To those with Gen2 kits...what is this part of the frame for that I've circled in the attached pic. I'm going to be installing a 4 link suspension (FFR's Moser reared) but I don't believe this is for the 4-link suspension.....or is it? Thanks Jim
That is for the 3 link. I was told to just leave it. After the body goes on it kinda doesn't get seen. The logic for leaving it is if you or next owner want to change to 3 link.
Dean
arrived July 18th 2019, first cart in Feb. 2020
BluePrint Engines 383CI TKO600 GM Street&Strip
Ridler wheels 17x 8 front 20 x 10 rear
Toyo Proxes 245/35-17 front
285/25-20 rear
0mm offset finished Jan 2022
That is for the 3 link. I was told to just leave it. After the body goes on it kinda doesn't get seen. The logic for leaving it is if you or next owner want to change to 3 link.
Dean
Thanks Dean....appreciate the response...I won't worry about it then considering I'm doing a 4-Link suspension.
Now if only my upper control arms would get here from FFR I could install the moser rearend.
Finished up plumbing the front brake lines last night......kept things low and tight in the pedal box area and stuck close to the frame where-ever possible. Working in the front shock area was fun but it turned out okay so I'm happy.
Still waiting on my 90 degree 3 AN male to 1/8 NPT 90 degree fitting for the hydraulic clutch M/C
Also brought home the engine/tranny so I can swap out the valve covers & air cleaner with the ones I bought (went with black with red lettering Ford Racing covers, air cleaner & breather). Also need to remove the mechanical fuel pump and get the block off plate installed since I installed an electrical fuel pump.
The rear brake line is ran to about mid chassis, I'll finish that up one of these nights.
To those with Gen2 kits...what is this part of the frame for that I've circled in the attached pic. I'm going to be installing a 4 link suspension (FFR's Moser reared) but I don't believe this is for the 4-link suspension.....or is it? Thanks Jim
After reading another post concerning the drill shavings going down your neck if you drill the floor rivets from under the car, I decided to flip my frame & drill the holes downward. Imagine my surprise when, after looking at the frame upside down, I see the panhard bar mount for the 3 link sticking up in the air. Then I realized there were no mountings for my IRS. That was 2 weeks ago. Still waiting on the frame I ordered.
Jim, you are moving right along! You may want to check your front shocks and verify if they can be run body up like you have them.
Doh.... good catch...for some reason when I read body down my mind was thinking the spring down.... I'll switch with them around, THANK YOU for pointing that out. I appreciate the feedback.
After reading another post concerning the drill shavings going down your neck if you drill the floor rivets from under the car, I decided to flip my frame & drill the holes downward. Imagine my surprise when, after looking at the frame upside down, I see the panhard bar mount for the 3 link sticking up in the air. Then I realized there were no mountings for my IRS. That was 2 weeks ago. Still waiting on the frame I ordered.
Any ETA on when you're supposed to get your replacement frame Jim? That would really stink, sorry to hear that. I'm still waiting on my upper control arms to be able to install the moser 4-Link rear-end....talked with FFR the other day, sounds like it's shipping early next week. Hope my wheels /tires ship too, I'd like to get this to a rolling chassis so I can drip the engine / transmission in soon. Discovered yesterday FFR errored and sent two right side motor mounts so they are shipping a new set out which should be here this weekend.
On your comment about the shaving going down you neck, yeah, that would suck.....as I mentioned earlier in the thread I was glad I have the lift so I could do that part standing up (along with brake lines and fuel line, etc.). Before buying the lift I remember welding a bracket under one of my classic mustangs laying on the ground and a weld splatter went down my shirt....HOLY COW, I couldn't get out from under the car fast enough.
I was told it would ship Tuesday the 13th. Emailed for update o status Friday the 16th, since I had heard nothing. Got a short reply that the kit was packed and the body (I had originally ordered only the stage 1 kit, but decided since I had to send the frame back, to buy the complete kit) was "out back" whatever that means.
I was told it would ship Tuesday the 13th. Emailed for update o status Friday the 16th, since I had heard nothing. Got a short reply that the kit was packed and the body (I had originally ordered only the stage 1 kit, but decided since I had to send the frame back, to buy the complete kit) was "out back" whatever that means.
Hopefully it shipped for you... I just got a Fed-Ex tracking number so I'm hoping that means at least my upper controls shipped. I hoping my rims / tires shipped too, but I have some old ones laying around if they don't Good luck
Doh.... good catch...for some reason when I read body down my mind was thinking the spring down.... I'll switch with them around, THANK YOU for pointing that out. I appreciate the feedback.
Front shocks switched around...Thanks again McGuyver
In parallel to the 33 HR build I have a 55 F100 frame off restoration going on as well...finished up the frame / suspension on that this weekend started working on rust proofing components on the box so I can get that assembled.
Not doing heat/AC? just noticed where you put the wiring through the firewall (vs the trans tunnel)...
Steve
Nope...no heat / AC
I'm used to all my classics which are convertibles not having AC and as far as heat goes.....there will be plenty of heat from the engine and exhaust right under the passenger compartment.
Not doing heat/AC? just noticed where you put the wiring through the firewall (vs the trans tunnel)...
Steve
This guy here in Texas laughing at guy from BC unbelievably questioning a guy from SD about not installing AC in a street rod....
I may be ignorant here, but I'd think the climate in Couve is pretty mild, and can't imagine it gets very hot in Rapid...
It'll be a cool 90*F here today.
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
This guy here in Texas laughing at guy from BC unbelievably questioning a guy from SD about not installing AC in a street rod....
I may be ignorant here, but I'd think the climate in Couve is pretty mild, and can't imagine it gets very hot in Rapid...
It'll be a cool 90*F here today.
With 110% humidity. lol
33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.
This guy here in Texas laughing at guy from BC unbelievably questioning a guy from SD about not installing AC in a street rod....
That would be funny, except that wasn't my intent at least. No idea what options he has or hasn't but just wanted to make sure that he thought about that wiring routing if he did plan on putting heat/AC in.
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
That would be funny, except that wasn't my intent at least. No idea what options he has or hasn't but just wanted to make sure that he thought about that wiring routing if he did plan on putting heat/AC in.
And I do appreciate you looking out for me. Always better to question something in my opinion.
Also ordered a black distributor cap...the HEI distributor with the coil pack built in is huge and now that I changed to black valve covers and black air cleaner the distributor cap sticks out like a sore thumb being baby blue.
You are making great progress!
This weekend my son will be home so we're going to drop in my 302 and T5. The FFR book pictures of the tranny bracket are too low of resolution to determine which way the u shaped part of the tranny bracket mounts to the frame. So I was very interested in your pictures, thanks for sharing them. Have you checked the transmission angle to the rear end on your car yet?
Last edited by e36m3; 10-27-2020 at 11:32 AM.
33 Hot Rod with Deluxe Grill (32) Hood & sides, Bike Fenders, Hard Top, AC, Power Windows, Electric Power Steering, 306 Ford Small Block - roller cam, aluminum heads, Eldenbrock intake & carb, T5, Moser 3 link, Arrived 5/6/20.
You are making great progress!
This weekend my son will be home so we're going to drop in my 302 and T5. The FFR book pictures of the tranny bracket are too low of resolution to determine which way the u shaped part of the tranny bracket mounts to the frame. So I was very interested in your pictures, thanks for sharing them. Have you checked the transmission angle to the rear end on your car yet?
Right now the the tranny angle is up and the differential is down which is how it should be but to what actual degrees I don't know yet, I won't take any actually degree measurements until I have it sitting on it's wheels which are expected early next week. If I had to guess I would say I'm ~2* up by the tranny and ~2* down by the diff.
Here is a close up of the tranny mount. The T5 mounted to a 302 is going to use the 1st slot in the frame. You can see how I positioned the bracket. I did not use the spacers, the angle was way too high with the spacers.
The following was completed tonight:
* 6" Lokar shift handle installed (waiting on shift knob to arrive)
* Drive Shaft installed
* Rear aluminum panel glued / riveted in
* Aluminum tunnel cover riveted in
Ha I say.... Now my friend owes me $100 and 2 cases of beer
Back story on that...The engine / tranny came assembled from BluePrint engines and since they ran the whole unit I know all the alignment was properly set so I didn't want to remove the tranny/bellhousing to install Mike Forte's bracket for the slave cylinder so I installed the engine and tranny in the car as you know.
In order to install Mike's bracket you have to drill 3/8" holes through the bell housing. Are you cringing yet? I was studying to figure out if I could do it. About that time my friend comes in the garage to check out the 33's progress and asked what I was looking at, and I explained it to him and he basically said "man, you're screwed....at a minimum you're going to have to pull the tranny.". I said nope, I bet I can figure out a way too do it with everything in the car and leave no metal shavings inside the bell housing.
He hates to lose and I love a good challenge so he said "No way, I'll bet you $100 and 2 cases of beer that you'll never do it.".
Okay, so to my lack of admission at the time, I had to do something similar about 2 years back and it's really tough to do but I knew it could be done.
I pulled out the 12" long 1/8", 3/16", 5/16", 1/4" and 3/8" drill bits, as well as the gorilla tape (really sticky stuff, don't try this with normal duct tape). My friend was scratching his head at this point wondering what I was trying to do.
I removed the reverse switch from the side of the tranny so I had a straight shot to the area I needed to drill.
The trick is going slow, but basically you take a 2"x2" piece of gorilla tape, put it inside the bell housing in the area you're going to drill making sure the tape is stuck really well under the hole you're drilling, and then while drilling slow (it's only aluminum so low rpm is fine), as you feel the drill bit coming through the other side, press the gorilla tape around the hole to capture the metal shavings (the majority are pulled out from the outside anyway). Remove the drill bit, repress on the tape all around the hole, and then slowly pull the tape out, and the metal shaving will be stuck to the tape.
Rinse and repeat for every hole size drilled but be sure to use a new piece of tape each time.
20 minutes later, my friend was speechless except to say "sure, you got the holes drill but there has to be metal shaving on the inside", so I pulled out the endoscope I had, and let him explore the inside of bell housing and he just stood up and said "Crap...I'll stop by next week with the money and beer".
Not for the faint of heart, and actually putting on the nuts on the inside of the bellhousing made me more nervous but it beats all the additional time that it would have taken to do this with the tranny off the bell hosing.
so, bracket is installed and I also installed the clevis bracket on the fork handle. This weekend I'll install the slave cylinder and run the line to the mater cylinder.
But, let's back up.. you have a 12" long 1/8" bit? I can't even imagine how that works. I snap my 1/8" bits daily.. a 12" one??? Damn
Yup.....12" 1/8 bit...but keep in mind I'm drilling into aluminum at a slow speed, I would never use it on steel....like you said, it would snap or bend in an instance in that situation at higher speeds.
I primarily only use the longer ones for softer metal or wood.
You sir are a better mechanic than I.
Didn't know they made 12" long 1/8" bits.
33 Hot Rod with Deluxe Grill (32) Hood & sides, Bike Fenders, Hard Top, AC, Power Windows, Electric Power Steering, 306 Ford Small Block - roller cam, aluminum heads, Eldenbrock intake & carb, T5, Moser 3 link, Arrived 5/6/20.
For those doing Mike Forte's Hydraulic Clutch system on a T5, it's pretty straight forward...here is what I did:
1) Drill 2 holes in the bellhousing using the bracket as a template
2) mount bracket inside bellhousing
3) mount clevis bracket onto clutch fork
4) Figure out how much you need to cut off the pushrod...in my case it was 1-3/6", that left me about 1/8" end play
5) install slave cylinder to bracket on T5
6) Install pushrod on clevis pin
7) plumb hydraulic line
8) Bleed system (I still need to do this)
9) adjust accordingly (I still need to do this but I'm pretty close I'm guessing)
Your build looks fantastic. I was looking at your tranny mount and noticed that you flipped the mount. I mounted mine with the u pointed down as that was the only way to get my pinion angle correct. I would just move the rear jack stands to the differential and check the angle again. The car does not really settle that much when on the ground as it does not weigh very much. I used the Tremec tool app on my smart phone to check the angle as its very simple. I will enclose a picture that I used to get it close. A lot of folks have had problems with this part of the build. Ray
It may not settle much, but your set ride height makes a huge difference to the angles here. I couldn't get anywhere close to ok, but my ride height was 2" out. With the right heights, it was super easy to get it right. I was surprised how much the ride height affected this part.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Originally Posted by Blade
