Midwest Classic Insurance

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 23 of 23

Thread: Vintage Gauge Wiring

  1. #1
    Senior Member jwebb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Longmeadow, MA
    Posts
    288
    Post Thanks / Like

    Vintage Gauge Wiring

    Struggling with the gauge wiring, wording below for the volt gauge mentions certain Mustang production years, I’m using a new complete kit. Where do I attach the yellow wire on the gauge?

    From installation guide"
    Volt Gauge
    Attach the yellow positive wire using a butt connector to the power wire feed as described below.


    Power wire

    90-93 Attach the red wire from the power distribution cable to the Mustang gauge pod Ign. Sw. to
    Ign. Coil (BATT) wire used earlier for the charge indicator.
    96-04 Attach the gauge red wire to the gauge pod Voltage in Start and Run (white/light blue) wire.

    Also, the fuel gauge shows full when empty and when a couple of gallons of fuel is added it moves to 3/4 full, what am doing wrong??
    MK4 #9121 - Complete kit - Stroked 351, T5x, 3.55 Rear End, 3-Link - Pickup 6/17/17, 1st start 12/2/17, Go-Kart 12/9/17, Road Worthy 4/27/18

  2. #2
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Fairfax Station VA
    Posts
    1,229
    Post Thanks / Like
    Since you're building the complete kit, you're using the Factory Five Classic gauges, correct? If so, they're from Speedhut and you should ignore the Mustang production year wording.

    Again from the complete kit, you're using the Ron Francis harness correct? If so, on the cover there should be a Revision Number; what is it?

    The fuel gauge most likely needs to be calibrated; there should be instructions in the box in which your gauges came.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  3. #3
    Senior Member jwebb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Longmeadow, MA
    Posts
    288
    Post Thanks / Like
    John,
    Yes Ron Francis harness and the instructions are Rev T.
    MK4 #9121 - Complete kit - Stroked 351, T5x, 3.55 Rear End, 3-Link - Pickup 6/17/17, 1st start 12/2/17, Go-Kart 12/9/17, Road Worthy 4/27/18

  4. #4
    Senior Member jwebb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Longmeadow, MA
    Posts
    288
    Post Thanks / Like
    Gauge set is rev E instructions
    MK4 #9121 - Complete kit - Stroked 351, T5x, 3.55 Rear End, 3-Link - Pickup 6/17/17, 1st start 12/2/17, Go-Kart 12/9/17, Road Worthy 4/27/18

  5. #5
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Fairfax Station VA
    Posts
    1,229
    Post Thanks / Like
    OK; for the Speedhut gauges use the instructions starting about 3/4 way down on Page 52 (GPS Vintage gauge install), with one addition. For the volt meter, attach yellow sender wire to the RF brown gauge feed wire (along with the red power distribution wire show in the picture at the bottom of page 55). That ought to get you up & running.

    One other word on the fuel gauge. It determines the fuel level by measuring the resistance provided by the fuel sender. Speedhut typically ships them calibrated for the stock Mustang fuel sender. This means the gauge is most likely expecting a resistance of 16-158 ohms. To find out if you've got a different fuel sender, unplug the fuel gauge from the RF harness and measure the resistance across the RF light green fuel sender and RF black fuel sender ground wires. Then add a gallon of gas, and measure the resistance again. You should quickly get a feel for whether your sender is providing a range different from standard, in which case your next step is to calibrate the gauge to accommodate (you can do this any time; calibration isn't going to hold up your wiring or your build). The gauge instructions will help you figure out which calibration you need.


    John

    P.S. Also, if you're using EFI, don't mess with your fan or fuel pump circuits yet. You need to understand what your EFI computer provides before wiring those circuits. It's also likely you'll need a coolant temperature sensor to feed the EFI computer and a second one to feed the temperature gauge. Finally, you may need a wire off the negative terminal of your coil for the EFI computer and a second wire to feed the tachometer.
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 12-13-2017 at 03:09 PM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  6. #6
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Fairfax Station VA
    Posts
    1,229
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by jwebb View Post
    Gauge set is rev E instructions
    Hmmm. That's a new one for me. Are your gauges the black-faced ones from F5? http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/1600...s-speedometer/

    EDIT: Nevermind; I found those instructions on the F5 website; they're for the various stock Mustang harnesses. Stick with the RF instructions and you should be good to go.


    John
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 12-13-2017 at 03:18 PM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  7. #7
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Wheaton, IL
    Posts
    1,408
    Post Thanks / Like
    If I may, I'd like to resurrect this thread. Like JWEBB, I have the vintage (Speedhut) gauges and the RF Harness. I, too, am at a bit of a loss on making the connections on the back side of the dash. John (Phileas_fogg) mentions page 52 of a manual - my RF harness manual only goes to page 40 (Revision N, Sept 14). The stapled gauge instruction set is revision B...

    Is there a newer wiring harness book that would be better for these gauges? (my kit is from summer of 2015)
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
    Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    473
    Post Thanks / Like
    These gauges are plug and play with the RF harness. The instructions are if you are using the OEM mustang harness. The RF dash harness has the connectors already installed and the wires are labeled. There will be a single yellow wire with a connector labeled volt I believe for the voltage gauge. The others are also labeled with connectors. So that part is simple. The only tricky part is the transformer box for dimming. It has a daisy chain harness that each gauge will plug into along with the dimmer dial and the 2 power wires that you wire in. The RF instructions cover this and it’s easy as they get power when the parking lights are turned on. If needed I can shoot a pic of where it hooks up.

  9. #9
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Fairfax Station VA
    Posts
    1,229
    Post Thanks / Like
    If you're using Rev N of the RF harness, you need to follow Jeff Kleiner’s excellent summary on gauge wiring (Post #10 of http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...-question.html):

    “The Speedhut/FFR Classic gauges use 2 wire senders while the RF harness is set up for one wire so I recommend doing kind of a hybrid. You'll need to power up all of the gauges on their red wire by connecting them to the brown "gauge feed" wire in the harness. Also connect the black "ground" wire in the dash harness to each of the gauges' black wires. You will carry the tachometer signal from the coil on the purple "coil-tach" wire that runs all the way through in the sending units subharness. The speedo signal comes through the green and gray wires which will join the yellow/red and yellow/black wires on the gauge. Polarity is not important as it is only counting pulses. For the coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges run the long pigtail with the yellow/red and yellow/black wires to their respective senders. Once again polarity is not an issue because these are reading resistance. The voltmeter has no sender, the gauge power and ground give it all it needs. Fuel gauge connects to the light green "gas sender" wire. I recommend powering the clock from the red "radio memory" wire. That will get everything working!

    “Next move on to gauge lighting. The white wire from all of the gauges connects to the RF harness white "dash lights" wire. If you have the seperate dimmer module the white harness "dash lights" wire connects to the input of the dimmer; the dimmer's black ground connects to the black harness ground. From there the dimmers output snaps into the connectors for the lighter gauge wire. It seems redundant but is this way because the needles are lighted independently from the gauge face and are not dimmed. If you do not have the dimmer module then the small white wire at the end of the snap together chain also connects to the harness "dash lights" wire. By the way, before you drive yourself crazy thinking something is wrong the hands on the clock are not lighted.”

    Jeff has a similar tutorial on switches (Post #18 of http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...sh-layout.html):

    “ON/OFF/ON is turn signal--- Land the gray "turn flasher feed" wire to the center terminal Join the yellow ""left rear turn" and the green "left front turn" wires together along with 3 extra pigtails (we'll get to what to do with them in a minute). Join the light blue "right front turn" and the white "right rear turn" wires together and include 3 pigtails with them as well. One pigtail from the yellow and green set goes to one of the outer terminals of the switch, another will go to the left turn dash indicator and the third one will go to the hazard flasher switch (again, we'll get there in a minute). Do the same with the blue and white wire set---one of the pigtails goes to the other terminal of the switch, one goes to the right turn dash indicator and the third will go to the hazard switch. After this you're done with the turn signal switch. To make the dash indicators work you'll connect the respective pigtail to one terminal of the lamp and connect the other terminal to ground.

    “ON/OFF switches are used for accessories like the heater blower or cooling fan---power goes to the center terminal and the feed for the accessory goes to the other.

    “ON/ON switch is for High/Low beam toggle. Since you're using a foot switch it doesn't apply.

    “ON/OFF/ON [NOTE: In my case, it’s an ON/[no]/ON] DPDT] gets a little screwy... This is a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch that gets used for the flashers. It really should be a DPST (double pole single throw) ON/OFF switch. They have been providing this same switch for years and the only reason I can come up with is because a DPST is not available in this style but it will work. Take the pink "hazard flasher" feed wire and connect it to BOTH center terminals of the switch. Connect the pigtail from your yellow/green pair to one of the outside terminals. Connect the pigtail from your blue/white pair to the other terminal on the SAME end of the switch. This leaves the two terminals on the other end of the switch unused. The switch will have 2 OFF positions (because there is nothing connected to the other set of terminals) and 1 ON position. If you wanted it to have 2 ON positions you could run a jumper from the terminal with the green/yellow to the open terminal on the same side of the other end and do likewise with the blue/white. In that case the center switch position would be off and flipping the switch either direction would turn on the hazard flashers.
    Looking at the back of the switch it will be like this:

    OPEN--------OPEN
    PINK---------PINK
    Y & G--------B & W

    OR

    Y & G--------B & W
    PINK---------PINK
    Y & G--------B & W

    Told you it was screwy but trust me, it will work.”

    It is screwy, but it does work.


    John
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 02-22-2018 at 08:24 AM. Reason: Fixed broken links
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    37
    Post Thanks / Like
    So I was reading through this I have the RF wire harness and the Speedhut guages as well. It is pretty much plug and play but one thing above jumped out at me.

    MY efi has a temp sensor already connected to the water housing. Are you saying that the speedut temp guage needs another water sensor? I assumed that since the efi had it already connected I could ignore the one FF sent. Now that i am thinking about it maybe i need the other one unless the efi feeds the guage somehow

  11. #11
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,000
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by wisel1 View Post
    So I was reading through this I have the RF wire harness and the Speedhut guages as well. It is pretty much plug and play but one thing above jumped out at me.

    MY efi has a temp sensor already connected to the water housing. Are you saying that the speedut temp guage needs another water sensor? I assumed that since the efi had it already connected I could ignore the one FF sent. Now that i am thinking about it maybe i need the other one unless the efi feeds the guage somehow
    You will actually need an additional sensor (sender) that matches the gauge. The one for EFI talks to the computer but not to the gauge and vice-versa.

    Jeff

  12. #12
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    37
    Post Thanks / Like
    so glad I asked.thanks Jeff.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Hotyacht's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    159
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    If you're using Rev N of the RF harness, you need to follow Jeff Kleiner’s excellent summary on gauge wiring (Post #10 of http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...uestion.html):

    “The Speedhut/FFR Classic gauges use 2 wire senders while the RF harness is set up for one wire so I recommend doing kind of a hybrid. You'll need to power up all of the gauges on their red wire by connecting them to the brown "gauge feed" wire in the harness. Also connect the black "ground" wire in the dash harness to each of the gauges' black wires. You will carry the tachometer signal from the coil on the purple "coil-tach" wire that runs all the way through in the sending units subharness. The speedo signal comes through the green and gray wires which will join the yellow/red and yellow/black wires on the gauge. Polarity is not important as it is only counting pulses. For the coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges run the long pigtail with the yellow/red and yellow/black wires to their respective senders. Once again polarity is not an issue because these are reading resistance. The voltmeter has no sender, the gauge power and ground give it all it needs. Fuel gauge connects to the light green "gas sender" wire. I recommend powering the clock from the red "radio memory" wire. That will get everything working!

    “Next move on to gauge lighting. The white wire from all of the gauges connects to the RF harness white "dash lights" wire. If you have the seperate dimmer module the white harness "dash lights" wire connects to the input of the dimmer; the dimmer's black ground connects to the black harness ground. From there the dimmers output snaps into the connectors for the lighter gauge wire. It seems redundant but is this way because the needles are lighted independently from the gauge face and are not dimmed. If you do not have the dimmer module then the small white wire at the end of the snap together chain also connects to the harness "dash lights" wire. By the way, before you drive yourself crazy thinking something is wrong the hands on the clock are not lighted.”

    Jeff has a similar tutorial on switches (Post #18 of http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...-layout.html):

    “ON/OFF/ON is turn signal--- Land the gray "turn flasher feed" wire to the center terminal Join the yellow ""left rear turn" and the green "left front turn" wires together along with 3 extra pigtails (we'll get to what to do with them in a minute). Join the light blue "right front turn" and the white "right rear turn" wires together and include 3 pigtails with them as well. One pigtail from the yellow and green set goes to one of the outer terminals of the switch, another will go to the left turn dash indicator and the third one will go to the hazard flasher switch (again, we'll get there in a minute). Do the same with the blue and white wire set---one of the pigtails goes to the other terminal of the switch, one goes to the right turn dash indicator and the third will go to the hazard switch. After this you're done with the turn signal switch. To make the dash indicators work you'll connect the respective pigtail to one terminal of the lamp and connect the other terminal to ground.

    “ON/OFF switches are used for accessories like the heater blower or cooling fan---power goes to the center terminal and the feed for the accessory goes to the other.

    “ON/ON switch is for High/Low beam toggle. Since you're using a foot switch it doesn't apply.

    “ON/OFF/ON [NOTE: In my case, it’s an ON/[no]/ON] DPDT] gets a little screwy... This is a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch that gets used for the flashers. It really should be a DPST (double pole single throw) ON/OFF switch. They have been providing this same switch for years and the only reason I can come up with is because a DPST is not available in this style but it will work. Take the pink "hazard flasher" feed wire and connect it to BOTH center terminals of the switch. Connect the pigtail from your yellow/green pair to one of the outside terminals. Connect the pigtail from your blue/white pair to the other terminal on the SAME end of the switch. This leaves the two terminals on the other end of the switch unused. The switch will have 2 OFF positions (because there is nothing connected to the other set of terminals) and 1 ON position. If you wanted it to have 2 ON positions you could run a jumper from the terminal with the green/yellow to the open terminal on the same side of the other end and do likewise with the blue/white. In that case the center switch position would be off and flipping the switch either direction would turn on the hazard flashers.
    Looking at the back of the switch it will be like this:

    OPEN--------OPEN
    PINK---------PINK
    Y & G--------B & W

    OR

    Y & G--------B & W
    PINK---------PINK
    Y & G--------B & W

    Told you it was screwy but trust me, it will work.”

    It is screwy, but it does work.


    John
    I know I am going to look pretty dumb here - but when i click on either of those links to check out Jeff's pearls of wisdom on the VooDoo black art of wiring........I end up on the general front forum page of FFRCars, rather than a specific thread. How do I find the actual discussion?
    FFR MkIV 8419 - Right Hand Drive
    427W with Inglese 8 Stack injection - 560hp
    TKO600 5 Speed, 8.8 Detroit Trutrak LSD IRS
    VPM Adjustable Sway Bars
    Vintage Wheels 17" Pin Drive

  14. #14
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Wheaton, IL
    Posts
    1,408
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    If you're using Rev N of the RF harness, you need to follow Jeff Kleiner’s excellent summary on gauge wiring (Post #10 of http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...uestion.html):
    I get the same thing - front page of FFCARS. could you expand the reference, perhaps? Thanks!
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
    Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount

  15. #15
    Senior Member jlfernan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Port Orange, Fl
    Posts
    323
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    Speedo:
    black with dashes gets plugged into the black with dashes daisy chain
    Black/red/white gets plugged into the black/red/white daisy chain
    Red with black (hot start) is connected to the RF speedo-clock-mem
    Green with red (right turn) is connected to the RF light blue Rt dash indicator
    Green with orange (left turn) is connected to the RF green Lt dash indicator
    Blue with white (high beams) is connected to the RF brown hi beam indicator

    Tach:
    black with dashes gets plugged into the black with dashes daisy chain
    Black/red/white gets plugged into the black/red/white daisy chain
    Yellow with green is plugged in to the RF purple coil-tach wire
    Purple tach wire is connected to the coil of the coyote

    Clock:
    black with dashes gets plugged into the black with dashes daisy chain
    Black goes to RF ground
    Red goes to RF red Speedo-clock-mem

    Volts:
    black with dashes gets plugged into the black with dashes daisy chain
    Black/red/white gets plugged into the black/red/white daisy chain
    yellow with green goes to the RF brown gauge feed

    Water:
    black with dashes gets plugged into the black with dashes daisy chain
    Black/red/white gets plugged into the black/red/white daisy chain
    Yellow with black & yellow with red gets plugged into the RF blue (water temp) & black (ground) plug
    From the sending units harness, i connect the speedhut water/oil/trans wire to the blue (water temp) and black (ground) wires and then the brass plug is inserted

    Oil:
    black with dashes gets plugged into the black with dashes daisy chain
    Black/red/white gets plugged into the black/red/white daisy chain
    Yellow with black & yellow with red gets plugged into the RF gray (oil pressure ) & black (ground) plug
    From the sending units harness, i connect the speedhut oil psi wire to the gray (oil pressure) and black (ground) wires and then the psi unit is inserted

    Fuel
    black with dashes gets plugged into the black with dashes daisy chain
    Black/red/white gets plugged into the black/red/white daisy chain
    Yellow with black & yellow with red gets plugged into the RF green (gas sender) & black (ground) plug
    From the rear harness, Fuel level sender is plugged in

  16. #16
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Fairfax Station VA
    Posts
    1,229
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hotyacht View Post
    I know I am going to look pretty dumb here - but when i click on either of those links to check out Jeff's pearls of wisdom on the VooDoo black art of wiring........I end up on the general front forum page of FFRCars, rather than a specific thread. How do I find the actual discussion?
    An artifact of where the formatting tags are inserted broke the links; I edited the post so the links now work. Should have checked they work before leaving the post; sorry 'bout that!

    Gauges: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...-question.html

    Switches: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...sh-layout.html


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  17. #17
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Wheaton, IL
    Posts
    1,408
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yup, works now. Thanks!
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
    Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount

  18. #18
    Senior Member Hotyacht's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    159
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thank you John, much appreciated
    FFR MkIV 8419 - Right Hand Drive
    427W with Inglese 8 Stack injection - 560hp
    TKO600 5 Speed, 8.8 Detroit Trutrak LSD IRS
    VPM Adjustable Sway Bars
    Vintage Wheels 17" Pin Drive

  19. #19
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Fairfax Station VA
    Posts
    1,229
    Post Thanks / Like
    No worries guys. And thanks to Jeff Kleiner, who has bailed out more of us than we can collectively count!
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  20. #20
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Wheaton, IL
    Posts
    1,408
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just when I think it all makes sense, I get my head handed to me again. You guys always help me get my head back on again. Most of the scars have healed, but here we are again.

    I've read Jeff's comments from the other forum and most of it makes sense. I've looked at input from Jorge and John, but I still have some questions. Trust me, I'll have more, but I need to get through these first. Here we go:

    1. The speedhut gauges have groupings of wires into their own connectors. Each has a black wire and black wire with dashes grouping. Jorge says "gets plugged into the black with dashes daisy chain." Where do I find this daisy chain? I haven't identified any black with dashes on any of the wires coming out of the RF harness. Can you point me in the right direction? (when I hear "daisy chain", I think of plugging things together in series rather than in parallel)

    2. A ridiculously fundamental question, but I need to ask it. I'm assuming it's ok to cut off all these connectors on the gauges and crimp on others, right? I don't see any connectors anywhere that would match these.

    3. on the "dash harness" bundle (3 weather pack connectors that mates up nicely with the RF harness). There is a gray wire labeled "turn flasher fd". where does that go?

    Thank you. Getting past these items will solve a bunch of problems.
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
    Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount

  21. #21
    Papa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    5,594
    Post Thanks / Like
    Al,

    The daisy chain wire for lighting and power are bundled with the gauges. Look through the box they came in and you should find them along with the plug-in push button needed to calibrate the fuel gauge, set the clock, and use the features like the trip odometer on your speedo. I actually ordered additional buttons from Speedhut to keep one on the clock and one on the speedo and an extra one just in case. They are only about $8.00 each.

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 03-01-2018 at 05:50 PM.
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

    Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
    Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
    Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread

  22. #22
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Fairfax Station VA
    Posts
    1,229
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Al_C View Post
    Just when I think it all makes sense, I get my head handed to me again. You guys always help me get my head back on again. Most of the scars have healed, but here we are again.

    I've read Jeff's comments from the other forum and most of it makes sense. I've looked at input from Jorge and John, but I still have some questions. Trust me, I'll have more, but I need to get through these first. Here we go:

    1. The speedhut gauges have groupings of wires into their own connectors. Each has a black wire and black wire with dashes grouping. Jorge says "gets plugged into the black with dashes daisy chain." Where do I find this daisy chain? I haven't identified any black with dashes on any of the wires coming out of the RF harness. Can you point me in the right direction? (when I hear "daisy chain", I think of plugging things together in series rather than in parallel)
    There are two SpeedHut (SH) daisy chains. The red-white-black daisy chain provides power to the gauges; SH red goes to RF Brown (gauge feed), SH white goes to RF White (dash lights), and SH Black goes to RF Black (ground). The dash black-black daisy chain provides power to the gauge needles; SH dash black goes to RF White (dash lights; same wire as for the other daisy), and SH Black goes to RF Black (ground). As Dave said, the daisy chains are in the gauge box.

    Quote Originally Posted by Al_C View Post
    2. A ridiculously fundamental question, but I need to ask it. I'm assuming it's ok to cut off all these connectors on the gauges and crimp on others, right? I don't see any connectors anywhere that would match these.
    Yes you can replace connectors, but consider each gauge and make the decision individually. If you're using a SH sensor/sending unit, it makes sense to keep the SH connector. I mixed and matched connectors based on what was easy; see my build log starting at post #304. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...r-build-3.html Don't worry about the re-bundling of wires I did; that was to accommodate the competition layout for my dash and is unnecessary for the standard layout.

    Quote Originally Posted by Al_C View Post
    3. on the "dash harness" bundle (3 weather pack connectors that mates up nicely with the RF harness). There is a gray wire labeled "turn flasher fd". where does that go?

    Thank you. Getting past these items will solve a bunch of problems.
    The RF Gray (turn flasher feed) goes to the center terminal of the turn signal switch (ON/OFF/ON).

    I can tell by the questions you're doing fine; as you come across issues, keep those questions coming!


    John
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 03-01-2018 at 09:12 AM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  23. #23
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Wheaton, IL
    Posts
    1,408
    Post Thanks / Like
    Dave and John,

    Yup, found 'em. They were in the box as you suggested. Hopefully I can spend some time on this tonight!
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
    Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Martin's Dent and Collision Shop

Visit our community sponsor