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Thread: Lizard Skin and Floor panels

  1. #1
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Lizard Skin and Floor panels

    So I just about have the frame and floor pans drilled so I am soon going to be shooting some lizard skin on the floor. I figure that I don't need them to fit tight like the firewall so I should be able to shoot the bottom of the floor pan without having to tape off where the frame sits. Please correct me if i am wrong. Also, I was thinking about spraying the to surface as well. I do have the insulation and sound kit from FFR which would be applied to the Lizard Skin so I don't think it would be an issue.


    Also, should I apply the lizard skin to the sheet metal that goes under the fuel tank? Is there much sound from that area once the car is on the road?
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    So I just about have the frame and floor pans drilled so I am soon going to be shooting some lizard skin on the floor. I figure that I don't need them to fit tight like the firewall so I should be able to shoot the bottom of the floor pan without having to tape off where the frame sits.
    Also, should I apply the lizard skin to the sheet metal that goes under the fuel tank? Is there much sound from that area once the car is on the road?
    Tim
    On the frame side of the floor I chose not to put the LS where they meet. I'm rolling on the LS instead of spraying it and I found that method leaves a
    pretty lumpy surface that I felt could abrade through the powdercoat/paint on the frame. I also worry that an uneven surface would allow a lot more
    trapped water to get between the two parts when driving on a wet street< which will eventually happen regardless of your plans. I also worry that the
    thin FF floor panel will be wavy after you rivet it down because of the uneven surface of the LS. I'm not sure how much smoother a spray on would be
    but it is a coating full of sand so it will be coarse no matter how it's applied. I was so unhappy with those THIN floor panels that I made new ones of .125
    AL so they wouldn't flex under my feet later. YRMV
    Dale

  3. #3
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    I think that the surface is still a bit lumpy even when sprayed on. But I was also planning on putting silicone on the frame before putting the floor pan down. Then pressing it down and riveting it to the frame. As for it being wavy... I think that it would not be noticed once the sound deading, heat shield, and the carpet have all been installed.

    I have not heard much about people saying that the floor was flexing under the feet. Have you seen that as a problem?
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  4. #4
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I've used Lizard Skin several times on Roadster builds. I really like it and will use it again on my upcoming Gen 3 Coupe build. I can provide this input FWIW. (1) Sprayed on coating is not any smoother than rolling or brushing it on. I've done both. If you use their undercoating gun (what I've used) it turns out pretty lumpy. Not sure how it would be any different given the viscosity and solids in the coatings. (2) It does it's job by having the proper thickness. I would not want the thickness of the Lizard Skin between where the panels are joined. At least for a Roadster, IMO would make panel alignment pretty challenging. (3) One of the real positives of Lizard Skin (again IMO) is how it seals everything up, adds strength to the joints, etc. That means join the panels first then apply the Lizard Skin.

    Regarding the "thin" floor panels, this is occasionally discussed in Roadster threads as well. I agree it seems that way when you're looking at the raw panels. But when riveted in place, insulation and carpet installed, etc., I've never felt they were too thin or flexed in any way. Some people worry about road hazards. Haven't seen anything remotely like that in multiple seasons of driving. Actually not a scratch on any of the bottom panels.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  5. #5
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    I sprayed the panel under the fuel tank and plan on spraying the fuel tank itself. I do have an in-tank pump though. Idk if it needs it, but I'm doing it.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    I have not heard much about people saying that the floor was flexing under the feet. Have you seen that as a problem?
    IMO The best thing about the 33 kit vs the other FF options is that we stray further from the norm making each build even more unique.
    SO;
    On my 33 with a Hemi and a 47RH tranny where nothing is typical I assess each step and tailor the parts and methods to my own taste.

    One reason for the thicker floor pan on mine is that I am pushing the floor pan as close as possible to the tranny/bellhousing etc.
    The pan will overhang the chassis supports more in some places than the FF pan did and it will also be the support for the tunnel
    I make that will hug the driveline as close as possible. When the pan became structure the .040 AL wasn't nearly up to the task.
    YRMV
    Dale

  7. #7
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    I Thought LS is to be applied to the inside of the flooring not the outside as it is not oil resent.

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