It took a little longer than expected but I got the rear splash guards installed. I created a bracket mounted to the rear shock tower brace and then also had to extend the fronts. I unbent the 90 deg bend and added a bracket. I have about 2” between the tire and the top of the guard. Hopefully I won’t bottom or rub. Guess I will find out when I add the rear wing and do a shakedown.
I am still working through the wiring to figure out my tail light issue. The parking light switch on the steering column doesn’t work so something is not right. I am going to glue in the headlight lenses and then pick up some Black Friday deals too
Here’s a quick procedure to check to see where you are losing power to the tail lights.
1. Check Fuse #7 on the black fuse box for continuity and one side of the socket for 12v.
2. Unplug B69 under the steering wheel (see photo) and check for power on the White Red wire.
Sigh, photo won't upload, although an irrelevant one did. It's the middle 4 pin connector under the steering wheel.OK, here it is. under steering connectors.jpg
3. Reconnect B69 and turn the parking switch to the ON position.
4. Check Fuse #5 on the tan fuse box for continuity and one side of the socket for 12v.
5. Check the Red Yellow wire at the tail light for power and the Black wire for continuity to ground.
The problem will be between the last place you found 12v power and the first place you didn’t. Refer to your post #275 for the schematic pages relevant to these test points.
Hoping it’s just a blown fuse or loose connector B69,
RPG
Last edited by RPGs818SNA; 11-24-2023 at 09:07 AM.
Reason: Trying to add photo. Added photo.
It took a little longer than expected but I got the rear splash guards installed. I created a bracket mounted to the rear shock tower brace and then also had to extend the fronts. I unbent the 90 deg bend and added a bracket. I have about 2” between the tire and the top of the guard. Hopefully I won’t bottom or rub. Guess I will find out when I add the rear wing and do a shakedown.
I am still working through the wiring to figure out my tail light issue. The parking light switch on the steering column doesn’t work so something is not right. I am going to glue in the headlight lenses and then pick up some Black Friday deals too
I'd suggest leaving your top mounting bolts out until you're sure there is no rubbing on top. If you have the bolts in when it rubs, something will break or bend. I had to increase the height on mine by about 1.5".
You're just as likely to get rubbing on the sides of the splash guards. The camber will increase as the suspension compresses. I needed 10mm of wheel spacer to prevent this and to clear the trailing arm. Which turned into needing longer lugs.
Yea I don’t know how much the rear suspension will compress under load. I have the 500 lb springs in the rear, 10mm wheel spacers, and extended lugs already. It was a tight fit already getting the splash guards that high but maybe there is still some room to raise it if needed.
Headlight lenses glued in and it sure does pull together the front fascia. I painted the edges of the lenses black a couple months ago and kind of forgot about them. The fitment of them in each fender is not great and there are some large gaps around the edges. This kind of hung me up since I plan to wrap the car so I was unsure about what to do about the gaps. I thought about painting all of the edges black but instead I left them and will use body filler to make a nice transition. I had to fill a couple pin holes in the gel coat as I prepped the surfaces. I used some magnets on both sides and hung a hunk of steel on the back sides to try and add some weight while the sealant cured. Since this build is going to be a fair weather car and a track car I was not too concerned about making a water tight seal and used a clear silicone caulk sealant. I noticed my black lines are not perfect on the lenses and then there is some sealant that bled past the black paint. It is minimal so not perfect but I think still looks good.
Next picture will be with the headlights install as well. I already have studs epoxied in to secure them. My second seat should be arriving soon and then I got my Racequip harnesses to install next. And I still need to figure out my tail lighting issue but installing new stuff is more fun than troubleshooting sometimes.
Well, it's complicated. Since you can read the schematics, I'll just give you a roadmap. Here goes:
Parking switch above steering wheel works with ignition turned off or on. Check this first.
PSUP02 Battery + to A PSUP03
PSUP03 A to Fuse 7 to L PSUP04
PSUP04 L to FB12 to ILMES01
ILMES01 FB12 to PK SW ON to PK SW COM to FB3 Parking switch ON
PSUP04 FB3 to Fuse 5 to FB6 and FB7
ILMES03 FB6 to front parking lights to ground
ILMES03 FB7 to rear parking lights to ground
RPG
RPG,
I tried ohming out this circuit because nothing turns on with the parking switch above the steering wheel. Even with on and off I get a beep from FB3 to Fuse 5 or essentially FB3 to FB 6 or 7. If the switch or wires to the switch are function when the parking switch is off I shouldn’t get a beep correct?
Continuity from FB3 to Fuse 5 and on to FB6 or 7 is correct if Fuse 5 is good. Were you able to find out where the 12 volts stops using the post 282 procedure? That will narrow down where to look for the problem.
Your headlight lenses look great! I’m right behind you in getting mine in. Thanks for the inspiring photos.
I was only looking for continuity so I should go back now and trace the circuit looking at voltages. It gets a little tricky for one person to hold the multimeter ends for say FB3 to Fuse 5 . Had to get creative with some wire and tap haha. I will post some pics with the headlights installed now too!
A while back I followed a similar approach as Helixx used to secure the headlights to the fenders. I bonded sink fasteners to the inside of the fenders and use 3/8" foam weather stripping around the edges. The only real issue I found was the threads are almost not long enough, but I was able to secure the wing nuts. Maybe a thinner foam would help. The front looks much more complete now!
I removed the dash and the front center console to begin tracing the parking light circuit. I want to get this figured out so I can mount my passenger seat and racing harnesses. This will then allow me to install the windshield too. I am concerned once the windshield is installed getting to things under the dash will be challenging.
I have some weird things going on with the parking lights and turn/hazard signal circuits. I tore open the dash and the center console to be able to trace wires and get to the fuse box easily.
I began checking for voltages on the Parking Lights per RPG's steps because the switch on the steering wheel does not work.
Parking switch above steering wheel works with ignition turned off or on. Check this first.
PSUP02 Battery + to A PSUP03
PSUP03 A to Fuse 7 to L PSUP04
PSUP04 L to FB12 to ILMES01
ILMES01 FB12 to PK SW ON to PK SW COM to FB3 Parking switch ON
PSUP04 FB3 to Fuse 5 to FB6 and FB7
ILMES03 FB6 to front parking lights to ground
ILMES03 FB7 to rear parking lights to ground
Fuses 7 and FB12 do not have any voltage on them but FB3 to FB6/FB7 do have 12V which is weird. And it does not matter whether the parking switch is on or off. This whole circuit ohms out so I am not sure why there is no voltage going in from the battery to Fuse 7. I will have to try and find the wire color to Fuse 7 to trace to the battery or make sure the FB is getting power.
Turn/Signal Hazard Circuit:
So I have to be honest here I accidently wired the left rear tail light wires to the right tail light and vice versa. I noticed most of the wire colors are the same and spliced on both except for the turn signals. So I swapped only the BG (left) and LgB (right) wires to swap the turn signals. However, now the right front/rear turn signal works fine but the left is a different story. The front left turn signal works fine but the left rear flashes orange with the right white (reverse) light. When putting it in reverse the reverse lights are white and both come on so something strange is happening. I pulled the bulbs out of both turn/reverse sockets and noticed the pins were touching. I thought maybe this was the culprit. I tried to separate them with a small piece of plastic, reconnected them, but the left orange turn signal and the right white reverse still comes on when trying to check the left turn signal. I think I read on the forum these sockets were a challenge to begin with. Next is the hazard switch which is connected but when you turn the switch on nothing happens and toggling on the left or right turn signals does nothing either. Maybe nothing is supposed to happen trying to turn on the left or right turn signals when the hazard switch is pressed I am not sure.
Something strange is happening due to wire harness dieting. I know I went crazy with trying to remove all of the dash light for the subsystems I removed so maybe I am paying the price for that. Does not seem like a quick fix so I will have to pick one circuit and start from the beginning to see what the issue is so I can fix it and move on.
Let’s fix the tail lights first. Here’s my list with the wire colors for a 2007 harness. There are 2 Fuse 7’s. Check the one in the black fuse box. There are also 2 Fuse 5’s. Check the one in the tan fuse box. From there, it’s RY wire all the way to the tail lights.
Parking switch above steering wheel works with ignition turned off or on. Check this first.
PSUP02 Battery + to A PSUP03
PSUP03 A to Fuse 7 (in black main fuse box, 20A) (WR) to L PSUP04
PSUP04 L to FB12 (WR) to ILMES01
ILMES01 FB12 (WR) to PK SW ON to PK SW COM (Or) to FB3 Parking switch ON
PSUP04 FB3 (Or) to Fuse 5 (in tan fuse box, 10A) to FB6 (RY) and FB7 (RY)
ILMES03 FB6 (RY) to front parking lights to ground
ILMES03 FB7 (RY) to rear parking lights to ground
Next, those turn signal sockets are pretty poor quality. I did my best to insulate the 3 contacts from each other with red fingernail polish and a small piece of plastic. That’s working so far.
Sounds like yours are shorting between the turn signal power wire (BG/LgB) and the reverse signal power wire (BrY). If either turn signal shorts to reverse, both reverse lights will light up since they are connected together. If you can’t get them to behave, I think I have a VW part number for a better version of the sockets.
Lastly, when the hazard switch is OFF, the turn signals are powered by the ignition relay, which seems to be working for you. When the hazard switch is ON, the turn signals are powered by MB6 (W) Fuse 6 (black fuse box) which runs to the hazard switch pin 8 (W). From there it exits Pin 7 (BrR) and runs to the blinker pin 1 (Turn Signal and Hazard Module). Track that path to get power to the blinker when the hazard switch is on.
Hope this helps get your lights working.
RPG
Last edited by RPGs818SNA; 12-13-2023 at 10:01 PM.
Reason: Add photo
Something fishy is going on. I don’t get voltage from the battery + to the black main fuse box. I made the red 8 Awg cable and connected it from the battery to the fuse box. It’s ohms out from the battery to the fuse box post and have 0.1 ohms so I doesn’t seem like a cable issue. Just no voltage with the key off or on. And no voltage from the battery to fuse 7 in the black fuse box but I think this is tied to not having voltage on that red 8 awg wire from the battery. I believe all of the grounds are connected so not sure what the issue is.
I snapped off one of the mounts to the gauge cluster of course when taking the dash off last week. So hopefully some JB Weld will hold the mount so I can fasten it to the dash again.
Wow, that IS fishy, but should be easy to resolve. Try measuring the voltage from battery negative to the frame, expecting near zero volts. Then battery negative to battery positive, expecting 12 volts. Then battery negative to the battery end of your red wire going to the black fuse box, expecting 12 v. Then battery negative to the fuse box end of the red wire, expecting 12 volts. Finally, measure battery negative to both sides of Fuse 3 in the black fuse box, expecting 12v. The first unexpected measurement should point to the problem. The ignition switch position shouldn't matter.
Wow, that IS fishy, but should be easy to resolve. Try measuring the voltage from battery negative to the frame, expecting near zero volts. Then battery negative to battery positive, expecting 12 volts. Then battery negative to the battery end of your red wire going to the black fuse box, expecting 12 v. Then battery negative to the fuse box end of the red wire, expecting 12 volts. Finally, measure battery negative to both sides of Fuse 3 in the black fuse box, expecting 12v. The first unexpected measurement should point to the problem. The ignition switch position shouldn't matter.
I forgot to add in the first post that I was measuring from battery +. Battery - to frame is 0V as expected. Battery - to all of other points you mention measures 12V. From your previous steps Battery - to fuse 7 in black fuse box is 12V. Battery - to FB12 is 0V. Battery - to FB3 is 12V.
Battery + to the red cable end in the black fuse box is 0V and battery + to fuse 7 is 0V.
I figured it out! I was reading the wiring diagram wrong because FB-X doesn’t relate to a fuse in the F/B tan fuse box rather the circuit bus. Turns out F/B tan fuse box #5 was burned out. Swapped it out and the tail lights come on now with the parking switch. I traced the front circuit to something with the headlight wiring. I will check that next but getting closer!
I got my hazard lights working. I found another blown fuse so thankfully it was an easy fix! I isolated the front parking light issues to the headlight itself. I wired the parking light to the yellow wires of the small circular lights. I need to pull the bumper to check the splice or maybe this was not a good idea. I have the white wire of these lights tied to the headlights.
I spent the day fixing my shifting linkage. I noticed the flanges hanging off of the bracket that attaches to the shifting rod was interfering with the bumper. I cut off the flanges and welded on a flange to adapt to the fire/aft linkage. I have to cut down the threads at the end of the linkage to get the shifter back to center. It does make it easier to get into 5th/6th and reverse now.
Congratulations on getting the hazard lights going, Brandon. Those FFR supplied circular front parking lights were a puzzle. The internals look like this.
They don’t really light up below 13 volts, that is, with the engine running, so they are not great as hazard lights. The white wire provides barely perceptible brighter light than the yellow wire due to that 100 ohm resistor.
The headlights are powered whenever the ignition switch is on, and are controlled by grounding their low side. Connecting the white wire of the LED to the headlight will keep the LEDs on whenever the ignition switch is on. That will make them work as running lights.
Connecting the yellow wire to the parking wire will make them work with the hazard switch as well. Since the hazard lights are often used with the engine off and only battery power, I’d probably connect the white wire to the parking wire and the yellow to the headlight wire to get the most light from just the battery, but I doubt you will be able to notice the difference.
Here’s hoping you’re near the end of your lighting issues.
RPG
Before my headlight wiring attempt I found an old post you had on Octoberknight’s page discussing these LEDs. I might have swapped the white and yellow wires on accident so I will double check my wiring. My battery voltage is only at 12v right now so I will need to charge it or run the car.
Finally it looks like a race car with 2 seats and harness bars! I thought I was cleaver when I installed the driver's seat to weld in bars for the passenger seat. Well turns out I was off by about 0.5" so I had to cut them out and weld in new ones to get the spacing correct. With both seats finally installed I was also able to install the sheetmetal panel under the seats to seal off the cockpit. I think this was the last major piece for the cockpit hopefully with just some cosmetic pieces left.
While I had the panels off I cut out sections right behind the front wheels in the side pods similar to what Hobby did to get some extra air flow to the engine bay. I have a couple more openings to cut out and then I will install black mesh.
Back on the front parking lights I noticed I have the white and yellow wires switched so I will have to correct this to align with what RPG recommended. Hopefully this resolves the issue! Then I think I am good to get the windshield installed, look at registration, and begin the rear wing structure build.
It feels like I am working through the final punch list before I can attempt to get this thing registered. I ordered some SPA F1 side mirrors and they are a lot smaller than what it looked like in the picture. I went with convex lenses to try out the increased FOV. I will have to see what it is like driving the car. I attempted to wrapped them in carbon vinyl to achieve the poor man's APR mirrors but wrapping definitely takes more skills than I have acquired yet. It took 3 throw away attempts and I still have many wrinkles around the edges. It looks okay from afar at least ha so I will have to redo them down the road. I ordered a cheap Hella horn off eBay and mounted them on the sides of the radiator brackets. A quick check ensured the copper wiper connector I installed on the NRG steering wheel actually works. And then I also got to wrap the downpipe and muffler. I was not able to cover the flat surface of the muffler so hopefully that won't expose too much added heat.
I verified starting the engine all of the lights work including the parking lights. I have the small LED accent lights (yellow wire) wired to the parking lights which I believe goes to the internal resistor. So either my battery needs more of a charge or I need to switch to the white wire to see if I can get the front parking lights to work with the engine off.
Next up is to install the aluminum mesh I order for the openings on the rear bumper and read deck lid. Get the windshield installed (with rear view mirror), install the wiper, string alignment, and set the brake bias. Maybe the front lip too. A bolt and nut check and then I think it would be ready to register which is crazy to think.
Sounds like my last bit before registration. I don't know about your state, but the bureaucracy moved slowly. I had to keep calling and find the one person who does "specially constructed" vehicles for the whole state and ask what else was needed; they never called me. They were more familiar with Cobra kits...
When the Police Investigator came out to inspect it, it was easy.
Hope it goes smoothly...
BTW, my front running lights aren't on with just battery, only when engine is running.
That seems to be the trend. Everyone knows the cobra kits and then the 818 is just the red headed step child haha. I will stay vigilan. Still surreal I finally made it this far.
That seems to be the trend. Everyone knows the cobra kits and then the 818 is just the red headed step child haha. I will stay vigilan. Still surreal I finally made it this far.
A guy in the next lane actually recognized my car yesterday. He yelled "Is that an 818?". He went on to say that he has a Daytona.
California registration was a 5 step process and a hassle and took some time, but everybody seemed to know the process. Good luck with it.
First time the car has had all of the panels on and with a windshield. Not too shabby for the red gel coat if you don’t look too close. I had a local guy come out to install the windshield. We both noticed the windshield manufacturing quality was not the best and there is a hairline crack at the bottom of the driver side. The guy was still able to install the windshield and thankfully the crack hasn’t turned up the glass. I had to take the car out for a spin since it had been a couple months since the last time I took it out. I put in about 2-3 miles around the neighborhood. The car needs a serious alignment with lots of front negative camber. Lots of rub on the front 235s at 4.5” off the ground. In boost this car is quick! However, I noticed it cut power on me which made me think I hit the limited but no and then there was a CEL boo. The scanner showed a P0021 cam position timing and a P0014 manufacturers control. I had oil pressure while driving the car but I noticed idling back in the garage my oil pressure gauge read 0 psi. No bueno.
I am going to swap my pressure sensors since it’s mounted in the sandwich plate to see if the heat or vibration got to it. The road is a little bumpy and it’s pretty close to the wrapped header. And then the bigger pain is going to be pulling the AVCS banjos to check and remove the filters. I remember looking at the one by the turbo not knowing there were 2 more to check.
I am almost done with installed the windshield wiper as well. I got it mounted and wired up just need to set and adjust the wiper. Of course I used the R front surround hood support. So I will have to drill out those rivets and install the one that came with the wiper kit.
I "finished" my car in sept of last year but I've been doing DIY engine tuning pretty much since then. I think a lot of people bring them to a dyno tuner and get it done in an afternoon, but since there's so much different in this car than what the factory ECU is expecting, a LOT of the tables need changing, and a lot of codes need to be deleted. Getting WOT is not too bad but the daily driving/partial throttle stuff is a whole different animal.
Nice congrats! There is always something to work on I am sure. I worked with my local tuner last summer to have the car E-tuned for flex fuel. The idle is always the hardest part to get right! You are right though most of these builds are pretty custom and need some extra sorting. I am going to inspect my AVCS oil lines and the small filters to make sure there is nothing strange and swap out the oil pressure sensor to see if I vibrated it to death. I have the sensor hard mounted to the sandwich plate on the oil filter. I am told these sensors can be sensitive to vibration. Hoping this solves this issue!
Nice congrats! There is always something to work on I am sure. I worked with my local tuner last summer to have the car E-tuned for flex fuel. The idle is always the hardest part to get right! You are right though most of these builds are pretty custom and need some extra sorting. I am going to inspect my AVCS oil lines and the small filters to make sure there is nothing strange and swap out the oil pressure sensor to see if I vibrated it to death. I have the sensor hard mounted to the sandwich plate on the oil filter. I am told these sensors can be sensitive to vibration. Hoping this solves this issue!
I put a timer/relay from Amazon on the oil pressure idiot light so the light will blink for 15 seconds even if the pressure drops for only a split second, then recovers. For example, in a high G turn when I'm not looking at the dash. And I rewired it to a big bright light on the dash in in my prefrail vision next to the oil temp and water temp warning lights. As a note, with a Killer B pan and pickup and Arctangent oil control plate, other than at start up, only once the warning light came on with the engine running as noted below. I've never had the low oil pressure trigger on track and I track my car on some 10 second, 1.3g turns (Thunderhill East turn 2).
I had the oil pressure sensor wire insulation melt and the wire grounded which triggered the warning light. I found a high temperature wire sleeve to protect the wire. I also have a gauge, so when the warning light started flashing, it was reassuring to see pressure on the gauge. I got a mechanical oil pressure testing gauge just to make sure. The dash gauge and test gauge were the same, but I made a huge mess. I'll wrap a rag around the pressure relief valve on the test gauge next time.
I pulled out the scanner and checked the CELs and cam position sensor P0021 is gone. I started it and the oil pressure sensor read normal cold pressures so that’s good. I will need to take it for another drive and this time log it to see if the CEL comes back. I am also going to do a string alignment this weekend because I need a lot of camber up front to clear the 235s. I may need to buzz down the inside lip to add some clearance. I think I am maxed out on the height using the R suspension point at 4.5” frame off the ground. Another 0.25-0.5” would help for street ability though.
Is this how it’s supposed to be for the license plate lights and frame? I want it to be removable for track time so I will have to drill holes in the bumper and make disconnects for the wiring.
I pulled out the scanner and checked the CELs and cam position sensor P0021 is gone. I started it and the oil pressure sensor read normal cold pressures so that’s good. I will need to take it for another drive and this time log it to see if the CEL comes back. I am also going to do a string alignment this weekend because I need a lot of camber up front to clear the 235s. I may need to buzz down the inside lip to add some clearance. I think I am maxed out on the height using the R suspension point at 4.5” frame off the ground. Another 0.25-0.5” would help for street ability though.
Is this how it’s supposed to be for the license plate lights and frame? I want it to be removable for track time so I will have to drill holes in the bumper and make disconnects for the wiring.
You have it right if you want to integrate the lights into the license plate frame as I did.
If you want to easily remove the plate, make sure the lights and the plate are completely separate. I have to cut the wires to completely remove the plate. I include extra wire length to allow for multiple cuts if needed. I do have a wire connector, but it's for when I completely remove the rear body panel.
I do remove my front license plate at the track for radiator air flow reasons. To make it easy, it's held on with a single bolt.
The holes at the ends are for the plate I think. I got little plastic inserts at the parts store. Here's my setup plate mount.jpg
BTW, I just corner balanced my car. It moves the ride height around a bit, so you might want to do that before finalizing the height.
Ah okay I was looking a lot some similar license plate inserts on Amazon last night. Just odd the plate doesn’t come with them and typical nothing in the manual regarding this step. And the way you have the lights makes sense. I was thinking something similar just wanted to confirm before I add more holes
I am working on my alignment and noticed something odd. On the front UCAs are the longer links supposed to be at the front of both? Or is it supposed to be switched like I have it? It doesn’t seem like I could install the left on the right or vice versa nor upside down because of the grease fittings. Did I get two of the same side on accident?
I wonder if I can live with it and just adjust it…does explain why the left has 4.8* caster and the right has 0.3* caster.
Per the manual: The welded side of the balljoint mount goes forward with the shorter adjusting arm toward the rear. Looks like one of yours is backwards. I had to take one of mine apart and reassemble to get the welded side forward and the grease nipples upward.
Or I just can’t read and follow directions…thanks Robert! I will pull it apart and flip the welded end around. I remember one of the upper ball joints being hard to screw in so hopefully this one comes out
It's pretty easy to miss manual assembly details when the parts arrive mis-assembled without warning. I'm installing door handles now and the manual is totally wrong for my door frames and liners. I'm making and correcting my unguided mistakes continuously. It's part of my learning process. I hope your correction process goes smoothly.
I will have to redo my alignment a bit when I correct the front right UCA, however, right now I am at -2* camber in the front and -2.5* in the rear. I seem to be maxed out in the front and I have read some trim the UCA threaded rod and or link. Do you need to trim both or just the threaded rod? I will probably find out when I disassemble the UCA but it seems like just trimming the threaded rod would work assuming that is what is the limiting factor.
I will have to redo my alignment a bit when I correct the front right UCA, however, right now I am at -2* camber in the front and -2.5* in the rear. I seem to be maxed out in the front and I have read some trim the UCA threaded rod and or link. Do you need to trim both or just the threaded rod? I will probably find out when I disassemble the UCA but it seems like just trimming the threaded rod would work assuming that is what is the limiting factor.
Brandon, on our car we started with -2.5 deg of camber. we found during heavy straight line braking the nose would dive and actually increase the negative camber. At the point only the inside edges of the tires were touching the ground. Not enough contact area to stop the car. Our final setting ended up being -0.5 deg after we stiffen the rear springs to prevent body roll. We did 20+ autocrosses and a couple of track days before we were happy with our suspension setup. Bob
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Originally Posted by blomb11
. Had to get creative with some wire and tap haha. I will post some pics with the headlights installed now too!
I'm installing door handles now and the manual is totally wrong for my door frames and liners. I'm making and correcting my unguided mistakes continuously. It's part of my learning process. I hope your correction process goes smoothly.
