Coyote P0704

[hogauto]

I went for a ride today and everything is working great. Stop for gas and when I go to start I turn the key and nothing. I turn the key off and back on and with the key in start position a pause of about 2 seconds and then it starts. When I get home I start it several times with no problems but it does have code P0704. Any suggestions?

[Indy Shu]

The google machine says clutch pedal position circuit. Check connections and switch adjustment.

[Svtfreak]

Mine has the little delay from key to start all the time. (Auto trans).

[hogauto]

I cleared the code and went for a short ride. It started normally with the slight hesitation before starting. I started it two times and the code is back . I checked wiring and adjustment and it seems fine. Any ideas

[edwardb]

I'm assuming you're using the upper clutch switch supplied with the Ford Performance control pack? Plugged into the control pack harness? If so, would think it's impossible to mess up the wiring. The switch itself is a very simple normally open (NO) single throw switch. Pushing the clutch pedal down closes it and the PCM should allow the engine to start. It has a pretty wide adjustment range on the plunger. But easy enough to check with a VOM that it's closing when the clutch pedal is pushed down. Always the chance the switch itself has failed. Listed as Ford part number 6G9Z-11A152-A.

[hogauto]

Yes it’s the upper switch that came with the crate. It’s started every time so far. I could try another switch. It should be fun to change with the body on.

[edwardb]

Yes it’s the upper switch that came with the crate. It’s started every time so far. I could try another switch. It should be fun to change with the body on.

Agreed it's starting, but shouldn't be throwing that code. I personally haven't seen the code in the two Coyote builds I've done. So can't say what specific problem would cause it. I'm not necessarily suggesting changing the switch. Just check that it's actuating properly by looking at it in operation and measuring with a VOM. It's a less than $10 switch, but if all seems OK, no point in changing it. Sorry I can't be any more help than that. The Ford Performance help desk phone is off line. But they are available to chat. Might be worth a shot.

[hogauto]

I was going to call them today but instead I’ll try the chat. Thanks

[Svtfreak]

I tried that chat over and over and over for 3 days and couldn’t get them. “Helping other customers”. Finally, my problem resolved itself, so I never did get them that way. I had much better luck with the email. They emailed me back the very next business day with a reply saying they’d call me later that day. By then, whatever gremlin I had had taken leave so I told them never mind.

But your problem is unusual. If the switch failed, I’d expect it to fail open which means it would never start. But I guess it’s possible to fail closed. Try starting it in gear. If it still starts, then there is your answer. Maybe it never sees the switch go open if it’s failed closed and knows it should have since your moving. If it tries to start in gear, then switch is bad. If it won’t start, then the ecu is seeing something we don’t realize it’s looking at.

On a side note @hogauto, I see your sig says you have a 50th anniversary Mustang. You have one of the numbered 1964? What color, ww or KB? What number? I ordered and purchased #275 originally, drove it for 4 years and got rid of it. Realized I made a mistake, found #1596 (exact same ww/auto) with 400 miles on it, 2/4 years left on warranty since it sat on original dealers lot 3 years before selling, so I bought it. We almost bought a 3rd KB one recently for the wife but we have too many kids still home. Maybe in 3-4 years if I can find a almost new one then. They really are special cars.

[hogauto]

I did the chat this morning without an issue getting on it. Unfortunately he didn’t have an answer so they are researching it. I might be missing something but there isn’t any way for it to know if it’s in gear or in neutral ? I have tried it with the clutch out and it will not turn over until I push in the clutch.
I have number 865 in Wimbledon white. It really is a great car. Most people don’t realize that it is a special car unless you tell them.

[Svtfreak]

Yeah I’m not sure what your ecu is seeing. I’d say just drive it then! The computer doesn’t know what gear a manual is in.

1FA6P8R*******865 MT WW 11/20/14 PA. (Your checksum is 9).

There ya go! I had documented each and every one upon build and where it was originally shipped. Even had the last name of all that where customer orders and not stock orders. There is a Facebook group for them also and a sub forum over on mustang 6g. Tons of info. Maybe I’ll see you there. My wife is Facebook group member. I don’t have FB so she lets me borrow hers for that. There’s a dude there that can tell you what sequential production number yours was also.

[hogauto]

That’s pretty cool. I also don’t have fb so my wife is joining it now.
I’m concerned about the code because I’m afraid it will let me sitting some time.

[edwardb]

I did the chat this morning without an issue getting on it. Unfortunately he didn’t have an answer so they are researching it. I might be missing something but there isn’t any way for it to know if it’s in gear or in neutral ? I have tried it with the clutch out and it will not turn over until I push in the clutch.

Yeah, the crate motor/control pack setup doesn't know what gear you're in, neutral, whatever. Some guys wire in the Tremec neutral switch. But it's just another switch in the start circuit. Nothing the PCM knows about. Right, it shouldn't crank unless the clutch pedal is pushed down and the bottom clutch switch closed. I'm assuming you are using the start wire from the control pack to the small post on the starter. And you don't have the Ron Francis clutch interlock switch installed, with the blue wires either tied off or removed. You should only have one RF blue wire from the ignition switch start terminal to the control pack light blue Starter Motor Request (SMR) wire. It's a simple enough setup. If the switch is properly adjusted and actuating, just not sure what could go wrong. Hopefully our friends at Ford will have some suggestions. I wouldn't be comfortable with it throwing codes either. Once the Gen 2 Coyote in my Roadster was sorted out, it hasn't thrown a code for 3+ years now. (Probably shouldn't say that out loud. )

[Svtfreak]

Yeah I agree. Having any codes would also make me nervous.

[Railroad]

I think I read where you cleared the code and it returned. You might consider this, and do not know if it will correct the issue or not, but it is a well used procedure. ,,, disconnect the battery and turn the key on, do not try to start, turn off, wait a few minutes and reconnect. When you start the engine again, let it idle for at least 2 minutes.
Did I tell, I do not know what I am talking about, LOL.
good luck,

[hogauto]

I’ll give it a try. It can’t hurt

[hogauto]

Check engine light is staying off. Jon Jr at Lund Racing did something in the latest tune and said it shouldn’t come back on .

[edwardb]

Check engine light is staying off. Jon Jr at Lund Racing did something in the latest tune and said it shouldn’t come back on .

Hopefully you mean he did something to suppress that DTC itself or that it lights the MIL. Which not every trouble code does. Not turned off the MIL in general. Jon Jr did my last tune and I was really happy with the work he did. Seems to know his stuff. I'm sure he did it the right way. Still a strange one, but good to hear it's resolved.