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Thread: Stock WRX Engine Tilt

  1. #1

    Stock WRX Engine Tilt

    Can anyone with an engine still in a donor or in a street-able WRX measure the tilt of the engine, front-to-rear?

  2. #2
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    The 818 mounts are off by at least 1 1/4". That's how much I raised mine just to achieve a slight (<2 deg) tilt towards the rear. I also had to move my engine forward 1" to align the trans stub shaft with my wheel centerline. This should've never been necessary. I believe it is a large contributor to the engine oiling problems. Jmo.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by lance corsi View Post
    The 818 mounts are off by at least 1 1/4". That's how much I raised mine just to achieve a slight (<2 deg) tilt towards the rear. I also had to move my engine forward 1" to align the trans stub shaft with my wheel centerline. This should've never been necessary. I believe it is a large contributor to the engine oiling problems. Jmo.
    You are 100 percent correct, and from my recent testing it is worse than I originally thought. With a near-level oil pan, and assuming 3 qts while running, oil starts to leave the pan at 0.6g. With the 818’s 7.5 degree forward tilt, oil starts to leave at just 0.2g! It is proving to be a bit of a stumbling block for my oil control device.

    I like your 2 degree rearward tilt: in the real world, heavy cornering loads come after heavy braking loads, so a slight rearward tilt gives a little more buffer for the liquid mass’s forward movement.

    Did you ever measure the engine’s tilt while it was in the donor car?

  4. #4
    Senior Member SixStar's Avatar
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    Using a 6MT mount on a 5MT trans makes the angle slightly better.
    Owner/builder - AEM Intakes 818R #85

  5. #5
    Where are you measuring the tilt/what is the linear reference point you are using? I'm at a point in my build that I could implement a solution if required.
    Thanks!

  6. #6
    First, I misstated the 818's forward engine tilt: It is actually 3.5 degrees not 7.5 degrees. Better, but still not at all desirable.

    SixStar - thanks, I will look into that!

    mistasherm - I am using the top of the cylinder head for reference.

    For my car, I am going to raise the front of the engine about 1.25" with motor mount adapters. This will cause interference with my clutch slave cylinder and the rear frame's upper truss, though it is a relatively easy fix to weld in additional bracing on top of it, then notch it out. I will then investigate SixStar's idea with the 6 spd's transmission mount to lower the rear of the transmission/engine assembly a bit more.

  7. #7
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    My measurement was taken on top of the head where the intake runners bolt on. I didn't change my trans mount and I'm running a 5 sp.
    if anyone is interested, taller motor mounts will allow clearance for shifter rods instead of running cables. I've already done this and you wouldn't believe the crisp definition between gears. It was worth the pain.

  8. #8
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    Some day I'm going to add up all the modifications I made on my car. They are many and I believe I've fixed most every flaw in the FFR design. Of course, I won't know until I drive it!

  9. #9
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    My situation is very different, but I did lower my transmission quite a bit. I just removed most of the rubber from the factory 5spd mount, put the top and bottom steel pieces 1/2” apart and filled it with urathane. Looks like a Factory mount, but probably 1” lower.
    Adam __________________ Instagram @brap818
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    My widebody 13b-REW powered build thread

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Canadian818 View Post
    My situation is very different, but I did lower my transmission quite a bit. I just removed most of the rubber from the factory 5spd mount, put the top and bottom steel pieces 1/2” apart and filled it with urathane. Looks like a Factory mount, but probably 1” lower.
    That sounds interesting. What urethane product did you use?

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by lance corsi View Post
    Some day I'm going to add up all the modifications I made on my car. They are many and I believe I've fixed most every flaw in the FFR design. Of course, I won't know until I drive it!
    Lol!!! Lance, you don’t have a 818, you have a one-off Corsi Special! Love your dedication.

    Any chance you can share a few pics of your shifter rods?

  12. #12
    This looks like it should do the trick for shortening up the transmission mount.

    http://www.suspension.com/blog/do-it...ement-inserts/

  13. #13
    I did this with the 5MT trans mount to give a more favorable engine / trans angle and to give me more room between the engine and the firewall

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post289163

    It is easy to modify the factory mount and the results are great!
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6

  14. #14
    Is this more of an issue on the track vs a strictly street driven 818s

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Blwalker105 View Post
    Lol!!! Lance, you don’t have a 818, you have a one-off Corsi Special!
    I used to drive a Shelby charger...I think "Corsi 818" has a nice ring to it!!

  16. #16
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blwalker105 View Post
    That sounds interesting. What urethane product did you use?
    Pretty sure it was 3m windshield urathane. I did it much like hobby racer did in his link, but I did it first, haha. But I don’t know if it was my idea or if I copied it, sometimes I forget what I’ve modified, this build has been going forever.
    Adam __________________ Instagram @brap818
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    My widebody 13b-REW powered build thread

  17. #17
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    One thing I forgot to mention is that the benefit of raising your engine is threefold. First, it allows enough room to pass solid shift linkage from firewall to transmission. I've done this and it is possible. Second, it gives more clearance between the head and the frame, which will facilitate keeping the exhaust tucked up above the frame. I still haven't plumbed mine but I think I made my job much easier. And lastly, but most important would be the tilt to keep the oil sumps at proper attitude. The trans oiling will benefit too!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbomacncheese View Post
    I used to drive a Shelby charger...I think "Corsi 818" has a nice ring to it!!
    I'm just following my nose! Actually, I've been metalworking since 1987, and am still struggling with the level of workmanship I like to see. Nothing is easy for me. I've melted miles of rod but still learn from every bead. I've never had a project that challenges every level, every discipline in order to finish and make right. I had my first encounter with working fiberglass on this project! Also, I finally got to apply some of my engineering into my own project. I've learned a lot. I really hope FFR is listening to its customers and puts forth the little effort involved to help make this great little giant killer even better.
    Btw, thanks for the nod of approval, but I've a long long way to go before being comparable to Mr Shelby!

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