Does the alternator need to be grounded or just the 1 wire running to the starter solenoid? Battery isn't charging, what else ??
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Does the alternator need to be grounded or just the 1 wire running to the starter solenoid? Battery isn't charging, what else ??
MK4 #9121 - Complete kit - Stroked 351, T5x, 3.55 Rear End, 3-Link - Pickup 6/17/17, 1st start 12/2/17, Go-Kart 12/9/17, Road Worthy 4/27/18
I do have a separate ground jumper on my 1 terminal alternator, but I cannot tell in the phone pics I have handy exactly how it connects. I seem to remember a small stud for a an eyelet type connector. Will have to look at home this evening. If you are using a remote starter solenoid, be sure that red charge wire is connected to the battery side and not the starter side. That wire has to be connected directly to the + battery cable somewhere otherwise the charge current won't get back to the battery.
http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/...structions.pdf
There's a you-tube video that says there may be a need to briefly touch a wire from the output terminal to the R terminal (if there is one) to excite the alternator, the first time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPl7CTb685I
Last edited by DaveS53; 12-08-2017 at 01:24 PM.
I did not run a ground, just 1 heavy gauge wire, through a 100 amp fusible link, directly to the battery. My battery is front mounted like the Breeze forward battery box. Works great.
Norm
Take a look at the attachment Dave posted. At ~170-degrees from the output terminal is a small raised pedestal. Most one-wire alternators have a threaded pedestal to use for a ground wire as they are case grounded. Using a ground wire from here directly to the block (assuming the engine is grounded like it should be) or to the chassis will provide a reliable ground source so you don't rely on the alternator mounting brackets for a ground. Yes the mounting bracket usually is good enough but I've seen some installations that have corroded bad enough I wouldn't rely on the mounting bracket to ground the charging system.
1 wire alternators will typically not charge until the RPMs come up. They do not have an excitation circuit like a "regular" alternator. Even after being excited, they can drop out when the RPMs come down.
I am not a fan of them.
I probably would not have chosen a 1 wire but my car came w/ one. It's been 10 years. Once in a while I will notice that the alt isn't charging right after I start the car. If it's early in the AM I don't worry about it as it will start charging as soon as i pull out of the driveway. If it's not early, I give it a small rev to about 2000 and up pops the V meter.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
I agree with naz the alternator will need a proper ground to work
Rick
#8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater
While the alt may need a ground, I am trying to imagine how you bolt one to the head/block and not have a good ground.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
My 1 wire isn't grounded. The block is however.
F5R9196 Hand built 347 475hp EFI | T5Z | LSD 3.73 3-link | Power Steering | Power Brakes | Vintage Air | 315/35ZR17 & 275/40ZR17 NT555
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F5R9196 Hand built 347 475hp EFI | T5Z | LSD 3.73 3-link | Power Steering | Power Brakes | Vintage Air | 315/35ZR17 & 275/40ZR17 NT555
HAGERTY. DRIVERS CLUB | Texas Cobra Club
How about Form Drag, or Surface Drag, or Friction Drag, or Induced Drag? (Sorry, just had to ....)
Seriously, my Alt pulley is overdriven. It looks to be spinning at least 2 or 3 times the crank RMP, maybe more. I haven't had any Exciter problems or issues, but it is still new.
My "One" wire goes from the Alt directly to the battery (through a circuit breaker). I bypassed the starter solenoid. Also, I do not have a dedicated Alt ground, but the block is grounded with a dedicated circuit wire.
Last edited by boat737; 12-09-2017 at 12:14 PM.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Boat I used to have one of those tiny pulleys on my alt also. Never payed it much attention until I was looking for a noise. It was not related at all to the noise but, once I saw the diameter and compared it to the crank pulley, I decided the alt didn't need to spin 3 times engine speed (my wild guess only). So I found a larger pulley. Maybe they put those tiny pulleys on the 1 wire alts on purpose but I didn't like the idea.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
With the car off - do you have 12 volts at the alt? What is the voltage when off? Then start the car and if need be rev it up then what is the voltage at the alt? The voltage will always be higher when running. Then check the voltage at the batt it should also be higher when running!
Mk3.1 347 AFR 205cc Heads A9L EFI siemens deca 60lb injectors MSD 6AL ignition Vortech V-3 3 Link PS/PB
-- If you can’t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem ! —