking for and still use the excellent Wilwood setup. https://www.estopp.com/how-to. I personally don't have experience with it. But several on the forums have and apparently it works quite well.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

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