Since I've now broken (2) FFR throttle cable wires in a 2 week timeframe it's time for mechanical throttle linkage I think! With the Forte setup do the mounts go through just the aluminum firewall or into the frame cross member? Installation seems pretty straight forward or am I wrong?
Mounts go just through the aluminum firewall, as low as possible to the frame. Some folks grind the washers a bunch to get 1/8" to 1/4" lower. Those with the stock F5-provided firewall often fabricate a stiffening plate; if you've got a thicker firewall (like from FFMetal) no stiffener is required. One addition to Forte's kit I recommend are some collars to keep the lever arms and pivot rod from sliding around. I used these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Also, you may find you need a drift pin through the lever arm and into the pivot rod to keep the arms from slipping (I did). Forte already drills the hole in the arm for you.
You can see the collars below, as well as the drift pin on the foot box lever arm.
Installation is easy on a new build; on a completed car, not so much. Still very much doable though. The trickiest part is making sure the lever arm inside the foot box clears the aluminum above.
John
Last edited by phileas_fogg; 01-02-2018 at 12:13 PM.
Glad I can help. You're going to love the linkage. I especially like that I can move the connecting rods up and down in the slots and dial the throttle response down (or up if you've got the driving experience).
Mounts go just through the aluminum firewall, as low as possible to the frame. Some folks grind the washers a bunch to get 1/8" to 1/4" lower. Those with the stock F5-provided firewall often fabricate a stiffening plate; if you've got a thicker firewall (like from FFMetal) no stiffener is required. One addition to Forte's kit I recommend are some collars to keep the lever arms and pivot rod from sliding around. I used these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Also, you may find you need a drift pin through the lever arm and into the pivot rod to keep the arms from slipping (I did). Forte already drills the hole in the arm for you.
You can see the collars below, as well as the drift pin on the foot box lever arm.
Installation is easy on a new build; on a completed car, not so much. Still very much doable though. The trickiest part is making sure the lever arm inside the foot box clears the aluminum above.
John
Hi John.
I have the same linkage from Forte. I will start working on this soon. There is't really clear manual/instructions. Thanks for posting this pic! Can you please post couple more, especially the part that attaches to the carburetor (my case).
I tend to work easier with pictures
Mounts go just through the aluminum firewall, as low as possible to the frame. Some folks grind the washers a bunch to get 1/8" to 1/4" lower. Those with the stock F5-provided firewall often fabricate a stiffening plate; if you've got a thicker firewall (like from FFMetal) no stiffener is required. One addition to Forte's kit I recommend are some collars to keep the lever arms and pivot rod from sliding around. I used these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Also, you may find you need a drift pin through the lever arm and into the pivot rod to keep the arms from slipping (I did). Forte already drills the hole in the arm for you.
You can see the collars below, as well as the drift pin on the foot box lever arm.
Installation is easy on a new build; on a completed car, not so much. Still very much doable though. The trickiest part is making sure the lever arm inside the foot box clears the aluminum above.
John
Hi John,
You mention stiffeners and the firewall but in the picture it appears the mounts are going through the 2 X 2 frame member. Is that just an illusion or did you actually mount them to the frame?
Ditto on more pictures please, do you have any of the linkage in the foot box and pedal attachment points?
Dave
Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
Greenhorn and doing the best I can
My photos are at: My Flickr acct
Videos are at: YouTube Videos
Since I've now broken (2) FFR throttle cable wires in a 2 week timeframe
This is a pretty rare occurrence. I don't think I ever broke a throttle cable. Before changing anything, I would try and figure out why that happened, and then fix it.
Note: Subsequent to this last picture, I moved the rod end down in the slot on the lever arm so that I get less throttle response. In other words, it takes a lot of pedal movement to get a little throttle body movement. I also added throttle return springs at the throttle body (it's patently unsafe to rely on the throttle body spring to bring you back to idle) with a bit of stretch to stiffen the throttle pedal.
Last edited by phileas_fogg; 01-02-2018 at 02:55 PM.
mine goes through my .125" firewall. It has a drop area below the 2"x2" tube on the engine bay side that I mounted it onto. Brake line covers the threaded rod going to the Fitech.
I got most of the parts from McMaster after finding a thread about it on the other forum. The 3/8"-24 socket head capscrews and dowels to do the test fit came from HomeDepot.
Dave
Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
Greenhorn and doing the best I can
My photos are at: My Flickr acct
Videos are at: YouTube Videos
Since I've now broken (2) FFR throttle cable wires in a 2 week timeframe...
Sounds like you forget to add a throttle stop for the pedal..or the quality of the cables has gone down hill badly? I'm still using my original cable from 7 years ago.
FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010
The third press of my accelerator pedal and the FFR provided cable popped out of the ball-stud that attached the cable to the accelerator. I'd been warned about this happening and had intended to add a second set screw, but rather than always wondering if it was going to happen while at the top of a mountain pass, I just swapped the cable for a Lokar setup that uses a clevis to attach to the accelerator. I'm going to see how this works, but based on the look and feel of the Lokar cable, I don't expect to have any issues with it.
A quick note on the reason the linkage rod needs to be as low as possible. See John's pic in post #2. Look at the firewall just to the right of the blue tape and see the three rivet holes in a line going off to the right. These are where the top of the footbox is attached. See how close the top of the lever is going to be to that top piece? As you put together the rod from the pedal to that lever be sure that it also clears the foot box top. Some times it's a good idea to install the rod to the right side (as we are looking at it in this pic) of the lever.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Sounds like you forget to add a throttle stop for the pedal..or the quality of the cables has gone down hill badly? I'm still using my original cable from 7 years ago.
AC Bill,
Suggestions for a throttle stop? The wire pulled out of the pedal ball-stud twice, trying again with Loc-tite and 2 set screws, we'll see how it works! One more try, a throttle stop is definitely necessary...
AC Bill,
Suggestions for a throttle stop? The wire pulled out of the pedal ball-stud twice, trying again with Loc-tite and 2 set screws, we'll see how it works! One more try, a throttle stop is definitely necessary...
Mine isn't on the road yet.. so.. just offering some help.
Here is what I did. Simply drilled a large hole through the chassis mount, and throttle plate. Then but a bolt with 2 nuts behind the pedal arm. Took a few tries to get it set just right.
My throttle setup as you can see has some spacers to pull it up a bit closer. Helped me get the pedal where I wanted it with relation to the brake. (using a '98 pedal box and gas pedal)
Well hopefully your cable itself, isn't cut to short, as that would certainly wreak havoc.
I added a throttle stop to the frame on the lower firewall, behind the throttle pedal. I made it adjustable so I could set it up so the cable would never be stressed, but would still obtain WOT (wide open throttle). Getting it the correct height was a two person job, as one needs to be under the hood, to hold the throttle wide open, while the other adjusts the stop.
You can see the one I made in the attached picture.
It does fasten low on the aluminum panel. Also helps to add sleeves to the shaft to keep it from sliding. The Russ Thompson pedal makes a better fit with this linkage imo. Good luck.
JRL16
Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.
#8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater
Hi Guys,
I've been supplying a dual throttle return spring kit with each mechanical linkage kit for $179.00. I also have optional stainless steel ruland split collars. I designed it not to need them but some want 1 split collar and others want 2 collars.
In stock and ready to ship.
Other option is AC pedal pads that bolt to the wilwood pedals. Look great and narrower than the stock pedal pads from wilwood. Excellent option for the narrow footbox!!!
Mike Forte: Forte's Parts Connection / Framingham, Mass. 01702 / 508 875 0016 / [email protected] / fortesparts.com / Facebook Instagram: @fortespartconnection Est: 1981 dealing performance parts to build your dream car. A REAL SPEED SHOP with parts, price & knowledge. Developer of the early Ford & FE Tremec and Mustang firewall adjustable quadrant kits, external slave clutch release conversions & cable release conversions. Tremec Elite, FORD RACING & QUICKTIME DISTRIBUTOR!
Another solution to the tight "S" curve in the cable (which may be the cause of your issues) is to just mount the carb. backwards on the manifold. Then you can just route the cable around the front of the carb. and have a gradual curve in the cable. I have had mine hooked up that way for about 6 years.
Only downside is when I went to fire up the car for the first time, I diligently filled up the Holley float bowl on the front of the carb. Unfortunately, I forgot that was now the rear bowl of the carb. and it took a little grinding of the starter before my old mind determined my mistake.
Jwebb, Just an observation as I haven't begun a build yet, a gentle curve to the cable (Instead of the S curve) would reduce stress and you could attach it to the underside of the throttle linkage. (With a return spring of course). Would you need to reverse the carb?
SerpantFL,
In my opinion, without reversing the carb I would think having the cable pull on the lower section of the linkage will require more effort. The upper leg provides more leverage to move the throttle linkage. Just my observation, perhaps others with more experience can weigh in...
This is a pretty rare occurrence. I don't think I ever broke a throttle cable. Before changing anything, I would try and figure out why that happened, and then fix it.
I agree. Something is WRONG if you broke two cables.
Also. whether you use a cable or linkage, you need to put a throttle stop under the pedal. Also do not just put a bolt through the bracket that is down there. It is very thin and will bend. I used two pieces of steel and sandwiched it in. Not having a stop can cause things to break or bend. It can also cause excessive wear on the carb or TB base plate shaft.
Just finished installing the mechanical throttle linkage from Forte's. Man what a difference! Looks 100% better. Operates WAY smoother. MUCH more responsive. I am going to love it! Used the stock pedal as it seems to work fine. Got longer stainless bolts to go through the 2 X 2 frame, very solid mounting, makes for absolutely no play in the mechanics. Used the supplied dual return spring setup after fabricating a mount for them. Adjusted the linkage so the pedal arm hits the frame as the injection unit hits full throttle, built in stop! This setup feels safer to me as well, no frayed or kinked cables, no funky cable ends held on with set screws, nothing snaking around the engine in "S" turns. I am SO glad you guys suggested this upgrade!
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Originally Posted by phileas_fogg
