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MR2 Shifter with Zero D. bell crank linkage questions
I have acquired the Zero Decibel shift linkage and have shifter and cable questions. Spend hours last night researching this option and still have a couple of questions. I want to install the MR2 shifter under the tunnel with the cables running through the engine, under the intake manifold. This appears to be the best option for shortest cables with the least amount of bends with the added advantage of a much, much cleaner installation.
1) sound like a good plan?
2) What year for the MR2 shifter is recommended?
3) What length cable is best for this option? Any particular brand?
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Senior Member
'91-'95 mr2 shifter,
https://www.ebay.com/i/222752384441?...13926431726811
This eBay one is a bit pricey . I got mine from a pic your part for under $20
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Senior Member
I just finished this installation on my build - I bought my MR2 shifter a while ago at a junk yard but I think it was from a 1992. I routed mine the way you are planning; your steepest angle there is coming off the back of the heads and into Craig's shift linkage. I got 86" custom control cables in 1/4-28 thread with bulkhead assembly on one end only (ZeroDB side) because I did not use the MR2 shifter metal support plate, I built my own with 1/4" aluminum strips. Similar to what Bob_n_Cincy built for his. That length worked well for my routing plan and I ordered the cables with 3" of travel - based on recommendations from others. The set up is really nice and clean and the shift motion is very smooth and crisp.
Last edited by mistasherm; 12-14-2017 at 02:15 PM.
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Senior Member
I don't have a gas tank to go over, so I went around the driver side of the engine with 7 ft (84") cables.
shift.jpg side_shifter.jpg
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I built solid linkage for mine. Gotta jump thru some hoops for that tho. It was worth it to me.
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Moonlight Performance
I routed mine the way you describe. Pics in my build thread.
As for cable length, I would strongly advise ordering custom-length cables instead of buying pre-made lengths. The result will be much tighter and better feeling shifting. Lay some thick rope down, mark it, and measure it then order to that length. My two cables are not the same length.
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Very cool! I ordered the shifter on eBay. I will measure for the cables. Am I measuring the length of the casing from mounting boss to mounting boss and want about 3" of cable travel? Are there any instruction for mounting and adjusting the bell crank assembly? This will be so much better than the original set up. Anyone interested in an expensive aluminum shifter assembly?
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Where/who made the cables for you?
Sorry for not being too tech savy, but we're do I find build threads?
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Clyde's Keeper
Where/who made the cables for you?
I got mine from Midwest Control Products Corp (SteinJager)
Build threads are under the individual FFR kit forums - when you click on this link below look up near the top of the page for the little "house" symbol, it will show you what banners I clicked on to get to the build threads. I am more of a lurker on the forum and it is full of great people with some really innovative ideas. Hindsight, I posted the link to your build thread as an example since you referenced it above.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...s-build-thread
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Senior Member
Most of the info you need can be found here:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...42-MR2-Shifter
Website for custom cables:
https://www.cccables.com/Cables/PushPull/4SeriesPP.aspx
My advice is to leave ordering the cables until the very end - after you've finished the shifter and the trans linkage. Then install the old long cables and route them as desired. You'll have a large loop of cable that can be subtracted out when ordering the new cable lengths.
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Moonlight Performance
Search for "Hindsight's build thread" and you'll find mine. I can't remember where I bought my cables from but I believe I noted it in my build thread. There are a couple companies that will make them for you and prices vary, as do quality of the cables.
3" travel should be plenty and the measurements are usually taken from the ends of the cables. So you have to fabricate your cable-holding brackets so they are in the right spot. What I did is put the shifter in, then put the bell-crank and the fore/aft arm in place. Then I layed the FFR provided cables in place. Of course they were way too long but they are stiff and simulate how a cable is going to lay. Let the excess just hang out the back of the car. Then look at the online docs for your cable provider of choice and note the distance between the END of the cable, and the bulkhead or clamp location. Measure this distance back from your linkage and that's where you'll want to build the clamp or hole in your brackets.
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