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Thread: 17,000 miles and going on my 5th steering rack. Who makes the best one?

  1. #1
    Senior Member NiceGuyEddie's Avatar
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    17,000 miles and going on my 5th steering rack. Who makes the best one?

    Chronological timeline in miles:

    My first steering rack was from the donor. I spent a lot of time cleaning it up. It lasted about 1000 miles and started leaking at the hard line connections.

    My second steering rack was from Autozone. I got the faster ratio. It was "rebuild blue" - the whole thing was painted, so I spray painted it black. This one lasted about 5,000 miles and it started leaking.

    The third steering rack was from Autozone, it's lifetime guarantee so they gave me another one no questions asked. It was all black. This one lasted about 5,000 miles.

    Frustrated, my 4th steering rack was from Breeze automotive. I got a full cash refund from Autozone of about $110 so I put it towards the Breeze unit, which I think was about $375. The quality was MUCH better, even the outside of the casting was better quality.

    After about 5,000 miles on the Breeze rack, it's leaking and the p/s boot is filled with power steering fluid.

    Now I need a 5th rack, plus another trip to the alignment shop.

    I have rubber steering rack bushings, they are not the OEM ones but the harder ones, but it's not like I have the solid metal ones that might cause more vibration and stress on the rack.

    Who makes the best rack?

  2. #2
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Man, I don't know what to tell ya' Eddie and can only cite my own experience... I have about 25K on my remanufactured Autozone rack and have used them on customer builds (some of those are approaching 20K miles) with absolutely no issues.

    Jeff

  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Something isn't right. Maybe pump pressure too high? I'm real happy with the Unisteer rack Breeze sells. But the others should be OK too. Certainly for more miles than you're getting.
    Last edited by edwardb; 06-30-2021 at 05:44 AM.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    I would check the pressure from the pump it should be less than 1000 psi using a rack and pinion to keep from blowing the seals

    I have mine set at about 700 psi 5000 miles so far with a rack from auto zone and no issues so far stay away from AGR rackS

    I would also consider adding an oil cooler if you do not have one

    Rick
    Last edited by Itchief; 01-15-2018 at 12:30 AM.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    I've got almost 25k on mine too (rebuilt Autozone unit). I've heard the Honda PS fluid is the best and might help. Also, maybe add a Heidts valve to reduce the pressure and allow you to tune the assist.
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  6. #6
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    Eddie,

    If you are using any thing that is FORD or a similar "copy" of a FORD rack and blowing out seals, your pressure is way to high. Either cut the spring for the pump pressure regulator (many posts on this subject) or get a Heidts pressure restrict valve to put in line with the pressure line.
    Factory FORD racks don't really need more then about 800#-900# to function. With our light cars, you could probably reduce that a few hundred more and be good-to-go.
    I can't help with what is exact for your installation, I have manual steering (Flaming River - 20:1, feels like power) in my car.

    NO chance you have the lines crossed, right? That would be a rack killer . . .
    You shouldn't be blowing out seals no matter what you're doing with the car (Auto X, track, etc.).

    FWIW, ask yourself, how many cars out there with factory PS have over 100K miles with no issues?

    Doc

    Hope to see ya at HB this year . . .
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  7. #7
    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
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    Wow that is a lot of racks to go through. As others have already said, there must be a pressure issue. You have a lot of patience replacing five, I would have switched to manual after the third.
    Kyle

    Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017. Sold in 08/2018 and totally regret it.

  8. #8
    Senior Member NiceGuyEddie's Avatar
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    Team:

    I have the cut-spring mod, so that's reduced pressure to the rack. The power steering pump is an AGR/Mustang style pump. It's probably my 3rd pump, it leaks a very little bit but I've used the Lucas Power Steering pump stop-leak recommended by Greg_M. To my surprise, it definitely helped the p/s leak quite a bit. I don't imagine the additive would make the seals on the rack worse.

    Well all I can say is that this sucks.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    You may have a problem with excessive heat causing the parts to fail adding a oil cooler may help

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  10. #10
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NiceGuyEddie View Post
    Team:

    I have the cut-spring mod, so that's reduced pressure to the rack. The power steering pump is an AGR/Mustang style pump. It's probably my 3rd pump, it leaks a very little bit but I've used the Lucas Power Steering pump stop-leak recommended by Greg_M. To my surprise, it definitely helped the p/s leak quite a bit. I don't imagine the additive would make the seals on the rack worse.

    Well all I can say is that this sucks.
    Man, that really does suck. If I had gone through three pumps and five racks I'd seriously be thinking of going to manual steering.

    Dave
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  11. #11
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    If you've killed multiple pumps and racks you don't need to go to manual, you need to find the problem because something is definitely wrong. I don't know what it is though... What are you using for hoses?

    Jeff

  12. #12
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    If you've killed multiple pumps and racks you don't need to go to manual, you need to find the problem because something is definitely wrong. I don't know what it is though... What are you using for hoses?

    Jeff
    Jeff,

    I don't disagree. Going manual would be my solution, not necessarily the best solution. So, what causes PS to fail? Pressure, heat, improper parts/fluid/installation.

    - Pressure would generally cause a rack failure.
    - Heat could cause a failure in either the pump or the rack.
    - What aspects of the installation could cause failures? Proper fluid? Lines reversed? Fluid level?

    Reversed lines would manifest almost immediately, not work for months before failing. Could there be contaminates in the system? If the pump and the rack haven't been replaced together, there may be contaminates in the system.

    Just some thoughts.

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 01-15-2018 at 03:34 PM.
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
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  13. #13
    Papa's Avatar
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    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
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  14. #14
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    Eddie,

    I don't know why I didn't ask this earlier, but any chance you have a mismatch between what the pump mfg. stated to use for oil and what the rack needs? Seals in the pump may need a certain type of oil and the seals in the rack might need a certain type of oil. Make sure they both use the same type. You can thank Papa for jarring my single brain cell and thinking of this after his post.
    The wrong oil in the rack would definitely cause the rack seals to blow out and then contaminate your entire system. It would have needed to be completely flushed out after every failure and refilled with fresh oil.

    Doc

    Quote: "If you've killed multiple pumps and racks you don't need to go to manual, you need to find the problem because something is definitely wrong."
    I absolutely agree . . . throwing money at an issue without resolution is just wrong. I know from past exercises for you, you have the worlds supply of patience but this isn't the time to constantly buy the same part, only to have this happen again . . .

    IF (and that's a big if), you do decide to convert to manual, you might want to talk to Eric Hanson first about doing an electric PS conversion - just a thought.
    Last edited by Big Blocker; 01-15-2018 at 09:53 PM.
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  15. #15
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    We are retrofitting an electric power steering kit in our car later this week hopefully. Always a nice option. Over kill for a car so light, we know. But it won't leak

  16. #16
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Lots of good potential causes identified above. As Papa suggested, contamination can be death to the power steering system. I've seen it enough that I recommend that at each engine oil change you also pump the PS reservoir and refill. Typically there is no filter on the PS system and by removing some fluid and refilling you at least remove some of the contaminants and dilute the contamination left behind.

    If you've lost that many racks and pumps you gotta ask if your system is full of nasty things that can damage parts and seals. At minimum, you should thoroughly flush the system before you place it back into service with another new rack or pump.

  17. #17
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    One thing you might consider getting the fluid tested. Here is a link to a company that you could contact but there also may be someone local to you. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/tests.php
    There website quotes $29 for an oil sample; it cost for steering fluid.

    Contamination can wreck havoc with hydraulic systems ... so the analysis would identify contaminants that should not be in the fluid.

    Is the cap on your reservoir or pump tight/sealed so water cannot get in the system? Water contamination could be causing a problem.

    Are there visible contaminants?

    Jeff K. asked about the hoses; are they new or old? Old ones could be breaking down especially if the fluid is contaminated.

    Have you talked to Mark at Breeze? He may be able to hook you up with the rack manufacturer to see if they can help.

    Ok now I am tapped out ...
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  18. #18
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    Eddie, I recommend replacing old hoses and thorough flushing of power steering system. I have experienced pressure variation problems due to very small debris particle (hose deterioration) finding it's way into small servo grooves. I rebuilt two perfectly good pumps until tiny bit of rubber appeared when blowing air thru servo. It's worth a try.
    358 SBC, Winters QC, Sweet mfg, Coleman, AP Racing, ARS, TKO 600, Fuel Safe

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by SelectivePC View Post
    We are retrofitting an electric power steering kit in our car later this week hopefully. Always a nice option. Over kill for a car so light, we know. But it won't leak
    What electric power steering kit do you plan to use?

    Thanks Dean

  20. #20
    Bill_VA's Avatar
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    I really don't know why people are hating on AGR racks. I've had mine for 9 years and not a single issue, not a drop. Sounds like you've got pressure issues, that must be the only reason 5 racks have failed. Using crap additives to cure a leak is the worst thing you could do. I have the AGR rack that's especially designed for Cobra replicas, otherwise you're using a rack designed for a much heavier car with different suspension components. I did a lot of homework and spent time on the phone with the guys at AGR and KRC to ensure the pump was meeting without exceeding the specs of the rack. My solution wasn't cheap but it's been flawless and works so very well. Here's what I did: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...onversion.html
    Non-donor - Engine Factory 351w/400hp - TKO500 - 3-Link - Cobra brakes - FFmetal - Wilwood pedals - FR500 wheels - NCPainter

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  21. #21
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    I bought an AGR rack when I started my build they charged my card the day I placed the order and then took four months to ship the rack. I purchased the rack directly from AGR because I called to try and verify which rack to order for the FFR. Tom at AGR convinced me that I needed a rack that was not offered with summit so I ordered the rack

    Once installed the rack had a clunky noise every time I turned the wheel which they tried to blame on the steering column

    Once I got the car on the road the rack had about ten degrees of play that they tried to talk me through fixing

    I had no luck trying to get them to replace the rack or refund my $500 because they took four months to ship the rack I couldn’t dispute the charge on the credit card

    Look up there reviews and complaints on line I wish I would have

    Rick
    Last edited by Itchief; 01-23-2018 at 10:17 PM.
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhuff View Post
    What electric power steering kit do you plan to use?

    Thanks Dean
    Going to figure that out later this week. I do a lot of powder coating work for him on the side for his E-racks/column assemblies.

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