My Official GTM Build Thread!

[Kalstar]

This Forum seriously needs a "Like" button. ;-)

X2 ditto

[kabacj]

It's done. Finally done. Words cannot describe the sense of, "end" to this madness.

Attachment 18546

Well done Tino! You have been making great progress lately. Its got to be nice to drive the GTM on the street.
You have joined a very elite club of GTM builders who have a street legal car. Congratulations !
John

[rev2xs]

Yes Tino I concur. Congratulations and enjoy the feeling of that weight being lifted off of your shoulders!

[LCD Gauges]

Can you feel the love in here?!

Hopefully I'll have a video out within the next week. I'll have to strengthen the
rear body support, and finish up some electrical before road testing begins.


My car will be the ugliest GTM on the road with filler, and primer patches, but
that will change in a short period of time. I swear, I'm doing it all backwards!


Gauges are complete; I used 2 5/8" voltage, and temp dials, along with five
inch
RPM & Tach gauges. The two inch Pro Comp's that came with the kit have been
moved to the on-dash gauge pod (fuel, h20, oil psi). Red backlights match
the stereo, and interior lighting theme.


I may add LED's for trouble, MIL, above the volts/oil temp, and a shift light
between the turn signals. Should be easy enough.


Maybe even an LCD strip below the RPM/Speed for basic info like outside air temp,
OBDII parameters, etc. That will be a project for over the Winter.

[LCD Gauges]

The most important part of the car is nearly complete - the entertainment system!
Just waiting on a rearview camera, and monitor arrive, then the tunnel can be
buttoned up.

After that, the interior will get some attention, and then THE SCISSOR DOOR HINGES.
If that's not the death of me, nothing will kill me.

Hoping to roll out by end of July!

2013-07-01 17.33.12.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Does anyone know what this part is? It doesn't seem to be found in the GTM manual?

I just hope it has a stick shift ... if ya know what I mean?!

2013-06-17 12.29.24.jpg

[flotowngtm]

Congrats Tino! Now from what I can see, I say you have created yourself a 6 month deadline to finish your GTM! So get on it!!!

[Kempo]

Congratulations Tino!!!!!

[Fraser D]

Congrats Tino!!! But I think that you have around 4 months :-)

[sk7500]

Does anyone know what this part is? It doesn't seem to be found in the GTM manual?

I just hope it has a stick shift ... if ya know what I mean?!

2013-06-17 12.29.24.jpg

Actually this part is in the build manual. It's in the introduction when Dave says "The process of building a car is a lot like the process of having kids". What he neglects to tell you is this is a possible side effect after all those major milestones are achieved and indeed long after the car is finished. Be warned this part will be MUCH more expensive than the GTM your building. 

Congratulations on the newest part and a great car.

Steve

[crash]

Does anyone know what this part is? It doesn't seem to be found in the GTM manual?

I just hope it has a stick shift ... if ya know what I mean?!

2013-06-17 12.29.24.jpg

That is the final part of the GTM project, because once you have that, very little work will be done to the GTM going forward.

[claybags]

Congrats Tino. Looks like you've been building more than a GTM!
Cheers to you AND your bride.
Jeff

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks Fam! It's exciting to share the news that could possibly be the demise of the GTM project! Rest assured, the car will get finished,
although I may have to wait longer for paint...maybe I'll just grab a paint roller on one Sunday afternoon and get it done.

Back to cars:

Picked up the dedicated rearview system today. The screen is the same height, and colour as the rearview mirror which is cool. I'm not sure
how my brain will interpret seeing two different perspectives of the same view however. The monitor may have to get placed elsewhere.

This car is beginning to look like a movie theatre with all of these screens (Nav/Backup, Rearview, and Stereo)! There is a member on the other forum
with four LCD's, and four cameras (don't recall the name). He's got me beat!

2013-07-05-17.12.12.jpg2013-07-05-17.10.55.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Rear light, and front light wires cut to length, and tidy. Tomorrow the fog lamps, and camera systems get plumbed.

I'm thinking to swap the orange lenses for red, and put the reverse lights next to the license plate (rectangular).
I'd also like to parallel the two pairs of tail lights to flash/brake in unison. Not totally set on that idea, but it looks
good in my brain.

gtm_rearlights.jpggtm_beams.jpg

Dirty enough yet?

[LCD Gauges]

Slugging away at interior wiring. The camera systems are tuned, and centre console is done. Moving onto HVAC, and dash gauges soon.

One of the fog lights turned out to be pooched, so it was a perfect opportunity to replace them with tighter fitting lamps. These don't stick
out of the bore nearly as much, and have a nicer light colour. If you tilt them just right, you can see the blue from the bulb just like the photo.

fog2.jpgfog1.jpg

No more deadline 'cuz I can't meet them, but this SOB is going for a ride next week some time! I really haven't checked the engine up to operating temps, or gotten out of
second gear. Then the body comes off for a coat of primer. Not fun.

[LCD Gauges]

For shame, back on page two! Been doing quite a bit of wiring over the last week, and now I'm working on the suede covering. Fuel tank covers are done, and some
of the tunnel aluminum is riveted. Hope to have that, and the sound dampener done this week.

How are you all doing the tunnel suede? Are you tucking it under the carpet, and console? I'd imagine that's the easiest, and most sensible. I'll have to check the manual
for their recommendation before moving on. My plan is to stick some padding behind the suede to kill the sound, and give it a more, "plush" appearance.

Here are some shots of the firewall/tank covers. Crappy cell phone picks. My wife agrees that we need a better camera to snap photos of the...ummm...baby.
This kid might come in handy afterall!

3M Spray Glue is really sticky, and fast drying. Painters tape to hold it all down until it's solid. Wrinkle free covering.
2013-08-11 13.33.20.jpg2013-08-11 13.33.03.jpg2013-08-11 13.34.03.jpg

Amps mounted. Using a small Alpine amp for the Nav system so it doesn't sidechain my
music!
2013-08-11 20.45.54.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Sound dampening/heat shielding started. I'll be putting this under the carpet, and between the suede and tunnel aluminum. Rumour has it, the tunnel gets very warm, but I'm also going for the padded upholstery look. Two birds, one pad.

2013-08-13 20.49.56.jpg2013-08-13 20.50.34.jpg2013-08-13 20.51.04.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

The suede is placed for fitting, it's not glued yet, but i can tell it will lay down nice. The heat shielding is adhering to the aluminum very well,
and gives the padded look I wanted, without seeing the rivets, and edges.

As a test, I wrapped my 60 watt utility lamp with the shielding, and it was cool to the touch. Hopefully I'll be able to contain the cooling temps
within the tunnel using a combination of this foiled shield, and insulating wrap on the pipes.

Snake skin loom on the wires, and then I'll need to find some sort of metallic, black button as a grommet for the holes in the suede. Almost ready
for seats and a test drive...almost.

2013-08-16 20.13.09.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

The HVAC is working. It turns out, I'm a fool for not connecting it properly.

Heavy Gauge white ground to battery = good
Small Gauge white ground to bus bar (*1.5 feet from battery lug) = not good

When the instructions say, both grounds to battery negative, it means dead-nuts to the post. I was shocked when tech support suggested this
over the phone. My ego was betting he'd be wrong, and I'd get to offer a, "haha, I told ya so".

Not even 0..02 volts dropped across the bus bar, however the Vintage Air electronics could detect the difference. It would have made sense if the
second ground connection was made down stream on the frame, and a bunch of resistance was present.

Humbled yet again in life. The good news is that I've started routing the vent hoses. Where is everyone sticking the passenger side footwell vent?
The only place that is easily accessible is just in front of the port (where the floor pan steps down to the foot well).

Back to the GTM manual, and search function. Link your photos if you have them!

[LCD Gauges]

Mostly good news, and a little bad news.

Most of the interior wiring is complete, and the gauges appear to be responding properly. The tach is reading a bit high, so I’ll have to calibrate
the unit, or purchase a converter. If I’m not mistaken, the Autometer requires an additional box to properly read the mutli-coil signal? All of the
electronics are checking out. The head-unit will power the LCD for backup camera view, even if the stereo is off. That’s pretty cool…maybe
that’s typical of all head units with backup cams?

The engine fired up again; it’s pretty quiet with the mufflers. Almost too quiet for a sporty, super-car, kinda sound. My wife was pleasantly
surprised…and I was thinking, MORE VOLUME! We’ll see how she sounds through revs with a bit of engine load.

The bad news is that, the engine stalled fairly soon after. When I went to restart, the starter gear got jammed on the flywheel. I’ll have to reshim
since putting on the heat shield which is partially held by the starter bolts. The MAF will likely need some VE table tweaks to keep it idling smoother.
That’s the plan for tonight, and another video.

Check out this McLaren’s paint scheme. I’m thinking the GTM would look great in a similar pattern, minus all the lettering, and less black on the front
end?
GTM_paint.JPG

EDIT: Starter is shimmed, and a bit of tuning done. Car still dies at idle. It has been doing so since installing the mufflers. Tuning is fun...

[LCD Gauges]

Better late than never (I think I've said that before). Start-up & idle tuning was a bit of a pain; the mufflers really changed the airflow through the motor,
and I'd consider the Magnaflows to flow very well, with little restriction. It sounds, and feels like there's at least one cylinder down. It's most likely a fouled
plug from the failed restarts.

A few things to fix like the rear, right night running light, water gauge backlight, and a couple other minor glitches. If the weather is good tomorrow, and the
motor behaves, I'll have an extended road test ahead of me!



P.S. I told ya it was quiet...and dirty.

[flotowngtm]

Lukn4trbl, hey how about this. Looks very close.

[LCD Gauges]

I remember seeing that photo before owning the GTM! Very cool car, and the paint theme is nice too. I have plenty of time to decide on the artwork before my car sees a paint booth. I've even considered 'wrapping' the car until the funds are available for a show-car, pro-shoot.

There's no doubt that with a baby arriving in December, my wallet is going to be dry for a VERY long time. We might have to start a fund to finish my car! I'll dance nude
on video for anyone that donates.

[flotowngtm]

Guys we need to start a fund for "Lukn4trbl"
Looks at thou he is about to sell his soul in desperation.

[LCD Gauges]

Yes, a spark plug fund would be nice! Changed out another set for a hotter plug, and ready for more tuning tonight. The initial VE table edit allowed the
engine to idle, but it's way too rich now. I'm not sure if that's the cause of the "misfire" sensation, or something else is amiss. No codes, and all vitals
are responding. Hopefully, it's just a matter of messing with the air flow tables.

Carburetors are so much easier to deal with when it comes to initial settings.

Wrong heat range, timing "so-so", way rich in the idle region, and deep in the core too.
2013-08-31 17.02.38.jpg2013-08-31 17.03.05.jpg

[Kempo]

What engine are you running? and what plugs? PM me your tune, a log and the config you are using to log.

[LCD Gauges]

2003 LQ9 originally from a Silverado with a bunch of mods (essentially an LS6 with an iron block is the closest I can describe). PCM is from a
2002 Fbody. MAF is from an 02 Vette. Plugs are Champion (can't recall the pn#; previously tried NKG TR-6 which are too cold for startup settings.

I'll see about getting a tune over your way, but it's not even close to being complete. The stock PCM needs injector flow calibrated for the LQ9, and the VE tables
for the mods that I have. I've only tweaked the VE tables once to get it semi-idling, so there's not much to see right now.

EDIT: I've downloaded a stock config file for an LQ9 which should get me close for the 6.0L displacement, as opposed to the PCM's Fbody tune.

[LCD Gauges]

It's good again. My PCM wasn't liking Hugo's files (something about a VCM mismatch). I had to cut & paste some tables from a stock LQ9 tune, then edit
crank, idle, VE, and fuel.

She sounds good; much different now with editing (I don't mean idle quality, I mean sound). Still a bit of tuning ahead of me; now it's a bit lean. Nothing that
a bit of messing around can't fix. After months of dust covered skin, the GTM received the first rinse. I'll have to degrease the whole body, then give it a nice
layer of gray to make it prettier.

I've decided to postpone the scissor hinges until the Winter. I really want to get this car on the road, and looking somewhat respectable. Only about two months
remain before the weather goes South! Thanks again Hugo for sending those files in any case.

Lots of heat coming into the cabin from the fans (the aluminum isn't populated in the foot wells yet); who needs a heater when you have a rad dumping heat
downstream?

rinse_GTM.jpg

[Kempo]

Very nice Tino. Glad to see you have your GTM running.

[fastthings]

Lukngud man.

[LCD Gauges]

Thank you both! Can't wait to get this thing onto a windy road, or highway!

[Fraser D]

Tino, You will have a blast!
knock off the rough edges and go harrass a few "off the lot" musscle cars :-)

[LCD Gauges]

For sure Dave, I'm already getting my kicks blasting around the block. It's so nice that I can finally hop in, and start'er up! I've been a bit tentative with the accelerator
because i have low octane fuel in the tanks, and still a bit lean...BUT, today I gave it a nice snap, and it bolted forward pretty good. Sounds mean! I'm finally starting to
enjoy the project, and working harder to get the essentials complete so it can be driven to work, etc.

Today the mirrors were installed. Measured about ten times before drilling, and the same for the opposite side. My speedometer isn't working at the moment; HP Tuners
isn't even getting a signal so it must be the sensor, or harness. I'm going to try using the wheel sensors because the one that's bolted to the transaxle might not be compatible?

Also having trouble with the temp gauge; the sender is reading 2.2K ohms at ambient I may need a resistor in parallel to cut the reading so the gauge needle will swing.

Silver mirror, and black mirror.
2013-09-08 18.06.18.jpg2013-09-08 18.06.35.jpg

Some motivational pics for the desktop!
2013-09-08 18.07.08.jpg2013-09-08 18.07.41.jpg

Still too lean, but getting in range. I'll need to start logging some miles to get it right.
The short trips around the block are not enough.
2013-09-08 19.22.12.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Fixin' stuff. Found another Autometer temp sender, and connected it in parallel. I'm not sure why the probe that came with the gauge is nearly twice the resistance
than what their documentation states?

Moved the VSS to the right, rear wheel sensor as opposed to the transaxle reluctor wheel. Also found a field in HP Tuners that might help with the tach calibration.
Has anyone lucked out with changing this value from six pulses, to four pulses?

gtm_tach.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Had the car out again today for a fairly lengthy drive. Not the nicest day, but productive nonetheless.

The speedometer is now working, along with all of the other gauges. After fighting with several ghosts, I've discovered that
my setup does not require a resistor on the speedometer signal wire, and my VSS sensor was functional all along.

To update my previous post, changing the tach signal from 6 to 4 pulses in HP Tuners throws off the calibration to about 2000 RPM
too high. The correct setting for the LS series, multi-coil engine is 12 pulses for my car (and I'm assuming for all LS engines using the Autometer?).

1238867_10152228676724148_360094120_n.jpg

I'm fairly happy with the GTM's performance out-of-the-box. Even without power steering, I don't find the action
too difficult in parking lots, or rolling out of the driveway. At speed, it's not even an issue. Same with the brakes;
it feels as though it will stop on a dime. Very little pedal pressure required, and I'm using the base C5 calipers.

What are your thoughts (for those without pwr steering, or pwr brakes)?

The acceleration is incredible for such a light frame, and I'm not really pushing it too hard right now. Definitely going
to be bad-*** when it's all dialed-in, and properly aligned.

Next on the list is door assembly (windows, poppers, speakers, etc.). I'm not holding my breath on this phase; it's going
to take a great deal of patience to get the door spacing proper, and sealed properly. All to be removed over the Winter
for the scissor door hinge. With only a couple of months left, I wonder if it's even worth the trouble?

My goal is to drive the car to work at least once! Maybe use it for all of October, and then strip it down in November.
I don't think I can put off driving this thing any longer.

Focus Tino...doors, and primer.

[Kalstar]

Had the car out again today for a fairly lengthy drive. Not the nicest day, but productive nonetheless.

The speedometer is now working, along with all of the other gauges. After fighting with several ghosts, I've discovered that
my setup does not require a resistor on the speedometer signal wire, and my VSS sensor was functional all along.

To update my previous post, changing the tach signal from 6 to 4 pulses in HP Tuners throws off the calibration to about 2000 RPM
too high. The correct setting for the LS series, multi-coil engine is 12 pulses for my car (and I'm assuming for all LS engines using the Autometer?).

1238867_10152228676724148_360094120_n.jpg

I'm fairly happy with the GTM's performance out-of-the-box. Even without power steering, I don't find the action
too difficult in parking lots, or rolling out of the driveway. At speed, it's not even an issue. Same with the brakes;
it feels as though it will stop on a dime. Very little pedal pressure required, and I'm using the base C5 calipers.

What are your thoughts (for those without pwr steering, or pwr brakes)?

The acceleration is incredible for such a light frame, and I'm not really pushing it too hard right now. Definitely going
to be bad-*** when it's all dialed-in, and properly aligned.

Next on the list is door assembly (windows, poppers, speakers, etc.). I'm not holding my breath on this phase; it's going
to take a great deal of patience to get the door spacing proper, and sealed properly. All to be removed over the Winter
for the scissor door hinge. With only a couple of months left, I wonder if it's even worth the trouble?

My goal is to drive the car to work at least once! Maybe use it for all of October, and then strip it down in November.
I don't think I can put off driving this thing any longer.

Focus Tino...doors, and primer.

This thread has been incredibly enjoyable to read. I look almost daily for an update. From one Silverado engined GTM owner to another, keep up the good work.

[LCD Gauges]

Nice, I didn't know you had a Q stuffed in there as well, I thought I was the only one. Did you end up using a F.A.S.T. intake on yours?

[LCD Gauges]

If you need an overflow can, Mr. Gasket makes a fairly nice one for about $15. My only complaint is that the mounting hardware is lacking in comparison to the polished can, and anodized caps.
They included a worm gear clamp, and a cheap looking flat piece of drilled aluminum - no thanks. I think I'll use a stainless band clamp, or chrome bracket for an MSD coil instead.

2013-09-17 18.12.52.jpg

NOw that I've had my fix kickin' around the streets, I'm going to shift focus to the doors, and getting the body primed. The last couple of days have been spent trimming the excess
from the contour of the doors. From there, I'll be sanding everything again with proper stroke patterns, and grit. I've been reading quite a bit about fiberglass prep, as well as taking
the pro advice from Steve, and Michael. Soon enough, I'll have it all looking decent with a solid primer application.

Here's where I'm at with the driver door. It shuts smoothly, but there are some waves along the seam. I'll have to be conservative with how much material is removed because the
scissor door hinge installation will probably change the gap spacing. The final trim, and fit will have to be done over the Winter.

As you can see from the swirl marks, the sanding strokes are incorrect. Why must we use a criss-cross motion? I figured small circles
would promote a smoother, and flatter finish? Does the criss-cross allow for better adhesion of the primer (like a cross-hatch will for
oil on the cylinder bore)? I can't find an answer to that question through my reading thus far.
2013-09-17 20.59.33.jpg2013-09-17 20.59.01.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

I like profile, and style of this wing! Also looking for options on the rear diffuser.
2009-lamborghini-murciela-3_600x0w.jpg2009-lamborghini-murciela_800x0w.jpg

ferrari-f430-2-big.JPG

I think I"ll call Ferrari, and Lambo dealers for pricing. Do you think I'll have to refinance my mortgage to afford either? Maybe I'll just stick to my Integra wing...

[LCD Gauges]

It's go time! Wheels are off, body is gettin' a wash, and the rear support is getting mounted. Found a bunch of good stuff tonight on the rear suspension: LR tie-rod was
1/4" extended compared to RR, and the cam bolts were not aligned very well. The alignment is a bit closer now I'm sure after grabbing the measuring tape, and a level.

The driver's door is positioned as close as possible, yet there is a crazy warp at the top of the window guide. If the bottom edge is flush with the body, and the
contour near the handle lines up, the top is angled outward as shown. Lucky for me I'll be adding scoops, and should be able to blend in the panel. I'm also hoping
the door seal will help put things into perspective.

2013-09-18 20.45.46.jpg2013-09-18 20.46.37.jpg2013-09-18 20.46.48.jpg

Fun with lasers. $29 + tax at Home Depot. Leveling platform, tri-pod, and a few attachments. I'll be using this to help line up the body,
and check for waves in the sanding. As you can see, the trunk lid has a couple of dips, and the laser flares in these areas. I guess using
my eyes, and a flashlight could do the same thing, but i needed to justify this purchase!

It appears that I have to tweak the exhaust holes, and the license plate.
2013-09-18 20.46.13.jpg2013-09-18 20.43.25.jpg2013-09-18 20.45.21.jpg2013-09-18 20.44.39.jpg

Last but not least, a little support for the rear of the car. This aluminum bar will be bolted to the tx mount after cutting to length.
Long strand fiberglass, and bolted behind the license plate for a firm hold.
2013-09-18 20.40.41.jpg