What did you do on your GTM today?

[spytech]

N,
Is it too late in the season for a test run to see how it feels now?

V-

Unfortunately. The roads don't have snow, but tons of salt and don't want to get that crap on my car. Spring cant come soon enough now!

[kabacj]

Since I need to finish up welding on the frame, one of the things I did today was mount the AC accumulator. I needed to make sure none of my modifications interfered with the AC line routing as well as set the accumulator in place. I like when you mount something that I looks like it belongs there. I quickly fabricated a little bracket from some scrap 1 inch square tube. Its way stronger then it needs to be, but it holds the accumulator very nicely. And it was an excuse to fabricate something.





This accumulator is just for mock up purposes. Ill put in the new one when I put the front together for the last time.


john

[Kempo]

Very nice work John. That weld is very clean too. I wish I could weld like that.

[The Stig]

I've been completely consumed by work (including weekends) since the middle of November. Since I got the GTM back into the Garage, I haven't had a chance to get started back on the tasks to finish it up. I did go out this weekend and "Start it up". The battery had drained down, so I had put the charger on it for an hour and then kick it over. After a few tries, it came back to life!

This brought the neighbors out, and over to my house for a look. It was pretty cool to see the big grins as they walked up the driveway and saw the GTM sitting there. I talked to them for 20 - 30 minutes explaining what it was and letting them look around it. Then I took it out for another drive around the block.

It's really cool to see the "double-takes" when people get their first glimpse of it coming around the corners. Lots of smiles, and thumbs up.

Life is good.

[LCD Gauges]

Bought a 5 inch tach, but it's not close enough to the ProComp series. Need to return it and wait for the back-ordered matching tach.

5757b8m_20.jpeg

[mendo]

I purchased the doner parts. should have them mid Jan. only thing missing at this point is the transmission. you all remember this stage of the build?

[LCD Gauges]

Not only do I remember that stage...I am AT that stage. I'll be taking notes to find out all that is needed, options, tips, etc.

[VD2021]

Installed rear anti-sway bar.

[LCD Gauges]

Found a place to store my car for two and a half months.

Getting specs on the motor, and chasing down a source for the transaxle.

Going to pick up some materials to continue prepping the hood (tomorrow and Wednesday).

It will be one of the last things I do before it goes away.

P.S. The pic looks good Big V.

[sk7500]

I know it's progress, but pulling the body for paint sure feels like a step back in time. It was Christmas last year when we put the body on and it was at least all one color. We still have some glass reinforcement to to on the inside and lots of block sanding to do but the body mods are DONE!!
Hopefully the next time I post there will be some red in the pictures.

[LCD Gauges]

Wow, nice shop space. May I have it?

I'm liking the fixed hood mod more and more, I'm just too chicken to attempt it.

[kabacj]

My Ohlins shocks were delivered last week and it was time to mount them. I could have taken the easy way out and mounted them using the FFR supplied 1/2 inch bolt. However as usual I could not take the easy way out and decided that I would upgrade the solution and hopefully get something that both looks cool and works a bit better. I was able to get larger custom end eyes for the shocks that were designed to be used in euro spec cars. These have larger metric ID bearings of course. The bearings will support larger loads as well as allow for a greater off set angle.

Because I was making each spacer or bushing from 303 stainless I could control the tolerances and managed to get the clearance down to .005 mm between the shock eye and the bushings. I then made up bushings to reduce the 1/2 inch FFR shock mount to 3/8ths and pressed in those spacers. I upgraded to extreme strength 450 stainless steel 12 point bolts . Mostly because I thought they looked cool, would be plenty strong, and of course since they are ARP are incredibly well made.

Finally I made up new collars that limit the side to side movement of my front anti roll bar. I just could not bring my self to mount cheap Chinese made galvanized steel collars on my pride an joy. Of course billet aluminum collars both look nice and are lighter weight. As they say light makes right.

Shown below is the shock upper mount with a set of bushings and reducers. I actually put a chamfer on the inside shoulder of the bushings to allow for full articulation of the shock eye. (not shown on the example bushing)


Very proud of these tolerances on my 1945 logan lathe. This baby was well cared for and still can put out quality parts, however soon as the GTM is done ill pony up for a quality CNC mill. Something about programming a tool path and spitting out parts is rather attractive after spending a day making 16 of the 32 parts I need.


Some billet locating collars for the ARB. Totally unnecessary but they make me happy.


John

[kabacj]

This weekend I mounted my adjustable seat brackets. I purchased the jegs units for 29 bucks then decided that I wanted to install them with the double locker. The annoying thing is they are not mirror image of each other . One locking mechanism lifts toward the front and one toward the back on the other when the seat mounting studs are facing inward.




After a little bit of noodling i decided to reverse one of the locking mechanisms. I had to move the pivot and reverse the bends in the mechanism itself. I did my best to channel a black smith and this is how it came out.



Next I wanted to cut off all the stuff on the latch that I would not use as it would hit the leather on the seat when I pulled the latch fully up. Sure its not a big deal but I was in it this deep why stop now



I matched both sides and moved the spring attachment points to slightly decrease the pressure required to unlatch the locks.

I mounted the seats in the car and was very happy with the adjust ability and the ease of the action of the locks. The final step is to mount a u shaped actuator that will located just under the front lip of the seat. This way with one hand I can unlock both tracks while holding the steering wheel to pull myself forward or push myself back.

A minor convenience for sure, but it was a fun way to spend the day.

John

[Presto51]

Damn John your machine work is “wicked” cool. Nothing like “parts porn” to make the day go by

Thanks for sharing

Ron

[mendo]

I purchased the doner parts. should have them mid Jan. only thing missing at this point is the transmission. you all remember this stage of the build?

Got a big box full of doner parts

Got a motor in another box.

will be unpacking and inventorying this weekend.

here we go.

[rev2xs]

Mounted the doors in for the last time today. Installed my door seals in today. Seems like the door might be perfectly sealed too. Connected the headlights today and encounted a new problem while i was at it. My park lights both front and rear stopped working No idea whats caused it as the fuse is fine. So, i'll save myself a post in this thread and let you all guess what i will be doing tomorrow

[VD2021]

Picked up some and ordered the remainder of the parts in preparation of the magnasteer power steering install.

[lrt1941]

Put the napa pilot bearing in the crank need for the mendeola. Missed the socket that I was using and hit my finger with the hammer. ******* I think I!m number 15 on the waiting list.
Leonard

[mikespms]

006.JPG005.JPG Made brackets to mount the seat belts with out having to modify the seat belt mechanism and switching sides also adapted corvette cover .

[kabacj]

As many have noted the way you mount the corvette column with two bolts in line allows the wheel to flex a bit when you pull down or push up on it. Not a major deal, but I wanted it to be firmer. First I cleaned up the column and cut a piece of 2x2 square stock so it fit exactly parallel with the section perpendicular to the column that currently has the two mounting bolts.



I welded the square piece on and painted it up.



Then installed it in the car. I had planned on welding in another slot on the frame to bolt the column to the frame but it was very firm without it. I might still go ahead and bolt it, but as long as the new support is parallel with the factory perch it really makes the wheel solid.



John

[Kempo]

Great idea John. I'm not happy with the movement on the column. I will be removing mine for this same fix. Thanks for sharing.

[fastthings]

Great idea John. I'm not happy with the movement on the column. I will be removing mine for this same fix. Thanks for sharing.

Yes, Thank you, for sharing. I like, and will use.

Gene

[mikespms]

gtm dash.JPG001.JPG I mounted the HUD and IP and modified the dash pad. But I had to modify the steering colunm mount to fit IP in dash.

[kabacj]

Finally I am nearly complete with my seat track install.

In order to have the seat perfectly centered relative to the wheel I needed to move the right hand side seat mounts inboard 1 inch to compensate for the width of the seat tracks. This allows you to move the seat right up to the tunnel in the same way as its designed by factory five without using seat tracks.

First I made and installed steel mounts and attached them to the frame.



Note when the seat track is fully back it goes into the stock aluminum panel so I needed to make a cut out and filler piece. I proceeded to bend up a few of these.



I got those all mounted up and painted the bare steel.



Got the stock panels trimmed and drilled



Then proceeded to test the seat travel. First fully forward.



Then fully back.



By tipping the seat I can move the seat back over 8 inches. Ill test with some of my taller friends to see how they fit. I think tipping the seat really helps in the head room department. I find it more comfortable as well. I can raise the seat and tip it back so I have plenty of room for a helmet and good ergonomics with the pedals, shifter and wheel.


To wrap up the shifter install I welded in the frame and painted it all up when it was done.




John

[LCD Gauges]

Made arrangements to pickup my PCM and harness from the engine builder. I've also been sketching out some mods that I'd like to try (IE: reverse lights relocation, intake air box, push button start
electronic circuit build).

I'll post up some pics of the sketches and photos of the 'goods' after grabbing them tomorrow.

[mmaragos]

John (kabacj) - that is one heck of a job on the seat slider mounting. Solid and it looks great!

[kabacj]

Thanks Mmargos. It's funny when I look at the post I say. That should take a few hours. But that's the magic of the Internet. Sure it was a few hours of fab time but lots of head scratching and experimenting in between.

I like to see what others are doing so hopefully my posts are entertaining.

John

[VD2021]

Finally I am nearly complete with my seat track install.

In order to have the seat perfectly centered relative to the wheel I needed to move the right hand side seat mounts inboard 1 inch to compensate for the width of the seat tracks. This allows you to move the seat right up to the tunnel in the same way as its designed by factory five without using seat tracks.

First I made and installed steel mounts and attached them to the frame.


Note when the seat track is fully back it goes into the stock aluminum panel so I needed to make a cut out and filler piece. I proceeded to bend up a few of these.


I got those all mounted up and painted the bare steel.


Got the stock panels trimmed and drilled



Then proceeded to test the seat travel. First fully forward.


Then fully back.


By tipping the seat I can move the seat back over 8 inches. Ill test with some of my taller friends to see how they fit. I think tipping the seat really helps in the head room department. I find it more comfortable as well. I can raise the seat and tip it back so I have plenty of room for a helmet and good ergonomics with the pedals, shifter and wheel.


To wrap up the shifter install I welded in the frame and painted it all up when it was done.



John

John,
I'm impressed more with each post of your fabrication. Keep the post coming.

Mid 70s to low 80s........................... I'll supply the gas and rods

[sk7500]

And because it makes me feel good to just look at it.
We got the body about 80% color sanded and polished. I burned holes in both doors and the hood. I repainted the hood and polished it inside and out to about 70%. Will have to respray the doors after the touch ups. but I think I'll color sand and polish the rear hatch, wing, mirrors and front splitter first. Maybe if I wait long enough the doors will fix themselves? probably not.

IMG_2068.JPGIMG_2070.JPGIMG_2067.JPGIMG_2063.JPGIMG_2062.JPG

[LCD Gauges]

And because it makes me feel good to just look at it.
IMG_2068.JPG

Oh my gaaaaaaaawwwwwwwd!

Look at that finish.

[kabacj]

And because it makes me feel good to just look at it.

WOW

Beautiful. That is surely work to be proud of.

Nice job.

John

[VD2021]

Reset the front shocks, completed the fix for the fix and reinstalled the front shocks in the correct orientation.

[VD2021]

C5 Donor Magnasteer Variable Assist Power Rack installed and wired into the Active handling traction control system.

[kabacj]

Rebuilt my Corvette CV joints.



Modified the Mendiola transaxle mount.

The mount sits right on top of the allen stud and lock nut that are used to adjust where reverse engages relative to the 1-5 pattern. With the mount installed there is no way to get an allen key in to make an adjustment. You can see ont this picture in between the green marks the little relief that was made to allow the mount to slip over the adjuster lock nut.





Then I measured how much room I would need to fit a 90 degree allen wrench fully into the nut. The cutout trace allows for the clearance. Unfortunately I have now chopped half of the width of my transaxle mount. I doubled it up in order to recover the strength. I think this mount is overbuilt anyway so im just restoring the fortitude of the mount. If you can I think its always better to have a stronger part then you need. I welded all the way around the brace.



This is how it looks installed on the transaxle.



John

[Edgeman]

Installed the kooks, ISIS Master cell, powercell and mega fues block. Had to move the front rad hose on the drivers side to fit the front powercell.

[crash]

The mount sits right on top of the allen stud and lock nut that are used to adjust where reverse engages relative to the 1-5 pattern. With the mount installed there is no way to get an allen key in to make an adjustment.

I don't have details about the Mendeola FFR SDR box, but do you need to make these adjustments? Is this what Mendeola recommends you do, as far as messing with adjustment screws?

Just wondering, as our boxes are pretty much ready to go right from Mendeola.

[kabacj]

I don't have details about the Mendeola FFR SDR box, but do you need to make these adjustments? Is this what Mendeola recommends you do, as far as messing with adjustment screws?

Just wondering, as our boxes are pretty much ready to go right from Mendeola.

Hey Crash,

It is not recommended to mess with this adjustment out of the box.

My mod is only to allow for future adjustment without removing the FFR mounting bracket. With my luck I will be at the track 55 hours away from my house. I ll have just come in off the track and the motor and exhaust will be blazing hot and ill need to make this adjustment or miss the last run of the day. ( I know I don’t go in reverse on the track but humor me) To make the adjustment with just the square relief cut that allows the bracket to connect to the transaxle but covers the allen stud, ill break out the drill /air saw and what ever else to thrash my way to access while sweating and cussing as I burn myself on the kooks exhaust. Remember the kooks exhaust are supported off of a stud welded to this bracket. Over active imagination.. maybe, however I know you have been there when you are at the track, and you had the chance to make something easier but you said hell Ill NEVER need to mess with that. Ill just leave it alone. I know its happened to me.

Well this little mod will allow me to cut down a normal allen key (even if I am in the middle of the Mojave desert on some runway I can find a normal allen wrench) and slip it down into the stud fully engaging the facets of the hex. (which is important because when its most critical to not strip something is when you strip it) and make this adjustment in 30 seconds. Ill be back out on the track disaster averted.

I thought about other ways to access the stud (one of those hex ball end wrenches or a custom tool that I make or changing the allen stud to a male square drive stud and this was the easiest way I could think of. This solution does not mess with the transaxle. The FFR bracket is roughly as strong as it was before I relieved the access area and if I need to make an adjustment is is a drama free process.

John

[kabacj]

This weekend I finished up my cooling system including the heater bypass upgrade offered by Crash. I tested the valve that promotes recirculation of coolant even when the heat is off using a miti vac pump and it looks like it will work fine. Even though I know there are plenty of GTMs running without the kit, I think it makes lots of sense to do this upgrade.

Next I spent a ton of time getting near 20 gallons in a single tank on the passenger side. As others have realized there is no other way to put the tank of this size behind the passenger seat then to remove two of the supporting bars from the frame.

It made me sad, but I cut out the two square tubes.



after putting the motor in to confirm clearances i will weld in new cross bracing for the vertical hoop behind the passenger and driver as well as for the rear suspension pick up points that should more then account for the loss of these supports.

Next I mocked up my the fuel tank I drew in Google sketch up. It fits well with plenty of clearance all around the tank and the tank is fully inside the cage.



Finally I laid out the fill plate on the top of the tank inside the car. Ill need to modify the FFR supplied fill cap so it can take a 2.25 inch fill tube which matches the fill plate, but that should be easy enough.

I just wanted to show you guys how cool these fill plates are. This rubber flapper valve seals against the support structure behind it in the event of a roll over. A few years back it was common to use a large ball in a channel that would block the fuel flow like many shop vacs have. It turns out in a high G situation that ball would bend the cage that it rides in and render the valve useless.

[JCHRacer]

Got tired of how long the GTM was taking and bought a new toy to play with while I complete the GTM:

[The Stig]

Ok... Now that's just cheating; plain and simple...

Wish I could get one, and had somewhere to put it.

Got tired of how long the GTM was taking and bought a new toy to play with while I complete the GTM: