My Official GTM Build Thread!

[LCD Gauges]

Today the garage received a little shuffle to position the car sideways, and out from under the body which is hanging from the ceiling.

Most of the time was spent setting up the engine, and engine bay for the install...but then something came over me which I couldn't control:
Wanting to see the motor in between the pipes peaked my excitement, so the motor went into its home temporarily. It wasn't too difficult to
navigate over the X-section, and under the rollbar. The waterpump had to come off in order to lower the engine to mounting height. In total,
it took about ten minutes to get the motor in place once everything was set. It was much easier than expected after reading some of the posts
(also done alone).

A little tip to those approaching this stage: Use a floor jack to lift the cage about two inches so the legs of the hoist can roll under comfortably.
Also remove the back section of the roll cage. Four bolts, and it's off quite easily. You'll have to remove it eventually to get the transaxle installed
anyway.

The motor is still tied to the chains, with blocks and engine mounts supporting the motor (in case the hoist leaks down). It will be coming out again
tomorrow in order to paint the panels.

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[LCD Gauges]

Engine installed. Clutch Installed. Transaxle waiting for approval...!

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Transaxle Prep. I think everything is here, and ready to go. I'm going to make a quick call to Erik tomorrow
with some e-mailed photos to ensure everything is set properly. The instructions say something about a "guide tube"
that is supposed to be installed, but I don't know what part that might be? The tube around the input shaft?
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Have you guys been using grease on the input shaft to ease the install?

[RF RIDER]

Tino;
your guide tube is the part as you say, around the input shaft. it has two bolts into the trans. I think you are good to go.
Nice trans, is there any mods to make fit with the rear removable frame??

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks Dave.

The trans mount, and axles require some modification to hook up. I'm not sure to what extent at this point, but I figure some welding will be involved.

[mikespms]

Hi Tino,

Looking at your pictures and can't see where your starter mounts. I used a g96-50 and it is completely different my shift linkage and starter are on the right side of the car and the rear mount is on top. On the picture of the transaxle in the car it shows the rear mount on the bottom and no starter or shift on right side or is that picture inverted. I see that the the throwout bearing and linkage is different as well, your adaptor plate looks to be about 1 1/2" wide, does that change the angle of your halfshaft to the wheels?

[crash]

Do not use grease on the splines of the input shaft. Centrifugal force will carry that grease out to the clutch disc over time and you will have a slipping clutch.

[LCD Gauges]

Mike (Florida),

The picture is not inverted, just blurred from my crappy cell phone. The Adapter plate is about 2 inches, but there's machined step where the face of transaxle sits in about 0.5 inches. I'll take some measurements if you like. From what I can tell without bolting up the transmisison, the angle of the axles will be fairly straight.

This setup uses a cable shift, and the levers are located on the left side (driver's side); the starter mounts to the engine block in the original location as far as I'm aware. The
OEM starter will be used in my setup, it's fairly compact and shouldn't cause any clearance issues.

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Mike (CALI), thanks for the heads-up, I figured it might be a problem! The GM stuff calls for a dab on the input shaft tip to help insert to the pilot bearing. This config seems like
it will slip right in.

[mikespms]

Hey Tino,

How about a little dry lube on the slpines.

Are you the first to use a g96-00?

I like that clutch set up is easier to install and the stock starter is a plus. The rear mount should be fairly easy to fab, just check your clearance to the difusser and mount the speedometer ring on the other side.

[LCD Gauges]

I'm not sure about being the first to use the G96. I know it's not a common choice, but I thought I read a few builds with 6 spd Porsche boxes when I first started researching.

Whenever I've installed clutch kits on other vehicle makes (mostly GM), the splines were never lubed, just the shaft tip to help slide into the pilot bearing. I'm abuot to head into
the garage and bolt everything together. I'll keep an update on how the progress goes!

[crash]

Yes, lube on the pilot bearing shaft is okay. Just don't be too generous. A little will go a long ways.

[LCD Gauges]

Silly me. I think I have the transxle upside down. That explains why you thought the picture was inverted.

[LCD Gauges]

The transaxle is installed; not too bad once you have it proper side up! A bit of wiggling required, but it slipped right in. Getting the clutch disc centered really makes
life easy for this step. I used the engine hoist with chains supporting either side of the transaxle from the axle adapters, then tilted the unit using the mount to guide
the input shaft into the bearing.

A few things to note for those consdering the G96.00:
- the stock starter does not fit the cut-away of the KEP adapter plate. Maybe my starter is the wrong type, but it's the smallest one that GM makes for the Vette as far
as I'm aware.

- the slave cylinder (PN# 997.116.237.04) is very difficult to insert. This might be easier if installed before putting the transmission into the car.

- cable shift routing, and mounting is a challenge. I don't see any mounting holes on the transaxle itself; it appears that something will need to be fabricated to make it work.

Also noteworthy:
- the waterpump has no clearance for the thermostat housing, or the cooling lines. The frame is too close to connect pipes at this location.

- the A/C compressor is fun to install. You'll need to insert some of the bolts beforehand, and tip the unit back/forth to clear the frame for two of the bolts.

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The adapter plate is 1.75" wide; no offset for the transaxle case. This puts the axle 3.5" off center.
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[crash]

It is good to have a bit of axle angle. Having them straight means that the CVs wear faster. Anything up to 10 degrees or so is fine.

[mikespms]

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Ok now it looks right, i used a porsche shifter with a b&m short throw kit and ran the shift cables on the left side and looped them away from the exhaust behind the triangle panel on the side. The bracket that mount the cables on the trans. needs to be modified for the new cables. I made an adapter plate to mount the stock porsche bracket to the trans with the proper set back for the new cables. Thats the cheap way or california motorsports make a nice billet bracket for $150.00 dollars

[LCD Gauges]

Mocking up the axles to determine new axle lenth. At this isntall height, and considering engine torsion, and suspension travel, the axles are pretty much ideal length.
I'm thinking half and inch shorter on each side will be enough clearance. Some pics, and video of how it sits right now.

Axle Angle viewed from top, and rear view
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Coupler clearance before bolting (about 1/2" spacing)
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A little walk around of the transaxle install

[crash]

Axle length must be checked at the point where the wheel is closest to the transaxle, and thus, the distance between the stub axle hub and the transaxle hub are the closest. On a GTM this is usually where the suspension is completely compressed. I suggest taking the shock off, compressing the suspension until it is to the point where the frame would be hitting the ground with the wheel on, and THEN seeing how much clearance you have. 3/8th is good, but anywhere between 1/4 and 1/2 inch end play is fine.

[LCD Gauges]

Good plan Mike.

For the short term, I tagged the axle at each end, then stood on the rear of the frame
and jumped "in phase" with the suspension. I was able to get the frame to dip over
2 inches toward the ground, and still no sign of slamming the axles.

I'll drop the coil-overs and check it out next. Thanks again.

[VD2021]

Tino,
Should you need to shorten them what would be the process?

[LCD Gauges]

A hacksaw, and some glue?

I would have to find a driveline shop that sells half-shafts, and give them the dimensions, spline count, etc.

At the moment, it looks like I'm safe, but I'll need to try Crash's method as it's
more accurate.

[Kempo]

A hacksaw, and some glue?

I would have to find a driveline shop that sells half-shafts, and give them the dimensions, spline count, etc.

At the moment, it looks like I'm safe, but I'll need to try Crash's method as it's
more accurate.

You wouldn't necessarily have to get new ones. You might be able to send yours have them cut and re spline in the side they cut. There is a company called thedriveshaftshop.com that can do that for you.

[LCD Gauges]

My last update for the day (I think). Just some photos of the transmount interference, and proposed mods. I'm going to take the G50 mount , and basically flip it
on top of the cross-bar, then add some links to the main frame for stability.
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Test fitting the reluctor, and setting the sensor position before installing axle boots/grease. Less mess if something goes wrong!
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Slave cylinder is installed. YOu might want to bolt this down before mating the transaxle to the motor as it's pretty tough to muscle the opposing force of the pressure plate.
If you did it backward like me, I have an alternative method using the specialty tools in the last photo.
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Another shout out to Erik who has been calling me after updates are sent just to make sure all is well.

[LCD Gauges]

You wouldn't necessarily have to get new ones. You might be able to send yours have them cut and re spline in the side they cut. There is a company called thedriveshaftshop.com that can do that for you.

Nice idea. I wonder what the cost/turn-around time would be vs. getting new shafts. I was thinking I'd trade mine as a "core" if needed.

[Rumbles]

If its the donut on the end of the transaxle that is the problem, you can just cut off the donut.

[LCD Gauges]

After disconnecting the coil-overs, and finding the tightest point of travel, the shafts moved:
> 13/16" end play RR

> 7/8" end play LR

That's one less expense, and hurdle for those choosing this option.

Still best to check your car as tolerances will vary.

[LCD Gauges]

For those considering a G96, 6 speed as an option, let me say that axle lengths as supplied from FFR are not an issue, and the modifcation for the transaxle mount is fairly simple.
It took me about an hour to get everything cut to size, and test fit. The tools required:
- metal saw
- grinder
- measuring tape
- scribe

Remove the flanges first, then cut the cross bar section from the mount. Clean up the sharp edges, and paint with the grinder to prep for welding. Scribe the flanges, along with the mating section of the trans-mount once you have checked the measurement. At this point, if I had a welder, I'd tack the flanges in place before removing them.
Unfortunately, I'll have to mark their place, and take photos for the person who will be performing the welds.

It appears my diagrams were too complex; the additonal support is not needed because the orignal design has support bars extended down just inches away from the flanges.
Once the dual bolts are torqued through the mount, it should be more than rigid enough. We'll see during the karting stage. Once the piece returns from welding, I'll clean up
the welds, and paint it.

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Next stop: Fuel system!

[LCD Gauges]

New starter, an alternative to the IMI. Just a slight mod required to the KEP plate for the G96.
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I'll be mounting it, and shimming it tomorrow afternoon.

[fastthings]

Hi Tino,
Your making some good progress, looks good.
I have a concern that I hope Kabacj, or JCracer chimes in on. The mount you just made has a double bar desing to give enough strenght to hold up the trans, you just eliminated the strenght by cutting it in half. I would think you'll need to add some brace to make up for the loss. Maybe not???

Gene

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks Gene. In the diagram previous to my last post, I factored in some additional bracing to account for torsion, and forces as the car bounced around.
After putting it into place, it appears that the existing tubing will be strong enough. I'm not opposed to adding a bar across the back side to increase the rigidity,
or some angled braces between the cross-bar, and lower legs.

The only trouble is that I'm not a welder, and don't own a welder. I'll have to wait until my trans-mount is back for test fitting, and then make arrangements to
add material. I kept the piece that was cut out in case it needs to be added for more support.

[mikespms]

015.JPG

Hi Tino,

Gene makes a good point on that mount, not so much as far as torsion but shear, in a frontal impact or a vary hard stop you only have your mounts keeping the engine from coming forward. The mount on the g96-50 is different and I didn't have to cut that brace. But I had to move it back and remove the brackets from the down legs for the shifter cables and bracket. I cut the mount brackets like you did and cut the top brace and down legs of the hoop re aligned it and welded it back together.

[LCD Gauges]

Good point about the shear forces. I think I"ll add some angle braces forming triangles between the outer frame, and the cross bar. I'll also weld in the shorter pieces as suggested
in my first diagram to reduce any vertical flexing.

Welds, and metal braces are inexpensive; rebuilding a GTM isn't!

[LCD Gauges]

The mount is back, and everything fits nicely. Now I'll measure up some lengths to help firm up the cross bar.

Today I spent a few hours figuring out the postitioning for the shift linkage. It turns out there's just enough room
on the G50, right side, transaxle mount to place the bracket. A ittle drilling, cutting, and grinding but it's
finally into place.

After the final welds are complete, it will all come off a third time for paint, then everything can
get torqued down for the final install.

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This will not work here! When the engine/transaxle twist, the shifter is going to shake, and/or possibly
fall out of gear. Going to have to mount the top bracket to the transaxle as well. .. don't know what I was thinking!

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Tomorrow, I'm picking up the water pump, amd fuel system components. The light is getting brighter at the end of the tunnel....

[LCD Gauges]

Just some eye candy today as I rework the upper shift link location. Fuel tanks will get modified, and then the briaded hose gets routed.

I think I'm done spending for a while...? Billet AL electric water pump, AN adapter fittings, regulator, filter, and braided hose.

Decided to go electric to solve the belt issue, and apparent slipping that many have reported.
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Using AN adapter fittings to convert the fuel hose to Stainless ProFlex braided. No need to change the pump, or fuel rails with this setup.
The stock pump and rails will support over 500 HP which made this option a no-brainer for my engine requirements. A regulator
is not necessary, but I'm planning to modify the in-tank setup, as well as plan for future upgrades.
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Exhaust cross-over is welded closed. Just need to clean up the ports, and check port matching before bolting them up.
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Couldn't stand the rust, so I decided to paint the brackets yellow which will be the colour of the car.
I have a three-tone idea for the calipers; we'll see if I can pull it off.
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[LCD Gauges]

The starter, and water pump have been fitted. There appears to be more clearance for cooling lines; I'll just have to convert everything over to braided ho$$$e now.

Mounting the starter wasn't fun...well...because I did things a little backwards. I was told the stock starter would work, so the KEP plate went into place, and the transaxle
got thread locked, and torqued down.

It turns out the stock starter wont fit into the machined hole on the flywheel side of the adapter plate because of the GM starter housing. Instead, I grabbed an MSD high
torque starter which appeared to have the same mounting capability as the IMI mini-starter. Nope...not really! The KEP machined hole sits approximately one inch above
the gear access position of the OEM starter.

Long story short, the metal hole saw cutter came out of the tool box, and the KEP plate received a make-over. Please don't try this at home.
For anyone wanting to use the stock starter, or MSD starter, here's a tip:
Drill the KEP plate before mounting to the block. It's a 45 second job, and will save you tons of headache as opposed to trying to fit between the roll cage, engine,
and suspension.

In the end, I got my way but it was a hell of a fight. Hopefully this news will save someone else some time, effort, and maybe money if wanting to use the G96 with
the Corvette / MSD starter.

The water pump looks great; too bad I wont see it after the interior gets installed. It should free up a nice handful of power, and keep the engine well within proper
temperature range. Next task is modifying the fuel tanks, and running the PCM harness.

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[LCD Gauges]

A few days of frustration as I'm having trouble getting parts from suppliers. Some items are back-ordered, and some just don't exist! I had to make a couple of stops at
CDN Tire, and Home Depot for coupler/reducers to make the cooling system work out. I'm still having trouble finding a 1 3/4 flex hose (braided) that will fit the pump
coupling. I may end up resorting to a rubberized flex hose afterall.

The PCM is going to get parked in the area which was reserved for the fuse box. I'm not using the Vette OEM harness so this location seems practical, and clean. Eventually
I'll make a metal cover to bolt over the opening for a finished look.

At this point I'm waiting for the fuel cross-over ports to dry from the sealer, then I'll test them for leaks before installing the tanks. I guess the next step will be finishing the
fuel line plumbing from the pump to the remote regulator. This car is just days away from a test start!

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[Rumbles]

I see you are using a by-pass fuel pressure regulator.

I'm using a Walbro 392 fuel pump which is rated at 255LPH @ 60PSI to feed my stock LS3. My understanding is that the LS3 requires 58-60 PSI fuel pressure, so if I use a 60PSI fuel pump, do I really need a pressure regulator? With no by-pass regulator, will the Walbro pump eventually overheat and fail, due to low fuel flow to cool the pump?

[Kempo]

I see you are using a by-pass fuel pressure regulator.

I'm using a Walbro 392 fuel pump which is rated at 255LPH @ 60PSI to feed my stock LS3. My understanding is that the LS3 requires 58-60 PSI fuel pressure, so if I use a 60PSI fuel pump, do I really need a pressure regulator? With no by-pass regulator, will the Walbro pump eventually overheat and fail, due to low fuel flow to cool the pump?

You still need a regulator. The rating on the pump is the amount of LPH it will move when regulated to 60PSI. If you fully close the return the pressure should go up to 100+PSI. There is a GM filter that has a return built into it and a regulator inside the tank (i"m almost sure the stock corvette tanks have this).If using QRP tanks you will need an external regulator.

[LCD Gauges]

I see you are using a by-pass fuel pressure regulator.

I'm using a Walbro 392 fuel pump which is rated at 255LPH @ 60PSI to feed my stock LS3. My understanding is that the LS3 requires 58-60 PSI fuel pressure, so if I use a 60PSI fuel pump, do I really need a pressure regulator? With no by-pass regulator, will the Walbro pump eventually overheat and fail, due to low fuel flow to cool the pump?

It's best to check with the MFG, but in my experience, you will have no problem. A regulator is still required as Kempo says. There will be fluctuations in voltage, and pressure which will load, and unload the pump. The regulator is the insurance to prevent damage to the pump over extended periods.

In my case, the regulator is a bit for show, but also for future considerations. Having the ability to change pressure at the regulator, as opposed to ripping out the tank/pump is always a plus.
Even in the event of a regulator failure...better to have a remote unit, as opposed to in-tank.

It's also nice to have the regulator as close to the fuel rails as possible to ensure the pressure is most consistent. It's not a huge deal as the fuel pump distance is only a few feet in the case of the GTM;
it's splitting hairs really.

[Rumbles]

Thanks for the clarification,

I'll be using an external pump, and an external regulator with a port for the pressure meter.

[LCD Gauges]

Fuel lines are connected. Tanks are cleaned, and sealed. The pumps are bolted down (leak test is next). Still waiting on cooling system components so I'll shift my focus to
the electrical, and PCM communication with HP Tuners. It's looking more like the end of the month for an engine start unless the parts arrive early this week.

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[VD2021]

Tino,
Looks like you're doing something different with the crossover fitting location. Where exactly did you place it? I can't tell from the picture.