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Thread: brake line fittings from booster to distribution block

  1. #1
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    brake line fittings from booster to distribution block

    FFR includes 1 fitting and an adapter for a short line from the brake booster to the distribution block. But the other fitting is missing and not included. I need the larger line or the most forward fitting to the most forward fitting on the distribution block. I believe the one on the block is a 10mm metric fitting but the booster has a bit larger fitting with a concave shape to it. This maybe called a bulb fitting. Anyway, I am going to order more line from edelmanns rhinoskin brand. Its great stuff and bends easily and looks great. Any help would be appreciated. I am running a bendix sn95 booster and a 2300k brake kit (not made anymore) but its the 2 postion "cobra" pbr branded brake kit.




  2. #2
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Get rid of the distribution block!!!! It's not needed for any reason.

  3. #3
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    It doesnt make sense though how ffr provided the lines for the build but didnt provide the lines for the larger fitting. I will make a parts store run tomorrow with the stock fittings I have on hand and see if I can get a flare tool, the right fittings, and some more line.

  4. #4
    bobl's Avatar
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    You might do a search on the forums about that distribution block. Seems to be a lot of merit in deleting it.
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Holley HP ECU, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 4.10 gears, A/C, PS, PB Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  5. #5
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Did a search on the other forum and found this.

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...k-gut-not.html

    I still am trying to find out what brake fittings that Bendix master cylinder uses.

  6. #6
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    SN95 master accepts an M10 bubble flare on one port and M12 bubble on the other. Edelman 271300 adapts M10 male bubble to 3/16 female inverted flare, Edelman 265000 adapts M12 male bubble to 3/16 female inverted flare. I do not use the distribution block on my builds.

    Jeff

  7. #7
    Senior Member frankb's Avatar
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    Tex: The "distribution block" in your photos is actually a switch block that is used to indicate if the back or front brake system has lost pressure during braking. Back in the late '60's when the automakers started equipping cars with separate front and rear hydraulic systems, this switch "block" was included to illuminate a warning lamp in the dash if one of the brake systems lost pressure. Inside this block is a piston that is centered under normal conditions, but would move if one of the braking systems lost pressure while the other maintained pressure. This would close the switch (the thingie with the electrical connector in the center), thereby lighting the warning lamp in the dash. If you don't plan to include the warning light in your dash, you don't need this block.
    Last edited by frankb; 11-20-2017 at 07:47 AM.
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    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Thank you all for your inputs.

    Per your alls suggestions I have removed the block. It was never hooked up on the fox body it came out of. Its a great little device but I agree its not needed. I have a couple T fittings and a bias adjustment for the rear brakes from ford motorsports that i have incorporated. Here is what I have done thus far to change what you all have just advised me of. This is also for newbs like me that may want these as a reference in the future.










  9. #9
    Junior Member DMW's Avatar
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    I think you did the right thing. When I built my car 10 years ago, I took the braking system from a 1990 FOX directly to the FFR and kept the power brakes, the distribution block, and rear drums. The problem that I had along with practically everyone else is that the front locks up in a panic stop and you just slide. Scared the hell out of me on a couple of occasions. Right now I'm converting the M/C to a Whitbys kit with remote reservoirs and also doing rear disks with a rear prop valve. Hope this will help with my braking and good luck with your build.

    P.S.: since you're early in your build, consider making the tranny cover removable. Another thing that I'm doing now is replacing a rear main seal, requiring removal of the tranny, clutch, flywheel, and bell housing. My tunnel cover is removable and it made things a lot easier as I was able to drop a strap around the tranny and manage its removal with a hoist. Doing it by hand is a lot tougher given their weight.

  10. #10
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    DMW, I'd skip the prop valve. Unless you are doing huge rear discs, you still won't have enough rear brake bias.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  11. #11
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Yes, you need to remove the adjuster, even wide open it will not provide full pressure to the rears. Its almost impossible to get TOO much rear brakes on these cars. I just don't understand where the advice to add a prop valve on the rears came from, maybe needed if you still had drum brakes from a donor car?

  12. #12
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    DMW, I'd skip the prop valve. Unless you are doing huge rear discs, you still won't have enough rear brake bias.
    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    Yes, you need to remove the adjuster, even wide open it will not provide full pressure to the rears. Its almost impossible to get TOO much rear brakes on these cars. I just don't understand where the advice to add a prop valve on the rears came from, maybe needed if you still had drum brakes from a donor car?
    Yep, what Craig & Rich said.

    Jeff

  13. #13
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.

  14. #14
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Is my case for the bias just for the cobra 2300k brake kit or for both wilwood and others as well. There is a thread with some of you all setting bias just a few years back. I believe this is why there is some confusion as to using the bias and not.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rake+bias+knob

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