My Official GTM Build Thread!

[LCD Gauges]

Thank you to Michael (RumRunner) for taking a photo of his mini GTM model. The graphic looks amazing, and it will be a great
addition to the LCD cluster. I promise to take my own photo when I paint my mini model, but for now this will serve as an awesome
test icon.

Here are a couple of edited versions of the original that will be displayed when a door, hood, or hatch is open.
This icon will also appear when the sonor sensors are activated, or an LED signal is blown.

gtmicon_closed.jpggtmicon_open.jpg

[Presto51]

Tino,

Very cool indeed.

Guess I have to keep the dog of double dare in it's cage for a little longer

Ron

[LCD Gauges]

Was searching for diffuser designs, and came across this Toyota FT1 concept. Thought you might like to see; gorgeous car!

toyota-ft-1-concept-rear-view-on-road.jpgToyota-FT1-Concept-Detroit-Auto-Show-4.jpgToyota-FT-1-3.jpg

[Fraser D]

Was searching for diffuser designs, and came across this Toyota FT1 concept. Thought you might like to see; gorgeous car!

toyota-ft-1-concept-rear-view-on-road.jpgToyota-FT1-Concept-Detroit-Auto-Show-4.jpgToyota-FT-1-3.jpg

I have been looking at doing a double layered diffuser by installing short vertical fins in the same locations as the original and installing maybe a modified Gen 2 diffuser or a profiled aluminum panel at the lesser angle.
My car has Shane’s vents in my Gen 1 diffuser which I think will still be functional assuming that there is negative pressure in that area able to extract engine bay hot air but allow a smooth sealed lower profile at a more appropriate angle to give some rear down force..

[LCD Gauges]

I've been checking out the back end of your car with the air ducts; I might steal that design or something similar! I'm working on removing the rear lip from the hatch,
and making that mesh as well.

As for the diffuser, I'm torn on the final style but I'll take my time researching. These months are spent doing all the leg work for body mods as it's still too cold
for filler, and primer to set properly. My vision is something very mechanical, and aggressive looking, and of course somewhat functional for when hitting the track.

2009-rear-diffusers.jpgToyota-TF109.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

One more update on the LCD gauge project. It may not seem like much, but a great deal of work has gone into making the sonar system functional.
Also many "behind the scenes" add-ons such as sound, and data logging is now on board. I think I've beaten this horse a little much, so it's back to
physical GTM interior mods, and side-scoops.

We're still sitting in the sub zero temps in the Toronto area, which means doing small tasks indoors for at least another month. I'd like to hit the ground
running, and get some real drive time logged by June 1st! Go ahead, place your bets!

[Presto51]

I'd like to hit the ground running, and get some real drive time logged by June 1st! Go ahead, place your bets!

Tino this project looks really good. Nice job but I have to say:

Oh, Oh, Has the gauntlet of challenge been laid down, and the plea "Cry 'Havoc!', and let slip the dogs of double dare" have been heard ?

Ron

[LCD Gauges]

EDIT: Going to redo the video. Sorry.

[LCD Gauges]

A new and improved video! Shhhh...people are sleeping.

[LCD Gauges]

The newest twist to this project is getting rid of the stereo for a touchscreen tablet to control the LCD monitor, and other aspects of the system.
Who uses CD's, or DVD's anymore? The Arduino has a radio module if I want to listen to local news, or music. The tablet can handle the MP3's,
and video.

I'm in the midst of designing an interface that will switch modes on the gauges, relocate some of the information from the cluster to the console,
and move toward a more sophisticated look. The touchscreen will also be setup to playback the data that is captured for reviewing at the track,
or troubleshooting.
control_screen1.pngcontrol_screen2.png

Right now I've drawn some buttons with text, but I'd like to change those to icons eventually. Something like this:
menu_buttons.png

The music player is a Winamp skin that is overlayed with active areas to manipulate the features.
I'd like to call BMW to get a price, and some info about their mouse pad/cluster. It would be sweet
to integrate that controller into the console!

control_screen3.pngBMW-iDrive-Touch-Controller-10.jpg

[Kalstar]

Damn....love it!

[LCD Gauges]

I'm brainstorming on how to handle the interior temperature issue. My thought is to use some ducting to isolate the cooling lines,
with a thermal barrier to contain the heat within the tunnel.

This duct will extend as far forward as the foot box, and back to the end of the engine cover.
StackDuct184580_4.jpgthe_14620_2_sd.jpg
From what I recall, there are a couple of cross-braces on the bottom that will need to be removed and re-welded, as well as some
links/brackets that hold the cooling hoses. Is there any reason this can't be done?

[Kalstar]

For what it is worth I drove my GTM all day yesterday and not a hint of heat in the cabin. I have yet to do the triangular closeout panel under the tunnel/engine. I might not.

[LCD Gauges]

I wish my car was the same; it gets pretty warm. Even a few degrees of cooling in the cabin would be worth the attempt.

[LCD Gauges]

This is my second time gutting the wires, but it's for a good cause. New corrosion
resistant wires will be installed, along with the Arduino harness that will poll
a bunch of sensors around the car, and engine.


I'm hoping to at least get the vitals working (speed, tach, oil, water, fuel) by
mid-month, and then add the remaining systems as the Summer progresses.


The tunnel mod looks doable after cutting the shift link brackets. This will
give enough clearance between the hoses and shifter to install aluminum shields,
and thermal guard. I'm thinking I can rearrange some of the hoses to sit flatter as well.
There's enough space to get into the HVAC area, and right back to the engine (just under the cover).
20150601_205427.jpgtunnel_mod1.JPGtunnel_mod2.JPG

[LCD Gauges]

Who would have thought wiring could be such an art? I'm trying to duplicate the look of photo #2.

I started off pretty good, then realized that 87A, and 87 are backwards...so the water pump, and fuel pump spool as soon as the battery is connected. Oops. Now I have to redo 8 wires.

I'm looking to cover both panels with smoked poly, and get a brushed aluminum plate made with the GTM logo/car number. I'd like to paint the aluminum, but it's already riveted to the car from the previous owner.

Two questions: - if you were to attempt this while in the car, what would be your process? I'm thinking about masking everything around the panel with plastic & tape.

- do I need to rough up the aluminum before priming, or is there a good primer that sticks to smooth AL surfaces? Thanks!e193145d1433784785-gtm-gen1-105-fires-up-gtm_wire_wip.jpg193153d1433784810-gtm-gen1-105-fires-up-cntrlpnl2.jpg

[The Stig]

Who would have thought wiring could be such an art? I'm trying to duplicate the look of photo #2.

I started off pretty good, then realized that 87A, and 87 are backwards...so the water pump, and fuel pump spool as soon as the battery is connected. Oops. Now I have to redo 8 wires.

I'm looking to cover both panels with smoked poly, and get a brushed aluminum plate made with the GTM logo/car number. I'd like to paint the aluminum, but it's already riveted to the car from the previous owner.

Two questions: - if you were to attempt this while in the car, what would be your process? I'm thinking about masking everything around the panel with plastic & tape.

- do I need to rough up the aluminum before priming, or is there a good primer that sticks to smooth AL surfaces? Thanks!e193145d1433784785-gtm-gen1-105-fires-up-gtm_wire_wip.jpg193153d1433784810-gtm-gen1-105-fires-up-cntrlpnl2.jpg

Wow. That is a pro touch! Beautiful work.

Mike

[VD2021]

Who would have thought wiring could be such an art? I'm trying to duplicate the look of photo #2.

I started off pretty good, then realized that 87A, and 87 are backwards...so the water pump, and fuel pump spool as soon as the battery is connected. Oops. Now I have to redo 8 wires.

I'm looking to cover both panels with smoked poly, and get a brushed aluminum plate made with the GTM logo/car number. I'd like to paint the aluminum, but it's already riveted to the car from the previous owner.

Two questions: - if you were to attempt this while in the car, what would be your process? I'm thinking about masking everything around the panel with plastic & tape.

- do I need to rough up the aluminum before priming, or is there a good primer that sticks to smooth AL surfaces? Thanks!e193145d1433784785-gtm-gen1-105-fires-up-gtm_wire_wip.jpg193153d1433784810-gtm-gen1-105-fires-up-cntrlpnl2.jpg

I know what you mean. I'm a fan of clean and organized wiring also. I built this panel to manage the lift pump and engine bay fans after pricing weather-tite relays and fuses.

I'm eager to see your finished product in action. Great work, Tino.

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks guys. I hope my last message wasn't misleading - that second photo is not my work. At the moment, I've repaired the left bank of relays, but still need to complete and tidy up the right side.

The jury is still out for painting the aluminum. Perhaps I'll use a vinyl wrap as a backing since the poly cover will hide most of it.

Vidal, that is a sexy lift and fan controller. Nicely wrapped and tied! I have hours of weaving and wrapping ahead of me unfortunately.
11406234_979761598714573_7953694787336173449_o.jpg

[VD2021]

Thanks guys. I hope my last message wasn't misleading - that second photo is not my work. At the moment, I've repaired the left bank of relays, but still need to complete and tidy up the right side.

The jury is still out for painting the aluminum. Perhaps I'll use a vinyl wrap as a backing since the poly cover will hide most of it.

Vidal, that is a sexy lift and fan controller. Nicely wrapped and tied! I have hours of weaving and wrapping ahead of me unfortunately.
11406234_979761598714573_7953694787336173449_o.jpg

Tino,

Guys have had great success with the Raptor Liner and similar coatings on the aluminum panels after coating with etching primer. I've a kit on the shelf that I plan to use on the wheel well panels.

That panel is probably minor compared to what you have planned. I'm sure your results will great.

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks for the info, I"ll check it out before deciding on which method to use.
As for the wiring, it's on the back burner until I get back from the FFR open house.
I'll upload a photo once it's all tied, and loomed. If it's half as neat as yours, I'll be happy.

I can't imagine heat from the rad melting the wire insulator, but I think the cover
will be enough to protect everything in any case.

Tonight the steering column was the focus. More mods needed to make the new
steering wheel fit with the quick-disconnect. 4-8 inches of linkage needs to
be removed in order to position the wheel at a good distance, and use the
telescopic feature.

More details in the "Telescopic Steering Column" thread.
20150609_210713.jpg20150609_210545.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

No dice. Moving the column to a position that even begins to utilize the telescopic feature causes the
turn, and wiper stalk to hit the gauges.

no_go.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Very happy with the results of the tunnel cooling mod. I ended up using a heat duct, and Thermo-tec insulating material to close
out the cooling lines. It was a pain to wrap the heat shield because of the sticky tar adhesive of the Thermo-tec wrap. Once it
touched the metal, it stuck like glue! This will act as more of a sound reduction because the reflective material is facing the wrong
side of the tunnel, but the duct itself should reflect most of the heat away in any case.

Nonetheless, it should keep all of the heat from entering the cabin. In addition to that, I'll be covering the insides of the aluminum
panels, and underside of the console/engine cover, as well as a vented under body close-out panel. Overkill? Probably!

20150615_195641.jpg20150615_203147.jpg

I'll be closing out the rest of the cabin panels, then onto the passenger door scissor/lambo hinge.
The second one should go faster, right?

[Presto51]

I'll be closing out the rest of the cabin panels, then onto the passenger door scissor/lambo hinge.
The second one should go faster, right?

Nice going Tino on the cooling fix.

Yes with lessons learned and notes from the left door, the right one should go faster. Don't forget to post pictures or video of your progress

Ron

[LCD Gauges]

Thank you Mr. Presto Sir! The Passenger side bracket photos will be posted within the next few days.


Does anyone happen to know the wiring for the telescopic column, Momentary high beam circuit?


I can get the forward (push) high beam to work, but not the pull/momentary high beam to work on the stalk.


I've tried the manual, and SpyTech's blog, but neither provides light. It's possible that the circuit, or switch is faulty, but you never know.

[LCD Gauges]

Found the momentary high beam circuit - it's the small red wire, and thick white wire coming from the harness on the bottom left.
Just when you think you've tried every combination...

After some modification of the steering hub adapter (cut off the mounting ring), and using the stock zero offset wheel, a total of
four inches (fore) was gained. That value also includes sliding the bolts to the ends of the slots. It makes connecting the telescope
feature almost worth it now.
steerhub.jpgstock_hub.jpg


Here's the latest gauge trim. I have some filing ahead of me to smooth the edges, but it's almost ready for use.
lcd_gasket.jpglcd_TRIM.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Doors gettin' done, and matching up fairly well after 2.5 hours of adjustment.
Still a good deal of work ahead to clear the hood. The inner bracket of the door will have to be modified.
door1.jpgdoor2.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

The wiring is taking longer than anticipated. Just about 16 hours on this panel alone, and the right side relays are not done.
Once they're wired up, the loom needs to be tied. Vidal, I could use your artistic touch with this!
I have installed a CF overhead panel that was originally meant for gauges, but since the LCD project, the rearview monitor, and ignition switches
have moved to that location. A little cheesy, but the forward view is better with the mirror above the roll-bar.

I found some nice SS, illuminated pushbuttons switches that will replace the rockers. A little bling on the pedals, and GPS antenna to boot.

[carbon fiber]

Hey Tino. Your LCD stuff is coming along nicely. Have you got more pics of the cover? How did you end up mounting it?

[LCD Gauges]

I know the importance of getting good lighting, and finishing a task before showing off the detail, but I am already liking the look! The clear Lexan panel needs some trimming and sanding to square up the cut lines. It also needs to be painted, or lay down some matting to match the interior theme. I'd really like to see carbon fiber cloth wrapped on the poly, and then clear coated. I don't know if that's an option, or whether I need to have a piece made. In any case, the wiring continues. Testing this weekend if all goes well.

attachment-2.jpeg

attachment-1.jpeg

[LCD Gauges]

Today I managed to test the gauges in the car, and it worked really well.
The Tach needle doesn't bounce "realistically" because I'm averaging 40
samples of RPM before it's displayed. I was about to try 5 samples, but
had an electrical issue with the GTM wiring that prevented a restart.

It was a crazy ghost that I chased for a few hours. Has this sort of thing
ever happened to you?

For some reason, after I connected the Fan ground, the fans turned on, and
the engine shut off instantly. It would not restart, or crank. The voltage
kept showing 6.4 volts when I turned on the ignition as if the battery was dead,
or there was a partial short.

After disconnecting all relays, fuses, and accessories nothing changed. I ended
up removing harnesses from all of the sensors, fuel pump, alternator, PCM, etc.

After removing all connections to the harness - literally an open ended wire,
there was no answer. Lastly, I removed the ground from the battery, and
did some load tests with fog lamps, and other high watt items. The meter
showed 12.14 under load, so I began to connect everything again.

The voltage remained steady like nothing happened. That doesn't make
me feel very good because it might happen while I'm driving. I'll have to
triple check my connections, grounds, and fan relay.

Not having answers doesn't leave any warm, fuzzy feelings at the end of the day!

[LCD Gauges]

After all the uncertainty, I decided to pull the starter and bench test it. The gear would pop out, but wouldn't turn. It loaded my power supply pretty
good, and sure enough - a new starter solved the problem. The MSD unit had approximately 30 cranks before it failed. There's a heat shield between
the exhaust, but I don't know if heat was an issue.

The new B&M seems like a branded copy of the MSD. What do you think? I hope it lasts MUCH longer!
20150722_135800.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

If you're not sick of the LCD testing videos yet, then have a look at this one.
The tach is now matching engine RPM properly. I've also taken a screen shot
of the HP Tuners log vs. what my program is capturing.


The slight difference is that my software is averaging 10 samples, then displaying
the tach value which makes the needle bounce less, whereas HP Tuners is
recording from the OBDII port.
RPM-Compare.jpg
It's nice to be able to see the data side by side, and have a bench mark to
calibrate against. Since the processor only accepts 5 volts input, there is
some voltage reduction and math involved, but it's dead-nuts on the money.

This feature will make a great addition to the kit for troubleshooting, and
race track data analysis.


I even cleaned my monitor this time!

[seanranger3]

Jealous but congrats. So are you done yet???

I can't believe it's sitting in my garage! GTM #105 has a proud new owner as of today. We drove from Cambridge to Callander, Ontario in
a ten hour round drip drive to pick up the beast.


We had quite a few confused stares on the drive home as people tried to figure out what type of car I was hauling. Lots of
thumbs-up and horns. We stopped twice for gas at highway service stations, and the trailer was swarmed by curious on-lookers.
Some kid even took a picture...which was strange because it was all taped up and stuffed with boxes. It was a cool feeling;
all the questions and compliments. I almost felt like a FF salesperson with the info sessions!

It was a great day, awesome weather and nice to meet Alain and Dave who were a big help getting the car onto the trailer and ready for
travel. Below is a video link of some scenery along the way, and our adventure getting the car from crate to trailer:



I am still wired from the events of today. Instead of going to sleep, I just unpacked the entire car and checked out the contents. This kit
is going to be a BLAST to build. I'm very impressed!

[LCD Gauges]

Almost 4 years since that post. It's funny to read my emotions then, compared to the roller-coaster
ride that is the GTM build process.

I'm about one year from completion (paint, etc.), and maybe 3 weeks from getting the car to a respectable
street ready state. My goal is to drive this car by Mid-August, and stop living in my garage for the Summer!

[mikespms]

Hey Tino,

Time flies when you're having fun!

[LCD Gauges]

Mike, time even flies when you're not having fun, doing things like installing vent tubes on the Vintage Air box!

I think I've earned my Ph.D. in HVAC trying to get these tubes connected. Those of you that haven't attacked this
part of the project have a very interesting puzzle waiting. Don't worry, I've had a few drinks on your behalf!

hvac.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

I think I’ve found a solution to trap the heat from the console area. After covering the tunnel with an aluminum shield and heat wrap,
I've put some heat treatment over the vent hoses and vertical bars in front of the evaporator.


The 2 inch bars give a good deal of surface area for the ThermoTec shield to stick onto. The screws and washers are added insurance
to keep things in place. All of the edges are wrapped with aluminum duct tape.


I’m getting ready to put the front, and rear glass on soon. Any tips to share? The pillars seem very slack, which allows quite a bit of flex.
I’m worried that the glass will crack if the body twists. I’ll have to use several fasteners for the body area, and maybe some firm rubber
gasket between the pillars and roll cage. I'll have to search other threads to get ideas before pulling the trigger.20150811_131746-1.jpg20150812_123346.jpg20150812_124214.jpg20150812_124813.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Getting ready to install the glass. The windshield is sitting nice all around, and hopefully I"ve done enough to prevent flexing amd shifting of the body near the pillars.*

Any words of caution before moving forward?

[RF RIDER]

are you installing yourself? also do you have a rubber trim piece to put around the glass. Most are adding this piece, looks more factory.
also last thing, you sure you don't want to paint this car before adhering the glass to the body? Do you plan of driving car in the primer stage? this may cause some bad results later with water absorbing into primer.
may cause a lot of rework.