Here is the response I received from RaceTCS to the question of whether it matters which wire from the wheel sensor is used as ground:
"Hello,it does not. Vr sensor produces a sine wave, so whichever wire is ground (reference) the other will have a sine signal.VR sensor is basically a copper coil on a magnet, so there is no difference really internally."
Perfect, and I think I have come to the same conclusion this evening on my hubs too and figured I would share.
Also noting, I have the 30 spline SKF black anodized hubs. Maybe I did pick up on Crash's warning in the past when I started searching this and bought mine years ago. I normally document my larger purchases better than I did here.
I got to play with my new little bench o'scope this evening after testing my new config files on my Infinitybox. I hooked up both "ways" on my SKF hubs that are on my GTM and then on the bench for my old C5 donor hubs. I tried to get screen shots as I was spinning the wheel so here is a sample of what I found. The takeaway is there was not change in "polarity" and no change in signal generate from C5 hubs to the SKF hubs.
I would still caution everyone on VR type sensors that are used for engine speed and position. There is a difference in the toothed wheel what would be picked up and if polarity on those sensors is hooked up backwards, you will run into issues.
Generally two wire sensor do not have polarity, my hubs is no polarity sensitive. as you see see single is AC, now if you are tapping into it and is also connected somewhere else them one had to be care full as how the connected each ends and may also effect the other specially if they are full differential input.
I actually bolted up the rim and spun it by hand. I screwed up at first trying to spin it from the inside and smashed my finger in the caliper OUCH!! I stayed to the outside after that. Probably really pushed the low side limit of the little bench o-scope I picked up, but it worked so I’m very happy with it so far.
Similarly on the bench for my old C5 donor hubs. Just used a towel, grabbed a stud, and spun away.
Just for clarification, as far as I know, there are 4 different kinds of hubs.
1)Regular C5 hub...crappy and will fail under heavy use rather quickly. Smaller spline count. IIRC 29?
2)SKF Competition C5 Hub...sometimes referred to as the X Hub or the Extreme Hub. It can be identified with the black oxide coating on the flange. IIRC 29 spline count?
3)C5 ZR1 Hub...This appears to have a different type sensor. There are two distinctly different colored wires coming out of it. I was warned by the head of GM Motorsports that this sensor is "active" and requires a different hookup than the "standard" C5 hub sensors. I have not verified this personally. IIRC 32 spline count. I was told by an SKF engineer that the internals are the same as the "X Hub" but it uses the higher spline count.
4)The new generation ZL1 Hub...Larger splines, larger flange, 18mm studs, no sensor wires. IIRC 32 spline count.
I used to have a full set of the ZR1 hubs here in the shop but sent them up to where the FFR PDG GTM car is in Sacramento so I can't take pics of those, but I do have the other hubs here. I'll try and get some pictures. Note in pics 6, 7, and 8 the differences in how the hub is finished at the rear of the spline area. The Competition and ZL1 hubs use a swedged flange to retain the rear of the bearing while the standard C5 hub just has a flat surface there. Very different design.
I finally got everything installed and wired up. Started it up and ran normally (on the lift). I haven't had a chance to take it out and actually test it and see how well it works but the logging function seems to show everything is working properly. It is correctly detecting RPM, manually turning the wheels it is showing a signal, and there is no misfiring or warning lights, so...fingers crossed. Has anybody found a good 'generic' place to do testing? I'm having problems find in a good parking lot or other open space to allow me to purposely try to spin the wheels and the closest track for me is about 1 1/2 hours away. Any thoughts?
Good news. Seems that the logging function will be helpful for troubleshooting. Where did you mount your RaceTCS ecu? I mounted mine on top of the oem pcm but I'm not convinced that is the best spot.
Good news. Seems that the logging function will be helpful for troubleshooting. Where did you mount your RaceTCS ecu? I mounted mine on top of the oem pcm but I'm not convinced that is the best spot.
I mounted it in the center tunnel on the inside of the passenger tunnel. I used a car mount USB adapter on the passenger side tunnel so that I can connect to it from the passenger seat.
Great idea for the easy usb access!
If you're like me, you've accumulated about 8 sets of corvette wheels, some with pretty bald tires on them..I'll have no problem testing the traction control system!
I mounted it in the center tunnel on the inside of the passenger tunnel. I used a car mount USB adapter on the passenger side tunnel so that I can connect to it from the passenger seat.
Has anybody found a good 'generic' place to do testing? I'm having problems find in a good parking lot or other open space to allow me to purposely try to spin the wheels and the closest track for me is about 1 1/2 hours away. Any thoughts?
We have a local state park just down the road from us. When testing the old RaceLogic systems, I would just pull off in the grass, turn the "mode" or slip adjustment all the way up to 0% or "ice" setting, get moving in first gear and floor the throttle. No, that's not going to tell you how great the system works on a track or whatever....but it is going to tell you if it works and is functioning correctly or not. If you tear up the grass.....it's not working and you might want to hope there are no witnesses......but if the grass is un-harmed, you at least know that the system is operating.
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
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We have a local state park just down the road from us. When testing the old RaceLogic systems, I would just pull off in the grass, turn the "mode" or slip adjustment all the way up to 0% or "ice" setting, get moving in first gear and floor the throttle. No, that's not going to tell you how great the system works on a track or whatever....but it is going to tell you if it works and is functioning correctly or not. If you tear up the grass.....it's not working and you might want to hope there are no witnesses......but if the grass is un-harmed, you at least know that the system is operating.
You're getting a better ROI for your tax dollars than I am...
I've actually got two options for where I plan to test my traction control, but first need to tune my computer. If I turn left out of my neighborhood, I've got a stretch of road about a couple miles long with golf courses on either side. I figured I'd get some time on that road before someone complains and the cops show up, so I'll have to sneaky and not get greedy with the number of runs I make at any one time. My other option is driving through my town a bit and out into the farm area. The benefit here is miles on perfectly straight road with pull offs at intersections to reference my computer. The downside is I need to get out of town without a cop catching me
Short of paying for track time and trailering my go cart there. This is what I want to do until I get at least the first ticket LOL.
When you are tuning your computer and doing runs on the asphalt, either make sure your laptop is closed, or prop it open as it WILL bite your fingers by slamming closed during launches!
If your ECU has logging I would use that. Otherwise you need to have someone driving and someone watching the data on the laptop during runs.
When you are tuning your computer and doing runs on the asphalt, either make sure your laptop is closed, or prop it open as it WILL bite your fingers by slamming closed during launches!
If your ECU has logging I would use that. Otherwise you need to have someone driving and someone watching the data on the laptop during runs.
Sounds like we have a little experience here
It’s probably going to be a combination of logging, passenger with the laptop, and me making a prop to hold the computer so I can see it while left foot brake driving so that I can force the computer and car to operate in all the cells I’ll need to populate for the tuning.
Installed the Race TCS. As it turns out I had some difficulty getting the engine to run with the Race TCS connected. It acted like VATS was connected: it would fire and stop. When I disconnected the Race TCS the engine ran fine. After trouble shooting with Race TCS it turns out that the 12v power to the Race TCS requires a power source that is not interrupted when the engine is cranked (which many of the Painless accessory circuits are). After I located a fused circuit that is not interrupted when cranking the engine ran fine and problem solved. Thought I would pass this on for anyone else installing Race TCS.
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Originally Posted by dlud
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, wanted to so this for some testing.
