The white wire some of you may notice in the first photo above is for the front side marker lamps. In my jurisdiction side marker lamps apparently are not supposed to come on with the DRL’s, they need to be wired into the tail lamp circuit so they only operate when the switch is in park or headlight mode.
Regulations. As long as they let me register it I’ll play ball with them.
Last edited by Pat Landymore; 02-28-2020 at 12:01 PM.
Reason: Correct typo
Do you have the newer chassis with multiple front suspension mount holes. Mine is very early (#15), so I am stuck with what I have. I hate the lowness of the grill and running board supports that barely clear my drive way, even at an angle approach. Not sure the demographic FFR was aiming at. I wish I had options to get mine higher also.
Ralph
Here’s a photo of my seat riser referred to a couple of days ago. 2” angle iron with enough overlap to bolt together. Makes installing the carpet much easier.
Mr Big Block is back in the truck. Will bolt him in fully tomorrow and begin on the (many) other tasks ahead. I may decide to rig up the engine temporarily just to fire him up briefly later in the week.
He’s a bit of a beast as was installing by myself.
Overall a fun day
It will be a whole lotta more motor when I start fabbing up a home made kit for an 88mm turbo I have sitting in the garage! LOL
Coming next week...
Cheers ��
Last edited by Pat Landymore; 03-12-2020 at 11:21 PM.
Reason: Add photo
Turbo kit fabrication is delayed a couple more days as I had to make a hard right turn with my plans. More parts arriving Monday from Summit that will reignite my imagination and get it back on track.
Meanwhile completed installing the hardline for the trans cooler.
So I go to install my brand new Performance World 150 Amp single wire alternator on ‘35 with the gorgeous new chrome alternator bracket I received (two days early) from Summit Racing.
What could possibly go wrong?
Oh wait a minute, it’s me! So plenty.
I had to “clearance grind” the alternator plus grind the heck out of the underside of the little bracket above the alternator plus drill the bolt hole larger so everything would play nice together. ⚡️
Once again, a five minute job was an hour and a half. I’m not laying blame, this just seems to be a typical day in the life when a guy is trapped in the aftermarket auto parts world. And again it gives me huge respect for the OEMs and how they build 500 cars in a single shift!!
Photos below. Must say, once done it does look great.
So I go to install my brand new Performance World 150 Amp single wire alternator on ‘35 with the gorgeous new chrome alternator bracket I received (two days early) from Summit Racing.
What could possibly go wrong?
Oh wait a minute, it’s me! So plenty.
I had to “clearance grind” the alternator plus grind the heck out of the underside of the little bracket above the alternator plus drill the bolt hole larger so everything would play nice together. ⚡️
Once again, a five minute job was an hour and a half. I’m not laying blame, this just seems to be a typical day in the life when a guy is trapped in the aftermarket auto parts world. And again it gives me huge respect for the OEMs and how they build 500 cars in a single shift!!
Photos below. Must say, once done it does look great.
Turbo drain line fabricated...which meant I had to un-dumb some of the turbo parts I’d purchased, turbo drain line to be specific. Think the photos will explain the sizing issue resolved.
I took the entire turbo kit off the truck today and slowly began finish welding it with plenty of checks for distortion and major movement.
Tomorrow’s task is modifying the passenger side exhaust manifold. This is due to me using an inverted drivers side manifold on the pass side of the truck. It makes an awesome and strong turbo mount, but due to how GM designed the Rat motor heads around 55 years ago, the bolt holes line up but the ports are ‘out’ by between 1/8 and 1/4”. So I’ll drill out the bolt holes a bit larger and then do some gasket matching type porting. I knew this going in almost a year ago when I decided to do a big block, now is the time for this task.
LSx guys ( me on my previous turbo LSx Mustang build) are lucky; you can flip manifolds around to your hearts content and everything still lines up.
Here’s what the hole saw was about...cutting a hole in my $1k turbo for the wastegate.
It’s on my barbecue for pre welding heat and post welding stress relief.
LOL
You bet I was!
Even more so post welding as I was listening for the sharp clinking sound of cast iron cracking as of course the turbo is made of the finest Chinesium alloy...
Didn’t hear any.
Honesty it welded up great with my cheap MIG so I think it’s quite decent metal.
Out in the shop now trying to figure out a nice transition from my 3.5” downpipe to one side of the stock FFR exhaust system. Don’t worry about back pressure, there is a plan in play for that!
What I’m trying to pull off is a transition pipe that can be readily removed, leaving the one muffler intact, allowing me to install a 3-1/2” open dump just ahead of the passenger side door.
May be trying for too much...a day or two of work and I’ll know what I can pull off.
Last edited by Pat Landymore; 04-07-2020 at 04:29 PM.
I’ve completed my day to day downpipe that ends in the FFR exhaust, added the loud valve to greatly reduce back pressure under boost, and made what I call my ‘Bad Pat’ downpipe, a 3-1/2” open end with no muffling exiting beside the passenger door. Anyone want to guess which one I like best?
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Originally Posted by Pat Landymore
