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Thread: Battery cable routing

  1. #1
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    Battery cable routing

    Does anyone have any recommendations or pics of the battery cable routing from the trunk to starter?

    The manual seems to imply it passes under the frame and within the transmission tunnel.

  2. #2
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    I ran mine on the right side of the tranny, you can see the red cable in the pic.
    Later on in the build I covered the battery cable with corrugated tubing. I also covered the fuel line with a heat reflecting covering from Summit.
    Both run just under the floor.

    DSCN1612.JPG

    Battery&Fuel.JPG
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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  4. #3
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    I ran mine in the tunnel but secured it over and out of the way of the driveshaft. There's plenty of room.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I ran mine on the right side of the tranny, you can see the red cable in the pic.
    Later on in the build I covered the battery cable with corrugated tubing. I also covered the fuel line with a heat reflecting covering from Summit.
    Both run just under the floor.

    DSCN1612.JPG

    Battery&Fuel.JPG
    Did it pass through the driveshaft tunnel or under the floor? I like the heat shield. thanks for the help.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by cob427sc View Post
    I ran mine in the tunnel but secured it over and out of the way of the driveshaft. There's plenty of room.
    Did you clip it to the frame rail or the aluminum? Thanks for the assist

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Higgi56 View Post
    Did it pass through the driveshaft tunnel or under the floor? I like the heat shield. thanks for the help.
    Neither run thru the driveshaft tunnel. I fastened them to the frame under the floor.
    I didn't want it anywhere near the driveshaft in the unlikely event the driveshaft or u-joints broke.
    Didn't want the fuel and battery cable to get hit. Fuel and sparks don't go well together.
    Last edited by JimLev; 03-15-2020 at 04:49 PM.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  8. #7
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    I attached the cable with the supplied clips to the side of the tunnel, on the inside. The driveshaft and universal are in the tunnel and I suppose could be an issue if it broke. However, I've never had the universal on a vehicle break at that location. All the ones I've broken were on the rear end connection.

  9. #8
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    A driveshaft safety hoop is an added precaution, is worth taking. Not just for the battery cable, or any other wiring routed through this area, but it might save your butt from a beating.
    I used these type of harness attachments, which were nice as they allowed for the multiple looms run down the tunnel, without each loom needing it's own attachment. I riveted them to the tunnel frame, then just picked the appropriate size zip-tie needed.

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    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

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