What YOU Need...

[crash]

What My Race Shop currently offers for sale, and why you may need it…

1)Header Tank Kit

The header tank kit is probably THE most important item you can buy to add onto your FFR GTM, or any other custom built vehicle, if you want the OEM engine cooling system to function properly.

Problem:

This “upgrade kit” addresses a fundamental flaw in the design of the GTM vehicle cooling system layout. The OEM expansion/header tank is placed too low in the GTM, and too far away from the engine to be effective at venting the high point of the LS series of engines. It is for this reason alone that the Header Tank Kit was designed and offered, but the benefits don’t stop at making sure your engine does not go into a steam caused meltdown. Other benefits include the fact that the front tank can now be removed, which frees up valuable space for other items, and makes the front of the car look “cleaner”, it gives you a much more convenient location to fill the cooling system in the rear of the car, and it gives you a “fill it and forget it” type of situation as opposed to the rather complex “burping” or purging procedure that is outlined by FFR in the GTM manual.

Solution:

http://myraceshop.com/Header_Tank.html

We have spoken with and documented many GTM builders/drivers that never saw an issue for many miles, only to have this issue “come out of nowhere” and cause all kinds of grief. Due to the complexity and lack of room to maneuver in the GTM, it is highly recommended that this upgrade be done as a GTM is being built, but it certainly can be retrofitted to a finished GTM as well.

2)Heater Bypass Valve Kit

The Heater Bypass Valve Kit is another cooling system related part. While this upgrade is not considered a “must have” as the issue it solves can be dealt with by understanding how the A/C system works and adjusting settings accordingly, it does make the HVAC and the LS engines thermostat work as intended by both OEMs designs.

Problem:
The design of the HVAC system on the GTM, as well as many other OEM and aftermarket systems, works most efficiently in the “Off” and “Max A/C” modes when no hot cooling system fluid is circulating through the heater core in the HVAC under dash unit. To address this, an electrically actuated valve is put in line on the supply line to the heater core unit that stops fluid flow in the “Off” and “Max A/C” modes of operation. Unfortunately, for the LS series of engines, as well as many others, this causes an engine warm up problem. The problem is that the way the LS engine thermostat housing is designed, it requires constant flow through the heater inlet and outlet ports at the water pump in order to provide ample fluid flow to both sides of the thermostat so as the thermostat will open at the proper engine cooling fluid temperature. The valve that is provided by the HVAC manufacturer does not provide for this constant flow. Instead, it shuts flow of entirely when in the “Off” and “Max A/C” modes. Therefore, if you have the HVAC unit turned off and start the car, there will be no required flow to the “backside” of the thermostat, and therefore the thermostat will not open when the engine reaches operating temperature. Many times if the engine is revved up, or the car is driven while in the warm up period, then this issue is largely alleviated due to a very small bypass hole that comes standard on all properly speced LS thermostats. However, it is quite possible to overheat your engine by simply starting the engine and letting the car sit at an idle warming up with the HVAC controls either set to “Off” or “Max A/C”. It is for this specific reason that the Heater Bypass Valve Kit was designed and offered.

Solution:

http://myraceshop.com/Heater_Bypass_Valve.html

This kit allows both manufacturers goals to be addressed in the “Off” and “Max A/C” modes of operation. The four port valve stops fluid flow to the heater core when necessary, yet insures that fluid constantly flows back to the engine by bypassing the heater core cooling system fluid back to the thermostat housing instead of simply stopping its flow.

3)Suspension Shim Kit

Problem:
The Suspension Shim Kit Really addresses two issues within the GTM.
1) The Suspension Shim Kit, due to its design differences from the Corvette donated cam bolts, allows larger amounts of caster to be achieved in the front end of the GTM. This is particularly important in the Gen I cars as the amount of caster is limited to very small amounts due to the upper control arm mounting points, combined with the limited adjustability of the cam bolts.
2) The Suspension Shim Kit also addresses the fact that the cam bolts, as used in the GTM design, are almost impossible to tighten to the point that there is no “creep” from the proper adjustment due to the normal loading of the suspension under normal driving conditions.

Solution:

http://myraceshop.com/Alignment_Shims.html

It is not uncommon to see 3-3.5 degrees of caster being able to be adjusted into the suspension of a Gen I GTM when using these shims. Also, due to their design, once the correct shim is selected and the nut/bolt combination is tightened properly, there is virtually no way for the suspension to go out of alignment specs unless something bends or breaks elsewhere in the suspension.

4)CV Joints

www.myraceshop.com currently offers high quality, German made GKN/Lobro CV joints and related parts at outstanding prices.

Problem:
Whether you are using the Porsche transaxle with the Corvette donor axles, the Mendeola transaxle with the donor axles, or really any transaxle with any type of setup that uses the Corvette outer wheel hub, you will need to buy properly sized CV joints and related components that allow the wheels to be attached to the transaxle through a driveline.

Solution:
www.myraceshop.com has a wide range of items that will get the job done on a kit car!
This 2 CV 930 Kit will do the basic job of attaching the Corvette axles to the Porsche or Mendeola transaxle…

http://myraceshop.com/930_CV_Kit.html

While more challenging installs may need a transaxle output flange to wheel hub solution…

http://myraceshop.com/Stubs.html

Whatever you need to connect the outer Corvette hub to your transaxle of choice, using either Porsche style 930 or 935 CV joints, www.myraceshop.com has the parts for you.


Continued below...

[crash]

5)Power Steering Controller

This solution was developed by a collective effort by forum members on FFcars.com and the final design and manufacture of the parts was done by forum member Ian Anderson.


Problem:
Power steering is desirable on a car for a number of reasons. Whether it is because of trying to maneuver in tight parking lots at slow speeds, or for when the tuner wants to run large amounts of caster, whatever the reason, when steering effort becomes heavy, power steering is the answer. The problem is that unless the power steering is controlled somehow, the amount of assistance that is given by the system can actually increase with vehicle speeds where it would be desirable to decrease the amount of assistance given and felt by the driver of the vehicle. This problem can lead to drivers reporting a lack of “road feel” and “twitchiness” at high speeds with uncontrolled power steering systems.

Solution:
This Power Steering Controller allows the power steering system to be continuously adjusted through electronics to give the user defined, right amount of assistance, depending upon driving speeds.

http://myraceshop.com/Power_Steering_Controller.html

The way it works is this. Combined with an MR2 specific electric power steering pump and a properly fitting Mustang steering rack (both specific models are outlined in the instruction manual) this unit taps into a Corvette wheel speed sensor and using an algorithm that is adjustable by the user, reduces or increases the power steering pump speed to give more or less assistance based upon what the user defines in the unit. Programming is done by a simple four button interface, but a preprogrammed assist curve makes the unit usable without any end user programming. It’s a great solution to a difficult, yet common issue.

6)Exhaust Manifold Flanges

Problem:
Can’t find the matting flanges to your late model LS engines exhaust manifolds so that a high performance, gasketless installation can be fabricated? These are the answer…

Solution:

http://myraceshop.com/Exhaust_Pieces.html

Made of stainless steel, these will last forever. Maybe even longer than your GTM!

7)Stub Axles
These Stub Axles, while a part of the driveline solutions listed above, have become somewhat of a signature part for www.myraceshop.com.

Problem:
You have the need to attach your transaxle of choice to a Corvette wheel hub. You want all “standard” “off the shelf” parts for ease of future replacement as well as a reasonable initial cost.

Solution:

http://myraceshop.com/Stubs.html

Whether you need the smaller solution of the standard Corvette outer hubs, 930 CVs, and 4340 axles, or the ultimate in driveline strength of the ZR1 outer hubs, 935 CVs, and 300M axles, www.myraceshop.com has what you need. These driveline solutions are rated to 1200+ HP/TQ. Even when using race tires.

8)Tail Lights

www.myraceshop.com offers a number of different LED tail lights for the GTM and we are always looking for new alternatives.

Problem:
A race car doesn’t need all the functionality of the FFR supplied tail lights, and current draw can also be a factor. Also, the nature of incandescent bulbs makes them susceptible to damage with relatively light impact. If you happen to not be building a race car…well variety of choices is always a nice thing to have.

Solution:

http://myraceshop.com/GTM_LED_Tail_Lights.html

These LED tail lights reduce current draw, are much tougher, and get the job done for a reasonable price. We are always looking for new alternatives and will update this location accordingly when a new product has passed our testing program. Right now we are testing a direct replacement set of LED lights that will be DOT approved and yet keep all the FFR supplied lights functionality.

9)Fuel Pumps

Problem:
Need a quality fuel pump that will handle serious amounts of flow for a fuel injected engine? www.myraceshop.com offers the Bosch “044” pumps that are good to 700 HP. If you need even higher specs, then a dual pump setup is available for 1000+ HP setups.

Solution:

http://myraceshop.com/044_Fuel_Pump.html

These pumps are the “industry standard” and perform superbly for the price.



In addition to these great quality products, you will also find other resources at www.myraceshop.com like this “How To” video on CV joint prep.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZOCjwSXgkQ

Or this spreadsheet on pinouts for a 2008 LS3.

http://myraceshop.com/Reference/GTM-...Pin%20Outs.pdf

Future items and projects that are under development are:

Front and Rear Engine Mounting Plates for custom engine installs of LS engines with dry sump pumps.
Videos for how to design and build many items of a race car including engine, drivetrain, bodywork, suspension, and vehicle setup. All based around the wonderful GTM platform.
Highly functional rear wings, 500+ HP cam swap kit for the LS3, and various LED tail light designs are being evaluated for production RIGHT NOW, so check the website frequently for all the latest developments!

If you are still reading this...thanks fot taking the time!

[crash]

Just overnight I have had a couple PMs about this post. One thanking me for calling attention to the issues that I have listed above and the other one asking if there was anything else that I knew of that needed to be addressed.

Well, there ARE three other items that I think are "must haves". These would be the upgraded rear shock mounts that are specifically designed for the GTM and sold by Quick Racing Products, the aluminum fuel tanks sold by, IIRC both V Raptor Speed Works and Quick Racing Products, and the clutch pedal stop. No company, that I know of, has offered the clutch pedal stop yet, but it is pretty easy to setup on your own.

While there are plenty of other items available from www.myraceshop.com, as well as the other vendors, the clutch stop, aluminum fuel tanks, shock mounts, and the Header Tank Kit are the ones that, to me anyway, are "must haves" so you don't find yourself sitting by the side of the road with a disabled car...or worse.

A good seatbelt solution is also an area of concern, but it seems like most address this by simply putting in a racing harness, even though this, in almost all cases, is not a DOT approved setup.

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BUMP!!

Sorry if this bumping annoys anyone, but since the idea to have a couple stickied tabs specifically for vendors and what they offer has come and gone with no action by the powers that be running this forum, this is the best I can do...to just keep bumping what www.myraceshop.com offers every month to the top of the list.

As you can see, it is a lot of stuff to write over and over again...

[jjm]

What do you think is the easiest and most effective way to set up a clutch pedal stop on these cars is?

[crash]

I do have a clutch stop product that I have used previously that goes on the master cylinder, but in reality, I think the ones shown being created by welding a nut to the frame, and then screwing a bolt with another nut in for adjustability behind the clutch pedal in the foot box area is one of the best and cheapest solutions. See "the other forum" for pics.

[VD2021]

What do you think is the easiest and most effective way to set up a clutch pedal stop on these cars is?

This is a good thread with info on the clutch limiter/stopper. There is also some very good info in the "Links to $64K Questions
" Sticky.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-fact...edal-stop.html

[Cory Brown]

Just adding a little praise here! I asked crash a question last Friday and within the hour I had a response. Ordered the parts from him and they were on my door step when I got home today. It's good to have a stand up guy on the forum with such knowledge and care for customer satisfaction. Thanks again crash!

[crash]

Thanks Cory.

I am in the service industry, and it's a simple matter of treating others as I want to be treated. Sure I'm selling you parts, but many of them are available elsewhere, so it really comes down to a matter of service, IMHO.

[crash]

I have had a number of people inquiring about suspension alignment shim kits in the last couple months. The plater called me this morning and THEY ARE DONE!

So these are once again now available here...

http://www.myraceshop.com/Alignment_Shims.html

I have 25 sets that will be ready to ship come Tuesday, so get um while they're in stock!

[crash]

I got this question via PM, and thought I would share...

"Hi Crash,

Not trying be an ***, but is there a difference between your shim kit and the one that Pfadt offers beside price?

My thinking is that if your alignement shims offer a specific difference that is tailor made to the GTM, than maybe other forum members would like to know.

Anyway just a thought"

There are quite a few differences. Now I haven't checked the pfadt setup in about a year or so, but if they haven't changed anything, here are the issues.

First off is that there aren't enough shims in the pfadt kit to do an entire GTM, so you have to buy TWO pfadt kits to get the right amount of shims to do the job.

Second, their kit is made from individual shims. In other words, while one of their shims will do two positions per shim, the MRS kit shims will do 8 positions per shim, so you end up with a lot less extra shims laying around or in the tool box.

Their shims are aluminum and the MRS shims are steel.

The GTM specific kit includes new bolts that are specifically designed for the grip length required for the GTM. I am not sure the pfadt ones will work with the GTM as the Vette length is a bit different than the GTMs.

The MRS shims allow you to get just a bit more adjustment, although a grinder can be used on the pfadt shims to gain even a little more than the MRS shims, but then you could always do the same to the MRS shims as well. A little over 3 degrees of caster is common on a Gen I GTM when using the MRS shim kit.

So basically they are cheaper, stronger, provide more adjustability, and are a more compact setup that is designed specifically for the GTM.

Thanks for the question.

[mendo]

Hey Crash,
for the first time guy, do I use the stock washers to get it there and then change to the shims?

[crash]

Yes, this is the easiest way to "ball park" it. Use the eccentrics to get it close, and then mark them with a sharpie and transfer over to the correct shim. Any questions, please give me a call... six one nine seven five 8 eight three four 2.

[crash]

Just an FYI...We are getting slammed with solicitation calls EVERY DAY and for about the past two weeks. Apparently telling these people to take us off of their lists means nothing to them. In any event, if some of you have been trying to call www.myraceshop.com and have not been leaving messages, then we have not been getting back to you. So if you want to discuss something, please leave a short message, and someone will return your call promptly. Thanks.

[Cobra 61]

Hey, GTM and Corvette junkies:: Here are the plain and simple facts:
These are must need parts for your car and we have proved it again and again!
Shim kit: precision camber/caster set up that never goes away. At the track, it only takes a couple minutes to change to perfect choices/settings.
Axles: not one single failure at over 150 MPH under race conditions. No worry construction and parts
Header tank: Used the FFR set up and basically a crap shoot of over heating: in 5 years, not one overheat issue with Myraceshops kit.

THANK YOU MY RACE SHOP for providing these must have parts to make my GTM safe and worry free in these areas!

[crash]

Richard, as you know, I do my best to stress test these products regularly.

Thanks for the kind words.

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Another month gone by.

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ttt

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bump

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Whoops! Forgot last month.

TTT!

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Bump and a little heads up...

I was helping a guy out that said he was getting inconsistent readings when using the shim kit. The issue ended up being that while the guy was rotating the shim to the desired hole number, he was then putting the bolt through the WRONG HOLE. It is very important that the number hole you are looking for be above and to the left of the actual number on the shim. In other words, as it says in the instructions, the shim is oriented correctly when the number is correctly readable and in the lower right quadrant of the hole. Please pay particular attention to this.

[crash]

ttt

[Aceflo]

thanks for these posts Crash.

[crash]

No problem, thanks for reading them!

[crash]

Ttt

[The Stig]

I would like to take a second to let you guys know that the title of this thread isn't fluff designed just to sell a few items. Mike has done a great job in identifying problem items and coming up with solutions that will only save you tremendous headaches in the future.

You owe it to yourself to read through his web page, and take a look at what he is offering the GTM crowd. There are quite a few items that I've purchased from him without a second thought. Because we really do need them for the GTM build. The items are of high quality, and you will not be disappointed when you receive them.

My 2 cents.

Thanks for what you've done to help us out Mike. I for one, truly appreciate it.

Mike

[crash]

Thanks for the support Mike. It really is a labor of love, as you know with your project. No one is getting rich with these cars, but it is nice to have something that actually works correctly when it is done, and that is my goal...to help people build these cars in a way that will not discourage them from building another kit car down the road because of little issues that can turn into major problems.

[crash]

bump

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bump

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ttt.

[Aceflo]

Glad you bumped this....

[crash]

Wow, I dropped the ball on this for a couple of months. Sorry...or maybe some of you are happy because you are tired of seeing it!