My Official GTM Build Thread!

[LCD Gauges]

Vidal,

That's the condition right out of the box. Thanks for the link, I'll have to give Richard a call soon.

[LCD Gauges]

Ordered these for the GTM. Should be here in about six weeks (hopefully in time for the go-karting stage!).

PLATE.JPG

[LCD Gauges]

Glassed in the front headlight buckets. These things are set for life with some epoxy, and short strand fiberglass holding them to the hood. I did the
front, and back perimeter with fiberglass, and also glued the buckets to the hood.

I'm going for the Gen II appearance with no seams along the buckets. This morning I picked up some 3M"Professional Gold" filler. This stuff
spreads like butter, and is nice to work with. I'm going to let it cure over night, and then blend the filler to form a nice smooth curve into the hood.
I'll need at least one more layer to make it right, possibly two more applications before moving onto the next step of treating pin holes, etc.

The body work is starting to move along at a better pace.
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I'll upload pictures of the blended seams this weekend. I think you'll be slightly impressed; I'm very happy with the results so far!

P.S. Those are not burn holes under the lamp bores. That was the result of a pilot hole when drilling the anchors to hold the bulbs.
These buckets are not filled-in like some that I've seen on here.

[Kalstar]

Ordered these for the GTM. Should be here in about six weeks (hopefully in time for the go-karting stage!).

PLATE.JPG

Looking for trouble....very creative.

[LCD Gauges]

Some pics of the passenger light after the filler has been sanded down. It will need at least one more layer to fill in the pitting, and get a nice transition into the hood.

After this stage I'll have to vacuum, and wash the entire body to get all the junk off. Right now I'm cleaning the local areas where the filler is applied, and letting
it dry before applying the Bondo. I'm allowing at least 24 hours between stages even though it's not required.
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[LCD Gauges]

Not happy right now! My windshield must have slipped down from the upper support overnight, and now there's a crack down the middle of the glass.

I should have known better than to keep the windshield in place all of this time, but Geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!
I'll be eating that expense before the car rolls.

Not happy.

Anyone selling a windshield by chance?

[rev2xs]

Oh man, i know the pain. It happened to me too. BUT, i'm over seas in Europe so if you think that it'll be expensive for you, then watch this, a new windshield to Poland = about $3000usd. For you? it'll probably a few hundred bucks from FF5..

Not happy right now! My windshield must have slipped down from the upper support overnight, and now there's a crack down the middle of the glass.

I should have known better than to keep the windshield in place all of this time, but Geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!
I'll be eating that expense before the car rolls.

Not happy.

Anyone selling a windshield by chance?

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks Rev. I'm not even sure that it slipped down so much as the weight of itself over time just 'gave in'. Nonetheless, hopefully someone will learn from my mistake,
and place the glass in a safe location until it can be mounted properly.

[fastthings]

Well if it makes you feel better, my passenger window now has a scratch in it from a bump that came from a burr tool. It is hard to work around glass in the building stage. I have ruined lots of glass in my day. Ya know it's kinda weird, I have been so carefull and whatched glass break, then on the other hand I have purposely threw glass across a room to watch it break and it just bounced off the floor. don't figure.

[LCD Gauges]

It doesn't make me feel better, but thanks for trying!

Just the other day I was thinking I'll take the glass into the house once the body comes off the frame.

Geeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzz, I need a drink.

Let's talk about happy things now.

[fastthings]

Blood,sweat, AND tears. It's no joke!

[LCD Gauges]

AND money!

What does FFR charge for a replacement? I'd check, but I'm not at home right now.

[LCD Gauges]

Plates arrived much sooner than expected (last week). I'm dreading the fact that Ontario requires a plate to be mounted on the front of the vehicle. The front grill/vent
area is the only logical place. What have the Canadian builders done? Just mount against the screen mesh, or fabricate some posts fixed to the fiberglass?

Hopefully airflow wont be an issue with the radiator cooling; the plate covers a good 1/3 of the opening. On a better note, I'm grabbing the transaxle within the next couple
of weeks. Need to study all the angles before grabbing one. See you in the transaxle threads!
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[The Stig]

On a better note, I'm grabbing the transaxle within the next couple
of weeks. Need to study all the angles before grabbing one. See you in the transaxle threads!

Hi Tino,

You have a few options that involve balancing wait time against spending a little more. Mendeola, Griffin, Aldin, Ricardo, or Porsche.

If Mendeola has their vendor supplier/production issues straightened out on the SD5, and they're still willing to sell them, then that may be the best route at the moment.

I here that Griffin is very close also. Fran Hall says that they've been testing a version of that box in their SLC Race Car with some success. But they have been sorting out some odds and ends to make it right for sales to the public. As well, they have been plagued by supplier issues. Kind of makes me wonder if they were working with the same people that Mendeola has been working with... I believe that Ruth (Art Girl) mentioned that she got word that they are about 3 weeks out.

Aldins (Australia based Gear and transaxle company) has some VERY nice products. Their V8 compatible gearboxes start around 18k and go up substantially from there depending on how you have it set up. 20 to 30k is not out of the question with their equipment.

Ricardo: Ford GT gear box. Very stout, and can handle pretty much all the power and torque that you can throw at it. If you're in the 600 to 1000 hp club, this would be one of the boxes that you should be considering. I hear though that the availability of these transaxles may be thinning out. I think I know where 2 or 3 are though...

Last, but certainly not least, Porsche: Extremely wide variety of 5 and 6 spd options. I like my 5 spd (G50/01 rebuilt, and reworked with taller 1st, 4th, and 5th gears). At the moment I have about 11k into it. But I will say that if I had it to do over, and given what I know now, I'd go with either a rebuilt G50/50 or a GT2 box.

At least the way I figure, it may be worth spending a little extra money to have a proven product (Porsche) that can handle the power and torque as needed, given how I intend to use the car (which will be strictly street and highway). There may be 1 or 2 track days in it's lifetime (or at least as long as I own it).

All of this is not to influence your decision as much as just wanting to share my two cents...

Take care,

Mike

[RF RIDER]

Hey Tino;

Looks like your workin hard at getting that car on the road. Good luck with Trans. Did you find one here in Ontario?

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks for the all of that info Mike. I've been reading some conflicting reviews about certain transaxle models, so I'll have to be cautious with my final decision. At the moment Dave, I'm leaning toward
a G50 box that I've sourced in the Vaughn area. I'll need to figure out ratios with tire size, against the engine particulars to ensure a good performing car on the track, and on the road.

As for working hard, it's just an illusion. I'm still in the middle of mudding up the nose end. Once the transaxle arrives, I'm going to put body work on hold and get the go-kart portion ready.

Before that happens, I'll have to dust it all off. Hopefully it will turn out somewhere between Kempo's car and my current mess when it's all shined up.

[crash]

Just for clarification, Mendeola has an SDR model and an S5 model. The S5 is a race/dog ringed box, and the SDR is the synchroed/street version of the S5. The SDR comes in two varients. The GTM specific SDR and the "regular" SDR. I can never remember how they are classified, but they are designated "SDR Stage I" and "SDR Stage II". The "regular SDR" has a higher HP rating and, of course, is considerably more expensive than the GTM SDR. Either may end up being a cheaper alternative when you factor in the fact that the Mendeola boxes use stock GM clutch and starter components.

[The Stig]

Just for clarification, Mendeola has an SDR model and an S5 model. The S5 is a race/dog ringed box, and the SDR is the synchroed/street version of the S5. The SDR comes in two varients. The GTM specific SDR and the "regular" SDR. I can never remember how they are classified, but they are designated "SDR Stage I" and "SDR Stage II". The "regular SDR" has a higher HP rating and, of course, is considerably more expensive than the GTM SDR. Either may end up being a cheaper alternative when you factor in the fact that the Mendeola boxes use stock GM clutch and starter components.

Thanks Crash. Sorry about that. I can be a little dyslexic at times... And you make an excellent point in regard to cost savings due to the ability to use the Corvette Clutch and Starter.

I recall reading a post regarding "Exedy Clutch Kit" (part # 04173) that can be bought for around $300.00.

Mike

[LCD Gauges]

Still truckin' along with the body work. These aren't the latest photos, but they depict the current state of 'mud' on the car. All of the parting lines are covered,
and have been sanded down to a very smooth blend with nice feathering on the edge of the filler.

I'm adding a second, wider coat of filler to ensure a nice blend, and will be using a finer grit paper to get a cleaner appearance. Lots of pits/holes
to cover, and then I might be ready for some primer!

front14.jpgpin_holes.jpgrear_14.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

What is 'the' suggestion for filling the tiny holes in the bondo/filler? What product worked best for you all?

[crash]

I'm using a Duratec Surfacing Primer. It's not cheap, but it can be built up to 40 mils thick. Least that's what the instructions say. I think I have actually gone thicker in some areas. That's 40 mils WET application. You can really fill some pretty big imperfections at that thickness.

[VD2021]

What is 'the' suggestion for filling the tiny holes in the bondo/filler? What product worked best for you all?

You can add some resin to your filler. You can play with the ratio. I'd start with an 80/20 mix. Mix it in really small batches and just use the bondo's cream hardner.

[LCD Gauges]

Getting closer to the primer stage now. I'm done with the bulk of the parting lines, and hood area. There's not much else I can do without mounting the body
to true up the lines, and gaps. Today I checked my work with some primer on the light buckets. Not too bad, but I'll need to get some of the surfaces lines
out with finer grit paper.

How smooth do I want the final primer stage? Should it be glass smooth, or do I want some 'roughness' for the paint to adhere properly?

Here's where I'm at with the lights. Pretty good progress from where I started!

right_front_light.jpgsurface_lines.jpg
Before:
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It may not be the pro method, but it's getting results I suppose.

[LCD Gauges]

More body work. Boring stuff. I'm moving to the main shell area now; working on the hood latch, and A-pillar areas first. The hood is getting touch-ups, and pin hole treatment,
then a 220 grit pass.

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I'm on my third application of filler on certain parts, but this time I'm not seeing any high, or low spots. It must be close to 'straight, and true' now? I'll have to apply a
guide coat to help me identify the imperfections at this point.

[LCD Gauges]

Just as I'm posting this message, the phone rings and it's Eric telling me the transmission is ready to ship! I'm thinking it will arrive by next week.

I'll have to tie up some loose ends on the body work, and then remove the skin to begin the necessary work required to drop in the motor.

Two questions: Is there any danger in spraying the body work (filler) with water to wash all the dust off?

Will it degrade the bondo at all?

Here are some shots of the latch, and A-pillar. I'm not sure how much detail will be necessary in the pcoket because I know the hardware will fill this area,
and likely need some cutting/drilling.

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This area is not at all complete; I sprayed some primer over the filler to check the blend into the fiberglass.

[LCD Gauges]

A not so interesting video to check out. As you'll see, I'm very slow at getting things done on the body.



After getting the transaxle home the build will move much faster as I'll be able to begin working on
the interior, and get the wiring finished. Can't wait to 'shift gears' and start doing the driveline as opposed to body work!

What to do with the stock shifter, and shift rods...

[rev2xs]

With regards to the dust issue, what i did is wheeled the car outside and blew as much of it as i could off with compressed air and then got the rest of it with a old vacuum cleaner. Any residue left over from all that on the body or the frame, i used an electrostatic cloth. That worked pretty well for me as i had the same concerns as you did.

Just as I'm posting this message, the phone rings and it's Eric telling me the transmission is ready to ship! I'm thinking it will arrive by next week.

I'll have to tie up some loose ends on the body work, and then remove the skin to begin the necessary work required to drop in the motor.

Two questions: Is there any danger in spraying the body work (filler) with water to wash all the dust off?

Will it degrade the bondo at all?

Here are some shots of the latch, and A-pillar. I'm not sure how much detail will be necessary in the pcoket because I know the hardware will fill this area,
and likely need some cutting/drilling.

264803_10151344259649148_877296965_n.jpg395816_10151344259949148_878605296_n.jpg431380_10151373723419148_25145223_n.jpg395938_10151373723649148_753434451_n.jpg


This area is not at all complete; I sprayed some primer over the filler to check the blend into the fiberglass.

[VD2021]

Two questions: Is there any danger in spraying the body work (filler) with water to wash all the dust off?

Will it degrade the bondo at all?

Tino,
Here's a technique I was taught by Tom. Use the brush attachment and a drywall dust collection bag with/in your shopvac. You will be able to safely brush and vacuum the dust from the surface. I also try to vacuum as I go. When I stop to check the progress, vacuuming is part of it.

I don't know if the water will contaminate or degrade the filler or not.

[crash]

Yep. That's what I do. Vacuum with a soft brush attachment. I vacuum all the time to try and keep it from moving around the shop. Not having the roll up door open also helps a bunch. The only time my shop got really messy was the ONE time I left the door open and did a bunch of fine sanding of body filler. WHAT A MESS! Still trying to clean up from it.

[LCD Gauges]

Sweet stuff, thanks guys. I guess I'll start cleaning as I go...but it piles up so quick that it's tough to manage every day. As one section gets close to completion, I'll wipe it down,
clean it nicely to check the sanding (sometimes spray a guide coat).

Tomorrow will be spent hosing down the garage, and getting the dust to settle before the engine wrapping/plugs come off. Time to get the driveline working!

[LCD Gauges]

TX pics! Let the good times roll.

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[VD2021]

TX pics! Let the good times roll.

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[sk7500]

Getting bonds wet won't hurt it. Doing additional work over the top of it while it's still damp will cause you all kinds of grief. Just make sure it's dry before you apply more filler or primer and you'll be fine. As for filling pin holes, I like to use a polyester glazing putty. It mixes like bonds but is much creamier and drops down into pin holes and sand scratches with ease and is very easy to sand. It's also more stable than spot putty.

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks for the heads-up, and tips. I'll be sure to dry the filler, or body before doing any further work. Tonight I'm going to roll it outside, and clean the entire
body, and interior. This week is slotted for getting the old shifter, and linkage out, as well as prepping the 'cart for engine install.

[riptide motorsport]

Excellent work its progressing nicely!

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks, it's getting there...slowly I guess!

Yesterday I had some time to roll the car outside, and spray down the garage. It will be nice to walk on the concrete floor again without collecting a bunch of filler dust all over
my shoes! The body is hanging overhead to make some extra work space; a little low, but it's fine if I'm going under the wheel wells.

The car certainly received a bunch of attention while sitting on the driveway. One of the neighbours kinda jogged over hoping he'd see the motor installed. Sorry about 'yer luck dude!

Tonight I started cleaning up the motor, and bolt holes. A little thread chasing goes a long way to ensure proper torque, and assembly. Once I grab the alternator, AC compressor, and motor mounts I'll be ready to install the engine. When does the money stop spending?!
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[LCD Gauges]

A minor snag in the engine mod process. I'm not sure if it's the LQ9 block, oil pan (doubt it), or perhaps a 'cut to fit' alternator relocation bracket...
It seems there is a bit of intereference with the bracket against the lip of the oil pan, and lower edge of the block.

Did anyone else experience this?

Worst case, I'll have to hack/bend the support arm of the bracket to make it work. Another set-back is the need to drill, and tap a hole for one bolt.
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[LCD Gauges]

Today I ripped out the factory shifter, and laid down the cable shifter. Drilling will be required to mount the box securely, and prevent movement when shifting hard.
No photos yet, it's just sitting loose in the tunnel for now. A couple of hours was spent modifying the block, and alternator bracket to fit snug against the oil pan rail.
with a bit of shimming, the grooves will be in perfect alignment.

I'm just waiting on some motor mounts to get this ball rolling! A/C compressor, tensioner, and alternator are on the way.

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[LCD Gauges]

The engine is starting to take shape with the components mounted, and exhaust manifolds mocked up. Today
I picked up a set of Z06 Tri-Y headers for $100 online. These things will perform just about as well as aftermarket
mid-length headers with a bit of work.

Monday, I'm grabbing the A/C compressor; Wednesday the motor mounts; then the engine goes into the
car. The photos, and progress should get more interesting from this point forward. I'm well on track to firing up
the motor, and rolling on the streets in "go-kart" mode by mid October (maybe much sooner!).

I'm starting to like this car again now that I'm getting into mechanical/electrical and tuning. That body work
was really frustrating, as well as busting the budget last month. I'm $3K over now, and counting...
This kit will end up costing me $50K before paint, rims, and tires (or any other eye candy I'm planning).

I'm trying to think of a way to move that tensioner to the other cylinder head, then buy an even
shorter belt to wrap on the outside of the crank, water pump, and alt. pulley. Know what I mean?
Just a little drilling, and hacking up the black bracket, and I think it will work.

Baby bear
2012-09-08 16.14.13.jpg
Momma Bear
2012-09-08 16.16.09.jpg
Pappa Bear! Buy a shorter belt, and eliminate the inner pulley. Less drag, a touch more power, and
stability as RPM increases. AC compressor will be added on the inner crank hub. Hopefully this will
be enough bite on the pump pulley to make it worth the modification. I'm not liking the long run between
the upper tensioner, and alternator pulley, that is the reason for this idea.
new_belt_route.jpg



A little work needed to cover the emissions crossover, as well as some grinding to the
ports to make some additonal ponies! I'm also going to relocate the 02 sensors to
prevent a reflective surface in the collector area.
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[LCD Gauges]

Tried to work out the tensioner relocation to make the segment length shorter between tensioner, and alternator but it's not going to work. There's not enough wrap on the water pump pulley, so I"ll have to settle for the orignal 12:00 position.

On a better note I picked up the the A/C components/bracket, and motor mounts. Just a little clean-up required before installation, as well as swapping in a brand new A/C belt tensioner.

The engine/transaxle install begins tomorrow!

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