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Thread: Install FF5 driver seat adjustable seat track kit

  1. #1
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    Install FF5 driver seat adjustable seat track kit

    Install FF5 driver seat adjustable seat track kit
    I am looking to by this for my 2003/4 Mk Cobra.

    Has anyone installed this? any issues to watch for?
    The kit states to add 1.5 in, in height to drivers side, my plan was to add 1.5 in, of plywood under passengers seat to level the sears again. Bolt plywood to car floor, bolt seat to plywood. Anyone see an issue with this?

  2. #2
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    I also would like to add the height to the seats but I am a tall guy and not sure if the track is going to be too much. So that is for later in my build. I would suggest however to get some 1.5 inch billet aluminum blocks from a fab/steel shop and make some pieces to install on the passenger side if you want them to be even. I feel like plywood would be cheap and rot after a while. Billet pieces of aluminum would be a nicer finish and allow you a little room under the seats for some storage for maybe driving gloves, shammy towels, or some other small things.

  3. #3
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    I used the FFR seat track on my current mk4 build. Couple things I found when and after installing it where it adds about 1” of height not 1.5”, only one side locks (only a concern for certain race tracks), you need button head bolts for it to slide all the way back, and the bolts are a pain to get a wrench on. For mine I used aluminum shimms (looks like 1” thick washers) to space the seat up, but in all honisty the added height difference is so small you would never notice it. Another option is make both seats adjustable. Personally I liked the upgrade although I do need to look for a double locking seat track before I take it out to the race track.

  4. #4
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Being quite tall, 6'3", I chose to bolt the seat directly to the floor. Doing this allowed me to move the seat back further than you can with the tracks. Some builders doing this added a spacer under the front of the seat, to angle it up slightly for comfort, but this also restricted how far back the seat would go, because the backrest would also angle back, and contact the rear cockpit bulkhead..

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    Thank you all for the information, I will use the metal for under the passenger seat. I am only 5.11 and the seat placement is too far back for me. The pedals are just 2-3 in, too far.

  6. #6
    Junior Member DMW's Avatar
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    I "attempted" a seat track and found it was odd to manage. The tranny tunnel widens toward the front of the car so the seat essentially must go forward and towards the left to slide freely. I still want to do this so others can drive the car so I'll just try it again sometime. I would not use plywood as mentioned above because it will de-laminate with time and moisture. At a minimum, you could use pieces of pressure-treated wood or aluminum as mentioned above.

  7. #7
    Senior Member jwebb's Avatar
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    Followed directions for placement and found to tight to the door latch, so in moved everything backwards about 3/4"-1" fits better. But I have to "plug" the holes in the floor board from original placement.
    MK4 #9121 - Complete kit - Stroked 351, T5x, 3.55 Rear End, 3-Link - Pickup 6/17/17, 1st start 12/2/17, Go-Kart 12/9/17, Road Worthy 4/27/18

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    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    I used the seat tracks from Jegs on both DS and PS. They add roughly an inch and a half in height (perfect for my 5'8" body), and they latch in both tracks. I have them mounted so they slide straight forward/rearward (no angles). The geometry is tight, but with the standard FFR seat, in the rearward most position the outer edge of the seat back just touches the inner most mold line of the body, and in the forward most postion, the inner edge of the forward part of the seat just touches the trans tunnel. I did have to modify the PS latching mechanism so that the adjusting handle was on the right side track instead of the left track because the handle would hit the trans tunnel when pulled out. So instead of the handle pulling the other track latch by a cable (DS), it pushes the mating track latch with a bar (PS). I also used the FFR instructions for location and mounting. http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/cont...seat-track.pdf

    So far, I'm driving it in the rearmost seat position, or maybe one notch forward of that, so I didn't really need the sliders for driving, but I did want the ability to move the seat for cleaning, retrieving dropped things behind the seat, and access to fasteners for the removable trans tunnel top and seat belts. I really like them.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by boat737; 11-25-2017 at 11:20 AM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

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    Senior Member 42Bfast's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=boat737;302426]I used the seat tracks from Jegs on both DS and PS. The add roughly an inch and a half in height (perfect for my 5'8" body), and they latch in both tracks.

    Do you have the model number from Jegs? I'm 5' 8" too and wanting the double latch. Did the search but not sure which model will work. Thanks in advance for the assistance.

  10. #10
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=42Bfast;302766]
    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    I used the seat tracks from Jegs on both DS and PS. They add roughly an inch and a half in height (perfect for my 5'8" body), and they latch in both tracks.

    Do you have the model number from Jegs? I'm 5' 8" too and wanting the double latch. Did the search but not sure which model will work. Thanks in advance for the assistance.
    These are the one's. They are pretty solid, more so than I expected. I did not use the cone washers, just flat to the floor, and as I said, to get the room for the handle on the PS, I had to modify them by taking out the cable, swapping the rails side to side, and putting in a push bar rather than a pull cable. They seem to be very similar to the FFR ones, except of course the dual locking mechanism.
    http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...70220/10002/-1
    Last edited by boat737; 11-25-2017 at 11:22 AM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  11. #11
    Senior Member 42Bfast's Avatar
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    Excellent! Thanks for the info!

  12. #12
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    My new F5 rail kit will be installed many years after the seat was installed, the directions show where the drills and bolt the seat rails in as if there was no seat before (Clean slate). What the chance if I remove the current seat, that the holes will line up ? bolt the rails to the floor, bolt seat to the rails. Just trying to see how long I need to install rails and seat.

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