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Thread: Header Bolt Torque/Sequence

  1. #1
    Senior Member jwebb's Avatar
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    Header Bolt Torque/Sequence

    FFR 351W Headers and aluminum heads, recommendation for torque value & sequence?
    MK4 #9121 - Complete kit - Stroked 351, T5x, 3.55 Rear End, 3-Link - Pickup 6/17/17, 1st start 12/2/17, Go-Kart 12/9/17, Road Worthy 4/27/18

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    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I will generally start at the center then work outward alternating back and forth. You're going to find it impossible to get a torque wrench on them so just try to give them all a consistent "oomph" (that is a well know engineering spec). You need to go back through and snug them after a couple of heat cycles and if you're using locking bolts don't engage them until you've done so.

    Jeff

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Ditto on Jeff's recommendation. However, I will add that unless your header bolts are zinc plated I recommend you use a zinc based antii-seize for aluminum heads. The zinc helps protect against galvanic corrosion so that when you need to remove them way down the road the aluminum is not corroded and you pull the aluminum threads out with the fasteners.

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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    You may also find that they are much easier to get to if you are under the car. You get a pretty clean shot at all of them. Of course there is the hassle of putting the car up on stands. Nothing is free.

  5. #5
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    I use stubby wrenches. I will link two together for some leverage.

  6. #6
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    Don't be surprised to find a few very loose after the first few heat cycles. It takes three or four cycles before tgey seem to stabilize.

  7. #7
    Unconventional Builder Joee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    I will generally start at the center then work outward alternating back and forth. You're going to find it impossible to get a torque wrench on them so just try to give them all a consistent "oomph" (that is a well know engineering spec). You need to go back through and snug them after a couple of heat cycles and if you're using locking bolts don't engage them until you've done so.

    Jeff
    the oomph is properly attained with a wrench that measures about 6 to 8 inches, not your 14" 1/2 in drive pry bar
    Roadster Mk3 5294, 302 Comp XE276HR cam, AFR 185 heads, 650 Quick fuel carb, Air Gap intake, T-5 3.55 gear Levy Upper & Lower Front and Rear control arms Purch Jan 2008 Tagged Mar 2012 Best ET 12.14 @113** SOLD 4/8/18 **
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    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joee View Post
    the oomph is properly attained with a wrench that measures about 6 to 8 inches, not your 14" 1/2 in drive pry bar
    That’s what she said.

    Sorry, could not - not swing at that slow pitch.
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    Senior Member jwebb's Avatar
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    LOL Thanks guys!!!
    MK4 #9121 - Complete kit - Stroked 351, T5x, 3.55 Rear End, 3-Link - Pickup 6/17/17, 1st start 12/2/17, Go-Kart 12/9/17, Road Worthy 4/27/18

  10. #10
    Senior Member 3yearplan's Avatar
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    "oomph" (that is a well know engineering spec)
    Followed by the German engineering term "goodentight"..
    Mark IV 7923 arrived 11-14-12
    DOHC 4.6L, Tremec 3650, 3 Link 8.8 w/3.73

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