Help with rivet nut location

[BCrouse]

I know I should've checked before removing the body but I didn't think about it at the time. I am getting ready to install rivet nuts for the access cover over the master cylinders on my mk4 before powder coating the aluminum. Seems like I have read about guys putting them where they can't get to the bolts after the body is installed. Can someone post a picture or tell me where not to put them?

Thanks,
Bob

[wallace18]

The whole cover can be accessed with the body on. See post #172

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...d-Thread/page5

[BCrouse]

Thanks! Not sure where I read that but I was thinking the top back corner was covered. I just didn't want bolt holes and not be able to get to them.

[edwardb]

I'm a little reluctant to post these pictures because my #8674 build doesn't have the most recent sheet metal on the driver's side footbox. But maybe it helps a little to get some perspective. I have to respectfully disagree. The panel itself can be accessed with the body on. That's the point of having it. But if you put attachment screws all the way around it, there may be some in the top back corner that are hard if not impossible to reach. Keep in mind the body basically sits on top of the high point here, e.g. the 3/4-inch tube along with overlapping sheet metal. Then it curves around and over to the firewall area. In the process goes over the top back corner of the panel. The first picture is where I put the rivnuts for mine. The second pic is where they fall with the body on. Again, your experience may vary based on the latest sheet metal. But hopefully this helps a little.

[boat737]

I guess it depends on the version Mk and the sheetmetal that came with the kit. Mine is accessible all the way around and I have RivNuts all edges with no problem. But looking at EdwardB's, it looks like the access hole (and the mating panel) are just a bit bigger than mine, or at least skewed a bit to the rear, and that part of the hood opening edge covers up the back part of the panel.

(Edit: Added pictures. Mk4, #8439, delivered 11/14 I think.)

[edwardb]

I guess it depends on the version Mk and the sheetmetal that came with the kit. Mine is accessible all the way around and I have RivNuts all edges with no problem. But looking at EdwardB's, it looks like the access hole (and the mating panel) are just a bit bigger than mine, or at least skewed a bit to the rear, and that part of the hood opening edge covers up the back part of the panel. (I'll get some pictures up later, and add to this post.)

This only pertains to Mk4's. Earlier Mk's had a much different shape DS footbox and typically used a donor pedal box with the master cylinder outside the footbox. So access wasn't so critical and a panel was never standard. Besides, what's more fun than laying on your back in the cockpit working up in the footbox?

I'd be very interested to see pictures. Like I said, mine is not the latest version and every other Mk4 with the cutout (they didn't have them initially...) I've seen were slightly covered on the back corner. But I haven't seen the most recent sheet metal with the body on.

[dncharo]

Here is a picture I took before removing the body. We got our kit in August, so it is a recent one. I knew this would be an issue which is why I took this picture and indeed it appears that only part of this access panel is accessible with the body on...

[BCrouse]

My kit was delivered July 10th so I think I will go with dncharo and leave the top row of bolts out. Thanks everyone for the help and the pictures.

[Avalanche325]

I don't think you should trust how the body is sitting as delivered. That is not how it really sits.

My MKIV is just before they came with the access panel. I made my own which goes back closer to the firewall than the FFR one. Look at edwardb's 2nd picture. The only tight place is right where the hood opening curves in.

I put a lot of screws in mine, and I made a gasket. I wanted it watertight and to still be a real firewall. I recommend using button head screws and rivnuts. You can get a 1/4 hex drive bit on them easily. I have a mini bit ratchet that I use on them (and a shocking amount of other things). If you leave that top row off, you could be letting water in right on top of your fuse box.

[DMW]

I probably swiped this idea from someone else but in my case I made a slip fit for the piece you want to remove. I installed the outer aluminum piece but spaced it off the top frame rod with a washer at all connection points. Then, I notched the removable piece to fit around the washers and under the outer piece so it slid into place under the outer piece. To hold it, I used nuts on the lower engine side and along the front edge. It allows me to take off the entire piece with no problem.