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Thread: Looking for replament bushings Upper control arm

  1. #1

    Looking for replament bushings Upper control arm

    My upper control arm bushings squeak! It's driving (pun intended) me crazy! I lubed them up top no avail. I just want to replace the bushings but can find who sells them. Any ideas?

    Roadster Mark III
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  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I had those same UCA's on my Mk3. But what they're providing now are a different supplier. Someone more familiar with that vintage may know if replacement parts are available. I never had to replace anything, so I don't know. Have you tried disassembling them and then lubing? Sometimes those don't take grease through the zerk very well. Also make sure the retaining nuts on the ends of the cross shafts aren't too tight.

    FYI, for several years now FF has been providing pivot bracket and bushings that look like this: http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...tion&pid=92025.
    Last edited by edwardb; 11-13-2017 at 09:26 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
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  3. #3
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    As he said, sometimes simply squirting grease into the zerk fitting isn't enough. Try taking them apart, clean them up, and re-assembly with plenty of high quality grease. Sometimes you find that they've run dry, and the shaft is scored enough that they need to be replaced. That's more common than you might think.

    http://www.spcalignment.com/spc-performance
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    SPC or Speedway motors may be able to help you replace them as an assembly.

    Early (MKI & II) Pole Position arms were notorious for not being able to lube the upper shaft very well. The fix was to grind a small (shallow) groove in the bushing surface to allow the grease to "flow" into the whole bushing area.
    15 years on the road with my MKII and no issues after that simple modification. Take them apart and inspect for scoring first. If nothing is wrong with the bushing surface on the shaft, grind a groove in that surface then polish with 600 wet-n-dry sandpaper or emery cloth . . . we're only talking about a few thousandths here, don't get crazy. You only need a small "channel" for the grease to get everywhere its needed. Try to line the groove up with the zerk port if possible.

    The one that EdwardB references above in his link is the older MKI & MKII style made originally by Pole Position.

    Doc
    Last edited by Big Blocker; 11-13-2017 at 10:51 PM.
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  5. #5
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Blocker View Post
    The one that EdwardB references above in his link is the older MKI & MKII style made originally by Pole Position.

    Doc
    Actually, I was under the impression that what they're selling now is SPC Performance (formerly Pole Position). Which is why I posted that link. If they're not, then they're exact copies. From my most recent Mk4 build and same as what I see everyone else using now.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    When you lube them, do you see grease protrude at the ends with the nuts? If not, they are probably not getting greased thoroughly.

  7. #7
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Try this. Remove the 5/8 or 11/16 nuts and bolts so you can spin the pivot around the shaft. Grease, spin, grease, spin, grease, spin. You can buy the new style pivots like in EdwardB's pic from SPC through Summit. I am not sure the diameter will match your cross shaft though. If they don't, then you will need to order cross shafts. Get the numbers from here on pg 148. Pivots = 92025. Shaft = 93400
    http://www.spcalignment.com/images/s...t_2017-web.pdf
    Order from Summit.
    These pivots have excellent grease channels.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    Edward,

    No disrespect . . . I was only referring to the original post that showed a different type of upper shaft, and since it's been 15 years since I assembled mine (MKII), I didn't realize that F5 had changed the upper shaft configuration. It looks completely different then mine. When did F5 go back to the older Pole Position style swivel on the ends (as apposed to what is shown in post #1)??

    Doc
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  9. #9
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Blocker View Post
    Edward,

    No disrespect . . . I was only referring to the original post that showed a different type of upper shaft, and since it's been 15 years since I assembled mine (MKII), I didn't realize that F5 had changed the upper shaft configuration. It looks completely different then mine. When did F5 go back to the older Pole Position style swivel on the ends (as apposed to what is shown in post #1)??

    Doc
    No problem. None taken. I don't know much more than I already posted. My Mk3's looked just like the ones the OP posted. My first Mk4 they were different, same as the second Mk4 in the picture I posted. I assume those are SPC Performance (Pole Position) because they match the pictures and descriptions exactly. But they aren't marked anywhere. I only posted the pic of the new style to let the OP know the current parts are different so current replacement parts likely wouldn't be an exact fit.

    Interesting that several others also mentioned taking the pivots off and lubing the joints up with everything apart. When I tried to lube the pivots on my Mk3 (same as what the OP pictured) I never really felt like they took grease very well. I was eventually able to get them done, but seemed harder than it should be. For the newer style parts like I mentioned came with my Mk4's, they apparently have some grooves in the poly bushings. Grease pumps in much easier and comes out evenly spaced all around the washer/nut on the end.
    Last edited by edwardb; 11-14-2017 at 04:19 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  10. #10
    Gents, thanks for all the feedback. You are ALL a wealth of knowledge and I GREATLY appreciate the help and guidance.
    I have exhausted all possibilities finding replacement rubber bushings from various vendors... they just don't make them anymore. FFR recommends that I buy the complete upper control arm. That's not a financial burden however, the new upper control arm does not look as 'robust' as the current one I have.

    new FFR control arm.jpg
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  11. #11
    Before I buy it Ill do as some of you recommended... take it apart and lube it up.

  12. #12
    Did the bolts get loosened when the alignment was done. It's a must to loosen the bolts, or the pivot is put in a bind.

  13. #13
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    http://www.spcalignment.com , based in Longmont Colorado bought the old pole position rights, and is now producing the upper a arms for factory five. Last year, when a gorilla who did not know what a left hand thread was, tried to align my car, they bent some of the parts .

    I walked in, and they were very helpful in getting me the replacement parts ( I have the pole position arms) to repair the damage. When we walked into the warehouse there was a surprising inventory of all versions of these arms.

    Good service, good prices, and best of all, a rare opportunity to have vendor who is local to me.

    Derald.

    EDIT: I just found their business card, and the person who helped me was Jeff Hargash. He is also the person who is most knowledgeable on the factory five arms.
    Last edited by Derald Rice; Yesterday at 02:35 PM. Reason: add'l info

  14. #14


    Not a waxer
    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    The silver and black upper arms shown in the first post which were used on Mk3s and early Mk4s are notorious for often times not accepting lube at the link to cross shaft joint. Some will take lube and others don't. Those that don't eventually gall and seize...but before they do they start squeaking as they get tight and stop squeaking when they seize!!!! I've had customer cars brought to me that did just that and replaced them with the SPC arms discussed. I agree, the clevis at the ball joint plate on the SPC arms does not appear to be especially robust but I know of no failures.

    Jeff

  15. #15
    If anybody comes up with any part numbers for MK3 replacements it would be greatly appreciated. I take mine apart every couple of months and grease them because of being so paranoid they will fail.

  16. #16
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyguy561 View Post
    If anybody comes up with any part numbers for MK3 replacements it would be greatly appreciated. I take mine apart every couple of months and grease them because of being so paranoid they will fail.
    You really don't want MkIII replacements. You want to upgrade to the newest parts that I listed above. They are much improved.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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