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Thread: Wilwood clutch pedal vs frame.....

  1. #1
    Senior Member rj35pj's Avatar
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    Wilwood clutch pedal vs frame.....

    P9051249.JPG

    Anyone who has installed the Wilwood pedal box in their coupe, I need advice.... It sure appears that I do not have enough clutch pedal travel before it hits the frame. (see photo) Has anyone encountered this problem or have I missed something obvious??? I want to notch the frame but maybe there is a better and easier way. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Bob

  2. #2
    Junior Member mtcoriel's Avatar
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    I just installed my wilwood pedal box had same problem. My son is a hot rod fabricator said not to modify the pedal would cause the pedal to weaken. We notched the framed then inclosed it. Take a look at this site /thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?3395-Wilwood-clutch-pedal-vs-frame.....

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    Senior Member rj35pj's Avatar
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    Thank you, that was my thinking also!!

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    Senior Member xlr8or's Avatar
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    Yep. Nothing a cut off wheel couldn't fix.
    It's never too early to start beefing up your obituary.

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    Senior Member rj35pj's Avatar
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    xlr80r, you always get right to the point!

    That is exactly what I plan to do. I will post some pics of the surgery.

  6. #6
    Senior Member xlr8or's Avatar
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    That particular tube wasn't really doing much there anyway so I just cut it out. The Wilwood pedal assy ties the two other tubes back together so I wasn't worried about losing any stiffness in that area. Having a welder to go with the cut off wheel also allows you to take a mulligan if you have to.
    It's never too early to start beefing up your obituary.

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    rj35pj

    Got me curious! I have an access panel on the footbox above the Wilwood pedal area at the side. I pushed the clutch in all the way (mine is hydraulic) and the pedal is still about 3/8" away from the frame. What gives? Looks like your mount is different. Did you double check the installation of the Wilwood pedals? Can't quite figure out why the difference. I clearly see the lack of clearance in your photo.

    Bill

  8. #8
    Senior Member rj35pj's Avatar
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    P9081246.JPGAttachment 0
    Quote Originally Posted by loeffler1 View Post
    rj35pj

    Got me curious! I have an access panel on the footbox above the Wilwood pedal area at the side. I pushed the clutch in all the way (mine is hydraulic) and the pedal is still about 3/8" away from the frame. What gives? Looks like your mount is different. Did you double check the installation of the Wilwood pedals? Can't quite figure out why the difference. I clearly see the lack of clearance in your photo.

    Bill
    Bill,
    I don't really know, my clutch is set up for a cable, perhaps there is a difference there..... Enclosed are photos of how I modified my frame. Now my clutch pedal will hit the fire wall before it hits the frame.

    This photo is the piece to be removed.
    P9081247.JPG
    The section removed and good clearance for the clutch pedal.
    P9081248.JPG
    The new frame piece welded in.
    P9081249.JPG
    P9081250.JPG
    Now painted. P9081251.JPG
    P9081252.JPG

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    Just looked at mine as well and there is no interference with the tube as in yours. Looks like you've solved it pretty well.

  10. #10
    Senior Member rj35pj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flajctype65 View Post
    Just looked at mine as well and there is no interference with the tube as in yours. Looks like you've solved it pretty well.
    Thank you, flajctype65, I just have wondered why any difference. Do you have the Wilwood pedals using a cable for the clutch? I like to do modifictations I just want to make sure I have not missed something.

  11. #11
    Senior Member xlr8or's Avatar
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    I didn't even notice it in the picture. I have the triple master setup for a hydraulic clutch and the interference was with a cross tube not the one you are hitting.
    It's never too early to start beefing up your obituary.

  12. #12
    Senior Member rj35pj's Avatar
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    hydraulic clutch vs cable is one better than the other?

  13. #13
    Senior Member xlr8or's Avatar
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    I think preference more than anything else. If you blow the hydraulics you don't have a clutch? If you break the cable you don't have a clutch.
    Hydro gives you more options of where to run the lines.
    It's never too early to start beefing up your obituary.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rj35pj View Post
    Thank you, flajctype65, I just have wondered why any difference. Do you have the Wilwood pedals using a cable for the clutch? I like to do modifictations I just want to make sure I have not missed something.
    I do have Wilwood pedals and am using the 3 MC setup with a hydraulic clutch.

  15. #15
    Richard Oben's Avatar
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    Went and looked at local car, we are going to try and move the box over to get the clearance. having to cut the frame is just dumb, did anyone ever check the box at FFR before shipping them? JMHO, Richard.
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    So, is cutting the frame the only option to improve clutch play in the type 65 coupe? Any other suggestions, as I don't want to cut the frame if not necessary. Does FFR have any suggestions, as I imagine that many builders are experiencing the same issue? Thanks.

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    Senior Member FMJ's Avatar
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    Thanks. You Rock!

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    I slotted the holes in the steel bracket that mounts the pedal box to the firewall so that I could slide the pedal box in-board to buy some extra clearance. Moving the pedal box put the clutch quadrant out of alignment with the hole in the fire wall but I'm installing a hydraulic clutch so I don't care. I like this method because it doesn't weaken the structure of the car. On the other hand, it moves the gas pedal closer to the inboard wall, if you're using a clutch cable it will probably wear out faster than normal and it will only buy you about half an inch of clearance so if you're really off it probably won't help.

    Tom

  20. #20
    Member GT-Tom's Avatar
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    Just finished installing my Wilwood pedal box in my Mark IV Roadster and noticed the clutch pedal will hit the frame tube at full travel. I am thinking of notching the frame tube but wonder if the Whitby brake booster frame mod would work for this application? Anybody tried it?

    Tom

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  21. #21

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    Another viable option is to move the pedal box straight back toward the driver, perhaps using aluminum spacers, if you are using a hydraulic clutch. The Wilwood pedals have plenty of adjustability in them to compensate for moving the pedal box back.

    I am not sure if this would work with a cable-operated clutch. It might leave you with insufficient slack in the cable to connect to the clutch fork and require more modification to create the correct distance between the clutch quadrant and the firewall or adjuster. On the other hand, a good adjustable clutch cable may have enough extra length to correct this - but I don't know.

    I have some photos of a clutch stop I made somewhere in my frame mods thread.

    EDIT: As for the Whitby's frame mod, I believe that this addresses a separate problem, namely lack of space for a vacuum booster in front of the 3/16" front-of-footbox plate. If I understand the Whitby part correctly, it will not create additional room behind the footbox's front plate for the new Wilwood pedals to swing freely throughout their range of motion. If I am mistaken I am sure someone will correct me.
    Last edited by Jacob McCrea; 05-30-2012 at 05:03 PM.

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