Camera's 818C

[mcamera]

Glad you got the engine installed by yourself! We decided to forego the load leveler and used three nylon straps, and one of us lifted / pushed the tail of the transmission to adjust the angle.

Thanks Bob for posting about the upper bearing race. I didn’t catch that on ours and realize we need to remove the transaxle cover and shatter that puppy out of there.

A flathead screwdriver and needle nose pliers weren't working for me, even with a lot of force, but a 90º pick fit behind the race and pulled it out very easily.

[Scott Meyer]

Do you think it would have come out eventually? We have a lot to disassemble now to get back inside...the rear housing.

[mcamera]

Do you think it would have come out eventually? We have a lot to disassemble now to get back inside...the rear housing.

Initially I thought no when trying with the pliers, but it's just a well toleranced hole. Once I used the pick, it slid straight out easily. I can imagine the vibration of the car working it out pretty easily.

[mcamera]

I have a couple questions about the Boyd fuel tank, but they're closed until 1/4.

Will I need to change anything to work with the Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump that's included?

Which fuel level sensor option works with the WRX gear? Standard No Fuel Level Sensor / Add 0-90 OHM Sensor / Add flange block off kit

Thanks for any help!

[roadrashrob]

If you get through to Boyd, please let me know. I reached out to them a month ago to try and purchase and identical tank to Bob_n_Cincy's, but they said that with Covid they were behind and not taking on any custom tanks until the new year. I emailed them and said I was in no rush, but never heard back. Now that I have my kit, I was planning on following up with them next week.

[STiPWRD]

I have a couple questions about the Boyd fuel tank, but they're closed until 1/4.

Will I need to change anything to work with the Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump that's included?

Which fuel level sensor option works with the WRX gear? Standard No Fuel Level Sensor / Add 0-90 OHM Sensor / Add flange block off kit

Thanks for any help!

The Aeromotive 340 is a drop in replacement for the stock fuel pump and comes with its own new hanger in the Boyd tank. One thing to consider is that it is a higher capacity pump and will draw about double the current of the stock pump at high load (full throttle). The stock fuel controller will support the Stealth 340 but I wouldn't consider it a reliable long term solution. To be on the safe side, I went ahead and upgraded my fuel controller and power wires. Some others have also just bypassed the oem fuel controller and run a thicker 12V power wire directly to the Stealth 340 but this presents 2 possible issues - (1) running the pump flat out all the time reduces its lifetime and (2) the oem fuel pressure regulator has difficulty keeping up with the higher flowing pump so the car will run a good bit richer. I also ended up getting an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator for more consistent fuel pressure.

The Subaru fuel level sender is designed to read 104 ohms empty and 4 ohms with a full tank. I believe Boyd's sender comes 0 ohms empty and 90 ohms full, so you will need to take it apart and flip the float lever, which is pretty easy.

[mcamera]

Thank you for the explanation! I "hotwired" the fuel pump in my old 3000GT like you've mentioned with the thicker wire directly to the pump. I'll keep the fuel controller and FPR in mind for when I move beyond stock power and stress the fuel system more.

I added the optional 0-90 fuel level sender to my Boyd tank, so I'll make sure to flip that around to 90-0. I found a few posts about this on the forum and it sounded like the easiest way to have an accurate fuel gauge. No adding resistors to manipulate the sensor readings, no fuel gauge that never reads full, no guessing when the car is actually near empty.

[mcamera]

I randomly read a comment that the dead pedal aluminum isn't mentioned in the instructions. Sure enough, it's in the pic but not talked about so I had to go back and fit those in. I'm overly proud of my solution on the passenger side where I already had rivets from the front firewall. I drilled out holes so the aluminum would sit flat rather than on top of rivet heads.

IMG_0409.jpg

Is there a piece that's supposed to cover this hole where the coolant pipe goes under the dead pedal? I'm ready to add sound deadening to the floor and I want to make sure all the aluminum is down first. There has to be something that covers this hole.

IMG_0410.jpg

My gas pedal flexes a good 1/4" when pressing it so I'm looking for a way to stiffen it up. Most of the flexing is coming from the gap between the pedal and the metal bracket. There is also some flexing of the metal bracket itself though. I tried this aluminum shim which helped but not enough. I might need to make an extra brace or bracket out of angle aluminum. I'm open to ideas if anybody has one.

IMG_0411.jpg IMG_0412.jpg

[roadrashrob]

[QUOTE=mcamera;440452]Is there a piece that's supposed to cover this hole where the coolant pipe goes under the dead pedal? I'm ready to add sound deadening to the floor and I want to make sure all the aluminum is down first. There has to be something that covers this hole.

IMG_0410.jpg
In the class, that got closed off much later in the project....

[RPGs818SNA]

Here's what the piece looks like when installed. It takes some adjusting to get it to fit nicely.hole filler.jpg

[roadrashrob]

Do you actually have your box 6 with all the Aluminum? It would be in that.

[mcamera]

I have box 6, I just can't find in the manual where it says to install it or the part number. I'll take a look at the parts sheet for box 6.

I don't see a problem installing it now. I'll still have access to the coolant pipe that passes through from the outside of the car if I need it.

[roadrashrob]

Lucky you!!! I'm not looking to putting on those bottom panels later whenever I finally receive mine. Was hoping to do it with the car on its side, and even flip it upside down and coat the bottom with Bed Liner. May still be ambitious and build a rotisserie for the car! but that may be over-ambitious given everything else that we need to do... :-)

[aquillen]

Rotisserie - I used my engine dolly from Harbor Freight for a few days on one end of the frame, and the other hung on a BIG c-clamp hanging off my chain hoist hook. Hairy looking but worked great.

[RPGs818SNA]

My gas pedal flexes a good 1/4" when pressing it so I'm looking for a way to stiffen it up. Most of the flexing is coming from the gap between the pedal and the metal bracket. There is also some flexing of the metal bracket itself though. I tried this aluminum shim which helped but not enough. I might need to make an extra brace or bracket out of angle aluminum. I'm open to ideas if anybody has one.

There are several good ideas here:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tle-Pedal-Stop

I’m better at woodworking than metalworking, so I used half a 2x4, notched it to fit, painted it black to look like steel, and bolted it in. I had to chisel out a little under the pedal to get full depression, using old fashioned carbon paper to mark the spot. I’m pretty sure it’s stronger than I am.

wooden throttle stop.jpg

[mcamera]

There are several good ideas here:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tle-Pedal-Stop

I’m better at woodworking than metalworking, so I used half a 2x4, notched it to fit, painted it black to look like steel, and bolted it in. I had to chisel out a little under the pedal to get full depression, using old fashioned carbon paper to mark the spot. I’m pretty sure it’s stronger than I am.

wooden throttle stop.jpg

I like the pedal stop ideas, I might have to do something like that. I'm more concerned about the gas pedal wiggling side to side when being pressed though, than the bracket being pressed too far and needing a stop.

[mcamera]

Painted the rusty rear spindles. I thought they would be an eye sore in the engine bay if I didn't.

IMG_0246.jpg IMG_0269.jpg

From sitting in the car without a seat, the steering wheel seemed really close to my body and I've seen the gap between the column and dashboard in other builds so I compressed the column 1" to start. I had to drill a 3rd set of mounting holes to bolt the column in. I'll do a final check whenever I get seats and the dashboard in. I might compress it more.

IMG_0386.jpg

I bought a red caliper paint kit, but decided I didn't want to show off how small the Subaru calipers are so I returned it for a black paint kit. TireRack has awesome customer service. It turned out really well. Time consuming prep work and not as smooth as powdercoating, but unless your face is 2ft away you would never know. Especially once they're hiding behind rims. Custom decals are on the way but I might just leave them black.

IMG_0424.jpg IMG_0434.JPEG

I've been running brake lines which is proving to be tricky. I'm very particular though. I'm worried about rattling or buzzing if the line is too close to surrounding metal so I've been very careful with my routing.

IMG_0422.jpg IMG_0423.jpg

[Scott Meyer]

How did you go about compressing the steering column? We’ve mocked our new seats up and the steering wheel is definitely too close for comfort. Brake lines are fun, aren’t they! We just got ours completed along with clutch lines, but haven’t tried to fill or bleed the system yet.

[Ajzride]

How did you go about compressing the steering column? We’ve mocked our new seats up and the steering wheel is definitely too close for comfort. Brake lines are fun, aren’t they! We just got ours completed along with clutch lines, but haven’t tried to fill or bleed the system yet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post150494

[mcamera]

How did you go about compressing the steering column? We’ve mocked our new seats up and the steering wheel is definitely too close for comfort. Brake lines are fun, aren’t they! We just got ours completed along with clutch lines, but haven’t tried to fill or bleed the system yet.

I marked every 0.25" inches on the middle tube with a sharpie so I could see how much I was compressing the column. You can see it in this pic. Then using a hammer I gently tapped the middle tube down 1". Then I hammered the top skinny tube down 1". It compresses easily with a hammer.

IMG_0386.jpg

I had to drill new holes to bolt the column to the frame, just below the 2 sets of holes that came on the frame. In this pic it's the furthest holes, towards the front of the car. Make sure you leave enough room for the bolt head when you choose the location for the new set of holes. Not a lot of room to play with since the bracket is angled.

IMG_0435.jpg

[Ajzride]

If you also want to drop the column along with shortening it, I have a 3D printable bracket to drop it and also move the holes back so you don't have to re-drill.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4197710

[mcamera]

If you also want to drop the column along with shortening it, I have a 3D printable bracket to drop it and also move the holes back so you don't have to re-drill.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4197710

Did you print it as a solid part or partial fill? Is it PLA? I think you'd want it to be pretty strong so your steering wheel doesn't fall in your lap while driving.

[Ajzride]

Did you print it as a solid part or partial fill? Is it PLA? I think you'd want it to be pretty strong so your steering wheel doesn't fall in your lap while driving.

I printed it in PLA with solid infill, it's very sturdy. I also printed it in PETG but it was too springy.

[mcamera]

Still working on the brake/clutch lines. The instructions only talk about bending the lines but I had to cut and double flare a couple lines to make them fit well. You would have to bend some crazy shapes to take up the leftover brake line length in some areas. I don't think there's a good way to avoid cutting and flaring with the supplied brake lines. I painted the hats on my rotors black so they don't rust and after a lot of research on whether I could paint the braking surface or not I just went for it. It's a heated debate on some forums about the paint ruining the brake pads the first time they scrape the surface clean and you should never paint a braking surface, but it seems like plenty of people have done it without issues. It's easier to paint the whole surface and let the brake pads scrape the paint off of the braking surface. Leaving the rest of the rotor nicely painted.

IMG_0451.jpg

I'm missing the flexible clutch line that attaches to the slave cylinder so I ordered one along with a carbon fiber turbo jacket (my turbo is currently a beautiful rust color, and this will also reduce heat in the bay), a new fuel filter (recommended in the FFR manual since I'm about to start working on the fuel system), and some black Muteki lug nuts (I don't have any and they put me over the price needed for free shipping). I reinstalled my slave cylinder and my clutch fork was too short and jammed against the trans housing. I did something strange when I mated my transmission back to my engine so I had to pull them back apart a little bit and pull the fork up to reach the slave cylinder. Easy fix and everything is moving normally now.

IMG_0445.jpg IMG_0457.jpg

Still waiting on IRS brackets for my rear suspension which are holding up a few things. I'm not going to put my rear brakes on until I get the suspension installed. So I'll have to wait to bleed my brake lines. I still find it funny that FFR can assemble an entire car kit in 10 weeks, yet this bracket has been on backorder for 6 months. Supply chain is a tricky beast lol. They've been good at communicating with me though which is appreciated. My Boyd fuel tank should arrive tomorrow too!

[Scott Meyer]

Hey if you need a brand new banjo bolt (free) for the WRX slave cylinder let me know. I’ve got one that didn’t fit our 2.5 NA transmission.

Sorry you didn’t get the rear IRS brackets yet. I bugged Bob @ F5 shipping incessantly and that’s the only POL item he sent us to date (oh and some black plastic trim). We still don’t have Box 6 (all of the aluminum). Just about ready to start the engine and we don’t have any under body aluminum.

At this point I’m not sure if call their communication good, or just polite when they reply a day or two later when I ask for a status update.

As for the brake lines, I think I’ve cut the factory end off every one that was going to the OEM connection and double flared new Metric ends on, so we didn’t have to use the adapters, but your correct, it’s nearly impossible to use the lengths provided without having to do the flared ends.

[roadrashrob]

Did you print it as a solid part or partial fill? Is it PLA? I think you'd want it to be pretty strong so your steering wheel doesn't fall in your lap while driving.

I picked up a solid piece of 1/2" Aluminum from OnlineMetals.com and will fab a bracket similar to the 3D model Ajzride printed, but with holes where I need them not grooves as I can't mill the grooves. Will also cut out a good portion of the center to shed weight/bulk.

[roadrashrob]

Also, 6 months on the IRS brackets??? That would have me at summer before I can even think of a rolling chassis.... :-(

[mcamera]

Scott Meyer
Hey if you need a brand new banjo bolt (free) for the WRX slave cylinder let me know. I’ve got one that didn’t fit our 2.5 NA transmission.

Sorry you didn’t get the rear IRS brackets yet. I bugged Bob @ F5 shipping incessantly and that’s the only POL item he sent us to date (oh and some black plastic trim). We still don’t have Box 6 (all of the aluminum). Just about ready to start the engine and we don’t have any under body aluminum.

At this point I’m not sure if call their communication good, or just polite when they reply a day or two later when I ask for a status update.

As for the brake lines, I think I’ve cut the factory end off every one that was going to the OEM connection and double flared new Metric ends on, so we didn’t have to use the adapters, but your correct, it’s nearly impossible to use the lengths provided without having to do the flared ends.

Thanks for the offer but I should be set. Ordered a clutch line and I have the original banjo bolt. Missing Box 6 shouldn't be too bad for you guys. You'll get a good shoulder workout drilling and mounting the floor aluminum though! I'm being polite since they respond to all my emails within a day, but not a lot of action is being taken. I only used a metric fitting on the brake master cylinder where the line has to stay low to clear the windshield surround. I had to cut that line anyways. The only other cut I made was the middle of the brake line running down the driver side. Everything else I managed to bend the lines to avoid cutting and flaring.

Also, 6 months on the IRS brackets??? That would have me at summer before I can even think of a rolling chassis.... :-(

I ordered my car at the end of July and I'm still waiting on a few parts including the IRS brackets. I'm being told some of my parts are being shipped at the end of this week so we'll see.

[mcamera]

It's here, it's aluminum, and it's beautiful. I've seen some people put foam under the fuel tank when they install it. Has anybody tried anything else that they did or didn't like? I have 1mm thick foam I could easily use as a buffer.

Also do the slotted holes in the floor at the back of the fuel tank area need to stay open? I'm guessing this is for water drainage since the 818 normally doesn't separate the engine bay from the gas tank and water could collect there and rust. I have a 2nd firewall between the tank and engine so I'm less concerned about this. I'm more concerned about road noise and the fuel tank being directly exposed to the road through these holes.

IMG_0459.jpg

[mcamera]

Good news and bad news. Bad news, it looks like Boyd changed their internal baffles so my $180 Hydramat may not work. I'm going to contact Holley and see if they think it will still work with both ends sticking up over the baffles. Good news, the new baffles look like they should be much more effective. They create a square cup around the fuel pump to retain fuel locally and also have floor-to-ceiling baffles about a foot past those to stop fuel from sloshing side to side across the entire tank. All the baffles have their corners cut so fuel can move between compartments. Pics and diagram below.

IMG_0468.jpg IMG_0476.JPG Boyd Tank Diagram.jpg

I reversed the float on the sender as the guys before me have pointed out is necessary to work with the subaru equipment (must read 90ohms when the tank is empty). Just mark and remove the long skinny float rod and install it on the otherside of the pivot. Then rotate everything under the cover 180deg.

IMG_0478.jpg IMG_0479.jpg

Fuel pump assembly from Boyd using the Aeromotive 340 Stealth pump. I have an 07 donor that uses an in tank fuel filter which won't work any more. I'm switching to the 02-04 fuel filter which mounts outside of the fuel tank. I prefer OEM quality and barbed hose fittings vs an aftermarket fuel filter which uses 6AN fittings and cost 3x as much.

IMG_0473.jpg

[STiPWRD]

Has anybody tried anything else that they did or didn't like? I have 1mm thick foam I could easily use as a buffer.

I used 40 mil thick vinyl from home depot - the kind normally used as a moisture barrier. It's cheap and worked well.

Good news and bad news. Bad news, it looks like Boyd changed their internal baffles so my $180 Hydramat may not work. I'm going to contact Holley and see if they think it will still work with both ends sticking up over the baffles. Good news, the new baffles look like they should be much more effective. They create a square cup around the fuel pump to retain fuel locally and also have floor-to-ceiling baffles about a foot past those to stop fuel from sloshing side to side across the entire tank. All the baffles have their corners cut so fuel can move between compartments. Pics and diagram below.

I've also got the hydramat but the older Boyd tank and have never experienced a fuel starvation issue. As I understand, as long as any part of the hydramat is touching fuel, it will work as intended. If the edges are sticking up, that shouldn't be an issue.

[octobersknight]

Watching this thread with great interest! Amazing progress so far. I'm also working in a one-car garage when I have free time, it's taken me two years to get a full rolling chassis. That's mostly because of other life duties, not because of the 1-car. If I could change anything it would be to figure out where to store the hardtop. Working under/around that is a real bear most of the time. Good luck on future progress.

[roadrashrob]

Watching this thread with great interest! Amazing progress so far. I'm also working in a one-car garage when I have free time, it's taken me two years to get a full rolling chassis. That's mostly because of other life duties, not because of the 1-car. If I could change anything it would be to figure out where to store the hardtop. Working under/around that is a real bear most of the time. Good luck on future progress.

How high is the ceiling in your garage? Can you hang the hardtop? I did that to keep it out of the way, yet not let it "flatten" out by sitting on the ground. I'm fortunate in that I have a utility barn, so just wrapped it well to keep the birds and dirt off of it.
IMG_2021.jpg

[mcamera]

STiPWRD - Thanks for the feedback on the vinyl sheet. I haven't seen that yet, I'll check it out. I heard back from Holley and they said it would probably work but it's not ideal. The same response I'd expect if I asked if I can drive on 3 wheels. They recommended switching to a smaller hydramat with an incompatible 3/8" NPSF fitting.

octobersknight - Thanks! This is definitely a time consuming project. I've already put 250 hours into the car, but I'm not in a huge hurry. The 1 car garage hasn't been an issue yet. The car is small without the body and wheels. I did what roadrashrob did and hung the roof from my ceiling. There's a pic in post #33. I ran a rope through PVC pipes in a way that I can lower the front with 1 rope and the back with 1 rope. So I can do it by myself. I wish I covered the roof like Rob because it has collected a lot of dust and overspray from painting in a small garage.

[DSR-3]

I used a sheet of rubber from McMaster under the Boyd tank.
Leave the slots/holes open. If you have a fuel leak, you want the fuel the exit the car. I have real-world experience with this one...

[mcamera]

DSR-3
I used a sheet of rubber from McMaster under the Boyd tank.
Leave the slots/holes open. If you have a fuel leak, you want the fuel the exit the car. I have real-world experience with this one...

Very good point with fuel leaks. The slots are staying open.

[mcamera]

I'm using Noico 80mil sound deadening mat + Noico Red 315 mil insulation for the cabin of the car. It's been easy to work with and sticking really well. I used some behind the fuel tank before I forgot and tried to install the tank. I didn't realize the Boyd tank came with no fuel fittings and there was a learning curve when shopping. The firewall is only a few inches above the top of the fuel tank and the fuel hose is stiff, so I wanted 90deg fittings for easier routing. I attached a pic of my order from Summit Racing to work with the latest Boyd fuel tank + FFR fuel lines. I'll confirm once I know it all works.

For the pump outlet, I ordered a male -6 AN ORB fitting that adapts to a male -6 AN fitting. Then a 90deg fitting with a female -6 AN to a 5/16 barb for the fuel hose. The ORB fittings are also called a straight cut o-ring fitting or o-ring boss fitting, but they're different than a -6 AN fitting. And even though it has a "-6" for it's size, a lot of sites talk in standard units like 9/16-18". It was confusing.

For the fuel return, I got a male 3/8NPT that adapts to a male -6 AN fitting. Then the same 90deg fitting as above with a female -6 AN to 5/16 barb for the return hose. The return hose is 1/4" but it should stretch over the 5/16 barb.

I also had a hard time finding a 70mm fuel filter bracket for the 02-04 WRX fuel filter. I should have just ordered one from Subaru but I'm trying a different one I found on Summit. I've decided to use my leftover 1mm closed cell foam under and behind my fuel tank for some padding as you can see in my pic.

IMG_0491.jpg Fuel Fittings Order.jpg

Here's the Noico sound mat laid down under the seating area. I still have to add the insulation on top of this. I didn't do the foot wells yet because they oil can really badly and I want to fix that before I insulate. I've ordered a 1/8"x12"x36" sheet of aluminum that I'm going to cut in half and use as a heel plate for both foot wells. The 12"x18" panel will fit without any extra trimming and hopefully stop the panel from oil canning. I'll RTV and rivet it in place and check before I insulate. I think I can get away with only reinforcing the back half of each foot well since that's the only place you stand to get in the car. Cheaper and easier than buying bigger panels to cover the whole foot well. Or burning through your powdercoat by torching/quenching the floors. Or cutting the floors out altogether and replacing them with thicker metal. I almost bought sheets of plastic but wanted to make sure my sound deadening would stick well. And even though steel is stiffer and cheaper, aluminum is 1/3 the weight and doesn't need to be painted for corrosion resistance. We'll see if my plan works out or if my (supposed to be) easy fix snowballs into more metal purchases haha.

I plan to cover the front half of the foot well with sound mat, so there isn't a 1/8" lip where the aluminum stops. Then cover that aluminum and sound mat with another layer of sound mat. And finally insulation. That way I have a smooth floor and avoid any annoying lip that could catch my heel when driving.

IMG_0513.jpg

I finally got my IRS brackets!!! 6 months after ordering my car. I painted them a few days ago and started installing the rear suspension last night. I'm going to clear so many parts off of my bench that have been waiting for the brakes/suspension/axles to go on! I also got my caliper decals and really like how they turned out. I tried to think of something that was close to the same amount of letters as "Subaru" which was originally painted on there. For me that was the only way to get proportionally sized letters for these calipers. Not tiny text you can't read, and not 3 big letters that only fill half of the flat spot on the calipers.

IMG_0499_landscape.jpg IMG_0514.jpg

[mcamera]

The fuel fittings I ordered work great. They fit underneath the firewall and installed easily. My driver side firewall hits the fuel inlet on my Boyd tank before it can reach its final position though. I'll have to bend the horizontal section of the firewall or shim the bottom up about an inch to clear that.

IMG_0531.jpg

The fuel filter bracket I took a gamble on is perfect. The mounting holes are the exact same spacing as the old mounting holes for the AC compressor. I just need to drill out the mounting bracket holes a little bit, and buy 2 shorter bolts. This makes good use of dead space on the engine (where the AC compressor used to be) and I don't have to mess with mounting the filter to the frame rail and through my rear-rear firewall as the manual recommends. Here's the part number and a link if anybody wants a cheap and easy fuel filter setup using an 02-04 WRX filter. I had to switch over since my 07 filter was mounted in the fuel tank and now I need an externally mounted filter.

$19 - Canton Racing Filter Mounting Bracket - Part# 26-893 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-26-893)

IMG_0533.jpg

Here's how I tried to fix the oil canning of the floor pan. It's a huge improvement but I can still make it pop if I put all of my weight in the middle (160lbs). Of course I will never be standing straight up in the finished car, so I also tried getting into my car with the steering wheel in place, just to confirm that I don't need to make the floor stiffer. My feet never make it near the front of the plate and there's less weight on your feet when you're climbing/falling into the car. I think this is enough to fix the issue. I'll be adding sound deadening and insulation to the floor which should also help a little. More videos in the posts below.

IMG_0544.jpg IMG_0546.jpg

[mcamera]

[mcamera]