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Thread: Anyone ever cut down (trim) roll bar?

  1. #1
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    Anyone ever cut down (trim) roll bar?

    Trying to finish details before paint and I'm having trouble getting past
    the height of the roll bar. Just seems out of proportion when looking at front profile and side for that matter. Has anyone cut one down? Do I just cut a inch or two off bottom?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Higgybulin's Avatar
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    If you cut anything off the front bars(making it shorter) it'll change the angle of your downward bar and it will miss the rear mount.

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    Consider changing to a 2 inch bar. It really makes it look much shorter. Either that or look into the Breeze roll bars.
    Mike

  4. #4
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    I went with the Breeze bars on my MK IV. They look fantastic. http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=926

    Olli

  5. #5
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fhp1154! View Post
    Trying to finish details before paint and I'm having trouble getting past
    the height of the roll bar. Just seems out of proportion when looking at front profile and side for that matter. Has anyone cut one down? Do I just cut a inch or two off bottom?
    Please put some car details in your signature line. I 'assume' you have a MkIV but don't know for sure.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Paparazzi's Avatar
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    I had originally planned to get the Breeze set for my MkIII - I thought the standard set looked too high (and seems further exaggerated by the thinner MkIV bar). When it came time to fit though, I found that the angle of the third leg fitting made it such that I had to cut 1 1/2" off my hoop to get it to fit. Ended up with the top of the hoop being 13 3/4" above the body and a look that I was very happy with.

    I haven't done a broomstick test - I'm 5'11" but with the seats mounted to the floor I know I sit far lower in the car than many others that I've seen. My seats also seem to have less padding than one other MkIII I've sat in which also leads to a lower seating position.

    Is there a 'correct' height? A quick Google search shows Kirkhams being 14 1/2".
    Last edited by Paparazzi; 12-29-2017 at 09:22 AM.
    FFR6243RD, MkIII, 3.55, IRS, pin-drive width, carb'd 351W, T5, 1/2 dropped butt, Fortes hydraulic clutch, deep dish AC-III wheels by Team III. 9 year build; NY registered 7/18/2016 - "Sweet 16" winner at 2016 Taconic State Nationals 5 days later ... in 'rough as hell' gel coat for the foreseeable future! Build Blog - Leave me a comment!

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  7. #7
    #9160 BB767's Avatar
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    Just did that yesterday! The fit of the rear bar was just loose enough that I could trim one inch off of each end of the hoop. That little bit made it look a lot better (IMO).
    MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands

  8. #8
    Unconventional Builder Joee's Avatar
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    There is a reason for the height of the rollbar its called the broomstick test. In track days and 1/4 mile if you place a straight edge (broomstick) from top of wind shield to top of roll bar your head in a helmet must be below the stick. You are also putting your head in danger of hitting the ground on a rollover.
    Roadster Mk3 5294, 302 Comp XE276HR cam, AFR 185 heads, 650 Quick fuel carb, Air Gap intake, T-5 3.55 gear Levy Upper & Lower Front and Rear control arms Purch Jan 2008 Tagged Mar 2012 Best ET 12.14 @113** SOLD 4/8/18 **
    YouTube Videos: Current performance - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7c...86xO3U4l4RtVMQ Older build - http://www.youtube.com/user/joeembery#p/u My Pics:
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  9. #9
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    As for looks and aesthetics, probably the best thing I've done for the build is add the Breeze stainless roll bar (polished). I tried to figure out how to modify the FFR MK4 roll bar to get the look better, but just couldn't do it. The Breeze unit had the look I wanted. The bigger tube, shorter stance, rearward rake and polished stainless finish all make it a great upgrade. It's more money (as are all things on these cars) and more work (as are all things on these cars), but the look is well worth it. It's rock solid as well.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  10. #10
    Senior Member Higgybulin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    As for looks and aesthetics, probably the best thing I've done for the build is add the Breeze stainless roll bar (polished). I tried to figure out how to modify the FFR MK4 roll bar to get the look better, but just couldn't do it. The Breeze unit had the look I wanted. The bigger tube, shorter stance, rearward rake and polished stainless finish all make it a great upgrade. It's more money (as are all things on these cars) and more work (as are all things on these cars), but the look is well worth it. It's rock solid as well.
    Now it looks like you cut your own holes, if factory five cuts the holes does the Breeze bar fit in them?
    Higgy

  11. #11
    Senior Member dpariso's Avatar
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    I like the look of the Breeze much better. I have the FFR ones...looks way too tall. I assume the Breeze ones would not match up with the holes from the FFR?
    IMG_1987.JPG

  12. #12
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    I installed the Breeze bars (DS & PS) 4 years ago and still like them better than the stock FFR. I've also received positive comments from other FFR owners about them.
    They were a little more work to install, but I think they retain the FFR holes (I cut my own) and Russ Thompson makes a real nice set of bezels for them.
    I also had mine polished by a pro (more work / cost / hassle) but it's once & done and they look great.
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  13. #13
    Senior Member Paparazzi's Avatar
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    See here for a thread all about roll bar height with regard to what it's actually for.
    FFR6243RD, MkIII, 3.55, IRS, pin-drive width, carb'd 351W, T5, 1/2 dropped butt, Fortes hydraulic clutch, deep dish AC-III wheels by Team III. 9 year build; NY registered 7/18/2016 - "Sweet 16" winner at 2016 Taconic State Nationals 5 days later ... in 'rough as hell' gel coat for the foreseeable future! Build Blog - Leave me a comment!

    Register your car with the Factory Five Cars Rule! mobile app available from the app store

  14. #14
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiggyMK4#???? View Post
    Now it looks like you cut your own holes, if factory five cuts the holes does the Breeze bar fit in them?
    Higgy
    Quote Originally Posted by dpariso View Post
    I like the look of the Breeze much better. I have the FFR ones...looks way too tall. I assume the Breeze ones would not match up with the holes from the FFR?
    IMG_1987.JPG
    The holes were already cut by FFR. They needed to be opened up some to accommodate the bigger tube, and because of the rake rearward, the two forward holes (especially the inboard one) needed to be opened up on the rear edge of the hole. But it works just fine.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  15. #15
    Curmudgeon mikeinatlanta's Avatar
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    I decided to run two configurations with removable bars. One set for looks and one set for real protection.

    DSC00451.JPGDSC00458.JPGDSC00470.JPG
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Please put some car details in your signature line. I 'assume' you have a MkIV but don't know for sure.
    sorry Craig, my bad, I have a MKII

  17. #17
    Unconventional Builder Joee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeinatlanta View Post
    I decided to run two configurations with removable bars. One set for looks and one set for real protection.

    DSC00451.JPGDSC00458.JPGDSC00470.JPG
    I really like the cage especially if it is removable. i am assuming you have welding skills and you fabbed that up yourself?
    Last edited by Joee; 12-30-2017 at 10:23 AM.
    Roadster Mk3 5294, 302 Comp XE276HR cam, AFR 185 heads, 650 Quick fuel carb, Air Gap intake, T-5 3.55 gear Levy Upper & Lower Front and Rear control arms Purch Jan 2008 Tagged Mar 2012 Best ET 12.14 @113** SOLD 4/8/18 **
    YouTube Videos: Current performance - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7c...86xO3U4l4RtVMQ Older build - http://www.youtube.com/user/joeembery#p/u My Pics:
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  18. #18
    Curmudgeon mikeinatlanta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joee View Post
    I really like the cage especially if it is removable. i am assuming you have welding skills a you fabbed that up yourself?
    I have a welder but claiming skill would be a huge mistake. I can bend the crap out of some tubes though. Look close and you'll see welded and ground flat on the street stuff and only tacs on the cage. Welds for the cage will be done by a tig artist. Cage is 8 point bolt in.
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

  19. #19

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    I lowered mine by grinding off the spot welds and let the bars slide down so that they bottomed out on the frame.

    Roughly 1 3/8" - 1 1/2" is where they landed which allowed me some wiggle room to adjust them prior to drilling and bolting.

    You can see them in the attached video towards the end:

    https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-29-2017 at 05:39 PM.

  20. #20
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fhp1154! View Post
    sorry Craig, my bad, I have a MKII
    Over the years quite a few have shortened the roll bars. Best I remember you can get maybe 1/2 inch and they will till fit together w/ some persuasion. More than that and you would need to cut/re-weld the rear mount as it will need to move forward. Also need to re-position the hole in the body for the rear leg.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  21. #21
    Curmudgeon mikeinatlanta's Avatar
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    As an FYI: If you choose to lower the bar and alignment of the down tube becomes an issue. You can put a small amount of bend right at the body line and it is very difficult to see. You can also slightly realign the down tube mount at the frame by putting a long tube in the mount and bending just a bit. It's not that strong.
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

  22. #22
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    I like the look of the Breeze bars and regret not using them. I have noticed that with chrome FFR bars, the height is visually more punctuated. Initially, my FFR bars were gloss black and I had them re-powder coated in a 20% matte black. Against my Ford magnetic gray body, the height isn’t as obvious...

    Chris
    Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.

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  23. #23
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    Check out ffcars.com and search roll bar mods. There are a few guys who have done it. I will also be modifying mine.good luck. Ken

  24. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeinatlanta View Post
    I decided to run two configurations with removable bars. One set for looks and one set for real protection.

    DSC00451.JPGDSC00458.JPGDSC00470.JPG
    Did you ever get approval on the connectors?

  25. #25
    Curmudgeon mikeinatlanta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob_BCC View Post
    Did you ever get approval on the connectors?
    LOL. Good memory! Let's see... Spoke with NHRA tech, SCCA, NASA. Responses were pretty much universal. "Um, I don't know, but those are pretty cool". "I'll have to do some checking, but they should be ok". "Never seen those before". "Where did you get those?" "Those are billet chromolly?".

    All in all not one guy willing to commit ahead of time and not one willing to say no. I finally gave up. Figure I'll build a history non sanctioned until finding someone willing to buy off on it. One thing is for sure. The cage is far beyond what most cobras run so I'll be able to play at a wide range of venues if desired. The only place the cage clearly violates rules is LSR sanctioning bodies.
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

  26. #26
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    2015 small.jpg

    I think this was a 2.5 cut on the front legs almost 3 on the back leg.

  27. #27
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    I've cut mind by 2 inches,used the 2 inch. bar on my MK1V, re positioned the back support,(easy job & worth the effort)
    When I ordered my kit, ask not to cut the roll bar holes,knew I would shorten the roll bar

  28. #28
    Unconventional Builder Joee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeinatlanta View Post
    LOL. Good memory! Let's see... Spoke with NHRA tech, SCCA, NASA. Responses were pretty much universal. "Um, I don't know, but those are pretty cool". "I'll have to do some checking, but they should be ok". "Never seen those before". "Where did you get those?" "Those are billet chromolly?".

    All in all not one guy willing to commit ahead of time and not one willing to say no. I finally gave up. Figure I'll build a history non sanctioned until finding someone willing to buy off on it. One thing is for sure. The cage is far beyond what most cobras run so I'll be able to play at a wide range of venues if desired. The only place the cage clearly violates rules is LSR sanctioning bodies.
    Looking at this article and your pics probably not going to cut it. Seems you need tube notching where the tubes come together.
    http://www.dragzine.com/project-cars...nt-roll-cages/

    If the cage is ok, certified down to 8.50 cars it will be good enough for any other Motorsports racing.
    Roadster Mk3 5294, 302 Comp XE276HR cam, AFR 185 heads, 650 Quick fuel carb, Air Gap intake, T-5 3.55 gear Levy Upper & Lower Front and Rear control arms Purch Jan 2008 Tagged Mar 2012 Best ET 12.14 @113** SOLD 4/8/18 **
    YouTube Videos: Current performance - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7c...86xO3U4l4RtVMQ Older build - http://www.youtube.com/user/joeembery#p/u My Pics:
    http://s207.photobucket.com/user/Joe...?sort=6&page=1

  29. #29
    Curmudgeon mikeinatlanta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joee View Post
    Looking at this article and your pics probably not going to cut it. Seems you need tube notching where the tubes come together.
    http://www.dragzine.com/project-cars...nt-roll-cages/

    If the cage is ok, certified down to 8.50 cars it will be good enough for any other Motorsports racing.
    We were talking about the billet chromoly tube connectors, but I have no idea what you meant with what you posted. Care to clarify? Didn't read the article, gave up at about 30 popups.
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

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