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Thread: My Official GTM Build Thread!

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kempo View Post
    Tino,

    You might be able to incorporate a dirt bike/atv airbox drain on the bottom of the air box. This will stop water from pooling inside the box.

    Attachment 8050
    Automatic ones are also available off of tractor air boxes...remember what my filter looks like? LOL!
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  2. #82
    Senior Member Kempo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash View Post
    Automatic ones are also available off of tractor air boxes...remember what my filter looks like? LOL!

    LOL yes I remember seeing the picture of that 55gal capacity filter. You should post the picture again to remind us how small our filters are.
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  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash View Post
    Automatic ones are also available off of tractor air boxes...remember what my filter looks like? LOL!

    Where did you end up putting that thing anyway? I'm guessing the passenger seat area?
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  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
    Where did you end up putting that thing anyway? I'm guessing the passenger seat area?
    No. My car is much wider than a normal GTM yet has much less room in the drivers compartment, so there is room in a "side pod" for that monster.
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  5. #85
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    My ideas for the rear-end look. Audi A4 lights, and 01 Sentra reverse lights (already have). I'd like to work something out with
    the exhaust tips for a sort of "boom tube" appearance, and rework the diffuser.

    If my hands can work as well as Photoshop's cut-n-paste, I may be in business!

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  6. #86
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    Guess what's back, and finally out of storage!? I'm happy that I'll be able to participate on this forum with more substance once again.

    Sorry about the dust and messy garage, there's quite a bit of organizing and cleaning before I start working on the car but it wont be long.
    The main goal will be finding a transaxle and getting the car ready for the go-kart stage by the end of May.

    I'll be adding an Integra spoiler to finish off the rear end appearance; it seems to fit well. I'm going to mount it about 1/2 inch above the
    body as I'm not a big fan of the taller race-style wing. I might bug you all for ideas on fabricating mounts when the time comes.

    468673_10150936946309148_505744147_12761132_168766658_o.jpg537896_10150936949119148_505744147_12761147_597878906_n.jpg
    Last edited by LCD Gauges; 04-05-2012 at 06:03 AM.
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  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
    My ideas for the rear-end look. Audi A4 lights, and 01 Sentra reverse lights (already have). I'd like to work something out with
    the exhaust tips for a sort of "boom tube" appearance, and rework the diffuser.

    If my hands can work as well as Photoshop's cut-n-paste, I may be in business!

    64327_10150870824014148_505744147_12510697_1286674935_n.jpg
    I like the look of the lights, they look good in the pic. Consider that most cars have a rounded rearend. Most cars, the tail lights bend around the corner to be visible from the sides. Hard to tell looking a picture. I spent alot of time looking at cool tail lights on cars driving around, they look good driving up on them, but then when you get up close I see they wouldn't work becauase they wrap around the side. That's the problem I ran into, I was forced to use a light that doesn't wrap around the side. That look you came up with is killer, I hope you can make it work.

    Gene

  8. #88
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    Gene, I know exactly what you're thinking. I've been looking at tail lights on every car on the drive home and found that most don't suit the 'lines' of the GTM, or they wrap
    around the corner as you mentioned.

    The Audi A4 (certain model years) and A7 have fairly flat lenses. Failing that I was thinking about lights from a VW, or 1st/4th Gen Camaro.

    P.S. I've been watching your video logs like a hawk to get ideas on working the 'glass for these lights!
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  9. #89
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    Well goos luck, let me know if I can help somehow. That pic is sick. I do, love the look.

  10. #90
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    Tino,

    I'm glad you're ready to continue with your build again. Your thread was collecting dust .

    Seeing others progress is a great motivator for me.

    Gene's videos are good stuff. I'm about ready to start picking his brain as I turn back to body work.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
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  11. #91
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    Hello everyone, noob here.
    great thread , very informative.
    looking into building one soon as i get promoted.......
    How rude of me...
    My name is Carl, been in the military for 23 years now (enlisted), currently a BMS (Battalion motor Sergeant), a little knowledge about turning wrenches.
    currently stationed in FT Bliss Texas.
    Would getting the donor first be good prior to getting the kit or get the kit then decide which route to go with the motor and drive train?
    thanks everyone.
    Carl

  12. #92
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    Especially if your space is limited, you should probably get the donor first. Although most say that it is very helpful to keep the donor around for little parts that aren't listed in the manual that you will end up needing. So, unfortunately, it seems very beneficial to be able to keep both cars on site until at least the go kart stage, and probably through to completion.
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  13. #93
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    After more than five months of inaction, I'm happy to say I'm back in the saddle again.

    A quick question about engine install: Besides bolting up the headers, plugs, wires, and
    removing the thermostat housing, what other items should I add/remove before dropping
    the motor into the chassis?

    Today I spent about three hours cleaning tape residue, and mold flashing off the rear hatch area.

    Before and after pics:





    The rear glass gap alignment is good along the sides, but not very even along the top. There is also a
    huge mismatch between the rear quarter and hatch lid. It's going to take quite a bit of filler to make it
    seamless.
    552956_10150956980109148_505744147_12842585_1814266211_n.jpg525851_10150956979774148_505744147_12842580_875612812_n.jpg
    Last edited by LCD Gauges; 04-12-2012 at 03:35 PM.
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  14. #94
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    Tino;
    Alain likes his duct tape. that tape was everywhere when you brought it home.
    I would take the body off when installing motor, when I installed mine, I was at the engine lift controls and my dad was guiding it into place while standing in the car between seats. The motor had to to be tilted to get thru framing. Leave alternator off. you can install a/c comp. before. Also do a search on the other forum, you will have to notch the frame near a/c comp. plug or get the comp takin apart and relocate it to the other side. Kempo has pictures of this on his build page. I ended up cutting the frame with a dremel. depending on your headers, you might not be able to install with them on.
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  15. #95
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    I'll gladly send back all the tape dust and debris to Alain once I'm done! I'm going to remove the body, but not until I have the engine and transaxle ready. At the moment, I'm going to focus on finishing the items required for the engine install, and sand down all of the flashing.

    Thanks for the tip about the A/C compressor plug. I'll check it out before getting to that point.
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  16. #96
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
    After more than five months of inaction, I'm happy to say I'm back in the saddle again.

    A quick question about engine install: Besides bolting up the headers, plugs, wires, and
    removing the thermostat housing, what other items should I add/remove before dropping
    the motor into the chassis?
    Tino,

    If you have a helper or two you can leave more on the engine and still get it in. I installed my engine by myself so I had to remove the water pump and alternator (compressor and headers remained) and the intake manifold had not been reinstalled yet.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  17. #97
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    Another three hours in the books, and it's looking a little nicer without the tape!
    I must say it's sooooo nice to be working on the car again. Thanks for the reply
    Vidal. I'll see if I can round up some helpers to drop the motor down.

    A little more of the before and after shots; just the driver's side remains to be
    cleaned and then I'm ready for the block sanding stage. This is where I start to
    get nervous as I've never attmpeted this level of repair on fiberglass before.
    Thankfully YouTube has some decent tutorials to learn from.


    The windshield glass has an irregular gap, and also doesn't sit on the body too well.
    I think it's mostly because the body isn't sitting square on the chassis at the moment.
    With a bit of shifting near the doors, the glass sits down in the gap. Perhaps I'm making
    a big deal out of nothing as the body is not secured.
    There are some huge steps/mismatch in the mold which will take some skill to fix.
    I'm not sure whether to build up the filler and round the A-Pillar, or take the highest
    point and keep it somewhat flat.
    35451_10150959864924148_505744147_12851567_180837035_n.jpg
    374153_10150959864359148_505744147_12851562_2105219705_n.jpg
    Last edited by LCD Gauges; 04-13-2012 at 07:12 PM.
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  18. #98
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    After nine hours of removing tape scum, and flashing I'm ready to start the block sanding. I'll be picking out the filler/bondo, as well as
    any other materials required for this stage of the body work. Doors, rear hatch, and hood will need some massaging to clean up the edges



    I wont be able to get the finer details worked out until the body is mounted...and that will happen once the motor/transaxle gets dropped in.
    For now, I'll work on the areas that are not alignment sensitive. I'll be updating another thread about body work techniques to discuss my
    approach, and get some opinions.

    Until then, check out this odd discovery I found today. It appears a mouse had a field day on this tube, but it's tough to believe because these
    parts were stored in a taped box, inside of a covered pick-up truck for the Winter. A mouse, or something else? Curious to know!

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  19. #99
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    The "second stage" has begun! Today I hit the roof, and A-pillars with sandpaper and a rubber block. Dust, dust, and more dust! I can understand why many people finish the body work before starting the interior, and engine.

    Here is the roof roughed up. I tried to keep even pressure, and use circular movements as I moved the block in straight line.
    401735_10151004676244148_505744147_12973513_2134258084_n.jpg
    The step between the door half and the main body has been knocked down. The remainder will be filled, and sanded to
    make a smooth transistion between sections.
    398197_10151004830904148_505744147_12973712_1911808055_n.jpg
    After a dry wipe, the pitting, surface scratches, and low spots were more apparent. I can see the importance of using a
    coloured spray once the filler is applied to ensure all of high, and low spots are evened out.
    524074_10151004676349148_505744147_12973514_1039584898_n.jpg
    Tomorrow I hope to have the hood finished, and Saturday to complete the back end.
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  20. #100
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    Hello all, a quick video log (idea stolen from Gene "fast_things") to get some pointers on filling the side/nose of the hood.


    If you get a green screen try resizing, or going to full screen mode, or click the link below:


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqcWa...1&feature=plcp
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  21. #101
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Tino,

    My technique is to use the same "X" or 45 degree moving pattern keeping the block on the flashing until its flush. Then continue the same blocking pattern but now covering 3-5 inches on either side of the flashing. I purchased a DA but had yet to take it from the box. It's more work, but I feel this technique will keep me from creating mistakes that make for more work. Skilled body Guys can make it perfect with the DA. I personally would avoid the circles you mention. But that's just me.

    For the areas where the surfaces are on two different plains you will have to use your judgment on how much to take down the higher surface. At that point, depending on how much material difference you need to address, you'll have to decide if it’s minimal enough for just filler or if it requires fg work. If its filler then sand the low untouched spots with 80grit, apply your filler and block sand. Good luck and keep the updates coming.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
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  22. #102
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    my technique with a D/A sander is to bump the lever to get it spinning and then make contact while using low "throttle". keep the rpms down to where you are hearing it struggle to keep spinning with light/medium pressure. i use the same 45 degree "x" pattern while using a D/A also. this gives you the same control as block or hand sanding in a "x" pattern. you can also do 90 degree passes over that. only time i'd stay in one place is when i'm taking down a high spot, and still be careful you can dig in quick with even finer grit paper. i've seen a $20,000 dollar set of fiberglass airplane wings ruined by a rookie builder using a D/A where he should have been block sanding with a 2 or 3 foot block sander. not saying don't use it, just know where and how. practice on a old fender or something until you get used to the feel and technique.

  23. #103
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    Let me clarify that I'm doing the circles on the curved areas (IE: front fender area).

    The more I read about the dangers of using power tools for glass work, the more I want to refrain. I'm fairly comfortable using the hand blocks right now,
    and things are going well for the first pass of blocking.

    I think I'm going to grab a laser level to find humps, and uneven spots along the body. If I shine the laser laterally across the hood for instance, I should
    be able to see dips along the beam that are not easily seen by inspecting the filler. Know what I mean?
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  24. #104
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    Hi Tino, (is that your name?)

    I learned a long time ago to not tell someone that they might be doing it wrong on a forum. It usually turns out ugly. It would seem that you are really looking for a conformation.

    One man's opinion, I could not hear the sound on the vid, but your waisting your time.
    The air pockets I saw on that vid need to be ate out and filled. Any difference in the mating surface, one side needs to be ground down to match, or the other side needs to be filled with bondo, as to bring it up to match. Since you don't want to grind any of your car paper thin I would chose the bondo. the blocking I saw in your vid is premature, You will be doing the same thing at the same spot after you get the mud work done.

    As I was doing my car I found many air pockets just below the surface, most of them I 'm glad I found. I would hate to have one poke out after it's painted.

    I'm not to sure what you have done, to the car. Looks like your just past the gokart stage. If your not going to be the one to finnish the body work, and then paint it, you may want to go a different route. If I were you I would do all the busy work so you don't have to pay the finnisher to do it.

    Do it in stages, the fine tunning blocking that you are doing is near the last stage. Get the body were you want it and use a couple points to keep it in one spot. Then do the same to the hood, hatch, and doors. Get it all to fit the way you want then start finnishing the car as if it were painted. Get the seals you want, trim all the edges were you want, all the lights, trim, screens, wing, nuts, bolts, everything. Alng the way only do some roughing in of the bodywork, as to make propper any item you install. Using a light grinder, 40 grit sand paper, the roughing in stage.

    After al that you would be left with a complete car all put together, with roughed in body work. Take it all back apart, and give it to the body man. If you gave me a GTM that was 100% complete except the final bodywork, all stripped down, that would be a quik and easy paint job.
    The body nam will cruise right threw the blocking stuff, that's not were the time gets ate up, it's all the fitting and aligning, and finding screws, trying to get a seal.

    The laser will not work, picture a ball, shine a laser over the top. You will only get it to hit in one spot. If it's hitting two spots you really have a problem. Same thing with your hood, it's round.

    good luck,
    Gene

  25. #105
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastthings View Post
    Hi Tino, (is that your name?)

    I learned a long time ago to not tell someone that they might be doing it wrong on a forum. It usually turns out ugly. It would seem that you are really looking for a conformation.

    One man's opinion, I could not hear the sound on the vid, but your waisting your time.
    The air pockets I saw on that vid need to be ate out and filled. Any difference in the mating surface, one side needs to be ground down to match, or the other side needs to be filled with bondo, as to bring it up to match. Since you don't want to grind any of your car paper thin I would chose the bondo. the blocking I saw in your vid is premature, You will be doing the same thing at the same spot after you get the mud work done.

    As I was doing my car I found many air pockets just below the surface, most of them I 'm glad I found. I would hate to have one poke out after it's painted.

    I'm not to sure what you have done, to the car. Looks like your just past the gokart stage. If your not going to be the one to finnish the body work, and then paint it, you may want to go a different route. If I were you I would do all the busy work so you don't have to pay the finnisher to do it.

    Do it in stages, the fine tunning blocking that you are doing is near the last stage. Get the body were you want it and use a couple points to keep it in one spot. Then do the same to the hood, hatch, and doors. Get it all to fit the way you want then start finnishing the car as if it were painted. Get the seals you want, trim all the edges were you want, all the lights, trim, screens, wing, nuts, bolts, everything. Alng the way only do some roughing in of the bodywork, as to make propper any item you install. Using a light grinder, 40 grit sand paper, the roughing in stage.

    After al that you would be left with a complete car all put together, with roughed in body work. Take it all back apart, and give it to the body man. If you gave me a GTM that was 100% complete except the final bodywork, all stripped down, that would be a quik and easy paint job.
    The body nam will cruise right threw the blocking stuff, that's not were the time gets ate up, it's all the fitting and aligning, and finding screws, trying to get a seal.

    The laser will not work, picture a ball, shine a laser over the top. You will only get it to hit in one spot. If it's hitting two spots you really have a problem. Same thing with your hood, it's round.

    good luck,
    Gene
    Gene,

    That's exactly the route I am on. I am doing it this way for a few reasons. Two of them are to save on the cost and have an expert paint it. I am doing the entire panel fitting and so on. I just finished the hatch and will hit the headlight buckets before moving back to the doors/windows (which are ~75% complete).

    This is a great way to go. I still get to be very involved in the entire build (IMO body work is the toughest part), I will save a lot of money (keeping me very close to my original budget), and have a high quality paint job. The majority of the labor is put into the doors/windows. So if you can get these to a final rough, with everything installed, sealing and working, you'll save ~half of the labor.

    The key with this route is to coordinate with your bodywork Guy/painter. Some, if not the majority, of painters will not warranty (some may not take the job at all) the paint because the prep is critical to a quality job. Tom (Thomas#142) and I have been working together on my bodywork and I am doing my part under his instruction and guidance . He doesn't even want me to block the body. He only wants me to knock down the flashing.

    Tino,

    From some of the post I am under the impression that you plan to do all of the body/paint yourself.? I have learned a lot from gathering information from the forum and some of its members, but my best education has come from hands-on working with Tom. It can be difficult, if not almost impossible to instruct through voice or message. In the absence of hands-on instruction, keep pulling in the knowledge and take it on to your best ability. In the end it’s your GTM and it would be cool to say "I built it from start to finish", because there are few [non-shop owners/mechanics (for instructional purpose only) we wish we had your skills] who can. Dave (Nitetrain) comes to mind.

    Good luck Buddy.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  26. #106
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    Exactly what I would, and have recommended. I'm certainly not too proud to say that I am NOT a professional car body man. I rough it, like with the demonized air file, and the 60 grit 90 degree die grinder, get the body filler to a point where it needs only to be taken down a slight amount to finished height, and then I call in the pros. IMHO, it is just foolish to think that you will do this better than a guy who does it all day, every day for a living. And since it is not the type of work I want to be doing all day, every day,I really see no practical reason to learn a skill that will ultimately be cheaper and MUCH more enjoyable to have someone else do.

    If you have those skills...GREAT!! It's just not an area that I think is worth my while learning to perfect.

    YMMV
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  27. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash View Post
    it is just foolish to think that you will do this better than a guy who does it all day, every day for a living.
    Exactly. I am not that foolish to believe/think such a thing, but I am crazy enough to attempt it! I have no issue handing over the project
    when it's time for paint. It would be a smart move in order to receive the high gloss, show car quailty, masterpiece that this car deserves.

    On the other hand, a part of me want to explore and learn. I was thinking I'd try my luck on the spoiler (it's a throw-away piece), and
    maybe the doors, and rear hatch. If they turned out to expectation, I might attempt the body, and hood. Who knows, it's all too far away t
    to conisder right now.

    I know for certain the car is not getting painted this year. There are too many add-ons, and upgrades that I want to install before final paint
    happens.

    As for the laser, I'm not thinking a single beam, "flashlight type". I'm thinking more like the type that Gene uses (a leveling laser) than can shine
    a continuous line across the hood. Does that make more sense now?

    Gene,

    Thank you for the response. I don't take offense to any of your comments; I just wish you could hear the audio. I'm confused when you say that I'm not ready for the block
    sanding stage? After breaking down the flash, I started to sand the parting lines to a point were the body panels have a smooth transition.

    I've also roughed up the gel coat with 150 grit so that filler/bondo/primer will adhere.

    Some air pockets have appeared which I plan to fix before moving forward.

    Right now my goal is to sand the entire car, rough it up, and get all the parting lines flush.

    Next I will treat the air pockets, and then add filler to the low spots.

    The car is not at the go-kart stage. I have abondoned the engine install, and interior aluminum assembly until the body is sanded down.

    I'll get another video uploaded with better quality, and more clarification. My cell phone is apparently not the correct format for YouTube!
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  28. #108
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    Working on the back end now, and pretty much done the entire car except the doors, and rear hatch. After everything is done I'll be cleaning off all of the dust, and treating the holes/defects.

    This defect will need some special attention. I'm thinking that I'll chip away all of the pitted area, and then fill the entire hole to prevent flaking in the future.

    577746_10151110236729148_505744147_13097142_773969468_n.jpg

    The passenger, and driver's side air inlets are proving to be a challenge to blend evenly. There are several joints, and curves all coming together
    at this point.

    318125_10151110236394148_505744147_13097137_1080544313_n.jpg552777_10151110235274148_505744147_13097128_884127128_n.jpg154785_10151110236239148_505744147_13097136_963429849_n.jpg318271_10151110235484148_505744147_13097130_765594014_n.jpg
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  29. #109
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    I'm pretty much done roughing up the gel coat now. All that remains is the rear hatch panel, and rear bumper. My next step is to treat the major holes/defects by chipping away loose 'glass, and sanding
    the edges down. I certainly don't want the underbody flaking off after the primer/paint is applied.

    Before I start applying filler, I'll be wiping the dust off. I'm going to use the same cleaning fluid to get all the junk off of the body. If all goes well, I'll have the holes treated, and some patches of filler applied
    by Tuesday.

    Here are some pics of the door, and side air vent shape that will be cut out:
    2012-05-17 11.11.41.jpg2012-05-17 11.11.22.jpg2012-05-17 11.11.13.jpg

    P.S. The transaxle is coming soon!
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  30. #110
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    Getting ready to clean off the dust, and treat the holes (tomorrow's task). Filler to be applied, and then hit the entire body again with a finer grit
    paper. The second pass will pay more attention to getting the lines proper, and getting an even base for the primer.

    The video has some questions for the pro's if you don't mind!

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  31. #111
    Senior Member rev2xs's Avatar
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    Hi 00SS_M6LS1,

    I thought i'd throw in my 2 cents worth. With regards to the A-pillar, yes, what you are experiencing is normal (when compared to my build). And yes, your idea of using filler there is spot on. I used filler with glass fibers. Much stronger but the only downside is that its a lot harder to sand.

    With regards to the windscreen fitment, thats normal too from my experience and from what i have read on other people's threads. I doubt you will be able to get the windshield to fit 100% perfectly using filler alone. If you want 100% perfection then you will probably have to reglass the channel in which the glass sits in. Probably make it slightly deeper at the top. Not worth the extra work in my opinion. What i ended up doing was using a universal windshield seal that you place around the the windshield before you install it. Here's a pic:



    As you can see, it completely finishes the windshield and covers the inaccuracy. Even when looking up close, you cant tell that the windshield doesn't conform 100% to the car itself. This is the easiest and probably best solution as sometimes, even windshields in production cars have the same problem.

    As with the rear hatch waviness, that part of the hatch is not visible at all under the black bit around the rear hatch glass. You can even it out, but once again, i dont think it'll be worth the time and effort. straighten it out yes, but the waviness i would leave as the windshield silicon will probably fill those waves out on their own like it did on mine. You would probably be better suited spending that extra time on your electrics or on visible areas of the car. Thats what i would do. If you do want to fill them in, then i would using something like that glass fiber body filler i mentioned. Much, much stronger.

    Luckily for me, my rear hatch didnt prove as problematic as yours was. One tip i can offer, make sure that you place your rear hatch glass on to gauge how much you need to adjust the fitment. The glass changes how the hatch sits completely. You may find that the difference on the left side of that lip might not even be as pronounced when the hatch has the weight of the hatch glass sitting on it.



    Quote Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
    Getting ready to clean off the dust, and treat the holes (tomorrow's task). Filler to be applied, and then hit the entire body again with a finer grit
    paper. The second pass will pay more attention to getting the lines proper, and getting an even base for the primer.

    The video has some questions for the pro's if you don't mind!


  32. #112
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    rev2xs, i didn't even notice the trim on your windsheild before. looks nice. where did you source it?

  33. #113
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    Awesome response REV. I'm happy to know I'm on the right track as I'll be hitting the car again this afternoon. Hopefully I can pull the body out from the sides, and the
    front enough to seat the windshield. Unfortunately, I think I'll be reworking the fiberglass to make it fit.

    Love your car BTW. I saw a video of the walk-around not too long ago.
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  34. #114
    Senior Member rev2xs's Avatar
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    Hi Carbon,

    I bought it at a local autoparts shop here in Poland. It cost pittance really and the effect is excellent. It really gives the GTM a production car quality when you look at it in person. Thats what i noticed about the GTM. Its not the big differences that give the allure of quality, its the little things. The more little things you change, it all adds up to a whole and that is what gives you the "production car" look.

    Here's what the seal looks like so you can try to source it where you are..







    Quote Originally Posted by carbon fiber View Post
    rev2xs, i didn't even notice the trim on your windsheild before. looks nice. where did you source it?

  35. #115
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    Hey man, how are ya. I admire your willingness to learn and question. So many things to address in your vid. See how the bondo you have sands, I never have used that kind before. You will need a gallon or two before your done.

    I think you need to pick one part of your vid and focus on that. Doing it all together is going to get overwhelming. Consider the fact that after your done all the stuff you will have learned, some of wich you will realize was a waist of time after you get done. I think if you take just one spot and take it from it's raw form to final prime you will learn alot from doing that one spot that you can transfere to the next.

    Sooner or later you will have to take a grinder to a spot and pour on the bondo, then sand it off and add some more, finaly getting it to were it's ready for primer.

    The front glass, you need to check the gaps with the glass spaced from the bottom as if there was a bead of uerothane under it, it is not realistic to fit it with it resting on the body. On the rear, the part under the rear glass, dotn't touch it, good enough. When you install the glass the bead of glue will not care if it's on a rolling surface, and you'll never see it.

    Too much to coment on, make a new vid, with questions about one part, and we will get more detailed.

    Very difficult to help long distance, but I will try.

    Good luck,
    Gene

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    Thanks Gene (*and everyone else), I appreciate the tips. I'll be sure to upload another video with one specific area of focus. Today I mounted the light buckets with pins (temp. mounting). Everything looks
    symmetrical at first glance, but I'll get the measuring devices out, and let the eyes have another look in the morning.

    There is quite a bit of work required around the perimeter of the hood openings to make the buckets flush. I know it will take a combination of cutting back, sanding, and filler to blend the pieces.


    2012-05-31 11.09.14.jpg2012-05-31 11.08.58.jpg2012-05-31 10.42.05.jpg2012-05-31 11.09.33.jpg2012-05-31 11.09.54.jpg2012-05-31 11.10.24.jpg2012-05-31 10.41.41.jpg2012-05-31 10.41.51.jpg
    Last edited by LCD Gauges; 05-31-2012 at 11:24 PM.
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  37. #117
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    Well, that is a good place to take the process from start to finnish. Concentrate on just the head light buckets for now. You need to think about if you want to clean inside the lens, if you glue it or not. The only thing I can think of to stick it on there without screw is some of that heavy duty velcro, and I can kinda see that working just fine. Get the thing were you want it, tape it in spots, slice the tape at the seem so you can now remove and replace without haveing to find the right spot again and again.

    You will have to use screws, clamps, preasure from something, anything you have to tightly hold it in place while the fiberglass, or glue to dry. I would do a dry run of how you will attach it with no glue, and do one at a time, keep you from chaseing yourself. If you use screws, use few as possible, when it's done you will have to glass those scew holes. everyone you have to repair is a chance of a spot that fails somehow and you will see it years later after everything cures.
    Grind the mateing surfaces, don't touch the part you ground off anymore keep any oils, silacone away. Get it stuck on.

    Then grind into the seem on the outside, your wanting to round off the sqare edges of the pannels, into the seem you only want to grind just enough to get down into what I will call unmolested glass. When it's proper you will see unfractured glass on both sides of the joint. You will see a fiberglass sandwich with glue in the middle, with no air gaps, you want a continuos surface with no voids. Then at the same time your grinding out into the body on both sides of the seem, you want to taper, or blend the depth of the grind out into the good part of the pannel. Since it's not strucural, you don't have to go far out at all, just remove all voids.

    Then start using bondo to get it to the shape you want, use only 40 grit until you get it just right, then on your last pour switch to 80 grit. Keep the 40 grit away from the rest of the body, then blend the last coat of bondo and sand with 80 out into the body.

    I like the glue, but I have seen it shrink at a different rate than fiberglass over the years, then you can kinda see it. Fiberglass is way harder to deal with but less likely to shrink. I used fiberglass. I think if I were to use glue I might use like a kevlar embeded type bondo made for blending fiber glass to metal seems, for the first coat then finnish it off with bondo. I really think you need to get a different bondo for doing the hole car. What you have, you will probably use all of that on just one bucket trying to figure it out. I really liked that U-pol lightweight gold bondo, and glaze. Mix a little glaze with the bondo and it spreads and sands really good. You can buy it off the net.

    Gene

  38. #118
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    That's a pretty detailed procedure, thanks for that. This morning I laid the lens over the headlight opening to check the alignment. The contour is pretty bad, and I'll need to "true up" the sides, and use
    some filler to keep the gap spacing constant.

    I think from now on I'll be able to sail along with more confidence. Now that I'm starting to rework the fiberglass, I'm not as scared to dive-in, and make things happen. I will admit, it was very intimidating
    to take on the body work for this car, but I'm getting comfortable using the tools, and pulling things together.

    As for the screws, I'm going to counter sink the heads with enough depth to blend-in the filler.

    I'm looking forward to your next video log. Your car is coming along quite well.
    Have a good day.
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    More work to the lights. These Lexan lenses, and the spacing around the lens will be a pain to make right!

    2012-06-02 12.35.11.jpg2012-06-02 12.35.24.jpg2012-06-02 12.35.44.jpg2012-06-02 12.35.54.jpg2012-06-02 13.16.00.jpg2012-06-02 13.16.11.jpg2012-06-02 13.16.21.jpg
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  40. #120
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
    Tino,

    I'm curious... Are those covers as they were from FFR or have they been trimmed? Richard Oben sells headlight covers that fit the gen1 and will save you on the body work your current ones will require. here's a thread and his website.

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-fact...it-issues.html

    http://www.northracecars.com/gtmparts.html
    Last edited by VD2021; 06-03-2012 at 02:25 AM.
    R/s
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